Just got a Twin Turbo Oil filter bracket which allows me to hook up an oil cooler to a factory location. On the motor I am running (when it runs) Is there a need for an external oil cooler on an NA? do they have any real benefits on an NA car? And if so, how many rows, how thick?
Can anyone shed some light on this?
I dont want to do what I usually do which is randomly buy something I know nothing about. So if I dont need one, i wont get one.

Anyones thoughts and/or advice welcome
i.e. good kits to buy etc

']Just got a Twin Turbo Oil filter bracket which allows me to hook up an oil cooler to a factory location. On the motor I am running (when it runs) Is there a need for an external oil cooler on an NA? do they have any real benefits on an NA car? And if so, how many rows, how thick?
Can anyone shed some light on this?
I dont want to do what I usually do which is randomly buy something I know nothing about. So if I dont need one, i wont get one.

Anyones thoughts and/or advice welcome
i.e. good kits to buy etc

Theres always benefits adding one, more capacity, more heat removal, and cooler oil = less terminal breakdown = longer lasting motor at 8,00rpm doing reversies for you tuffy

Theres always benefits adding one, more capacity, more heat removal, and cooler oil = less terminal breakdown = longer lasting motor at 8,00rpm doing reversies for you tuffy

no 8000RPM Reverse burnouts for me mate...

']no 8000RPM Reverse burnouts for me mate...

Sorry tuffy


Better make it 12,000 going harder then rotary yo!

In a tight engine bay, they're usually added insurance. If you're just cruising around the city though, it's probably an unnecessary mod; for track work they're a must.

what ever you do, if you are going to bother doing this TUFF get a kit with an oil thermostat. Cold Oil and hig revs isnt nice on an engine. A car isnt warmed up until the oil temp is up to optimal, regardless of what your water temp says. This usually takes 10mintues of driving where as water temp will hit optimum in a couple mins after startup. What you want is something that only really benefits the oil temp if for some reason you start to get it up around the 90degree mark.

JustJap sell decent enough kits, with oil cooler cores 2/3 the size of an A4 page. They are universal so find out the lengths of the braided lines you get, so you can decide on a good mounting area. While your at it you might as well get the kit that comes with oil filter relocation aswell. I dont know what your new engine is like but if its like the 12v i hate that oil filter location more then anything.

what ever you do, if you are going to bother doing this TUFF get a kit with an oil thermostat. Cold Oil and hig revs isnt nice on an engine. A car isnt warmed up until the oil temp is up to optimal, regardless of what your water temp says. This usually takes 10mintues of driving where as water temp will hit optimum in a couple mins after startup. What you want is something that only really benefits the oil temp if for some reason you start to get it up around the 90degree mark.

JustJap sell decent enough kits, with oil cooler cores 2/3 the size of an A4 page. They are universal so find out the lengths of the braided lines you get, so you can decide on a good mounting area. While your at it you might as well get the kit that comes with oil filter relocation aswell. I dont know what your new engine is like but if its like the 12v i hate that oil filter location more then anything.

Can i ask what is so bad about the standard oil filter location?
I'll have a loot at the just jap site too. Now you've intrigued me with this oil thermostat stuff :)

for some reason the stock location doesnt do it for me, i know i have to get under the car anyways for the sump plug but i guess its the fact its no completely straight down removeable, as the x-member runs half underneath it.

ANyways, a filter relocation isnt a deal breaker for me, but a thermostat for your oil cooler setup would be. There are many kits out there now with them, and just like a radiator/thermostat setup where as there is another line that is open all the time until the oil temps starts to get above 60ish and the thermo still open up slightly to divert some oil to the cooler and when the temp is roughly 90 its fully open.

Ive seen oil temps as low as 30 when driving on the highway at 90km/h in 6gear in an S15, that was without a thermostat.

paul i believe both those lines and senders for 1 turbo each not 1 sender 1 return.

paul i believe both those lines and senders for 1 turbo each not 1 sender 1 return.

Going by these pics they are :confused:
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9df23b3127ccec651c048e6bd00000040O08QaOHDRo0aA9 vPhw/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9df23b3127ccec6518d7b270000000040O08QaOHDRo0aA9 vPhw/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Tuffy,

I run an oil cooler on my car, it is mounted behind my FMIC. I noticed a difference in the condition of my oil after a few thou k's. As for the relocation kit, you have PLENTY of room to relocate it into your wheel arch as I have done mine on my 2nd gen. Service time comes easy, all I do is hook hard left, put tray under wheel arch and take off filter, no need to wait with a boiling hot engine.

Look at this post I made http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60021&highlight=latest+addition All about my oil cooler and relocation kit. I have also changed my car to a Z9 (Ford) filter which has a lager and better filter rate than the mitsubishi 4G54 ones.

All the best,

Ben

I like that idea....Alot of room in that gap...
Where did you get that kit from?
And is a general type of cooler that you would go for with a certain amount of rows in it?
Any more info you can provide on that benny?
I like Z9 filters...cheap as chups bro

']Going by these pics they are :confused:
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9df23b31cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

how is it set up on the stocko TT though??

Just checking photo's from what ive seen the high pressure (smaller diameter) running to the filter housing which would be the returns. The larger feeds are picked up off the sump (only have pics of feeds on converted fwds). It'd be something i'd definately make sure of before trying.

As the oil should be under something like 20psi it'll probably still flow however its routed but it may be starved through the cooler or similar.

']I like that idea....Alot of room in that gap...
Where did you get that kit from?
And is a general type of cooler that you would go for with a certain amount of rows in it?
Any more info you can provide on that benny?
I like Z9 filters...cheap as chups bro

Tuffy, if you still have your hektik mate still at supercrap have a look at the davies craig oil cooler and filter reloaction kits, you can order them with your specific thread adaptors etc etc they are about 100 afaik for a core the size of a foolscrap piece of paper

Tuffy, if you still have your hektik mate still at supercrap have a look at the davies craig oil cooler and filter reloaction kits, you can order them with your specific thread adaptors etc etc they are about 100 afaik for a core the size of a foolscrap piece of paper

Sweet, I'll suss it out over the next week or two.
AJ - Sorry man just explain that last sentence a bit better...didn't make much sense to me. So if your saying on a stock TT one of the threads is used for a cooler and the other for the rear or front turbo?

']Sweet, I'll suss it out over the next week or two.
AJ - Sorry man just explain that last sentence a bit better...didn't make much sense to me. So if your saying on a stock TT one of the threads is used for a cooler and the other for the rear or front turbo?

if it has 3 ports, 1 for front turb 1 for rear and 1 for sender unless it has extra ports on the sump

how is it set up on the stocko TT though??

As the oil should be under something like 20psi it'll probably still flow however its routed but it may be starved through the cooler or similar.

ive pondered this this but the shear pressure of the feed always pushes the oil out. What you need to make sure is that the oil cooler is at a lowish position, so the lines stay ful, as the return line from the cooler will gravity feed empty if mounted substantially higher then the oil filter location.

On the setups ive seen (silvia/skyline) this has often caused an extention of no oil pressure at start up of 3-4seconds.

']Sweet, I'll suss it out over the next week or two.
AJ - Sorry man just explain that last sentence a bit better...didn't make much sense to me. So if your saying on a stock TT one of the threads is used for a cooler and the other for the rear or front turbo?

The under 20psi bit?? Ok oil system will be under something like 20psi due to the oil pump.

Anyway to put it simply a force is created as (F = pressure x area). This can be seen by the head developed. This is equal to H = change in pressure / (density x gravity).

Head is the amount the oil pump can push the oil vertically up a surge shaft or in this case upwards from the cooler back to the housing overall.

Should be independent of flow rate (Q = velocity x area) but the change in area means there'll be a change in flow velocity so i was just saying you have to ensure there'll be suitable flow through the cooler. I haven't got a housing yet so cant tell you.
For more wiki --> continuity equation (fluid dynamics as i think there's over 9000 of these).

I think thats right, haven't covered this topic for 3 months so i've probably got something wrong meh someone more knowledgable can add.

Man, I dont know what you guys are crapping on about hey....

All I got told was put the oil cooler below your oil pump and there is less resistance. Like pushing **** up hill. My car has run over 12 months or close enough with my oil cooler and relocation kit and I have not had 1 drama, and mines only a tiny lil 4cyl :P So im sure you 3.5 V6's can handle an oil cooler JUST FINE.

Im running an 18 row cooler tuffy, nothing too small, nothing too big. I got mine from a local car parts store, its a canadian brand with a 10 year warrenty. I dare say thats the main thing, the fins are quiet thin like a radiator, so you wanna make sure you got a good warrenty incase of a defect.

The relocation kit was through the same mob, ive hunted on ebay, plenty there but its one of those things id rather see in person before spending my hard earned money on.

But yes, wheel arch is the go for oil filter, soooo easy!

Please PM Me if you need any more details mate

As for start up as someone mentioned above, oil cooler does not SUCK oil, its a positive pressure and you add a lil more oil to your engine to compensate when doing a service... Common Sence.

I always chuck a whole 1L of Moreys Oil Additive to my oil when servicing... I swear by it for cold starts and is meant to coat your pistons for and oil starve issues...

And when mounting your oil cooler and filter re-location kit, DId they come with brackets to suit? Or did you have to jimmy something up in the shed?

Also tuffy being that the oil cooler should keep the nominal temp of the oil down you may be able to use a slightly thinner grade oil, to help in start up wear etc as well and the optimal temp for that oil might be spot on with the cooler

sorry to confuse DIMI but what i mean if that under full load i would expect up to 7bar of oil pressure in which case there wont be any issues with pushing oil around, i was referring to when the car is turned off. Depending on direction of flow of the oil and oil block/adatpor, there can be instances where the oil drains back and the car dry runs for a couple seconds longer then normal at startup.

I dont see this being an issue with a magna, since ive only seen it on engines where the oil filter location was high up the block, close ot the head, but its only happened to a couple SR's and RB's ive played with and it was due to drainback when switched off, and having the oil cooler mounted down infront of the wheels, when both standard oil filter locations where high up under the inlet manifolds.

The info was more so for TUFFY to know just little things that can ruin a good install. Save him a possible drama. Its unlikely to affect his ride though.

Also tuffy being that the oil cooler should keep the nominal temp of the oil down you may be able to use a slightly thinner grade oil, to help in start up wear etc as well and the optimal temp for that oil might be spot on with the cooler
I am Using Castrol Edge 5-30w Right now, not that I know how it really performs :P
But thank you for the info.

To begin with Paul, use Penrite, you have done so much to this engine now appreciate it and look after it :)

The oil cooler is not needed for a street engine at all. The Rotary uses it as it sucks a lot of heat our of the rotors with the oil and thus needs a means to cool it down. You also need to be careful of thermal shock on your engine if you are pumping cold oil into a hot engine. On a race track this is not an issue due to the oil circulating so fast due to the high revs, on a street car at night this can be an issue.

In your engine as you are using it I would not waste my time and effort, the oil filter is in a good place, just after the pump where it belongs, at the end of the day you only have more hoses to leak and blow.

To begin with Paul, use Penrite, you have done so much to this engine now appreciate it and look after it :)

The oil cooler is not needed for a street engine at all. The Rotary uses it as it sucks a lot of heat our of the rotors with the oil and thus needs a means to cool it down. You also need to be careful of thermal shock on your engine if you are pumping cold oil into a hot engine. On a race track this is not an issue due to the oil circulating so fast due to the high revs, on a street car at night this can be an issue.

In your engine as you are using it I would not waste my time and effort, the oil filter is in a good place, just after the pump where it belongs, at the end of the day you only have more hoses to leak and blow.

Mustn't of seen this post..
Thanks for the info. Well I paid like $30 for the TT bracket so I guess its good to have for when I go FI one day.
The Edge was on sale for $30 so got a few bottles.....maybe I'll use it as Run-In oil then?:redface:

Tuffy, if you do disregard Mal's post, and still want to mount one, there is a oil thermostat system you can install.

Below a certain temp, 10% of oil goes through the cooler, 90% through the engine, then once its warm enough, it opens the oil up to hit the oil cooler.

Will ask my mate what brand he will be using if you want, not cheap, but Mal is right with cold oil hitting a hot engine - not really ideal.

Tuffy, if you do disregard Mal's post, and still want to mount one, there is a oil thermostat system you can install.

Below a certain temp, 10% of oil goes through the cooler, 90% through the engine, then once its warm enough, it opens the oil up to hit the oil cooler.

Will ask my mate what brand he will be using if you want, not cheap, but Mal is right with cold oil hitting a hot engine - not really ideal.
Well that brings up my next question. I dont know what temp oil is when running. or what temp it goes down to once cooled.
Im sure the oil temp would be well over the 150deg mark so just wondering if by "cold" what sort of percentage the oil temp is reduced by if you know what I mean?
And yes, would love to know some info.

That you'll have to wait for Mal to answer - RE: oil temp.

Will get other info off my mate, see what system he will end up using (on his rotary Mal ;))

That you'll have to wait for Mal to answer - RE: oil temp.

Will get other info off my mate, see what system he will end up using (on his rotary Mal ;))
Cheers, thats the only thing I'm iffy about, what the actuall temperature reduction will be.
thanks though

']Well that brings up my next question. I dont know what temp oil is when running. or what temp it goes down to once cooled.
Im sure the oil temp would be well over the 150deg mark so just wondering if by "cold" what sort of percentage the oil temp is reduced by if you know what I mean?
And yes, would love to know some info.

Oil shouldnt be over 150 deg, most commerical oil breaks down at around 120-130 deg C. Would depend on the ambient etc, ill take a wild stab in the dark and say a oil cooler will be about 20% removal of core temp. so at 100 deg it will remove 20 deg.

Last comment just a wild guess.

Good oil coolers are controlled by temp of the oil, once it gets down in temp the "thermostat" internally opens and oil just bypasses

Until you have the turbo I would not even look at an oil cooler to be honest, it is simply not needed

The only reason a Rotary has one is it cools the inside of the rotors which hold a lot of heat, piston engines do a similar thing but to a far lesser extent

There you go Tuffy - it depends on your oil cooler aswell (re: thermostat being inbuilt).