I want to get rid of the ES and Magna badges on the rear of my car. What is the best process for doing this job so that I don't wreck the paint work?

Do u mean de-wing or de-badge? :confused:

De-badge:

I just ran a hair drier over the badges to heat and slightly loosen the glue, then ran dental floss underneath to remove the badge. To get the black glue that is left on the car off, i just got a flannel and some hot hot water and just wiped it off easy as. Little polish etc afterwards to get it all perfectly shining again

I am yet to de-wing my car yet but i just plan on changing to a bootlid with out a wing.

Unless you want grommets sticking out of your boot lid, the only proper way to de-wing is to have the holes professional welded and the lid professionally resprayed (I did this with my TJ boot lid for the conversion).

Unless you want grommets sticking out of your boot lid, the only proper way to de-wing is to have the holes professional welded and the lid professionally resprayed (I did this with my TJ boot lid for the conversion).

Or u can buy a boot lit without a spoiler on it, if its the same colour would save you some money i think

Or u can buy a boot lit without a spoiler on it, if its the same colour would save you some money i think

Well, with good paint most wreckers will charge 150ish, I got mine repaired and resprayed for 150.

screw grommets, if you want to use the existing boot lid after dewinging, go visit a cabinet maker and get them to order some 'Fastcaps' in the colour your car is. little sticky dots less than 1mm thick, that stick like theres no tomorrow and blend in really really well

Well, with good paint most wreckers will charge 150ish, I got mine repaired and resprayed for 150.Around $150 for a Verada $100 for a Magna boot & it would'nt be a repaired boo on your car either.
The funny thing is though I had 3 perfectly good boots for ages & could'nt give them away.
I ended up selling 1 for $60 & scrapping the others.

Around $150 for a Verada $100 for a Magna boot & it would'nt be a repaired boo on your car either.
The funny thing is though I had 3 perfectly good boots for ages & could'nt give them away.
I ended up selling 1 for $60 & scrapping the others.

Depends really, for a TL boot you're looking at a higher price being newer and all - Also usually they are in the cage and anything in the cage = +50%.

Depends really, for a TL boot you're looking at a higher price being newer and all - Also usually they are in the cage and anything in the cage = +50%.In the cage?

Best result for de-badging.
1:Remove the badges by using some dental floss of small guitar string and it would be easier to do in summer as the metal and glue will be heated up which will make the glue soft or if done on a cold day,use a hair dryer to warm up.
2:Remove any double sided tape left on the panel by peeling it off by hand and then whatever small amounts are left,use wax and grease remover which you can purchase from supercheap auto.
3:Wash with soapy water and dry down with a chamois.
4:Use 2000wet sanding paper(again from supercheap or auto paint suppliers) and a clean bucket of water and lighty sand over the badge stain or outline left from the badge until the stain is no longer visible,dont go to crazy sanding it or rubbing it down with the tips of your fingers as you may cut through especially with the next step,try and find or buy a small medium thickness block the put the paper on.
5:Once the outline is sanded away,using a medium cutting paste (farecla is the best)on the buff to bring back the shine and remove the scratches left from the 2000wet,once this is done,you wipe down any excess compound with a clean rag then hand polish the area with a final glaze polish(if the colour is black,use a black polish which you should also find either at supercheap or a auto paint store).

Me bad for not reading properly.
It's actually de-badging not de-winging.:nuts:

In the cage?

Basically an area that is blocked from the public with all the newer and more expensive cars, if you need a part they will get it for you, you cannot go in and take the car apart yourself. Not all wreckers do it, a lot of larger wreckers including Blacktown Pick 'n Pay do though.

Basically an area that is blocked from the public with all the newer and more expensive cars, if you need a part they will get it for you, you cannot go in and take the car apart yourself. Not all wreckers do it, a lot of larger wreckers including Blacktown Pick 'n Pay do though.OK thanks. I should have realised thats the place you meant.
To be honest Pick n Payless are one of the most expensive places to go even in the normal yard.
I go to a contact I know in a yard then there are 3 or 4 other good cheap places.
The boot should'nt be too dear.

De-winging a car is a pain in the butt aswell!
If you can find a good second hand boot,go for it cause there arent alot of ones that are in good nic.
Even get a price for a new geniune one even at a clearance price,might save big bucks!
I know the threat is for de-badging but this also helps,if you end up having to weld the holes,it can end up rusting because if you cant touch up the weld burns from inside the skin or rust proofen it properly,it will corrode very quick.
If this is done,tell who ever does it to use weld through primer,essential in the smash repair industry for putting new panels on.

Well, with good paint most wreckers will charge 150ish, I got mine repaired and resprayed for 150.
lol...
I paid $20 for mine...

i've bee wanting to take the wing off mine for a while now (to see what it looks like) and the wing is urathaned on

screw grommets, if you want to use the existing boot lid after dewinging, go visit a cabinet maker and get them to order some 'Fastcaps' in the colour your car is. little sticky dots less than 1mm thick, that stick like theres no tomorrow and blend in really really well

:bowrofl: your not serious are you?
dunno how well they'll blend in cause they have the grain teckture to it
but they do stick pretty well on a clean surface

but i just used some rubber gorments that i got from repco to plug the holes on my boot lid
then painted them the same colour as the car
they dont look too bad once they've been painted

All i did was use Colour Electical tape for a year until i finally got round and filled the holes with Fibrefill sanded it back and sparyed around the holes cant even tell Takes about an hour all up.

Oh crap! Sorry you guys I meant to say 'De-badge' in the title not De-wing. :redface: I had been reading some posts in the members machines section and lots of people talk of de-winging so it must have stuck when I was posting this topic.

Anyway, I hope some others find all the good suggestions and discussion about de-winging helpful. Thanks to you blokes who contributed about de-badging.

Now, do I first just try and gently remove the badges with some dental floss?

Cheers and sorry for the mix-up.

Now, do I first just try and gently remove the badges with some dental floss?

Cheers and sorry for the mix-up.

Yeh mate just grab a hair drier if u can, to heat it the glue up a bit first so it comes off easier, could prob even park it in the sun for a while.

Well said timmyc!
Do exactly this,one step at a time is best then do the rest of the list i have written down or you could be lucky and the badges dont leave any stains.
Hope it all goes well anyway.

Best way ever according to Pete is a steam gun.

Hot water might do it as well.

If the water is too hot like coming from a kettle,it will leave milky blemishes on the clear coat if it is a metallic colour and may make a solid colour look faded.
Warm water is preferred.

jeez, Use turpentine on a rag and rub lightly it'll all come off perfectly. and NO, it doesnt wreck the paint.

Can anyone else confirn Yan's suggestion about using Turps. I have a bottle of Mineral Turps ready to go.

Can anyone else confirn Yan's suggestion about using Turps. I have a bottle of Mineral Turps ready to go.

There's no point, just hair dryer to heat, and fishing line in behind, followed by bug and tar remover to get rid of glue then a good polish.

Get rid of the V6 badges on the side too looks way better.

Never tried it cause i do it according to the book of automotive refinishing plus i've never trialed turps so not 100% sure on it.
Usually a nice clean paint scraper is used to remove the badges but dental floss is the best to remove the badges then use wax and grease remover to remove the left over tape.

Vegas 18's tip's were what i followed and it worked perfectly :D And do take the V6 badges off the side. I did, and it looks so clean.

Same!
Looks heaps clean with no badging especially on black.

Have removed rear tail badges but have a bit of glue left behind. I am going to go and get some bug and tar remover, feel a bit safer doing this. What is the bug remover called and I imagine I can get a can at Auto Bahn/ Repco ect??

i think its actually called bug and tar remover
not sure who makes it but i think it comes in a white spray bottle with a black label
can get it from anywhere, supercheap would be the go (it's with all the car cleaning gear)

Try to remove the double sided glue with your finger first then use wax and grease remover to remove any small bits left over.
Should be fine man,done this method to cars brand new a million times.

or heat it up with a heat gun and rub it off with your finger and then polish

If you use 6lb fishing line & have the ends tied around something you can hold as this makes it easier to do and it rips straight thought the glue in seconds (There Is NO need to heat as it’s a waste of Bloody Time!).

To remove the glue I used “K+N Surface Technologies: Wax & Grease Remover” ($8.99 - AutoBarn) and an arm from a cotton T-Shirt or the like (Apply the remover and then rub off with a dry area on the cloth & repeat till gone).

To remove the glue outline use the same cotton cloth (dry area) and a few drops of water (reapply water when it evaporates) and a fair bit of pressure from your thumb (the force of your rubbing should sway the whole car).

All this worked for my TJ.