Hey guys,
I have been reading on these forums that i should make some MDF baffles to replace the stock plastic ones if i want good sound from my new front speakers. I have searched and searched and i cant find how to make them. I have seen pictures but they just leave me guessing how to go about it.
In all of the pictures of mdf baffles i have noticed that they have the flat bit...and then a ring on top (Where the speaker is mounted), yet the stock plastic one has the ring in the opposite direction- Out the back. Im guessing this is just to protect the speaker from Rain.

So how should i go about making a baffle?
Do i just trace around the plastic one onto some mdf, cut it out and then stick a 6.5" ring on top?

Also, once i have made a custom MDF baffle, how am i going to protect the rear of the speaker from getting wet?

So Is this the right thing to do? Keeping in mind that I have ordered some dynamat extreme (bulk box or something)...

OK.

Get a sheet of 12mm MDF.

Take out you plastic 'baffle'.

Trace the outside of this. Cut the MDF x 2.

Now, with a pen/pacer/texta put a dot where each of the original screws that hold the factory speaker are. Drill these out with a 2.5mm drill.

Next, line up the MDF baffle where the stock one went.

Look on the side closest to the door hinge. You will notice on each door, about 2/3rds of the way up, a square bit protruding. You will need to chisel this out on the MDF baffle. Around 4.5cm wide, half the depth of the MDF, and around 5cm long.

Now, on the opposite side of the baffle (from memory) you have two bolts in the door, that would stop this sitting flush. You will need to countersink this on the baffle.

Once this is done, secure the MDF baffle to the door. Now, I cant remeber if I used factory screws, come to think of it, I dont think I did. I used wood screws, some 45mm deep.

Put your door trim back on (minus speaker grill).

Trace the opening of the speaker grill onto the MDF baffle.

Find the centre of this.

Measure your speaker cutout diameter, then trace this on the baffle.

You can now either use a router to cut this hole out, or:

Use a 10mm drill, and drill 4 points as close as possible on the inside of the outline. Get a jigsaw, and cut very carefully (make sure you wear ear protection, goggles, and breathing mask).

Now secure your speaker, and go nuts.

To protect against water - coat with acrylic/poly something paint (outdoor paint is just fine). You will need maybe 250ml.

I also cover the MDF baffle's with Dynamat extreme on the part that sits against the door trim.

P.S My door trim wont clip back in perfectly on the bottom, never noticed this until now. Its either that i've taken the door off too many times, or a 12mm baffle is a bit thick.

If I feel up to it, I'll pull my trim off tomorrow if I get a chance, and the baffle, take some pics to help explain.

Hey guys,
I have been reading on these forums that i should make some MDF baffles to replace the stock plastic ones if i want good sound from my new front speakers. I have searched and searched and i cant find how to make them. I have seen pictures but they just leave me guessing how to go about it.
In all of the pictures of mdf baffles i have noticed that they have the flat bit...and then a ring on top (Where the speaker is mounted), yet the stock plastic one has the ring in the opposite direction- Out the back. Im guessing this is just to protect the speaker from Rain.

So how should i go about making a baffle?
Do i just trace around the plastic one onto some mdf, cut it out and then stick a 6.5" ring on top?

Also, once i have made a custom MDF baffle, how am i going to protect the rear of the speaker from getting wet?

So Is this the right thing to do? Keeping in mind that I have ordered some dynamat extreme (bulk box or something)...
thats pretty much how i did mine with the baffles, however its best to sound deaden your door skins first while the splits arent there as the hole makes it easier to apply large amounts of deadener in one. Just make sure you clean the skin thouroughly before you deaden.

very easy to make mate
but the plastic ones are pretty decent for general listening
depending on your speaker depth would tell you roughly how think the board will need to be
should be able to get away with some 12mm MDF, maybe 16mm
take the plactic one out and use that as the template to make a new one
mark the holes so you can used the old screws to hold it in, if not just redrill them into the door
also cut the hole for the speaker first ;)

Great write up.....Thanks..

Thanks guys! Awesome writeup Ers! (Must give you credit for very descriptive writeup) ;) I will be sure to make some baffles tommorrow!!! :D

Somebody should sticky a DIY link of 'How to make MDF speaker baffles'.
Would be very handy to many members.

As for sound deadening.

Bulk pack is nice, gone through 2.5 myself lol

Do 1 layer on the outer skin, i layer on the inner skin. Hope there aint rattles after this.....

Also, I personally, get rid of the stupid plastic dust cover from factory. Made this mistake of bolting the baffle over the top of this. All it done was pool water around the bottom of the baffle. 8 months later the baffle was warped, mouldy and the screws holding the speaker in rusted out, and if it wasnt for the fact the bottom screws let go of MDF due to it expanding, I would have had warped speakers.

As for sound deadening.

Bulk pack is nice, gone through 2.5 myself lol

Do 1 layer on the outer skin, i layer on the inner skin. Hope there aint rattles after this.....

Also, I personally, get rid of the stupid plastic dust cover from factory. Made this mistake of bolting the baffle over the top of this. All it done was pool water around the bottom of the baffle. 8 months later the baffle was warped, screws holding the speaker in rusted out, and if it wasnt for the fact the bottom screws let go of MDF due to it expanding, I would have had warped speakers.

Thanks for the heads up! ;)

Thanks for the writeup Ers, will hopefully find it useful on a day off work soon :).
I linked to it in the DIY Magna Audio sticky.

No probs.

Built enough of these things to do it blindfolded nowadays lol

Will post pics either tomorrow or day after to give people a better idea.

OK.

Get a sheet of 12mm MDF.

Take out you plastic 'baffle'.

Trace the outside of this. Cut the MDF x 2.

Now, with a pen/pacer/texta put a dot where each of the original screws that hold the factory speaker are. Drill these out with a 2.5mm drill.

Next, line up the MDF baffle where the stock one went.

Look on the side closest to the door hinge. You will notice on each door, about 2/3rds of the way up, a square bit protruding. You will need to chisel this out on the MDF baffle. Around 4.5cm wide, half the depth of the MDF, and around 5cm long.

Now, on the opposite side of the baffle (from memory) you have two bolts in the door, that would stop this sitting flush. You will need to countersink this on the baffle.

Once this is done, secure the MDF baffle to the door. Now, I cant remeber if I used factory screws, come to think of it, I dont think I did. I used wood screws, some 45mm deep.

Put your door trim back on (minus speaker grill).

Trace the opening of the speaker grill onto the MDF baffle.

Find the centre of this.

Measure your speaker cutout diameter, then trace this on the baffle.

You can now either use a router to cut this hole out, or:

Use a 10mm drill, and drill 4 points as close as possible on the inside of the outline. Get a jigsaw, and cut very carefully (make sure you wear ear protection, goggles, and breathing mask).

Now secure your speaker, and go nuts.

To protect against water - coat with acrylic/poly something paint (outdoor paint is just fine). You will need maybe 250ml.

I also cover the MDF baffle's with Dynamat extreme on the part that sits against the door trim.

P.S My door trim wont clip back in perfectly on the bottom, never noticed this until now. Its either that i've taken the door off too many times, or a 12mm baffle is a bit thick.

If I feel up to it, I'll pull my trim off tomorrow if I get a chance, and the baffle, take some pics to help explain.

great write up mate
but one thing, it's much easier to cut out the speaker hole first then the cut it out after you've cut the baffles out

Cheers,

The reason why I say to place the baffle inside the door, and trace the speaker hole is from memory (could be wrong) the factory speaker position places the speaker slightly to the side of the speaker grill, covering part of the speaker..

Its only around 1-2cm or so IIRC.

if thats the case then shine a torch in there to see
but i do think they are off centre slightly

ive got a pair of mdf baffles to suit an magna door with low speaker mount, made for 8" speakers but can easily be converted for 6" or whatever you want. free to whoever wants em. pickup only. (Mandurah, WA)

I'll pick them up, if still available.

sure are mate. ill be in west perth today visiting the housing center if its convenient. ill PM my phone number for you.

I would have been interested...if i hadnt just gone down to repco and bought some. ($7 is a bargain! Saves me much hassle)

I would have been interested...if i hadnt just gone down to repco and bought some. ($7 is a bargain! Saves me much hassle)

More info???? MDF Squares????

Just got some Response Splits on sale from 250 so these baffles sound like the G O

More info???? MDF Squares????

Just got some Response Splits on sale from 250 so these baffles sound like the G O

Nah just the circle bits... But they are mdf and they save alot of time and effort trying to make a good circle.
I had already made the mdf squares myself so now i just have to nail/ glue the squares and the circles together!

Thanks for this guys, installed today, with the help of another member, Thanx Mate!!!!
Takes a lot of vibration out of the doors and puts that energy into more sound.:D

Bring on a non-amped sound-off, that all I can say:shock:

BTW the best replacement screw we found was a 10 gauge x 25 mm.

We also drilled out the the MDF so these would not bite into the wood, so we could feel the screw's tighten into original holes.

10 gauge screws? **** me! cant say ive ever seen a 25mm 10g screw :P (wood screws are usually 4ga)

Take one of the ones you pull out out in with, add 12mm for the MDF on to what sticks out the Plastic baffle from the oridinal screw and thats what you'll leave with, 10 x 25 mm 25 pckt cost $3.40 Zinc plate, round head philips.:)

Dont use wood screws to go into the door. The thread doesnt need to hold the MDF, the head does that. It was the same thread as the screw we took out. If you use wood screws you will feel it tighten on the wood, not the door.

Sorry, should have said they were not wood screws.

I'm sure you are all going to love me for this, and maybe the Mods can put this in the DIY section:

I made door baffles yesterday and got my template onto computer. So now all you have to do is print, trace and cut.

Even the screw holes have been included. There are two A4 pieces - print both, than join with sticky tape.

BTW: The speaker hole is for a 6.5" speaker, but i have marked the centre spot for anyone wanting to use smaller/larger speakers.

I have also included a pic of the finished product.

http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/9378/cimg2530fs3.th.jpg (http://img291.imageshack.us/my.php?image=cimg2530fs3.jpg) http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/3843/baffle1.th.jpg (http://img208.imageshack.us/my.php?image=baffle1.jpg) http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/7564/baffle2.th.jpg (http://img208.imageshack.us/my.php?image=baffle2.jpg)

I'm sure you are all going to love me for this, and maybe the Mods can put this in the DIY section:

I made door baffles yesterday and got my template onto computer. So now all you have to do is print, trace and cut.

Even the screw holes have been included. There are two A4 pieces - print both, than join with sticky tape.

BTW: The speaker hole is for a 6.5" speaker, but i have marked the centre spot for anyone wanting to use smaller/larger speakers.

I have also included a pic of the finished product.

http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/9378/cimg2530fs3.th.jpg (http://img291.imageshack.us/my.php?image=cimg2530fs3.jpg) http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/695/baffle1yc2.th.jpg (http://img291.imageshack.us/my.php?image=baffle1yc2.jpg) http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/7422/baffle2jg4.th.jpg (http://img291.imageshack.us/my.php?image=baffle2jg4.jpg)Your right we love you!

Take one of the ones you pull out out in with, add 12mm for the MDF on to what sticks out the Plastic baffle from the oridinal screw and thats what you'll leave with, 10 x 25 mm 25 pckt cost $3.40 Zinc plate, round head philips.:)

Dont use wood screws to go into the door. The thread doesnt need to hold the MDF, the head does that. It was the same thread as the screw we took out. If you use wood screws you will feel it tighten on the wood, not the door.

Sorry, should have said they were not wood screws.

wood screws work fine :) 10g i presume you are feeding back into the original holes? most people are too lazy for that, create your own holes :D

also i was thinking M10, not 10G, silly me :)

Nice work :)

Just remember that the baffle pictured is the high mount,

There's a low mount aswell :)

Nice work :)

Just remember that the baffle pictured is the high mount,

There's a low mount aswell :)How much difference in high or low mount & which models have which ones?
Is it power to non power models or something like that?

Davo! and I did this on Sat With a TJ Sports and a TW ES, both with power windows, and our holes could not have been more different!!!!:D TJ was angled and high mount, the TW was Flat and low mount. The template was the same however and the speaker hole marking would be handy....

Davo! and I did this on Sat With a TJ Sports and a TW ES, both with power windows, and our holes could not have been more different!!!!:D TJ was angled and high mount, the TW was Flat and low mount. The outside was the same however and the speaker hole marking would be handy....Well mine is a TJ Sports & it is angled so I guess it would be a high mount.

Well mine is a TJ Sports & it is angled so I guess it would be a high mount.

yeah it will be. I didnt bother making any kind of angled baffle, just made one that sat flush just like the pic above. you just have to cut a little bit off the black plastic thingo thats attached to the back of the speaker grill on the inside of the door trim. ("Thingo" is obviously not the correct part name but you will know what i mean when you have a look)

Pics of what I meant by countersinking things etc - sorry for delay, slipped my mind :redface:

http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/2576/p1030416sn5.th.jpg (http://img512.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p1030416sn5.jpg)

http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/3917/p1030417xp7.th.jpg (http://img512.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p1030417xp7.jpg)

http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/5339/p1030418sg0.th.jpg (http://img407.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p1030418sg0.jpg)

Hey all. Im going to be doing this to my TJ Executive with Electric windows this week sometime (pending weather). My magnets are quite deep on the speakers, will i run into any issues at all? I've been using the angled plastic baffles from my VRX and they are really vibrational.

Hey all. Im going to be doing this to my TJ Executive with Electric windows this week sometime (pending weather). My magnets are quite deep on the speakers, will i run into any issues at all? I've been using the angled plastic baffles from my VRX and they are really vibrational.

Well, I think the baffle allows a 7/8cm deep speaker to sit in it? But if your speaker is deeper than this you could just add a speaker spacer thing (round bit of mdf which you can buy from repco..etc) on top which will add another cm or so on.
If your speakers are recieving more than 50wrms, I would recommend an MDF baffle...

Although I do miss some of the vibrations running through my arm when I leant on my door trim :(.

I had to make some new MDF baffles a few days ago to suit my new power windows, have just a few issues with Onkytonks speaker baffle template. First off, the hole in the middle was not big enough for my 6.5" speakers (Bout 1-2cm small), and the screw hole locations, were off. (each by around 1cm in diff directions).
This may be my fault for not printing it right (Printed 'as is', ie did not stretch to fit page which may have been required... I dunno), but I managed to get mine to fit regardless. Cheers for the template anyway Onkytonk, was a very decent fit to my door!!

I'm sure you are all going to love me for this, and maybe the Mods can put this in the DIY section:

I made door baffles yesterday and got my template onto computer. So now all you have to do is print, trace and cut.

Even the screw holes have been included. There are two A4 pieces - print both, than join with sticky tape.

BTW: The speaker hole is for a 6.5" speaker, but i have marked the centre spot for anyone wanting to use smaller/larger speakers.

I have also included a pic of the finished product.

http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/9378/cimg2530fs3.th.jpg (http://img291.imageshack.us/my.php?image=cimg2530fs3.jpg) http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/3843/baffle1.th.jpg (http://img208.imageshack.us/my.php?image=baffle1.jpg) http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/7564/baffle2.th.jpg (http://img208.imageshack.us/my.php?image=baffle2.jpg)
Hey Joe, do these allow the speaker to line up perfectly with the speaker grille on the door? Mine don't line up 100% which is going to make it tricky for what I plan on doing in the near future with my doors, so I need to redo them, if your template is lined up that saves me getting the measuring tape out :P

Lugo - simple way is take the speaker grill off, put the baffle in - and put a dot in the centre....

Done and done :)

Lugo - simple way is take the speaker grill off, put the baffle in - and put a dot in the centre....

Done and done :)
You and your methods. Why didn't I think of that...

lol

Cheers.

Lugo - simple way is take the speaker grill off, put the baffle in - and put a dot in the centre....

Done and done :)

I think this would only work for the manual windows though right? Would be very hard to find the centre with the heavily angled power window spacer things on the back of the trim...

Its a guesstimate - which, is a lot better doing it by eye (with the grill off) than by measuring. That is providing you can visualise how the speaker sits.

I still think its the easiest method lol

Oh - as for how to make angled MDF baffles.....I found one (expensive) way....

Selly's Knead It (pretty sure s_tim_ultimate done this aswell)......went through 3 sticks ($42) on two baffles - but works a treat!

I think this would only work for the manual windows though right? Would be very hard to find the centre with the heavily angled power window spacer things on the back of the trim...
Nah I think this will work fine for what I'm trying to do. Whether I succeed or not in what I want to do is something else entirely lol

Its a guesstimate - which, is a lot better doing it by eye (with the grill off) than by measuring. That is providing you can visualise how the speaker sits.

I still think its the easiest method lol

Oh - as for how to make angled MDF baffles.....I found one (expensive) way....

Selly's Knead It (pretty sure s_tim_ultimate done this aswell)......went through 3 sticks ($42) on two baffles - but works a treat!

Yep did the exact same. So easy to work with and sets like rock. Worth the price IMO

Only problem is you really need to work fast. From it forming a uniform colour to being unworkable is around 2minutes. BUT, that stuff is the bomb for a lot of things, and bonds to just about anything.

Only problem is you really need to work fast. From it forming a uniform colour to being unworkable is around 2minutes. BUT, that stuff is the bomb for a lot of things, and bonds to just about anything.

Yes 100% agreed, first time I used it I was like no way, the shit's set alread!! Wasted a whole tube. Have used it for quite a few things, bonus is it can be painted! Makes it a handy item to have when your having a house inspection/moving out of a rented property too, excellent to replace tile grout with....

How about builders bog? Will the vibrations kill it?

How about builders bog? Will the vibrations kill it?

More than likely lol

Selly's Knead It - while somewhat expensive (though, $26 per angle isnt too bad), it works, its proven, and its damn easy to work with (once you realise you need to prepare before kneading it).

thought i would bring this thread back !

I just made these

http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/1097/sany0817.jpg
By peaandham (http://profile.imageshack.us/user/peaandham) at 2010-06-04

thought i would bring this thread back !

I just made these


Nice job mate, what size woofer? Mine were angled like the factory setup, didnt think to do it flat.
Should sound tight.

6.5 Inch Focal Polyglass Midbass, on 12mm MDF, Countersunk 10 gauge, 24-25mm screws, Bostik Paintable Adhesive Sealant (to seal any air gaps)

Edit: I might whack another piece of MDF on top, seeing as how i got some 6" spacers sitting in the garage. I might have a crack at angling them if im not too lazy ! Also the stock plastic TE Mounts arent angled, are they ?

this should help all DIY first time baffle makers lol. Well done for bringing it back again. Thinking about the angled baffle now too. May fix my big magnet problem.

Exact Splits I had. Nice sound.

Yes they sound very nice powered off my RE Amp. I just need to seal the service holes with 3mm MDF and i will be happy. Also i used the template that was on page 3 and im not sure if it meant for a TE because it didnt sit well and i wasnt happy. So instead i traced the stock one and the bigger you can do a baffle the better.

I making ever newer ones but this time i am adding a 12mm MDF ring to the front of the baffle.

Just taking a quick look thru this thread now. I want to use some MDF baffles for the new splits I've purchased but I really don't have the equipment to do it properly - and probably not the skills either, lol. Vehicle is a TL - the template provided earlier in the thread (page 2) probably won't work for mine as it appears to be for an earlier model 3rd gen, and reading what 'Shoot' had to say re TW/TJ differences, I suspect the baffle I need to construct will be a lower mounted one.

To cut a long thread short - would anyone on this site be able to assist me with this? I'd be happy to pay for cost of materials and time to get it done. Cheers D

All you really need its a texta to trace the old ones a drill, and a jigsaw.

All you really need its a texta to trace the old ones a drill, and a jigsaw.

Yes, all of that fine apart from the jigsaw, which I don't have and honestly, don't really see myself using beyond this project.

You can get cheap ones from bunnings for about $20 and it will come in hand if you will ever seal your service holes.

I'm sure you are all going to love me for this, and maybe the Mods can put this in the DIY section:

I made door baffles yesterday and got my template onto computer. So now all you have to do is print, trace and cut.

Even the screw holes have been included. There are two A4 pieces - print both, than join with sticky tape.

BTW: The speaker hole is for a 6.5" speaker, but i have marked the centre spot for anyone wanting to use smaller/larger speakers.

I have also included a pic of the finished product.

http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/9378/cimg2530fs3.th.jpg (http://img291.imageshack.us/my.php?image=cimg2530fs3.jpg) http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/3843/baffle1.th.jpg (http://img208.imageshack.us/my.php?image=baffle1.jpg) http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/7564/baffle2.th.jpg (http://img208.imageshack.us/my.php?image=baffle2.jpg)

I printed these out, have I scaled it wrong? The hole cutout is 120mm, just under 5 inches, on the one I printed. Is it supposed to be that, or a 6.5" dia hole?