Hi does anyone know where i can get a diagram for the trans in a TS 95 v6 3.0L auto?? Aparently i need to put new overdrive discs in it. Does anyone know know how this is done or where i can get information about it. Also if anyone knows where the solenoids are on the trans could ya please let me know. Thanks alot!!:bowrofl:

download the workshop manual here http://www.lisho.net/?page_id=3 :cool:

The roundish end plate on the side of the box is where the end clutch/overdrive is

remember how it comes apart it will make putting it all back togeather easier

The new discs have to soak for 2 hours in auto fluid before fitting

for the next step you need to know what you are doing

the solenoids are on top of the valve box not easy to get to
the pan has to come off and only certain screws/bolts are undone to drop the whole valve assembly to replace the solenoids

undo the wrong screws/bolts and you will be in trouble


pm me if you get stuck

Do you mean the over-drive band???

Do you mean the over-drive band???
I have no idea. I was told they are called overdrive discs. does anyone know if the end clutch is the round thing on the right hand side of the box facing the motor from the drivers side of the car? and it have a wire pluged into it. if that makes sence lol.

If you remember what my problem was with my gear box on the other post i made does anyone think it may be the shift solenoids?? i need a positive answer of what i need to fix as i dont want to pull things off that i dont need to. cheers heaps!

The roundish end plate on the side of the box is where the end clutch/overdrive is

remember how it comes apart it will make putting it all back togeather easier

The new discs have to soak for 2 hours in auto fluid before fitting

for the next step you need to know what you are doing

the solenoids are on top of the valve box not easy to get to
the pan has to come off and only certain screws/bolts are undone to drop the whole valve assembly to replace the solenoids

undo the wrong screws/bolts and you will be in trouble


pm me if you get stuck

im thinking the end clutch is the round piece on the end of the box and not the kickdown thing that i was talking about.

yep thats right .... end plate has a few 10mm bolts holding the cover in place

on my avatar the end clutch cover is on the left side of the avatar

on your box
near the cover is a wire and black thing (that is called pulse generator B)

if fourth is not working or engine reving and going nowhere
it is a good chance the end clutch has worn out

the box would not be working properly if the solenoids were faulty

the only band in the box is the kickdown band

Hi, as a transmission rebuilder. I thought I'd throw my opinion in.
The OD or end clutch is at the rear of the box and is held on by 4 x 10mm bolts.
By the sounds of things you have fried the friction plates. The steels also warp and will need replacing.
You will also have to change the OD piston seals.- Special tools are required.Also pay attention to the way the small output shaft goes in. If you put it in wrong you get no drive.

The band is called the kickdown band but is actually on in 2nd and 4th.
One of the most common causes of the OD failing is a broken band.The OD clutch alone can't handle 4th and is fried.
Does your car shift 1-2-3 or hold on to 1st for an extended period before shifting. If it holds on it is shifting 1-3 and the band is broken. That means box out to fix the problem.

You can test to see if your solenoids are working by probing the diagnostic connector with an LED testlight or an analog voltmeter.Any workshop manual should have how this is done.

I hope this information helps you out and doesn't scare you too much.

Generally speaking, if you don't feel confident playing with anything like this, leave it to the professionals.
It might cost a bit, but at least you won't have any headaches.

An easy way to check the solenoids is to have the ignition on, but engine off, and shift into the various gears. On my 3.0 auto TS the solenoids make a buzzing noise in each gear, easy to hear.

My gearbox also acts as if it is skipping 2nd gear, and 4th often slips. I find that by pushing the "power" button on, the box hangs on to each gear to 2,500 rpm. I run the engine up to 60 kph in 3rd, then back off the throttle and push to od button to on. It then engages 4th. I only need to do this when the engine is cold, all other shifts to 4th occur as expected, but I back off the throttle at 50 kph to ease the load on the 4th gear friction plates while it changes gear. Box has done 230,000 km and I put all this down to old age and low oil pressure rather any mechanical defects. Easy to live with, and its not getting worse. Prefer a MANUAL though!

Wazza-1, you know your stuff! My gearbox is obviously very tired, and I'm compensating for its age with my driving style. It would be easier to driver a manual! Anyhow, I drove a newish 380 a few years ago and the auto box was a dream! How much would a drive in/drive out overhaul of my tired TS 3.0L auto box cost me approximately? Know any experts here in Adelaide?

Thanks mate. After 20 years of overhauling transmissions, it's good to be able to talk a bit of shop and get a bit of appreciation. Not like home.lol .

Anyway, your transmission. The only people I could recommend in S.A. are Allstates Automotive Transmissions. There are a few branches around down your way, just look them up and tell them Darren from Waitara branch in Sydney suggested you get your trans looked at.

As for a price? Well, Some shops might have a box on the shelf ready to go that may be a set price. Others would tear down your unit to see the condition before giving you a firm quote. Probably most. I'm not sure what stock the boys in S.A. have so I'd say they would strip and quote. You would probably be looking at about $1500 at a rough guess.
A bit hard to swallow,I know, But you must consider that in the transmission game it really is "you get what you pay for". Beware of cheap quotes as they often add extras like trans fluid and torque convertor to the final bill.

I know a lot of guys would rather a second hand unit instead of paying that much, but unless you know where it came from and how it drove, you really have to be quite lucky to score a good one. I've seen boxes removed 3 or 4 times until a good one was found and someone has to pay for the labour.

Whatever you decide to go with depends on your budget I suppose.
Sorry to waffle on, but I'm trying to be as honest as I can on the subject.

Cheers.

Hi, as a transmission rebuilder. I thought I'd throw my opinion in.
The OD or end clutch is at the rear of the box and is held on by 4 x 10mm bolts.
By the sounds of things you have fried the friction plates. The steels also warp and will need replacing.
You will also have to change the OD piston seals.- Special tools are required.Also pay attention to the way the small output shaft goes in. If you put it in wrong you get no drive.

The band is called the kickdown band but is actually on in 2nd and 4th.
One of the most common causes of the OD failing is a broken band.The OD clutch alone can't handle 4th and is fried.
Does your car shift 1-2-3 or hold on to 1st for an extended period before shifting. If it holds on it is shifting 1-3 and the band is broken. That means box out to fix the problem.

You can test to see if your solenoids are working by probing the diagnostic connector with an LED testlight or an analog voltmeter.Any workshop manual should have how this is done.

I hope this information helps you out and doesn't scare you too much.

Generally speaking, if you don't feel confident playing with anything like this, leave it to the professionals.
It might cost a bit, but at least you won't have any headaches.

wow mate awesome stuff. I am pretty sure this is what is wrong with mine. I get flaring between 2nd and 3rd, and 3rd and 4th when cold. I also get a nasty shunt when it drops down to second, especially if turning. Gears seem to hold on far too long as well. Fluids with a flush have been changed in the last 12 months, and TCU reset a few times. Do you still rebuild transmissions? If you do, where abouts do you operate from??

Just had my auto transmission reconditioned 2 weeks ago, after I lost 2nd & 4th. Was driving around for about a week with just 1st & 3rd. I had it done at Central Automatic Transmission Services (CATS) at Rosebery, and it cost $1500 plus GST.

Here is the link to my post about it, that shows what was actually done, parts etc.
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64869&page=2

Good luck.

Sounds good - $1500 for a drive in recon with warranty is quite reasonable. I'm going to wait until it gets worse though!

G'day Cybermonkey,
I do still rebuild transmissions, but only part time. I'm working up Hornsby way at Allstates Transmissions.
Just look them up to see where the closest one is to you. It's a bit hard to diagnose trans problems over the net as sometimes different people have different meanings for the terminology.ie- flaring, slipping, shuddering. They mean different things to different people. Here's a few more- jolting, thumping, banging, juddering, revving, screeching. People can get quite inventive lol.
The best thing to do is get someone to test drive it and work out what needs to be done. If you're in the Hornsby area, drop in and say hi. I'll be happy to help.

Cheers.

excellent, my folks live out west pennant hills way so i certainly know the area :) I am up there on the weekend, are you open saturdays?

i actually live down in Sutherland though and noticed there are a few closer by.

Sorry mate I'm only there on Monday's And Tuesday's. The workshop is open Monday to Friday. Unfortunately they don't open on Saturday morning. You might have to have a sickie and drive it up.

yeah i will see if i can take a holiday. Thanks!