View Full Version : Service Advice for my Magna TR
CottonCandy
28-12-2008, 09:19 AM
Hi All
Im new to the forum, I own a 1992 Mitsubishi Magna station wagon TR V6 3.0L. [Think I got that right!]
Due to disability & not having any mechanical sense what so ever [lol] Im unable to attend to my car as much as I would like too - As interesting as I find learning about the car itself, it doesnt help fix it!
I would really appreciate some service/repair advice - I am afraid I dont now of any good mechanics in the Mt Druit or Penrith area - And therefore trust my sweet car in the hands of KMart Tyre And Auto Service [ Which have been good as far as I can tell] -
I guess to start with it would be good to know whether to keep getting my car serviced there or whether they do overprice?
Some of the current problems with my Magna
1. lifters noisey -
Been trying to research this to understand more about it. This is the Hydraulic tappets/valves - Is that correct?
Im unsure if my TR needs replacement of valves, or just something like an engine oil flush to unclogg/clean the valves Does anyone know the service cost (average) of this?
2.Best Smash Repairs/PanelBeater - Needing to get welding for a gas strut that holds up the bonnet - was told was dangerous not to have it fixed(?).
Anyone know the cost of having this done, the mechanic at the workshop where we get out major service done, said it might cost arounf $300-$400. just for the strut to be welded back to the [right underside]roof of the bonnet The bottom part of the gast strut is stil intact so its just the top part of the gas strut that needs welding back
3. Power steering pump noisey -
Does anyone know what the cost to have this fixed might be, whether its:
Replacement or
Service for changing oil/adjusting belt -?
Or possibly just the best place to take these to get done, as Im not really sure Im with the right mob
Thanks
Nat:cool:
Workshop Service Last 5 Yrs - KMART Tyre And Autio
Living in NSW (near Mt Druitt)
Owned Magna - 1yr
[TUFFTR]
28-12-2008, 09:26 AM
Welcome..
We had our car serviced there (At a K-Mart Tyre and Auto) for a few years before we found our mechanic and they have been pretty good.
To get the strut welded to the bonnet I cannot see being more then $100...Best to just ring up some panel beaters...You'll find some nice ones and you'll find some *******s so just keep looking.
Lifters...I'll leave this to mal....But after 220K on mine they developed a small "pit" on the face and I was told to replace mine. At a cost of $12 each of $144 I would try and find an easier solution.
Power steering pump...Does the belt look dry and cracked? To change the belt yourself, or if you can get a friend to do it, is very very easy. To change the pump itself for me was a pain in the ass (As I had to do it like 4 times long story) even though it was only 2 bolts, but only about $80 or so for another pump from the wreckers.
Eh, hope that helped.
Paul
CottonCandy
28-12-2008, 09:28 AM
I was also wondering if these price quotes sound right, to those in the know
For my MitsiMagnaTR
* Steering Rack [Replaced] = $700-800
* CV Boot/Shafts Replaced - Front (Left & Right) = $600
* Sway Bar Fixed $120
* Boot not opening, new gas struts needed = $220
* Bonnet - welding - the top of one gas strut back up, under the bonnet (bottom of the strut still intact) = $300-400
**Also if the radiator needs topping up of water for each 1hr trip, should I be getting it replaced?:confused:
Apologies for so many uqestions!
Thanks for your time
Nat
[TUFFTR]
28-12-2008, 09:37 AM
I was also wondering if these price quotes sound right, to those in the know
For my MitsiMagnaTR
* Steering Rack [Replaced] = $700-800
* CV Boot/Shafts Replaced - Front (Left & Right) = $600
* Sway Bar Fixed $120
* Boot not opening, new gas struts needed = $220
* Bonnet - welding - the top of one gas strut back up, under the bonnet (bottom of the strut still intact) = $300-400
**Also if the radiator needs topping up of water for each 1hr trip, should I be getting it replaced?:confused:
Apologies for so many uqestions!
Thanks for your time
Nat
Gas struts no, They can be purchased brand new for $40 each, and to install them, you flick out the end with a screwdriver, pop it out, put the new one in, and push in the clip, hardly worth the $140 extra on top of that for labor.
Wheres the water leaking from? is it defiantly the radiator? If it is...replace it...
again with the welding of the bonnet strut I really think $300-$400 is highly overpriced.
The rest I'm not sure of, I'll let another member fill you in with if that's good or not.
But yeah....Look around for qoutes from different mechanics, Or perhaps start a thread in the NSW (You say your in penrith so made snese) seeing if anyone knows of some good mecho's in that area.
CottonCandy
28-12-2008, 09:40 AM
']Welcome..
We had our car serviced there (At a K-Mart Tyre and Auto) for a few years before we found our mechanic and they have been pretty good.
To get the strut welded to the bonnet I cannot see being more then $100...Best to just ring up some panel beaters...You'll find some nice ones and you'll find some *******s so just keep looking.
Lifters...I'll leave this to mal....But after 220K on mine they developed a small "pit" on the face and I was told to replace mine. At a cost of $12 each of $144 I would try and find an easier solution.
Power steering pump...Does the belt look dry and cracked? To change the belt yourself, or if you can get a friend to do it, is very very easy. To change the pump itself for me was a pain in the ass (As I had to do it like 4 times long story) even though it was only 2 bolts, but only about $80 or so for another pump from the wreckers.
Eh, hope that helped.
Paul
Hey Paul
Thanks for your reply - Im not sure how these forums work so Im sorry if I do it a bit back to front the first few goeslol
I will be trying a few smash repirs in Mt Druitt and Penrith on monday to get some quotes for the welding of the strut, it just didnt seem right to me that it would cost $300-400 - unless it is an extremely hard and laboursome job? lol - Hopefully I find a nice panelbeater around then
I'll wait for some more advice on the Lifters -
PS Pump - Im not sure Paul, where to look for that - I could pop the bonnet and perhaps with some advice, have a look and see and get back to you on whether its cracker or dry
So a pump itself or a new belt from KMart tyre and auto might be a tad bit expensive u think? I wouldnt be able to change it myself, and I dont have any family so I dip out here in terms of help lol I guess its cheaper for most who can get stuff from wreckers and do it themself :cool:
It does help a bit, yeh!
Nat
CottonCandy
28-12-2008, 09:49 AM
']Gas struts no, They can be purchased brand new for $40 each, and to install them, you flick out the end with a screwdriver, pop it out, put the new one in, and push in the clip, hardly worth the $140 extra on top of that for labor.
Wheres the water leaking from? is it defiantly the radiator? If it is...replace it...
again with the welding of the bonnet strut I really think $300-$400 is highly overpriced.
The rest I'm not sure of, I'll let another member fill you in with if that's good or not.
But yeah....Look around for qoutes from different mechanics, Or perhaps start a thread in the NSW (You say your in penrith so made snese) seeing if anyone knows of some good mecho's in that area.
Now that sounds easy enough! But I cannot hold the boot up and do that at the same time as I have a severe back problem - and the boot is so extremely heavy since it stopped working - feels like 50kgs or something now lol
I guess ppl who are disabled and dont have any friends mechanically minded, end up paying a fortune on labour then...
I am not sure where its leaking from, what I do know is the radiator runs dry, after a trip from Mt Druitt to a Specialist in Concord - When Im back at home in Druitt, its completely run dry. So I am not sure if the radiator has a hole in it, or if its a hose or something that needs replacing.
Does a Coolant Flush, find/determine this problem?
Thanks again,
Nat
Now that sounds easy enough! But I cannot hold the boot up and do that at the same time as I have a severe back problem - and the boot is so extremely heavy since it stopped working - feels like 50kgs or something now lol
I guess ppl who are disabled and dont have any friends mechanically minded, end up paying a fortune on labour then...
I am not sure where its leaking from, what I do know is the radiator runs dry, after a trip from Mt Druitt to a Specialist in Concord - When Im back at home in Druitt, its completely run dry. So I am not sure if the radiator has a hole in it, or if its a hose or something that needs replacing.
Does a Coolant Flush, find/determine this problem?
Thanks again,
Nat
A coolant flush wouldnt help, a couple of things to check - Your radiator cap, it should have a spring in it. If it has broken (like mine did on the weekend) the radator will boil over and evaporate all the coolant, smells like dead fish when this happens, just check the cap has a spring.
Otherwise, top it right up, and look under the car and in the engine bay, see if you can determine if it is coming from the top or bottom radator pipe, the radiator, or the overflow. If it is coming from the overflow, it is probably the radiator cap.
Replacements are about $12, you'll need a 0.9 cap if so.
CottonCandy
28-12-2008, 10:25 AM
A coolant flush wouldnt help, a couple of things to check - Your radiator cap, it should have a spring in it. If it has broken (like mine did on the weekend) the radator will boil over and evaporate all the coolant, smells like dead fish when this happens, just check the cap has a spring.
Otherwise, top it right up, and look under the car and in the engine bay, see if you can determine if it is coming from the top or bottom radator pipe, the radiator, or the overflow. If it is coming from the overflow, it is probably the radiator cap.
Replacements are about $12, you'll need a 0.9 cap if so.
I often check the radiator when its cool ofcourse lol to see if it needs water.[which it always does seem to]
Q: The spring is visible inside the radiator cap?
I can turn it to open, close without any problems. I will check for cracks in the cap too just incase and get back to you on that one
I will also fill it up, and lay down to check if it leaks - I cant go under the car as i dont have a jack nor have I the strength to use one with my back issues.
Thanks so much, I hope its just the cap that needs replacing, worth a check!
Nat
I often check the radiator when its cool ofcourse lol to see if it needs water.[which it always does seem to]
Q: The spring is visible inside the radiator cap?
I can turn it to open, close without any problems. I will check for cracks in the cap too just incase and get back to you on that one
I will also fill it up, and lay down to check if it leaks - I cant go under the car as i dont have a jack nor have I the strength to use one with my back issues.
Thanks so much, I hope its just the cap that needs replacing, worth a check!
Nat
The cap may actually appear normal from the outside like mine did, but on the inside you need to make sure there is a spring, if not the radiator is not able to use the overflow pipe and boils over. Also, it would mean there is a spring somewhere inside your radiator (like mine :P)
wombat
28-12-2008, 10:55 AM
My strut on my tailgate gave way and i had to have the strut welded back on also, took it to a fabrication metal shop and they charged me $20 to fix her up, so that price is extremely high:P
[TUFFTR]
28-12-2008, 11:30 AM
Just fill it with water (The radiator) And have a torch with you, start the car and let it run...look around to see if its leaking...it should be pretty obvious if it goes through that much water.
No white smoke out the exhaust or anything?
Power steering pump is located (where the belts are) on the top of the engine. Sort of between the V. Just check that belt to see how loose and or tight it is. Could be on its way out.
Madmagna
28-12-2008, 12:35 PM
Seems my services are needed again?
1/ Lash adjusters - replace them all, dont try to clean and bleed them, is a waste of time, money and energy. New ones will cost about $15 each then again seems you intend keeping the car so is worth it. When you get the new ones make sure the mechanic is not just a greese monkey like kmart auto ones and they do actually clean out the rails and the rockers especially the little bleed holes in the tops of the rockers
2/ Power steering pump, is located on the pass side, on top of the motor, you will see the belt go over the pulley, is to forward of the distrubutor. Check that your fluid is up to the correct level as the pump can cavitate and will sound terrible.
3/ why do you need the rack doing, is the rack leaking? Generally a replacement rack will be around $400 ish plus about 2 hours fitting
4/ Drive shafts, go to a drive shaft place, they will generally charge you about $130 for each side with a reco inner and new outer plus fitting of about 30 a side, they are quite cheap these days. Dont bother with boots as you will be putting boots in old, dirty joints = fail
5/ bonnet strutt, is the strutt itself come off in the bonnet, there is a 12mm head nipple which screws into the bonnet or is the strutt itself broken? If only the strutt, go to super crap auto and get a new one, is a 10 minute job to bolt on. If the bonnet has cracked around the nut that is welded into the bonnet, I would say anything over $50 bucks to repair is a rip off. Only thing is you may get some heat soak onto the paint on the bonnet when it is welded.
6/ cooling system, you need to find out where it is leaking from first. Could be water pump, heater core, hose, radiator, the heads do crack into the exhaust ports in these and you will get a loss of coolant but no oil in water etc, welsch plug etc. Once you find the leak then you can set about fitting it. Do not bother with the cheap radiator caps as they are crap, get either a mits one, Toyota sell the ND caps which are the same a lot cheaper and some auto shops sell the good ones. The COC ones have a thick rubber seal and are rubbish.
7/ Tail gate struts, these are about $45 each side from supercrap auto, really is an easy job to replace, have someone help hold the tail gate up, swap the little buggers over
Pity you are not in Vic as with the prices quoted you could almost come down here, do the work and go back with change lol.
Another question, have you had the timing belt done, I think I saw you have done 220k's. needed to be done at 200k
Advice, get Kmart auto out of your life once and for all, surely a member in these forums must live near mount druitt and can recommend a good not too expensive mechaning???
Trotty
28-12-2008, 03:39 PM
Hi Cotton Candy....
welcome to the club... i posted in your other thread and then saw this one.... well i am in cranebrook and i will be glad to have alook at the strut to see if i can weld it back on.... if its just the mount this wont be a problem, if the strut itself is broken then a new/2nd hand one will be needed. as the strut itself cant be welded.
CottonCandy
29-12-2008, 04:25 PM
']Just fill it with water (The radiator) And have a torch with you, start the car and let it run...look around to see if its leaking...it should be pretty obvious if it goes through that much water.
No white smoke out the exhaust or anything?
Power steering pump is located (where the belts are) on the top of the engine. Sort of between the V. Just check that belt to see how loose and or tight it is. Could be on its way out.
I did fillit with water and tried to see where it might be dripping or gushing from but after about 30mins not seeing anything drip i figured i better leave it to someone who doesnt have back problems to check out lol -- nothing obvious though so hmm
No smoke, no, but it sure does stink -
I tried looking for the pump. I can only bend over so far before putting myelf in pain, and i just couldnt locate it. I saw the sort of pully belts, 1,2 and 3 i think there was, well it seemed like a system of 2-3 belts - They dont seem cracked but boy are they making some noise! It terms of the belts I saw, they didnt seem loose to me, but then i am not sure how tight they should be either, so i felt I couldnt answer your questions you have taken the time to ask and im sorry for that.
I do appreciate the advice and did try my best.:doubt:
CottonCandy
29-12-2008, 04:36 PM
Hi Cotton Candy....
welcome to the club... i posted in your other thread and then saw this one.... well i am in cranebrook and i will be glad to have alook at the strut to see if i can weld it back on.... if its just the mount this wont be a problem, if the strut itself is broken then a new/2nd hand one will be needed. as the strut itself cant be welded.
Hi again daniel
Thanks for both your replies. Id appreciate you taking a look at my mitsi, if you dont mind checkin a ladies car out that is! :) Maybe you could help with a much simplier problem, that is if the welding and all is more complex then it seems for the bonnet.
I have a boot that wont open becuase i need to replace two gas struts[ i think u guys call that a tail gate?] - maybe if i got the struts from somehwere you could replace them for me? A cple of nice fellas on here did make it sound quite easy but when u cant lift the Extra heavy boot up[or hold it up] its a bit hard to fix it.
if not, no problem I will ask one of the blokes at Kingswood to give me a quote to put 2 new gas struts in as well as all the other stuff that needs fixing
Well according to kmart tyre and auto i need a new steering rack, sway bar, power steering pump, lifters, degrease and a couple of other things........
I do know I have a a cooling system problem though - I shouldnt have to keep filling my radiator up with water everyday and my cv shafts are realllly bad .:badgrin:
CottonCandy
29-12-2008, 05:18 PM
Seems my services are needed again?
1/ Lash adjusters - replace them all, dont try to clean and bleed them, is a waste of time, money and energy. New ones will cost about $15 each then again seems you intend keeping the car so is worth it. When you get the new ones make sure the mechanic is not just a greese monkey like kmart auto ones and they do actually clean out the rails and the rockers especially the little bleed holes in the tops of the rockers
2/ Power steering pump, is located on the pass side, on top of the motor, you will see the belt go over the pulley, is to forward of the distrubutor. Check that your fluid is up to the correct level as the pump can cavitate and will sound terrible.
3/ why do you need the rack doing, is the rack leaking? Generally a replacement rack will be around $400 ish plus about 2 hours fitting
4/ Drive shafts, go to a drive shaft place, they will generally charge you about $130 for each side with a reco inner and new outer plus fitting of about 30 a side, they are quite cheap these days. Dont bother with boots as you will be putting boots in old, dirty joints = fail
5/ bonnet strutt, is the strutt itself come off in the bonnet, there is a 12mm head nipple which screws into the bonnet or is the strutt itself broken? If only the strutt, go to super crap auto and get a new one, is a 10 minute job to bolt on. If the bonnet has cracked around the nut that is welded into the bonnet, I would say anything over $50 bucks to repair is a rip off. Only thing is you may get some heat soak onto the paint on the bonnet when it is welded.
6/ cooling system, you need to find out where it is leaking from first. Could be water pump, heater core, hose, radiator, the heads do crack into the exhaust ports in these and you will get a loss of coolant but no oil in water etc, welsch plug etc. Once you find the leak then you can set about fitting it. Do not bother with the cheap radiator caps as they are crap, get either a mits one, Toyota sell the ND caps which are the same a lot cheaper and some auto shops sell the good ones. The COC ones have a thick rubber seal and are rubbish.
7/ Tail gate struts, these are about $45 each side from supercrap auto, really is an easy job to replace, have someone help hold the tail gate up, swap the little buggers over
Pity you are not in Vic as with the prices quoted you could almost come down here, do the work and go back with change lol.
Another question, have you had the timing belt done, I think I saw you have done 220k's. needed to be done at 200k
Advice, get Kmart auto out of your life once and for all, surely a member in these forums must live near mount druitt and can recommend a good not too expensive mechaning???
Hello and ty for your reply - I'll do my best to answer[ some of the things you were discussing I didnt quite understand though - the mechanics of it all]
1. Lash Adjusters? I havnt heard of that term before, Im guessing you mean about the Lifters? I'm currently trying to find a good mechanic so this can be done or even a good mechanic to actually go over my car and say ' ok yes, this needs fixing for sure, or this doesnt etc' - one that wont rip me off, and that is reliable --One that would fix the lifters from being noisey and'they do actually clean out the rails and the rockers especially the little bleed holes in the tops of the rockers' - as you said[ as i am not sure how i would check to make sure this is actually done to know]
Trotty suggested a mechanic not to far from here I might try for a service and some quotes on the things for my mitsi that need replacing/fixing or repairing
2. P/S Pump [ The mechanics at kmart tyre and auto said it was 'noisey' and needed to be fixed - I can tell you that I did check the P/Steering Fluids, took off the cap when the car was cool and checked the stick that indicates the fluid level and it was up to 'Max' - so thats good then, yes? Does this mean I need a new pump then?
3. The steering rack - the mechanic said their was 'Alot of play' in the rack and that ' I needed a new one' - no further explanation from him - and that it could cost $7-800 at kmart tyre and auto - And to think I had no other options and felt i could trust them - was kind fo a mistake, but if you dont really know any mechanics, what else can you do but trust this place. Im glad I come on here for some advice, as I really love my mitsi :)
4. I am currently getting or trying to get the cheapest quote for the Shafts to be done, so far its a bit mouth dropping and same as kmart tyre and auto quote- I was told my CV Boot is 'completely split' - so I dont know what the best course of action is for when they replace the shafts etc
5. I think if i took a picture for you guys to see, it might of been easier, then my terrible explanations lol. The strut is intact, so much so it came away with the nut[bolt?] or what u call the head nipple perhaps, and also some chunks of metal surrounding it[which ofcourse come from the bonnet] --I wish it was only $50, was saying in another post to Trotty, its so far a cheapest quote of $180 for labour and prolly another $45 for a strut, if this panlebeater cant remove the nut[head nipple] & bonnet metal from the strut itself -he said he would try though - The bonnet, where the nut/strut use to be, is a nice 10c piece - corroded - shape, looking nice and rusty where the bolt once was lol doesnt help that some metal come away with the bolt :( [making the mark about a 10c peice shape]
6, Oh yes I forgot to answer the other blokes post about whether the radiator cap had a spring in it or not. Yes it does, a spring and some rubber etc too. theres no cracks in the cap, which is good - But it is a CDC cap, whatever that is. It does have a thick rubber seal as far as i can see, and right inside is the spring --
Im not sure where the leaking is coming from, I do wish I knew though.
7. im hoping someone in the area might be able to do it for me, perhaps Trotty Im not sure - maybe one of the mechanics he suggested wont charge me, if i just supply the struts for them [could buy them rom aupercheap auto if im told which ones to get at least]- I sure dont want to pay $220 to get it done - And as I dont have any1 to help hold the bootup etc Im kind stuck there.
Your right with the amounts Ive been asked, i think my pension will diminish for the year and ill be paying 3 times the amount of what the car is worth - Yes i could drive to there to VIC and back with change for sure
No I havnt had the timing belt done, oh gosh, another thing needs doing? I guess thats gonna be another thousand or so to fix? Prolly where all that noise is coming from on the belts too........... My cars clocked up to around 255K i think, round there anyways so id say its overdue.
I found 3 places I was going to get quotes from, perhaps you guys know whether they are good or not- they deal especially with Cooling System Service [Radiator prob Im having] , Steering[Rack/pump noise] & CV Shaft - the few places were:
NRMA - no idea on what they charge tho
Pedders Suspension - no quote yet on the shafts, steering issues
Lube Mobile - $670 for them to do my shafts
- no quote yet on the cooling system service, or steering service
Maybe Trottys suggestion at Kingswood is good, all those things plus even the boot struts that I need replacing - im not sure yet, Id have to check it out to know for sure.
I dont want to part with my mitsi, and keep going through the same car issues with another car and besides, i really like my misti
The sooner i find a good mechanic, the better - side's it would be good to have a good mechanic, for my mitsi and one who would do the pink slips and major services to keep the lovely TR running well
Thanks again
Nat
Trotty
29-12-2008, 05:32 PM
ill send you a PM with my number.
ill gladly have a look and swap the struts over, and anything else i can fix without cost/....:D
CottonCandy
31-12-2008, 03:56 PM
I just wanna thank all the fellas on here for the advice and help. I know if needed in future, I'd get lots of great advice here and if not, I'll just keep going around Trottys house and bangin' on his door :bowrofl: 'help, car problem!' lol
So thanks, again. Trotty was kind enough to fix my bonnet and boot issues - free of charge, and put me in the right direction for a good mechanic too, its a great way to start the new year for us, we are so strapped for cash as it is, so thanks heaps Trotty -.-
Also, as an added bonus he let me take his awesome car for a spin - what a ripper that was. man does his car run smooth! :cool: Sure would like his tyres! lol
Nat
Trotty
01-01-2009, 12:47 PM
That was no problem Nat.....
If and when possible,could you possibly do a donation to AMC, if it wasnt for this club you wouldnt have found me, so give them some support and help keep this place goin:D
that would be greatly apprciated thanx!
Dan
CottonCandy
12-01-2009, 01:04 PM
That was no problem Nat.....
If and when possible,could you possibly do a donation to AMC, if it wasnt for this club you wouldnt have found me, so give them some support and help keep this place goin:D
that would be greatly apprciated thanx!
Dan
Hey Dan
I'll be sure to do that when I have anything spare - At the moment Im working on saving up all i have from my pension just get some of these major things fixed - shafts are getting done on wednesday and the money i saved from u fixing/welding my car, is gonna be thrown str8 into the new shafts $600 or so.
I greatly appreciate finding this forum to get all the help I may need with my misti, so when i do have some spare change, how does one go about donating here?
Id like to see this forum continuing on just as much as anyone else, but Im not made of dollars lol :)
dont make me feel bad now :bowrofl:
Madmagna
12-01-2009, 02:27 PM
Mate, if you are paying $600 or so for shafts you are being hijacked
Surely there is someone from NSW in the club who will do this for a carton and the shafts????
cmon guys, give this guy a hand here, he is being taken for a ride and can ill afford to pay this sort of money for something worth around $300 to get done.
Drivers side should not take more than 30 mins, pass side if you take out the intermediate shaft 45 mins.
CottonCandy
15-01-2009, 11:40 AM
Mate, if you are paying $600 or so for shafts you are being hijacked
Surely there is someone from NSW in the club who will do this for a carton and the shafts????
cmon guys, give this guy a hand here, he is being taken for a ride and can ill afford to pay this sort of money for something worth around $300 to get done.
Drivers side should not take more than 30 mins, pass side if you take out the intermediate shaft 45 mins.
Hi again - thanks for your reply
Ive found a terrific mechanic and he is located at Kingswood NSW [one Trotty ref me too] - he only charged me $330 for the shafts[reconditioned] + new front and rear brake pads were $140 [includ labour] - They are supersweet with my mitsubishi and all I can say is thank god kmart tyre and auto is in the past, if I had of kept going there I would have been $3000 min out of pocket --- And on a pension with ongoing medical issues for myself this would have just bleed me dry......
Madmagna, your a genuis and thanks so much for all your help so far! How can I donate here, to keep this forum going mate? Dont know what I would have done if I hadnt found this forum.......
Ive got everything fixed on my car, except the radiator isssue which will be getting looked into! Since the mechanics are so great, Ive also learnt how to do a few things myself! :cool:
Love my mitsi!
Trotty
15-01-2009, 11:46 AM
Great to hear that he helped and sorted you out.... Been my mechanic for about 5 years now.
As far as donating one of the reps should be able to point you in the right direction...
Madmagna
15-01-2009, 12:29 PM
Mate, if you want to donate that is great, the reception area has the right detail on how to set this up.
Trotty, thanks for directing CottonCandy to your mechanic, has saved him many $$$$
wombat
15-01-2009, 12:33 PM
While this thread is open, im finally getting my car serviced this week, got quoted $140 for a service including tranny flush. Good price?
Also im getting all 4 discs and pads replaced, how much of a ball park figure am i looking at for this?
Would it be cheaper to have the discs machined? I know the front ones are badly warped, not sure about the rears.
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