Hey guys,

As some of you may know I have been suspended from driving for 6 months, with my car getting a bit older (262,000kms) the gf and I have decided its time to get rid of it and get something with lower kms before **** starts fitting the fan (I know they can last forever, but seeing how I didn't get log books, I don't trust it). While I am suspended I will be saviing every penny to pay out my loan.

So I will be upgrading to a TL VRX Manual later this year (Hoping for around August).

Anyways, all my modifications are now frozen and I may even reverse a few of them. It is now time to stand saving up to pay out my existing personal loan (I have a balance of $6000 left).

Now, when I get the new car I want to do it properly this time and get the basics done upfront (Wheels, exhaust, suspension).

I need to know what exactly I would expect to pay for the following (all done at once):

Tyres and Suspension
- 18x8 ROH Mantis Chrome + Tyres
- Lowering on King SL/L, or L/L depending on clearance (Should be around $400 right?)
- Wheel balance and alignment
- Possibly KYB shocks all-round

Exhaust
- Hurricane Headers
- Magnaflow High-flow Cat
- 2.5" Cat-back in to twin tips (one each side)
- 2x Lukey mufflers
- Moulded rear bar

I am just trying to establish how much more I need in terms of the loan period and amount. At the present I'm expecting around the $12500 mark for the car, then $1200ish for rego, transfer and CTP, and another $1500ish for interstate travel if required. I also have around 3 buyers interested in my TH and willing to pay $4,000 for it.

FYI: The final mod to be done to the TH is a TJ boot lid (this is already pending paint) - Once done it will be driven around 200km a fortnight (compared to the average 1200km/week) until the new car is bought, then will be sold.

Cheers,
Dean

You say you want a Manual, but afaik your on an auto licence though? and you dont know how to drive a manual correct?

Your probably better off looking at a GTV or a Rada of some kind, more bang for buck you can get them in AWD, and you can fit the VRX kit straight up to them no issues.

You say you want a Manual, but afaik your on an auto licence though? and you dont know how to drive a manual correct?

Your probably better off looking at a GTV or a Rada of some kind, more bang for buck you can get them in AWD, and you can fit the VRX kit straight up to them no issues.
Green P's is unrestricted tranny, going to do a couple lessons first to catch up (I have a few months after I get my license back in June and havent driven manual in quite a while). Manual is just more fun - Auto bores me to the point where I do stupid things (ie. 132km/h). The thing that turns me off AWD is the fuel eco. I drive through the city most days, need something that is comfortable (excludes all small cars), but economical (excludes falcodores). Besides I just like the way magnas feel - Otherwise I'd go and buy a Skyline and be called a ricer everyday :P

Green P's is unrestricted tranny, going to do a couple lessons first to catch up (I have a few months after I get my license back in June and havent driven manual in quite a while). Manual is just more fun - Auto bores me to the point where I do stupid things (ie. 132km/h). The thing that turns me off AWD is the fuel eco. I drive through the city most days, need something that is comfortable (excludes all small cars), but economical (excludes falcodores). Besides I just like the way magnas feel - Otherwise I'd go and buy a Skyline and be called a ricer everyday :P

With my KW i get around 9's on the highway, with a full exhaust change and piggyback id get low 8's which is similar to what i got in the TH before i smashed a blower ontop of it. Also the Late VY/VZ/VE get better economy then what the TH did as well, i had a VZ for work and regularly got 900k's to a tank on the highway. Same deal with the falcons, they are all within 1l of each other now, but if you are that worried about economy, you need to remove the lead from your shoes. Using your transmission as an excuse to get you "bored" is poor form Cruise control and paying attention to what you are doing and you wont speed.

Thats another reason for upgrading - Cruise control, ABS, TCL, Power windows etc... And the Falcons for me are a no-go, don't like them, Commodores - Overpriced (My budget would be 15,000 max, looking for something with under 60,000kms). 9s isnt bad. I usually don't hammer the TH I average around 10s (mixed city/highway) Always get 600km+/tank. It's just when I cruise its at a slightly higher speed.

Anyways, decided on the car and all after a long discussion with the gf - Just need to budget for it (hence the asking of prices). :)

Thats another reason for upgrading - Cruise control, ABS, TCL, Power windows etc... And the Falcons for me are a no-go, don't like them, Commodores - Overpriced (My budget would be 15,000 max, looking for something with under 60,000kms). 9s isnt bad. I usually don't hammer the TH I average around 10s (mixed city/highway) Always get 600km+/tank. It's just when I cruise its at a slightly higher speed.

Anyways, decided on the car and all after a long discussion with the gf - Just need to budget for it (hence the asking of prices). :)

No TCL on the Manual models, for 18k you can get a VY calais with under 100,000 owned by some old bloke who uses it to go to the coast and back with the family, i hardly see that overpriced, espically when it has cruise leather, sunroof, CC, bigger brakes, similar power and economy, and HID's standard.

But yeah if i didnt get the KW for 5 grand i doubt i would of brought another Magna, just so many other cars out on the market that are same price but more feature packed and easier to modify.

Tempting, however for the kind of kms I'm looking for theres nothing under 22,000. Also blowing 18k in one go, theres nothing left for mods :(

Also as said previously, I won't be going HIDs or 5% tint again - I'll be keeping it legal (well, maybe 20% tint).

Green P's is unrestricted tranny

I would check that out mate, as far as I know you arent unrestricted until your full license.

Take it back to stock, Take out your springs if you could be bothered (you can have the front struts out of my other KS if you want they are a straight swap). take the rims off and take out all valuable ICE.

You can even consider taking it off the road and cashing in your insurance now..... will help with saving

I would check that out mate, as far as I know you arent unrestricted until your full license.

Take it back to stock, Take out your springs if you could be bothered (you can have the front struts out of my other KS if you want they are a straight swap). take the rims off and take out all valuable ICE.

You can even consider taking it off the road and cashing in your insurance now..... will help with saving

Gf is still driving, as for the license I have checked it out - They changed it not long ago - Green P's = unrestricted transmission.

I would check that out mate, as far as I know you arent unrestricted until your full license.


yeah dean is correct, if you are only on auto license, for your reds, you are alloud to drive manual, on your greens.
even if this was true i dont think the cops ever check, when i was a P plater, i was switching between the manual and auto cars in our family, and the cops never checked

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62946

Problem solved! If I had the money this would be the first car I'd look at!

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62946

Problem solved! If I had the money this would be the first car I'd look at!

Reasons why not for me....

1. Not white
2. Over 60,000kms
3. Auto
4. No sunroof (this one isnt really a biggy, but it is prefered)

Tyres and Suspension
- 18x8 ROH Mantis Chrome + Tyres - $1500
- Lowering on King SL/L, or L/L depending on clearance (Should be around $400 right?) - closer to $500 (best price I got was 495)
- Wheel balance and alignment - $70

- 2x Lukey mufflers $195 Fitted

Those are the one's I know for sure. Others would be a guesstimate.

Reasons why not for me....

1. Not white
2. Over 60,000kms
3. Auto
4. No sunroof (this one isnt really a biggy, but it is prefered)
Fair enough mate.

To answer your original question, extractrs + zorst will equal almost $2k. Personally, having been there before, I'd leave the exhaust and extractors alone. They're very well setup from factory and will offer little to no gain in performance, and IMO, won't sound as good as the stock VRX system. hy_boi's VRX sounds wicked and it's stock.

You will be looking for a while for those specific features to pop up, espically the under 60k part, i was lucky last 2 cars i purchased, the TH had 38k the KW 4500, both were just pure luck.

Because the TL is about 5 year old now, at an average of around 15-20k a year you will find most at around the 80-100k mark give or take.

You will be looking for a while for those specific features to pop up, espically the under 60k part, i was lucky last 2 cars i purchased, the TH had 38k the KW 4500, both were just pure luck.

Because the TL is about 5 year old now, at an average of around 15-20k a year you will find most at around the 80-100k mark give or take.
There was a white TL VRX with 45000 a couple of weeks ago - only thing it didnt have is a sunroof. I got a couple months after I pay out the loan to look anyways :)


Fair enough mate.

To answer your original question, extractrs + zorst will equal almost $2k. Personally, having been there before, I'd leave the exhaust and extractors alone. They're very well setup from factory and will offer little to no gain in performance, and IMO, won't sound as good as the stock VRX system. hy_boi's VRX sounds wicked and it's stock.

Hmm, fair enough - Maybe I'll just do the cat and second muffler then? :) I like the look of 2 mufflers as opposed to 1 - looks more balanced.

Tyres and Suspension
- 18x8 ROH Mantis Chrome + Tyres - $1500
- Lowering on King SL/L, or L/L depending on clearance (Should be around $400 right?) - closer to $500 (best price I got was 495)
- Wheel balance and alignment - $70

- 2x Lukey mufflers $195 Fitted

Those are the one's I know for sure. Others would be a guesstimate.

if you try hard enough you can get them for $300 for the 4 springs

There was a white TL VRX with 45000 a couple of weeks ago - only thing it didnt have is a sunroof. I got a couple months after I pay out the loan to look anyways :)



Hmm, fair enough - Maybe I'll just do the cat and second muffler then? :) I like the look of 2 mufflers as opposed to 1 - looks more balanced.

i never said that they are impossible to find, just rare, you might as well leave it stock the stock cat etc can flow well to 160+ killerwasps, you probably can sink that 2k into a set of cams or a piggyback+tune.

i never said that they are impossible to find, just rare, you might as well leave it stock the stock cat etc can flow well to 160+ killerwasps, you probably can sink that 2k into a set of cams or a piggyback+tune.
tbh with the magnaflow high-flow cat I just like the sound they make, Mitch put one on his car and it sounds awesome. Based on whats said above though if the gains arent much I suppose the headers can be scrapped. Any improvement with a 2.5" mandrel-bent catback?

As for the piggyback+tune, that can come later (once the new loan is half-paid off).

tbh with the magnaflow high-flow cat I just like the sound they make, Mitch put one on his car and it sounds awesome. Based on whats said above though if the gains arent much I suppose the headers can be scrapped. Any improvement with a 2.5" mandrel-bent catback?

As for the piggyback+tune, that can come later (once the new loan is half-paid off).

Again, the factory system is 2.4 Mandrel (close enough to 2.5 in my books) so you wont gain anything noticeable except sound really, that 2k you put towards the exhaust is easily enough for a Miniceptor + tune and you should have enough change to get a carton out of it, not only will you get about 15-20hp gains, you will get better economy.

- Lowering on King SL/L, or L/L depending on clearance (Should be around $400 right?)
- Wheel balance and alignment
- Possibly KYB shocks all-round

I paid $1200 for all of this. I live in a regional area though so I imagine you could probably find somewhere a bit cheaper.


Now, when I get the new car I want to do it properly this time and get the basics done upfront (Wheels, exhaust, suspension).

I need to know what exactly I would expect to pay for the following (all done at once):

You're going to spend close to $5k on mods straight away when you purchase a steadily depreciating $12k car...?

You're going to spend close to $5k on mods straight away when you purchase a steadily depreciating $12k car...?

one would assume though, that @ $12,000 the majority of the depreciation would have happened already.. At worst over the next 3 years I would anticipate that it would only drop another $2k at most.. $10k asking price in another 3 years would be reasonable I would think..

You're going to spend close to $5k on mods straight away when you purchase a steadily depreciating $12k car...?
Haha. It wouldnt be the first time - Heres the tally on the TH (purchase price of $5200.00).

ICE - $1000.00
Exterior Mods - $700.00
Interior Mods - $260.00
Lighting Mods - $350.00
Suspension & Wheel Mods - $980.00
Repairs (Oil leaks and Brakes) - $2140.00

Total $5430.00

At worst over the next 3 years I would anticipate that it would only drop another $2k at most.. $10k asking price in another 3 years would be reasonable I would think..

$10k sounds reasonable to me, but you never know. My TJ VR-X was $16,800 three years ago to the month, and was a very good buy at the time imo. If I went to sell it tomorrow, I doubt I'd even crack the $10k mark :/

Although it was $40k+ five years before that so I guess I can't complain :D


Haha. It wouldnt be the first time - Heres the tally on the TH (purchase price of $5200.00).

Yeah, but you spent that over time - that's pretty natural. To me, it seems wierd to buy a car and then immediately fork out $5k for mods. That's just me though :P

Have you considered getting a 380 VR-X or GT? Could probably buy one within your overall budget and still have enough coin left over to lower it...

Yeah, but you spent that over time - that's pretty natural. To me, it seems wierd to buy a car and then immediately fork out $5k for mods. That's just me though :P

Have you considered getting a 380 VR-X or GT? Could probably buy one within your overall budget and still have enough coin left over to lower it...
Only over 9 months! Rediculous really.

Also, I don't like the look or feel of the 380s, they feel cheap, kind of like a base model VE.

Only over 9 months! Rediculous really.

Also, I don't like the look or feel of the 380s, they feel cheap, kind of like a base model VE.

Yet you drive a base model magna, which is oh so much better....

Yet you drive a base model magna, which is oh so much better....

Ahahahaha :bowrofl:

I am just trying to establish how much more I need in terms of the loan period and amount. At the present I'm expecting around the $12500 mark for the car, then $1200ish for rego, transfer and CTP, and another $1500ish for interstate travel if required. I also have around 3 buyers interested in my TH and willing to pay $4,000 for it.



Probably the best way to save yourself some the hard earned dollars is to employ some car brokers.... (I can give you some help with that) they'll get access to wholesalers / auctions at prices that Joe Public never gets to see.

They will also thoroughly inspect the car so you don't get a lemon ....some have warranty access (I'm not impressed but some people like them)

I reckon you'd save $1500 on interstate travel , probably $2000 on the car and $$$$ on mechanical bills you didn't pick up...

Yet you drive a base model magna, which is oh so much better....
Exactly why I'm getting rid of it! Tbh I think a 380 feels cheaper then a TE exec lol.

Exactly why I'm getting rid of it! Tbh I think a 380 feels cheaper then a TE exec lol.

Cant say i have sat in, or felt one before (wow that sounds very perverted)...

but honestly how could 6+ year newer car feel so tacky, but then again it is mitsu.

Honestly dude, i recon leave the VRX and go for pimp factor...KJ ftw.

Cant say i have sat in, or felt one before (wow that sounds very perverted)...

but honestly how could 6+ year newer car feel so tacky, but then again it is mitsu.

Honestly dude, i recon leave the VRX and go for pimp factor...KJ ftw.

I would if they came in manual :) But yea - The whole lower-grade (non-leather) new range just feels very cheap inside. The seats are stiff, the trim is boring, the plastics are boring, and they just don't feel very welcoming. MitchellO and I went around to a couple of dealers to check out whats new - Most of it is absolute crap, the most comfortable car we came across was a WM statesman.

the 380s are one damn solid car and they are probably one of the most solid cars (in the price range, category etc) that i have ever driven..

so far as i can see the only thing that lets them down in the tacky department is the interior plastics.. other than that they are a *********** solid, well built, strong car..

MitchellO and I went around to a couple of dealers to check out whats new - Most of it is absolute crap, the most comfortable car we came across was a WM statesman.

see i think the new stato's look too much like a VE omega inside.. they dont have the 'same feel' that the previous statesmans used to have in the earlier models (like the WL, WH etc) because they had the plush seats, the plush door trims, the plush carpets, the plush dashes, the woodgrain etc..

I agree, the majority of new cars these days are just a big bowl of well, plastic, really and you will find that a lot of them are worse than others unless you start to fork out the bigger dollars..

Yea, its really sad to see how the interiors of cars are going these days - The exteriors are looking great but hop inside and you just think "Cheap".

What is really annoying me is the integrated cd/radio systems being integrated in to the dash face, makes aftermarket installations a whole lot harder when it shouldn't be.

Another epic thread from Life

Another epic thread from Life

1115/81 = 13.7

Not bad considering his Post/Newthread ratio used to be one new thread every 7 posts

Get an Accord.

Tyres and Suspension
- 18x8 ROH Mantis Chrome + Tyres - $1500

I'm assuming that chrome would cost more than shadow chrome, and my 18" Shadow Chrome Mantis + Decent tyres were $2100 including fitting and a wheel alignment. That price was the same that I got quoted at about 4 different places...