so i'm going to be wiring up some driving lights and fog lights... i've drawn up a (rough) map to what i think needs to be done,
http://img128.imageshack.us/img128/3938/wiringforlightsor4.jpg

i used this for the relay wiring... (from http://www.ado13.com/techs/relay.htm)

http://www.ado13.com/techs/relaywire.jpg

anyone able to confirm if this is accurate?
Also! almost forgot... what fuses will i need? (hmm, did i remember to add the fuses to the drawing? if not, imagine they are there)

so i'm going to be wiring up some driving lights and fog lights... i've drawn up a (rough) map to what i think needs to be done,
http://img128.imageshack.us/img128/3938/wiringforlightsor4.jpg

i used this for the relay wiring... (from http://www.ado13.com/techs/relay.htm)

http://www.ado13.com/techs/relaywire.jpg

anyone able to confirm if this is accurate?
Also! almost forgot... what fuses will i need? (hmm, did i remember to add the fuses to the drawing? if not, imagine they are there)

You need a secondary power source. The battery power is meant to power the lights and the ignition power is used to power the relay (or so to speak). When the switch is on, the circuit from the ignition to the ground is complete and that causes an inductance which pulls a metal flap inside the relay, causing it to complet the battery to light circuit. The relay is there to isolate the high currant of battery power from frying the switch.

Normally, what would be happening is wire the relay switch circuit to the ignition circuit and have the power coming from the parker lights (in your case, you can use the left parker light to power the driving lights and the right parker light to power the fog lights).

ok i see. where would be the easiest place to tap into the ignition circuit?

Pitty you can't search for my previous write-up. Its gone now. But what I did for my KS was to get a wagon rear wiper/washer switch and fit it next to the mirror control (in the empty slot). Wired the relay switch circuit to the parker circuit (which has low currant and it also means that it is legal meaning that the driving light can only be turned on if at least the parkers are on) and have the driving lights getting power from the battery.

This following may be the esiest way for you.

Steps:
1. Fit 2 switches in cabin.
2. Fit relays in engine bay (one on the left wheel arch area and one on the right wheel arch area, keeping them away from possible water exposure).
3. Poke a hole in the firewall, big enough for 4 wires.

Now for the fog light (repeat for the driving light):
4. Connect a wire to one of the pins on the switch and feed it through the hole and then connect it to pin 86 of the relay.
5. Connect another wire to the other pin on the switch and feed it through the hole and then connect it to the +ve parker wire.
6. Connect pin 85 of the relay to ground (car body).
7. Connect a wire from battery +ve to pin 30 of relay (using a 15amp inline fuse).
8. Connect pin 87 of relay to +ve of both fog lights.
9. Connect -ve of both fog lights to ground.

Hope that helps.

Not sure if this is helpful or not but in fitting driving lights to my VRX I mounted a toggle switch in the steering column surround under the wiper stalk and ran both wires from the switch out to the relay where I tapped into the high beam circuit behind the light. Wire the relay coil in parallel with the high beam bulb, with the switch in the circuit. This way the driving lights can only come on when high beam is on. I also discovered that, and in my experience very unusually, Mitsu switches negative and not positive on my lights, so running both wires from the dash switch takes this out of the equation.

Hope I haven't confused it too much,
Steve

thanks for that vlad, i'm planning on mounting the switchs on the center consol just above the cup holders.

Not sure if this is helpful or not but in fitting driving lights to my VRX I mounted a toggle switch in the steering column surround under the wiper stalk and ran both wires from the switch out to the relay where I tapped into the high beam circuit behind the light. Wire the relay coil in parallel with the high beam bulb, with the switch in the circuit. This way the driving lights can only come on when high beam is on. I also discovered that, and in my experience very unusually, Mitsu switches negative and not positive on my lights, so running both wires from the dash switch takes this out of the equation.

Hope I haven't confused it too much,
Steve

To my best knowledge, all Oz cars are negative switched.

berg - thanks. thats a great idea, mounting the switches on the stearing coloum.

whats the legal procedures for driving lights? i know fog lights legally cant be left on, but driving lights i'm not sure.

berg - thanks. thats a great idea, mounting the switches on the stearing coloum.

whats the legal procedures for driving lights? i know fog lights legally cant be left on, but driving lights i'm not sure.


Fog & Driving lights fall under same catergory. So same rules apply.

Fog lights can only be used in adverse weather conditions (heavy rain, snow or fog). They must be wired so that they can only be turned on if at least the parker lights are on.

Driving lights can only be used in non-built up areas like on country roads. They must be turned off if there is a vehicle within 200m in front of you (be it going in the same direction or opposite direction). They must be wired so that they can only be turned on if at least the highbeam lights are on (or maybe the same as fog lights, not sure).

right, so driving lights are similarf to high beams.

so whats the deal with the cars that the two sets of headlights... (not sure of the makes or models)

right, so driving lights are similarf to high beams.

so whats the deal with the cars that the two sets of headlights... (not sure of the makes or models)

Most factory fitted auxilary lights at the bottom grill sections are fog lights. And they should be used according to the law. I myself break that law on frequently. My excuse is poor street lighting. Fog lights have a short and broad beam which lights up the sides and are meant to aid vision during fog as it does not reflect back to the driver. Driving lights are long and narrow beams for distance viewing.

The genuine TE/TF lights in the pic I saw in the OP's other thread are fog lights. So they need to be wired to only be able to come on if the parking (or head) lights are on, and are only able to be used in adverse weather.

I tapped the parking light wire near right behind the passenger side headlight, and used an all-in-one relay/fuse from Jaycar (http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SY4076&CATID=28&keywords=&SPECIAL=&form=CAT&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=754) (auto shops have Narva branded ones too).

Have fun!

When I wired mine I also fitted a second relay to switch out the fogs when the driving lights come on. The fogs add no value with beam up and it takes the load of the electrical system.

I have fitted an ECB nudge bar with Lightforce XGTs,
http://www.4x4store.com.au/LightForce-240-XGT-100W-Single-Pack-pr-19039.html
which are very good lights, but probably not quite as good as my all time favourites the Cibie Super Oscar. They are however very light weight, can be mounted at any angle and are very tough, one has sustained a roo hit and a deer hit with the only damage being a blown bulb and a displaced bulb carrier which was just pushed back in to place.

I live in the Snowy Mountains and drive in fog most days in winter and find the fog lights mostly useless, low beam for me mostly in fog.

Steve