I've been leaking coolant for a bit, but nothing significant.

Head gasket has been replaced & all good, i'm running a webber & the stoppers from the old carby are working well.
Seems to be some rusty water coming out from the front of the block, from what are the welsh plugs?
- big round things in the block below the exhaust ports?

Pics attached...

Do i just get some off ebay?
easy to DIY & replace?

You can just get em at repco or autobarn etc.

They are pretty easy to get out.

Some people drill a hole in em and lever em out with a screwdriver, some just tap one side in and the other side turns out (like a door with a hinge in the middle of the top and bottom) and pull em out with pliers.

You just measure the hole, or plug if its intact, and get the appropriate sized plug to replace it.

They arent car specific, just generic, and cheap as.

Give the hole a good clean, find a socket that fits inside the new plug closely and tap her in.

Ask the sales person if it needs any sealant, not usually though. :D

cheers Ol...

I'm guessing that ALL should be replaced - how many are there?

I assume there's some front & back of the block below the zorst & intake manifolds...
What about the sides where the water pump & flywheel is?
Are they all the same size?

cheers Ol...

I'm guessing that ALL should be replaced - how many are there?

I assume there's some front & back of the block below the zorst & intake manifolds...
What about the sides where the water pump & flywheel is?
Are they all the same size?


Its usually a good idea.

I cant remember where all the little buggers are:redface:

Try PM'n Magna Buff ....................... he knows em back ta front :D

3 sizes i done all mine but i cant rember the exact amount but i can tell you where to find them, front of block the one thats leaking there are several small ones on the rear of the block under the balance shaft housing if you will one on the end near the starter motor

Make sure to buy brass welch plugs! I did all mine when I had the engine out of the car and it was easy as (I just Whacked a screwdriver thru the corroded part and twisted them out), but prob a lot more fiddly when in the car I'd imagine. Some you probably dont need to do (the ones with oil behind them, since oil doesn't corrode the steel). But I would have no idea which ones they are off the top of my head, so maybe better to consult the manual for that one, but usually you can tell by looking at them the water/coolant ones will have a bit of residue/rust around them or possibly be leaking a little bit as in your pic.

Btw, the reason for brass is that it doesn't corrode so you shouldn't get any more problems with them in the future. It is a bit more expensive, but worth the bit extra.

replace the three at the front but look for cracks in the block

the rear smaller welsh plugs at the back are easier if the motor is out

and the starter motor off for the larger one behind it

the gearbox has to be dropped out for the one on the waterpump end of the block

With reference to replacing in brass, this is a good move, but I was always taught to leave one as steel. Usually the easiest one to get to on the motor. Reason for this is, they are designed to be a point where the corrosive effects are targeted rather than to chew out your alloy head and blocks. The same principal like the thing in your hot water system, it is designed as a sacrificial rod rather than screw your hot water system. Well that's what I was taught and I have always applied it to cars that I have worked on, but I have never seen a car survive long enough to wear the second fitment out anyway :D

Maybe some of the more mechanical intelligent types could confirm this idea for me:confused:

With reference to replacing in brass, this is a good move, but I was always taught to leave one as steel. Usually the easiest one to get to on the motor. Reason for this is, they are designed to be a point where the corrosive effects are targeted rather than to chew out your alloy head and blocks. The same principal like the thing in your hot water system, it is designed as a sacrificial rod rather than screw your hot water system. Well that's what I was taught and I have always applied it to cars that I have worked on, but I have never seen a car survive long enough to wear the second fitment out anyway :D

Maybe some of the more mechanical intelligent types could confirm this idea for me:confused:

Well if they are a sacrificial anode then it would be a good idea to leave one/them all as steel. The same kind of set ups on boats and car rust protection, the sacrifical anode is (basicly) easier to corrode so that is where all the corrosion will happen, it's all to do with an elcro chemical reaction....

This link explains it in a bit more detail, it's been a while since year 12 chemisty.....

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sacrificial_anode