Metaxus
29-12-2008, 10:51 AM
Hi Everyone,
I'm not sure how common it is, but I have been having some ongoing intermittent problems with the high contrast gauges in my KJ Series 1 Verada.
My shift position indicators were flickering on and off, occasionally I would start the car and the fuel gauge would show zero, or the temperature gauge would stick at 1/4 or zero, and when i first picked up the car, the dash wasn't dimming when the headlights were switched on.
A few days ago, I removed the cluster, and opened the back panel to discover that virtually all of the non surface-mount solder joints were starting to 'halo' and some were already well and truly dry.
I resoldered the whole PCB, and cleaned the 2 flex panel connectors with an eraser, tightened the screws connecting the fuel and temp gauges to the flex panel, and refitted the cluster.
I haven't had any problems since, so I'm fairly sure this has cured it.
If you don't have soldering skills to fix this yourself, any electronics workshop should be capable of doing it in under an hour (there's nothing particularly complex to do, and everything is nice and accessible).
While you've got the cluster out, it's worth adding in the extra globe to the headlights on position too...
I'm not sure how common it is, but I have been having some ongoing intermittent problems with the high contrast gauges in my KJ Series 1 Verada.
My shift position indicators were flickering on and off, occasionally I would start the car and the fuel gauge would show zero, or the temperature gauge would stick at 1/4 or zero, and when i first picked up the car, the dash wasn't dimming when the headlights were switched on.
A few days ago, I removed the cluster, and opened the back panel to discover that virtually all of the non surface-mount solder joints were starting to 'halo' and some were already well and truly dry.
I resoldered the whole PCB, and cleaned the 2 flex panel connectors with an eraser, tightened the screws connecting the fuel and temp gauges to the flex panel, and refitted the cluster.
I haven't had any problems since, so I'm fairly sure this has cured it.
If you don't have soldering skills to fix this yourself, any electronics workshop should be capable of doing it in under an hour (there's nothing particularly complex to do, and everything is nice and accessible).
While you've got the cluster out, it's worth adding in the extra globe to the headlights on position too...