Hey guys,

Seeing as I've been looking at amps for my sub, I thought I should probably look at power cables too.
Now the amp I'm looking at is a 425ish W monoblock. I went into autobarn to have a look at their really expensive power cables :nuts: and by reading them, it looks like I'm going to need 2ga, they all said what their max rms are, and 2ga was the only one high enough, apart from 0ga.

I was just wondering if that sounded right, and if ya's need to know, the ones I saw were Aerpro
http://www.aerpro.com.au/list.php?pcode=MX002&cat_name=amp%20wiring%20kits&cat_no=05&cat_sno=

Also, is everything I need to run power/earth in that kit? Or do I need to buy other stuff aswell.


EDIT: Does 130 bucks sound right for something like that? =\
Also, how does this so called "Distribution block" work? No idea what it is, or what it does, I just thought you ran 2ga from amp + to battery, and 2ga from amp - to earth..
Help me out guys, I'm so clueless =p.

Cheers

Hey guys,

Seeing as I've been looking at amps for my sub, I thought I should probably look at power cables too.
Now the amp I'm looking at is a 425ish W monoblock. I went into autobarn to have a look at their really expensive power cables :nuts: and by reading them, it looks like I'm going to need 2ga, they all said what their max rms are, and 2ga was the only one high enough, apart from 0ga.

I was just wondering if that sounded right, and if ya's need to know, the ones I saw were Aerpro
http://www.aerpro.com.au/list.php?pcode=MX002&cat_name=amp%20wiring%20kits&cat_no=05&cat_sno=

Also, is everything I need to run power/earth in that kit? Or do I need to buy other stuff aswell.


EDIT: Does 130 bucks sound right for something like that? =\
Also, how does this so called "Distribution block" work? No idea what it is, or what it does, I just thought you ran 2ga from amp + to battery, and 2ga from amp - to earth..
Help me out guys, I'm so clueless =p.

Cheers

With a 400W mono you can run 8ga if you want

$130 for that is not bad
BUT, log onto MEA (mobile electronics Australia) and you will probably find the same thing, used, for about $50.
2nd hand audio gear is awesome...
A distribution block SPLITS the wire.
So say you have 2 amps
you run lets say 0ga to the boot INTO the distro block, and then coming out of it, is say, 2 x 4ga cables, one to feed each amp.

']With a 400W mono you can run 8ga if you want

$130 for that is not bad
BUT, log onto MEA (mobile electronics Australia) and you will probably find the same thing, used, for about $50.
2nd hand audio gear is awesome...
A distribution block SPLITS the wire.
So say you have 2 amps
you run lets say 0ga to the boot INTO the distro block, and then coming out of it, is say, 2 x 4ga cables, one to feed each amp.
Ah ok, so basically the numbers on the packs are just BS?
So that means I won't need the distribution block unless I'm gonna add another amp?
I'd probably rather spend a bit more than 8ga, probably go for 4ga if it's good enough.

Oh also, the guy at autobarn told me "You run this into your capacitor, and then it goes through to the amp/distribution block.."
Wtf do capacitors have to do with my amp, and do I need one?

Ah ok, so basically the numbers on the packs are just BS?
So that means I won't need the distribution block unless I'm gonna add another amp?
I'd probably rather spend a bit more than 8ga, probably go for 4ga if it's good enough.

Oh also, the guy at autobarn told me "You run this into your capacitor, and then it goes through to the amp/distribution block.."
Wtf do capacitors have to do with my amp, and do I need one?

Dont listen to any BS they spin, Go back in there and him to get ****ed.
Capacitor is an electrical storage device, like a battery....what happens is, if you run one....It charges up, then when you have a big bass beat, this is supposed to supply more power to the amp to keep it from draining the battery. They are crap. Just spend the money on a good battery and you'll never "need" one

Yeah, you only need a distro block if you want to run more then 1 amp.
But, like i say, when doing an install, if you HU has 3 RCA pre-outs, run 3 sets of RCA's and just dont use the ones that you need.
That way, when you eventually get another amp, you just need to split the power wiring, add an earth, and plug your speakers/sub in, no need to piss fart around with taking out the HU AGAIN.

4ga is enough to run 2 amps.
I'm running 0ga which will be split to 3 x 4ga to 3 amps totalling 270A max draw.

Ah ok, so basically the numbers on the packs are just BS?
So that means I won't need the distribution block unless I'm gonna add another amp?
I'd probably rather spend a bit more than 8ga, probably go for 4ga if it's good enough.

Oh also, the guy at autobarn told me "You run this into your capacitor, and then it goes through to the amp/distribution block.."
Wtf do capacitors have to do with my amp, and do I need one?

Nah you dont need a capacitor.

Ah ok, so basically the numbers on the packs are just BS?
So that means I won't need the distribution block unless I'm gonna add another amp?
I'd probably rather spend a bit more than 8ga, probably go for 4ga if it's good enough.

Oh also, the guy at autobarn told me "You run this into your capacitor, and then it goes through to the amp/distribution block.."
Wtf do capacitors have to do with my amp, and do I need one?
They store power and allow you to run it longer with the car off, and filter out any engine noise/voltage spikes. They are optional unless you are using a VERY powerful setup.

They store power and allow you to run it longer with the car off, and filter out any engine noise/voltage spikes. They are optional unless you are using a VERY powerful setup.

Not sure about the engine noise claim there..
You show me a POWERFUL setup, like 4 x 18" subs and 2 5000W amps where they use a cap, they use the power from batteries :P

']Not sure about the engine noise claim there..

Yeah i think you have to buy a noise filter separately...

Buy a 4AWG wiring kit (with RCA's)*
Buy 3odd metres of 8AWG red wire, 1metre of 8AWG brown wire.
Soldering Iron
Solder
8AWG ring end terminals, gold plated.
Aerpro + & - battery clamps

Run a 4AWG from the battery - fuse - boot.

Use a FUSED distribution block to split this. Whatever fuse size is on your amp, use the same sized fuse in your fused distribution block**.

Chances are your amp uses 8AWG connections, double check though.

Then from the distribution block, run the 8AWG to your amp. Earth your amp with the brown 8AWG wire (50cm max length).

Later on if you add another amp, all you need to do is pop another fuse in, and run new wire from the distribution block in your boot, rather than a new cable from battery to boot.

*4AWG so you can easily add another amp later, and the RCA's that come with the kits arnt that bad, not for entry level.

**Yes you can get away with a fuse probably twice the size of what the amp is protected by, fuses take a long time (5-10minutes @ 120% of fuse amp capacity) to blow, its better to have a fuse the same size as the amp, rather than on the very limit of what the power wire can handle.

They store power and allow you to run it longer with the car off, and filter out any engine noise/voltage spikes. They are optional unless you are using a VERY powerful setup.

No, no they dont allow you to run longer with the car off.

A Cap is designed to charge and discharge quickly, a sub will discharge it within a few beats. Once its discharged and has no power supply from the alternator (with your car off) you will be charging it with the battery, which is only 12.8XX volts.

By the time ESR comes into play, that 12.8XX volts becomes somewhere around 12.2Volts, you've actually dropped volts. After all the connections, your amp will be lucky to see 12volts. Depending on your battery and its condition, you will dip below 12volts in not a great deal of time, at which point your amp starts clipping and destroying your sound system.

Yes they can filter out engine noise, so can running your RCA's away from your power cable. Voltage spikes, yes, a properly maintained system does not have voltage spikes of more than 1-1.2volts between 12.8-14volts, as this is regulated by your alternators regulator in eithercase.

Buy a 4AWG wiring kit (with RCA's)*
Buy 3odd metres of 8AWG red wire, 1metre of 8AWG brown wire.
Soldering Iron
Solder
8AWG ring end terminals, gold plated.
Aerpro + & - battery clamps

Run a 4AWG from the battery - fuse - boot.

Use a FUSED distribution block to split this. Whatever fuse size is on your amp, use the same sized fuse in your fused distribution block**.

Chances are your amp uses 8AWG connections, double check though.

Then from the distribution block, run the 8AWG to your amp. Earth your amp with the brown 8AWG wire (50cm max length).

Later on if you add another amp, all you need to do is pop another fuse in, and run new wire from the distribution block in your boot, rather than a new cable from battery to boot.

*4AWG so you can easily add another amp later, and the RCA's that come with the kits arnt that bad, not for entry level.

**Yes you can get away with a fuse probably twice the size of what the amp is protected by, fuses take a long time (5-10minutes @ 120% of fuse amp capacity) to blow, its better to have a fuse the same size as the amp, rather than on the very limit of what the power wire can handle.

This here looks closest to that, except I'm not sure if the distro block is fused =\
http://www.aerpro.com.au/list.php?pcode=MX0042&cat_name=amp%20wiring%20kits&cat_no=05&cat_sno=
Except it doesn't have RCAs, though I've already got some run (no idea what they are, they came with the car :P) probably get new ones later though, when everything's closer to being done.

I wouldnt say so, just if you do, for a long time, make sure your battery is good.

That distribution block isnt fused.

Just buy another block - something like this, everyone stocks these for around $25

http://www.aerpro.com.au/list.php?pcode=PS2&cat_name=car%20audio%20accessories&cat_no=07&cat_sno=

Also battery terminals

http://www.aerpro.com.au/list.php?pcode=AP502&cat_name=car%20audio%20accessories&cat_no=07&cat_sno=

http://www.aerpro.com.au/list.php?pcode=APD507P&cat_name=car%20audio%20accessories&cat_no=07&cat_sno=

Or try and find another positive terminal without 0AWG as you wont use it. Just needs to have 1 x 4AWG and 2 x 8AWG

']I wouldnt say so, just if you do, for a long time, make sure your battery is good.
Yeah, deleted that post :p.
I realized he was mainly talking about with a cap, and not running **** for long is mostly common sense anyway.

That distribution block isnt fused.

Just buy another block - something like this, everyone stocks these for around $25

http://www.aerpro.com.au/list.php?pcode=PS2&cat_name=car%20audio%20accessories&cat_no=07&cat_sno=

Also battery terminals

http://www.aerpro.com.au/list.php?pcode=AP502&cat_name=car%20audio%20accessories&cat_no=07&cat_sno=

http://www.aerpro.com.au/list.php?pcode=APD507P&cat_name=car%20audio%20accessories&cat_no=07&cat_sno=

Or try and find another positive terminal without 0AWG as you wont use it. Just needs to have 1 x 4AWG and 2 x 8AWG
Ah ok, sounds sweet, much easier to understand now.
But.. I don't have to run my negative to the battery do I?

You should (or atleast I do, everyone has different opinions so whatever) upgrade your body earth to 4AWG, hence the new negative battery terminal.

Keep the factory earth straps (from memory 2 x 10AWG?) and just run another 4AWG to a similar location.

You should (or atleast I do, everyone has different opinions so whatever) upgrade your body earth to 4AWG, hence the new negative battery terminal.

Keep the factory earth straps (from memory 2 x 10AWG?) and just run another 4AWG to a similar location.

Ohhh now I've got ya, I thought the terminal was for running it all back there.
Well I might run it back, see what happens when I get it all together.
Ty for your help everyone :D
Looks like 4ga it is!

FYI, I got 2 x gold plated terminals with 2 x 0ga outputs AND 2 8ga outputs PER terminal, both delivered to my door for about $60 US
Keep that in mind, Just in case you wanna upgrade

']Not sure about the engine noise claim there..
You show me a POWERFUL setup, like 4 x 18" subs and 2 5000W amps where they use a cap, they use the power from batteries :P

Meh, mine may have a built-in noise filter, has it on the box :P

You tend to use Capacitors or high powered systems to prevent voltage drop during big hits. Kind of like a buffer of sorts

Tuffie is on the money when he says run extra RCA's from now.
Also, the better gauge you can afford to run - run it!
When i installed my subs, i was like

"nah, I prob wont end up running another amp"

YEAH RIGHT!? lol

Yesterday, I spent a good afternoon and evening pulling out all my old 8 gauge, re-running 4 gauge, and extra sets of RCA's for an amp for my speakers!

Gotta say though, I do enjoy installing new equipment in the Rada, but very very time consuming.

So if ur not a patient person, or someone who hates doing things twice:


'Just do it right once'
~The main principal of Automobile Modification~

:thumbsup:

im running 8g and dont seem to find any problems but im no audio guru
currently running a 600w amp off it and adding another 600 as soon as i buy a new sub

gah iv gotta pull my back seat out again, damn that things a bitch :(
i stupidly ran 2 power cables and ones not long enough to reach, nd didnt fully understand what to do with the dist block so now gotta rip the short cable back out and dist it in the boot
i'll get there eventually

im running 8g and dont seem to find any problems but im no audio guru
currently running a 600w amp off it and adding another 600 as soon as i buy a new sub

gah iv gotta pull my back seat out again, damn that things a bitch :(
i stupidly ran 2 power cables and ones not long enough to reach, nd didnt fully understand what to do with the dist block so now gotta rip the short cable back out and dist it in the boot
i'll get there eventually
8ga will be fine for one, but when you upgrade to 2 amps, run 4ga minimum and split it to 2 x 8ga min

']8ga will be fine for one, but when you upgrade to 2 amps, run 4ga minimum and split it to 2 x 8ga min
damnit looks like another trip to the audio shop, atleast i have heapsss of 8ga

whats the damage on one of those fused boxes i need one for the carpc/amp alot neater than the way it is atm