Ok i know this topic has been thrashed, but i want feedback from people that actually have them or used them

So please post ONLY if you have or have used HID's

Please post pics of your lights also

Brand:
Wattage:
Colour Temp:

At this stage im leaning toward MARS YELLOW PACK, 35W, 6000k temp. Available on ebay, i've heard these are good quality kits.

The only other thing about these ebay kits which worries me is the price you need to pay to get a spare bulb. I do not think they will last the claimed time on the packet.
I have only helped a mate off here fix his as one was not working and yeah, they look fantastic...a really really nice color white. Was still not sold them though. Not for the price they are asking anyway.

Do you know how many 000k his were? Brand?

Do you know how many 000k his were?
6000K, very very nice colored light. Cannot say much else though as I have never personally used them so will not say yeah they suck etc etc. Some ebay brand.

Addict in tasmania has a set in his car very blueish light very bright not as good as i thought when i drove his car creates alot of side shadows they are 6000k

I got 55w Kits for the low beam n the foggies

Brand ??? Have no clue, its cheap stuff off ebay

and they are 10000K and im telling u i cant remember when the last time i used my high beam... they are awesome and they look good too :P
i had them for 6 or 7 months now n no drama at all


cheers

I got 55w Kits for the low beam n the foggies

Brand ??? Have no clue, its cheap stuff off ebay

and they are 10000K and im telling u i cant remember when the last time i used my high beam... they are awesome and they look good too :P
i had them for 6 or 7 months now n no drama at all


cheers

See they maybe better so the lower the number is more true light it gives or other way round??

']The only other thing about these ebay kits which worries me is the price you need to pay to get a spare bulb. I do not think they will last the claimed time on the packet.
I have only helped a mate off here fix his as one was not working and yeah, they look fantastic...a really really nice color white. Was still not sold them though. Not for the price they are asking anyway.

That mate would've been me. They're "Visional HID Conversion kit - 8000k"

The price isn't bad ($138 + $20 postage) and with the exception of the connectors supplied (ideally needs to be cut and soldered for reliability), the light output is fantastic but as mentioned in the FAQs unless you have a projector type lens or the Japanese type paras, the light projection or spread pattern will never be as good as stock headlights with say Vision Plus, Nightbreaker or Silverstar bulbs.

Just make sure you adjust your headlights properly.

That mate would've been me. They're "Visional HID Conversion kit - 8000k"

The price isn't bad ($138 + $20 postage) and with the exception of the connectors supplied (ideally needs to be cut and soldered for reliability), the light output is fantastic but as mentioned in the FAQs unless you have a projector type lens or the Japanese type paras, the light projection or spread pattern will never be as good as stock headlights with say Vision Plus, Nightbreaker or Silverstar bulbs.

Just make sure you adjust your headlights properly.

Awsome its good to hear some positive feedback on HID's for once, i have heard the parras don't project well but i figure poorly projected HID's will look better than poorly projected halogens. Im in it for the looks.

So you have 8000k aren't they really blueish? and do you have any pics?

haven't got any of them at night just yet, but when i go out tonight ill take a few.

I know it sounds stupid, but they look good during the day too :D

http://img516.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00200oh0.jpg

haven't got any of them at night just yet, but when i go out tonight ill take a few.

I know it sounds stupid, but they look good during the day too :D

http://img516.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00200oh0.jpg

Haha nice i drive with my lights on during the day, and thought hid's would look more cool.

Doesn't sound stupid too me :D

The higher the kelvin rating the lower the lumen output,so the more you move away from the 4300K temp,the less light you get,4300K is what the factory equiped car with HID uses as it as close to daylight as possible,10,000K are verging on purple (they will if the Kelvin raying is correct!),and have less lumens than 4300K by a good amount

So to cap

4300K,brightest ouput available in HID still with a crisp white light
10,000K and over,more for show than ouput

hope this helps
steve

Cheers stevo, thats what i've read. As im after a bit of a blue tinge i think i might go with the 6000's.

There is a set in the Ralliart I bought off Gorgath, and I would have to say they put out an awesome amount of light. It's about as good as using high beam and it's not that bright for oncomming traffic. I don't beleive they are leagle in our cars, so it's not a mod I would look at doing myself, but while I'm not getting in any trouble I'll leave it all there.

Yeah maybe if you see a cop just turn ya lights off :D

A warning for driving without your lights is probly better that a defect notice. :cool:

How many 000k are the ones in the ralliart by the way?

haven't got any of them at night just yet, but when i go out tonight ill take a few.

I know it sounds stupid, but they look good during the day too :D

http://img516.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00200oh0.jpg


They look sick!
But are they legal? They look very blue, and aren't HID kits a royal PITA to install?

I think apart from finding a place to mount the ballast's and running cable to your battery its easy as unplug - replug :D

I have 6000k HID's in my low beam in the Para's havent used my high beam since.
But i will be putting high beam hids in in a few months.

They are brilliant. no problems at all and no one has high beamed me yet.

Send Rob an email if youd like some.

rob@volatilecustoms.com

I have 6000k HID's in my low beam in the Para's havent used my high beam since.
But i will be putting high beam hids in in a few months.

They are brilliant. no problems at all and no one has high beamed me yet.

Send Rob an email if youd like some.

rob@volatilecustoms.com

Got any pics mate, also how much are they from Rob? who is he :D

Got my kit off seXI about 7 months ago and it's still going strong. I can say the HID has a better beam spread in the paras as compared to the normal halogen bulbs.

I have not had anyone flashed me yet except once this noob in a riced up commodore. This was after I lowered the beam height as the glare from the HID is pretty blinding. Looking to get 2 more sets though. 1 for the fogs and 1 for the high beams. Not sure if this will put any strain on the battery though.

Didn't have much trouble finding a spot to put the ballast though. Took me around 30 mins to install each side considering I had to take out the washer bottle, battery cover and squeeze my fat hands around the battery. A bit of strong double sided tape to keep it in place.

Brand: BOSCH
Watt: 55W
Colour: 6000k

I got 8,000k in aswell in my parras. I agree with above looks awesome even during the day. 8,000k is very blue, i was tempted to get 12000 (purple) but when i got my ones they were hard to get, now a lot easier. Ill post some pics tomorow.

Cheers

Quoted from the Magna Mods Headlight FAQ


Originally Posted by heathyoung
This FAQ is an answer to all of the questions that are asked regularly about Magna
headlamps. It is a collection of information relating to headlamp improvements, 'white/blue'
bulbs, HID kits and retrofits and legality of bulbs/modifications.

It is also a great resource to arm yourself with the knowledge to avoid spending your hard
earned money on junk - HID Kits, blue coated bulbs and the like, and spending it on worthwhile modifications.

Read the Background Information Links first, they are general headlamp articles, whereas I
will endevour to keep the FAQ as Magna-specific as possible.

I also DO NOT sell or work for anyone who makes headlamps, or bulbs or headlamp components, so these opinions are not a thinly veiled sales pitch (as some recent threads have become) which prompted the writing of this FAQ.

This information is as technically accurate as possible, with independent information from
multiple sources.


Background Information Links

These are off-site web pages that contain days worth of reading (at least) - all are technically accurate, and are very worthwhile reading.

Illegal and dangerous blue bulbs - mandatory reading for anyone looking at upgrading their headlamps. Why these bulbs mostly are marketing junk, with no real benefits.

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...e/bad/bad.html


Legal White Bulbs - 'E' marked bulbs - relates to Crystal Vision, Diamond Vision, Silverstar and Artic Blue - ADR/Legal bulbs that meet the requirements (+/- 15%) but are not neccesarily a better than standard.

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...good/good.html


Why HID kits dont work in the way you hope they would

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...nversions.html


An excellent article explaining (with pictures) why you DONT buy HID kits

http://www.intellexual.net/hid.html


The Headlamp FAQ - a Mecca for all people interested in headlamp upgrades/mods - bulbs, relays, HID kits (bleh!), HID retrofits (with the most comprehensive source of measurements for projectors etc around), and Hella 90mm projector info.

http://faqlight.carpassion.info/


HID Planet Forums - you need to join as a member, but this is the largest collection of people who have HID retrofitted cars on the planet.

http://www.hidplanet.com/forums


And now... without furthur ado... Onto the FAQ.


Q: My headlights are not bright enough - what things should I do first?

A: Clean the front of the lens, throw those headlamp protectors away (they reduce your output by up to 15%) and fit something like the 3M self adhesive lens protectors if you
must, get them levelled properly!

If you have bulbs that are original, change them if over 50,000Klms. Inspect the reflector and lens, if the lens is badly pitted with stone chips, or the reflector is white and/or cloudy - time to get some new ones. You can buy new OEM lenses and clean reflectors.

If you are buying new headlamp assemblies, watch out for crash repair parts - some are of
very poor quality, but look OK - they are a cheap way out for smash repair places to provide
a competitive quote. There was a batch of really bad EL falcon crash repair lamps that the
lenses went almost opaque on in a year! There is a reason to buy OEM.


Q: I have heard that the bulbs should be changed every year - mine are the original bulbs
and have never blown yet - why do I need to change them?

A: You need to change your bulbs every year because their output drops over time (even though they still work. The reason why is that the halogen cycle that keeps the bulb
filament from depositing onto the glass from the heat works by causing the filament material
(tungsten) to deposit back onto the filament.

But the deposits are not uniform - they appear crystaline, and you end up with thicker and thinner filament sections that are brighter and dimmer. Look at the difference between a bulb that is old and one that is new and the difference is very visible.

Your other bulbs (tail lamps, parkers, number plate lamp etc.) go black due to the filament
material depositing on the glass - this reduces the light output both by making the glass
opaque (old bulbs go like a chrome mirror finish on the inside of the glass). These should
also be inspected from time to time.


Q: What bulbs should I buy for the best legal lighting (best output).

A: I recommend Philips Bulbs in the Vision Plus range and Osram Silverstars. The reasons for this are simple:

Correct filament geometry - the filament is in the correct place, a major issue in cheap
off-brand bulbs, messing up the beam pattern.

Higher efficiency - they use a thinner filament, at a higher temperature, in Xenon gas, which produces more light, and less heat for the same electrical input.

Completely legal - 'E' marked (E code relates to ECE, on which our ADR's are word for word -
an E mark is a capital E followed by a number, both in a circle. The number relates to the
country in which they were approved. 1 is Germany, and is very common for Hella parts.

UV Cut - Very important for polycarbonate lenses, as the UV content will cause the lens to
prematurely yellow, and reflectors don't go cloudy.

Stock wattage, so no problems with overheating the connectors and wiring.

The Philips are not much 'whiter' than the standard bulbs though, the Osrams are.


Q: What about 'overwattage' bulbs?

A: Overwattage bulbs, are as the name suggests, higher than OEM (and ADR compliant) wattages. There are Philips 80/100W H4 bulbs, Philips 100W H1 bulbs and Philips 80W H7 bulbs - These are the Philips Rally series. They are designed (as the name suggests) for offroad competition.

Their output is truly amazing compared to stock bulbs, and all aftermarket overwatt bulbs (including PIAA, Raybrig etc).

They do have a downside - if you just stick overwattage bulbs in the standard harness, they will still work, but because of the voltage drop of the stock wiring, the bulbs are
performing only at 75% of their capacity. They *must* be run with relays to get the best out of them.

Another downside is the heat that they generate - the stock headlamp connectors can only
take it for so long before they melt onto the bulbs.

These bulbs are NOT legal - no E markings. They are not recommended for polycarbonate lensed headlamps (eg. 1 piece parabolics) due to the UV created (they are not all UV cut).

Lifetime on these overwattage bulbs is short - under 100 hours.


Q: What is so bad about those Ebay overwattage/blue bulbs?

A: Filament geometry is often off (messes up your beam pattern), they also have a tendancy to just create more heat (but about 10-20% more light) than properly manufactured overwatt bulbs, EXTREMELY short life - less than 10 hours has been measured on some of these off-brand bulbs.

The coatings on the (blue) bulbs also have been known to outgas as they are heated, and fog your reflector with a coating of unremovable crap that reduces your light output. They also have been known to explode for no good reason, and it is a pain to get all of the glass
fragments out of the headlamp.


Q: I want white bulbs - what should I buy?

A: Since you have already read the articles about blue bulbs (if you haven't, I suggest you do) in the background links sections, you understand that there are a lot of very useless bulbs around.

For the best (white) bulbs around, I recommend Philips or Osram. At the lower end of
the scale, there are the Blue Vision bulbs. These are quite a bit whiter than their vision
Plus range, but they do not produce as much light (about stock output). Moving up the scale, there is the Crystal Vision, which is a white light, again, a little better than stock
brightness, and at the top of the range, Diamond Vision - about as bright as the Vision Plus. But they are quite pricey.

Osram SilverStars are also an excellent performing bulb, cheaper than the Philips, but as
good (and some say better). They are an uncoated (very big ticks for this) bulb, with a good lifetime and dependable filament geometry.

For other brands, there is the Narva Arctic blue, which is quite cheap, and is stock
brightness - but don't expect a major difference here.


Q: My white bulbs look great, but my parkers look a horrible yellow - what can I do?

A: Philips make some ADR legal 'Blue Vision' parker bulbs. Bulbs style is H6W.

Cont....


This FAQ is an answer to all of the questions that are asked regularly about Magna
headlamps. It is a collection of information relating to headlamp improvements, 'white/blue'
bulbs, HID kits and retrofits and legality of bulbs/modifications.

It is also a great resource to arm yourself with the knowledge to avoid spending your hard
earned money on junk - HID Kits, blue coated bulbs and the like, and spending it on worthwhile modifications.

Read the Background Information Links first, they are general headlamp articles, whereas I
will endevour to keep the FAQ as Magna-specific as possible.

I also DO NOT sell or work for anyone who makes headlamps, or bulbs or headlamp components, so these opinions are not a thinly veiled sales pitch (as some recent threads have become) which prompted the writing of this FAQ.

This information is as technically accurate as possible, with independent information from
multiple sources.


Background Information Links

These are off-site web pages that contain days worth of reading (at least) - all are technically accurate, and are very worthwhile reading.

Illegal and dangerous blue bulbs - mandatory reading for anyone looking at upgrading their headlamps. Why these bulbs mostly are marketing junk, with no real benefits.

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...e/bad/bad.html


Legal White Bulbs - 'E' marked bulbs - relates to Crystal Vision, Diamond Vision, Silverstar and Artic Blue - ADR/Legal bulbs that meet the requirements (+/- 15%) but are not neccesarily a better than standard.

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...good/good.html


Why HID kits dont work in the way you hope they would

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...nversions.html


An excellent article explaining (with pictures) why you DONT buy HID kits

http://www.intellexual.net/hid.html


The Headlamp FAQ - a Mecca for all people interested in headlamp upgrades/mods - bulbs, relays, HID kits (bleh!), HID retrofits (with the most comprehensive source of measurements for projectors etc around), and Hella 90mm projector info.

http://faqlight.carpassion.info/


HID Planet Forums - you need to join as a member, but this is the largest collection of people who have HID retrofitted cars on the planet.

http://www.hidplanet.com/forums


And now... without furthur ado... Onto the FAQ.


Q: My headlights are not bright enough - what things should I do first?

A: Clean the front of the lens, throw those headlamp protectors away (they reduce your output by up to 15%) and fit something like the 3M self adhesive lens protectors if you
must, get them levelled properly!

If you have bulbs that are original, change them if over 50,000Klms. Inspect the reflector and lens, if the lens is badly pitted with stone chips, or the reflector is white and/or cloudy - time to get some new ones. You can buy new OEM lenses and clean reflectors.

If you are buying new headlamp assemblies, watch out for crash repair parts - some are of
very poor quality, but look OK - they are a cheap way out for smash repair places to provide
a competitive quote. There was a batch of really bad EL falcon crash repair lamps that the
lenses went almost opaque on in a year! There is a reason to buy OEM.


Q: I have heard that the bulbs should be changed every year - mine are the original bulbs
and have never blown yet - why do I need to change them?

A: You need to change your bulbs every year because their output drops over time (even though they still work. The reason why is that the halogen cycle that keeps the bulb
filament from depositing onto the glass from the heat works by causing the filament material
(tungsten) to deposit back onto the filament.

But the deposits are not uniform - they appear crystaline, and you end up with thicker and thinner filament sections that are brighter and dimmer. Look at the difference between a bulb that is old and one that is new and the difference is very visible.

Your other bulbs (tail lamps, parkers, number plate lamp etc.) go black due to the filament
material depositing on the glass - this reduces the light output both by making the glass
opaque (old bulbs go like a chrome mirror finish on the inside of the glass). These should
also be inspected from time to time.


Q: What bulbs should I buy for the best legal lighting (best output).

A: I recommend Philips Bulbs in the Vision Plus range and Osram Silverstars. The reasons for this are simple:

Correct filament geometry - the filament is in the correct place, a major issue in cheap
off-brand bulbs, messing up the beam pattern.

Higher efficiency - they use a thinner filament, at a higher temperature, in Xenon gas, which produces more light, and less heat for the same electrical input.

Completely legal - 'E' marked (E code relates to ECE, on which our ADR's are word for word -
an E mark is a capital E followed by a number, both in a circle. The number relates to the
country in which they were approved. 1 is Germany, and is very common for Hella parts.

UV Cut - Very important for polycarbonate lenses, as the UV content will cause the lens to
prematurely yellow, and reflectors don't go cloudy.

Stock wattage, so no problems with overheating the connectors and wiring.

The Philips are not much 'whiter' than the standard bulbs though, the Osrams are.


Q: What about 'overwattage' bulbs?

A: Overwattage bulbs, are as the name suggests, higher than OEM (and ADR compliant) wattages. There are Philips 80/100W H4 bulbs, Philips 100W H1 bulbs and Philips 80W H7 bulbs - These are the Philips Rally series. They are designed (as the name suggests) for offroad competition.

Their output is truly amazing compared to stock bulbs, and all aftermarket overwatt bulbs (including PIAA, Raybrig etc).

They do have a downside - if you just stick overwattage bulbs in the standard harness, they will still work, but because of the voltage drop of the stock wiring, the bulbs are
performing only at 75% of their capacity. They *must* be run with relays to get the best out of them.

Another downside is the heat that they generate - the stock headlamp connectors can only
take it for so long before they melt onto the bulbs.

These bulbs are NOT legal - no E markings. They are not recommended for polycarbonate lensed headlamps (eg. 1 piece parabolics) due to the UV created (they are not all UV cut).

Lifetime on these overwattage bulbs is short - under 100 hours.


Q: What is so bad about those Ebay overwattage/blue bulbs?

A: Filament geometry is often off (messes up your beam pattern), they also have a tendancy to just create more heat (but about 10-20% more light) than properly manufactured overwatt bulbs, EXTREMELY short life - less than 10 hours has been measured on some of these off-brand bulbs.

The coatings on the (blue) bulbs also have been known to outgas as they are heated, and fog your reflector with a coating of unremovable crap that reduces your light output. They also have been known to explode for no good reason, and it is a pain to get all of the glass
fragments out of the headlamp.


Q: I want white bulbs - what should I buy?

A: Since you have already read the articles about blue bulbs (if you haven't, I suggest you do) in the background links sections, you understand that there are a lot of very useless bulbs around.

For the best (white) bulbs around, I recommend Philips or Osram. At the lower end of
the scale, there are the Blue Vision bulbs. These are quite a bit whiter than their vision
Plus range, but they do not produce as much light (about stock output). Moving up the scale, there is the Crystal Vision, which is a white light, again, a little better than stock
brightness, and at the top of the range, Diamond Vision - about as bright as the Vision Plus. But they are quite pricey.

Osram SilverStars are also an excellent performing bulb, cheaper than the Philips, but as
good (and some say better). They are an uncoated (very big ticks for this) bulb, with a good lifetime and dependable filament geometry.

For other brands, there is the Narva Arctic blue, which is quite cheap, and is stock
brightness - but don't expect a major difference here.


Q: My white bulbs look great, but my parkers look a horrible yellow - what can I do?

A: Philips make some ADR legal 'Blue Vision' parker bulbs. Bulbs style is H6W.
Last edited by s_tim_ulate : 14-03-2008 at 12:36 AM.
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s_tim_ulate
Old 14-03-2008, 12:35 AM #2
s_tim_ulate

Posts: n/a

Default
Cont.
Quote:
Originally Posted by heathyoung
Q: But I want BLUE bulbs:

A: Go and read the background information links, ricer! Blue is bad hmmmkayy...


Q: OK - I already have Vision Plus or Osram Silverstars in my headlamps, they are aimed
properly, clean, and there are no headlamp protectors - but I want more light. What can I
do?

A: Fit relays + wiring harness - these reduce the voltage drop in your wiring, giving all of the battery voltage to the bulbs that they can get.

Read more here: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...ys/relays.html

This should also be done in conjunction with fitting new, quality, glass filled Phenolic plastic headlamp connectors (they don't melt), and cleaning up all of the connections.

This also allows you (in the future, if this isn't enough) to upgrade to overwattage bulbs
if you so desire.

Q: What about these mysterious black boxes that supposedly make your headlamps 150% brighter?

A: Was once sold as a Catz Zeta (amongst other things). These are DC to DC converters, that take the 12V or so that would normally be fed into your headlamps, and convert it up to 16V. Makes the headlamps a great deal brighter and whiter but exponentially decreases their life. Can also cause overheating of your wiring and connectors.

Of marginal use (especially considering the lifetime reduction of the bulbs) causes bulbs overheat and distort (have seen bulbs get bulging 'pimples' on the sides) and even crack and explode.

You would be better off with relays.


Q: I have a 3rd Generation Executive, and I want to fit the parabolic headlamps to get
better lighting - would these help?

A: NO, NO, NO! The parabolic headlamps are a very poor design, basically designed for the
export market (they are a flat beam cutoff, so they are usable for LHD/RHD). They are
manufactured by Stanley (the standard executive headlamps are manufactured by Hella).

The parabolics also are not 'E' marked - so are technically very shady under our ADR's. They
are DOT reflectors, so the pattern is very poor, with very bright foreground lighting
(giving the illusion of better lighting, but actually reducing your long distance vision)
and giving a wide angle dispersion of light for the high beam - which also is very poor for
long distance vision.

The executive headlamps on the other hand, have excellent long distance high beams, and are ideal for highway/night driving.

The second generation parabolics are a true complex corner reflector, and are excellent. I
would be interested to know if they could be shoehorned into a 3rd gen. (Havn't tried yet).


Q: What about a HID kit?

A: Read the background information links on HID first to get some information. I can speak from personal experience with HID kits (and retrofits, which I will explain later) in 3rd
Gen headlamps.

OK - while you can get a HID capsule to work OK in a Magna Executive headlamp, it isn't as
simple as just throwing a plug and play kit into it. All of the kits I tried had insufficient shielding, and caused excessive glare to oncoming drivers (a lot of people flashed high beams)

As an experiment, I used two Philips 4300K D2S bulbs (3200 lumens), two Hella Gen 3
ballasts, some modified Casper's electronics Billet Aluminium shields (very well designed
and made) painted matt black, and fitted with a nose shield (to shield oncoming drivers from
looking at the bulb) it produced an acceptable beam pattern on the wall (no glare) and a
beam pattern with a lot of hotspots.

Properly aimed, it was not glaring to other drivers, but the amount of shielding required to
produce a safe(ish) beam meant that a lot of the output of the bulb was lost, meaning that
the increase in output was not at all worth the effort.

Apart from the colour, its output level was indistinguishable from a Philips Rally overwatt bulbs, with relay, and the beam pattern from the Philips Rally was better, not to mention the fact that you still have two
high beam filaments!

And for those with parabolic headlamps - a H7 kit does not fit. The return wire (at up to
25,000V potential) touches the glare shield. First time you power the bulbs up, you risk a
fire at worst, and blowing your $500+ HID kit at best.

Not recommended - don't waste your money, especially on a high kelvin (>5000K kit).


Q: Whats this about a HID retrofit?

A: A HID retrofit takes all of the parts out of a car with OEM xenon (in the magnas case, an Audi TT or BMW 3 Series E46) including the reflector/shield/lens assembly (a projector), bulb and ballast, and mounting it in place of the OEM magna headlamp reflector.

This is a time consuming and quite frustrating procedure, and must be done with great care
so that there is not glare produced for other drivers, and that the headlamp can still be
aimed, and is level. It can be done with 3rd generation Parabolics, either single piece
(polycarb lens) or two piece.

The result is that they are almost indistinguishable from standard headlamps when off, with
the same beam pattern and intensity as the donor vehicle when on.

They are illegal, because they remove the parking bulb and there is no headlamp washers.

Possibly the best lighting you could ever get on the magna, especially if using the Bosch Bixenon modules (which use xenon for both low and high beam, and work by using a solenoid to move the shield, thus moving the pattern).


Q: What about custom headlamps with Hella 90mm headlamp modules?

A: Costly, but doable, and possibly (depending on your RTA engineering signatory) ADR compliant. This involves creating a totally custom headlamp, keeping only the directional indicators. Even more complicated and expensive than a HID retrofit, if you are keen, it can be done.

The limitations of this are the bulbs that can be used - the low and high beam reflectors are both H7, and designed for both 12 and 24V - the highest wattage from this would be about 80W for the lowbeam (as they use a plastic housing) and 100W for the highbeam (as they use an all metal housing).

This is the best lighting you could ever fit (legally) to a Magna.

Q: What bulbs does Mitsu use and where?

A:
Standard headlamp high beam - H4 55/60W
Standard headlamp low beam - H1 55W
Driving lights - H3 55W (They are actually Foglamps)
Parking lights - H5W (5W)
Parabolic headlamp high beam - H1 55W
Parabolic headlamp low beam - H7 55W
Verada driving lights - H3 55W
Parabolic parking lights - Errr... Good question - I'll have a look. 5W

************************************************** ********

Please feel free to ask any more questions that you feel need to be added to the FAQ!

Cheers
Heath Young

(edit Tim: Updated with Globes...)

There you go a Definitive answer to the age old question.

Also from the thread http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57256

Which im sure you guys looked for of course

He asked for real opinions from people who have them...

I read all that before i got mine and didnt for quite a while... then i went **** it and put them in and i have NO regrets. They are briliant in Parabolic headlights

i used to have 6000k HID's in my TF, thats with paras. I had them in for about 8 months before i took them out, as the magna is now dads. all that time i never got flashed once, nor did cops pull me over. 6000k HID's are pretty much white. if you go 8000k its got more of a blue tinge in them and will probly get more attention from the authorities. i had a normal set of globes in the paras before i put the HID's and the light output wasnt all that good. If i were you mate i would put em in. as hlucin8 said...they actually are brilliant in paras.

There you go a Definitive answer to the age old question.

Also from the thread http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57256

Which im sure you guys looked for of course

Thanks buddy and yes i have read all that before, but it seems the feedback from people that actually have them is quite good. This is why i asked for comments only from people that actually have them, so i don't get people like you linking to a bunch of old threads.

Thanks buddy and yes i have read all that before, but it seems the feedback from people that actually have them is quite good. This is why i asked for comments only from people that actually have them, so i don't get people like you linking to a bunch of old threads.

If you are going to buy a product based purely on peoples responses and not actually seeing it first then that is rather silly, all HID's do is give more light, but also create a lot more hotspots and shadows, even a member with HID's has said that.

If you still want HID's dont go with the cheapie bolt in kit, do it correct with a set of E series projectors and bosch ballasts, Heathyoung has a set in his car atm and the beam is perfect, no hotspots etc as its a projector style lens and bulb system.

In essence you are pretty much paying for something that looks cool to the "beholder" yet doesnt increase lighting performance and increases your risk of getting pulled up, flashed etc. (alot of people might not get flashed as there car is lowered hence the beam is aimed lower then the persons viewing height as well)

If you are going to buy a product based purely on peoples responses and not actually seeing it first then that is rather silly, all HID's do is give more light, but also create a lot more hotspots and shadows, even a member with HID's has said that.

If you still want HID's dont go with the cheapie bolt in kit, do it correct with a set of E series projectors and bosch ballasts, Heathyoung has a set in his car atm and the beam is perfect, no hotspots etc as its a projector style lens and bulb system.

In essence you are pretty much paying for something that looks cool to the "beholder" yet doesnt increase lighting performance and increases your risk of getting pulled up, flashed etc. (alot of people might not get flashed as there car is lowered hence the beam is aimed lower then the persons viewing height as well)

I have chatted to heath on the subject, i could imagine setting up what he hid would be expensive.

Also what are E sreies projectors? Beemer is it?

You guys are the ones who blind me from infront and from behind with your poor aftermarket HID kits. I hate those bloody things!

You guys are the ones who blind me from infront and from behind with your poor aftermarket HID kits. I hate those bloody things!

I dont wanna annoy people if i get some, they should be right if adjusted down shouldn't they.

I dont wanna annoy people if i get some, they should be right if adjusted down shouldn't they.
It's good to see consideration of other motorists!
The number of drivers driving the streets running low beams plus crappy fog lights with high dazzling spill just amazes me.
I believe there is a roadworthiness specification of how the low-beams must be aimed. Despite this, one other factor - do you tow anything using a standard hitch?

I have faced my ones all the way down, they will never blind any one.

I got my parras long after i got my car, my old standard headlighs also had HIDs.

If you are saying that normal light bulb is better, im telling you its not. I would never go back to using normal non HID globes.

I got 10,000K 55w HIDs, they are awesome, but I have been flashed many times and I can't really point them down or they become useless...

HID vs Hallogen :)
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp271/db_newman/Life/18122008.jpg

On their own
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp271/db_newman/Life/21122008047.jpg

So you would rather piss off other motorists, have an illegal mod on your car, and think you're "cool" rather than do the right thing? :nuts:

I use them extensively in my rally cars, the brightest is the 55w 6000K version. I have them in my Cibie Super Oscars and my Hella 4,000 Rallye. Does turn night into day no doubt. However, I do not use the cheap ebay ones, I only use Phillips as they don't get dimmer after 10 hours of use. Most the ebay ones other competitors use are very unreliable. As for using them in my magna I have only converted the high beam as the Hi/Lo conversion is illegal reason being for HID to be legal the light fitting needs to be self-leveling and washing the cheapest total conversion would probably to get something from a BMW through the wreckers, other than that I'm not sure how it can be done. Might be a market in trade with the US Gallant as I believe the 2009 model has a HID option. If you are caught using a HID in your Hi/Lo the car will get a canary in Vic. and yes those that have them are easily identified as they are dazzling other drivers.

So you would rather piss off other motorists, have an illegal mod on your car, and think you're "cool" rather than do the right thing? :nuts:

It can't be that bad, I have passed around 30-40 cops since I put them in...

I got 10,000K 55w HIDs, they are awesome, but I have been flashed many times and I can't really point them down or they become useless...


mate i got the same setup as urs and never been flashed at all :P im sure u can do sumfin about it :D

All these people with HIDs in their Paras who are aligning their lights all the way down, doesn't this defeat the purpose of having a good spread of light at night? Or do you guys find this is not the case with HIDs? Also, doesn't the high beam alignment work in conjunction with the low beam?

All these people with HIDs in their Paras who are aligning their lights all the way down, doesn't this defeat the purpose of having a good spread of light at night? Or do you guys find this is not the case with HIDs? Also, doesn't the high beam alignment work in conjunction with the low beam?
That's what I thought. But I knew all this before-hand anyway and one reason why I'll never get HID's
Or as my mate likes to call them "Asian-Vision"
As cool as they do look the glare is terrible.
And I still reckon side by side HID's vs some upgraded bulbs the upgraded bulbs will win.

']That's what I thought. But I knew all this before-hand anyway and one reason why I'll never get HID's

And I still reckon side by side HID's vs some upgraded bulbs the upgraded bulbs will win.

Side by side the HIDS win every time, I upgraded the Magna Hi/Lo to Phillips + 80% as well as a Piranha Light loom for a WRX and the Hi Beam is HID the HID Hi is at least 50% brighter than the Phillips + 80% Hi Beam. I took some snaps of the rally car before and after I'll post when I find them.

Yeah maybe if you see a cop just turn ya lights off :D

A warning for driving without your lights is probly better that a defect notice. :cool:

How many 000k are the ones in the ralliart by the way?

You would have to pm Gorgath to find out, as its the way I bought it. We were both out last night so I paid alot of attention to how bright they were while she was following me and it looked no brighter than any other car in the revision mirror.

I find it amusing that people who dont have or ever had HIDs comment that they are not good.

When you face then down its still much better coverage then your standard globe & thats simply it. I know casue i can see the difference from before. NO matter what (things like hot spots) they still give much MUCH better illumination & its not just about the looks.

The only reasonable arguement in favour of standard globe is that they are legal while HIDs are not, BUT THATS ABOUT IT.

In every other aspect HIDs are simply better option.

I find it amusing that people who dont have or ever had HIDs comment that they are not good.

When you face then down its still much better coverage then your standard globe & thats simply it. I know casue i can see the difference from before. NO matter what (things like hot spots) they still give much MUCH better illumination & its not just about the looks.

The only reasonable arguement in favour of standard globe is that they are legal while HIDs are not, BUT THATS ABOUT IT.

In every other aspect HIDs are simply better option.
Not sure if this is directed at me due to my previous post but I never said HIDs were bad. I was questioning whether pointing the headlights all the way down like so many people in this thread say they do to reduce glare for other drivers is such a good thing? As far as i know the alignment for high beam is dependent on low beam so if your low beam is pointed low, so will your high beam be, making it not as effective. If i am wrong i'm sure someone will correct me.

And yes i have driven many hours at night in a factory HID equipped car (my dad's Toyota Aurion Presara) and it has the most amazing headlights i've ever seen. But this is due to it being a self levelling projector design and being made to work as HID from scratch. I have also been in a friends car which has aftermarket HID globes/ballasts and it was truly shocking. Things could be different with 3rd Gen Paras but i couldn't comment on it until i've been in a car with some.

I find it amusing that people who dont have or ever had HIDs comment that they are not good.

When you face then down its still much better coverage then your standard globe & thats simply it. I know casue i can see the difference from before. NO matter what (things like hot spots) they still give much MUCH better illumination & its not just about the looks.

The only reasonable arguement in favour of standard globe is that they are legal while HIDs are not, BUT THATS ABOUT IT.

In every other aspect HIDs are simply better option.
Umm...no there not.
They piss other people off, and cost an arm and a leg to do so.
As provided with those links above...check out the HID retrofits compared to the basic HID aftermarket kts...I think that explains it all.

All these people with HIDs in their Paras who are aligning their lights all the way down, doesn't this defeat the purpose of having a good spread of light at night? Or do you guys find this is not the case with HIDs? Also, doesn't the high beam alignment work in conjunction with the low beam?

I have not adjusted my beams since putting in the hids and have had no issues.

The last thursday night cruise i went on i was following Ash and i asked him if they were bright? his response, you werent behind me were you?

He wasn't aware who was behind him so obviously there not that bad or he would have know it was me and not another member

']Umm...no there not.
They piss other people off, and cost an arm and a leg to do so.
As provided with those links above...check out the HID retrofits compared to the basic HID aftermarket kts...I think that explains it all.

The ones i was looking at were about $180 delivered, and they are good quality kits. The reason i started looking at them is because i priced Phillips crystal vision or whatever and they where about $170 at autobarn, Just for halogens.

So compared to the Phillips the price isn't that bad.

The problem I see with these HID kits being put into Magna's is the legalities of them and being picked up on it. Fair enough people can say your never going to get picked up for them, but thats only if they're not an obvious issue.

Haven't driven with Nemesis a few times since he's got his in, I must admit the light provided and the look of them is fantastic. However, even with them incorrectly adjusted too low as they are at the moment, in a rear view mirror they appear exactly the same as someone driving along behind with high beams fitted, so I can only imagine what they'll be like when they're adjusted up how they're supposed to be. I honestly can see it being only a matter of time before you get picked up with them.

My suggestion for a great light combo is Phillips +80's Halogen H4s same wattage as standard heaps better light, heavy duty wires, plug and relay to the lights as standard are way inadequate use standard wires to switch relays. For Hi beam use Phillips HID perfectly legal. That will turn night into day. Oh and use those great Verada headlight units.

']That's what I thought. But I knew all this before-hand anyway and one reason why I'll never get HID's
Or as my mate likes to call them "Asian-Vision"
As cool as they do look the glare is terrible.
And I still reckon side by side HID's vs some upgraded bulbs the upgraded bulbs will win.

while your right about the glare,a HID globe will 99% of the time have more lumens than a upgraded bulbs from the specs i see

hey mate, apart from everyone going boo hoo hid's arn't ment to be used bla bla bla....

I run in my parra's

headlight 35w H7 6000k
fog lights - 35w H3 6000k
high beam - 55w H1 6000k

mate i tell you now with all of those bad boys on i can flag down a plane.....

all ebay kits.. i've had them installed for a bit over a year, not even a hint of a drama...

and sedatley driving around with just the headlights on it doesn't bother anyone.. i never get flashed, or beeped at.. no police trouble etc etc.. it lights up the foot path just as good as the normal halogans did when in in the suburbs..

only reason i mention that is for the HID nazi's out there.. they are fine in parra's i vouch for this myself.. they don't seem to throw light everywhere.. in fact most modern cars i've seen that have them fitted they seem to be quite good at aiming the light.. older cars like an AE82 corolla on the other hand.. just kinda looks like there driving through a blueish white haze in front of the car...

in short.. i love them.. especially at 3am driving down the M1 from the gold coast to brissy.. i swear i light up at least 4-500M ahead!! (with the highbeams on)

I have had HID's installed for a little over a year after collecting a roo using the standard lights. Before the HID's I tried several combination's of globes etc without much luck of improving the lights.

They are the ones off ebay $180 odd delivered i think, 6000k 35w in the lows.
I have never been flashed by anyone else and been pulled over for RBT's on many occasion with no consequence.

exactly.. as long as you choose a sensible colour temp.. anything above 8000k is too much i reckon..

you can still get 4300k if you want.. which is like a narva 'arctic' blue light sorta colour.. but still quite yellow next to a 6k..

55w's are just insane and should not be used unless in a high beam or a spot/flood light..

hey mate, apart from everyone going boo hoo hid's arn't ment to be used bla bla bla....

I run in my parra's

headlight 35w H7 6000k
fog lights - 35w H3 6000k
high beam - 55w H1 6000k

mate i tell you now with all of those bad boys on i can flag down a plane.....

all ebay kits.. i've had them installed for a bit over a year, not even a hint of a drama...

and sedatley driving around with just the headlights on it doesn't bother anyone.. i never get flashed, or beeped at.. no police trouble etc etc.. it lights up the foot path just as good as the normal halogans did when in in the suburbs..

only reason i mention that is for the HID nazi's out there.. they are fine in parra's i vouch for this myself.. they don't seem to throw light everywhere.. in fact most modern cars i've seen that have them fitted they seem to be quite good at aiming the light.. older cars like an AE82 corolla on the other hand.. just kinda looks like there driving through a blueish white haze in front of the car...

in short.. i love them.. especially at 3am driving down the M1 from the gold coast to brissy.. i swear i light up at least 4-500M ahead!! (with the highbeams on)

So yours are a cheap set from Hong Kong or something are they? are the 6000's very blue looking?

yep.. $110au landed for the first 2 sets.. (bought H7's and H3's first up).. then i bought the H1's for the hi-beams 55w those are insane though..

i saved a bit on packaging.. the H1's set me back about $80.. that was when our dollar was really ****..

6000k are white. 8000k are blue/white.. but still very white..

only pic at night i have at work to give you an example..

http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/1513/20ban0.jpg

those are the 6000k's..

The problem I see with these HID kits being put into Magna's is the legalities of them and being picked up on it. Fair enough people can say your never going to get picked up for them, but thats only if they're not an obvious issue.

Haven't driven with Nemesis a few times since he's got his in, I must admit the light provided and the look of them is fantastic. However, even with them incorrectly adjusted too low as they are at the moment, in a rear view mirror they appear exactly the same as someone driving along behind with high beams fitted, so I can only imagine what they'll be like when they're adjusted up how they're supposed to be. I honestly can see it being only a matter of time before you get picked up with them.

Dude on Saturday night they were adjusted aligned properly.

yep.. $110au landed for the first 2 sets.. (bought H7's and H3's first up).. then i bought the H1's for the hi-beams 55w those are insane though..

i saved a bit on packaging.. the H1's set me back about $80.. that was when our dollar was really ****..

6000k are white. 8000k are blue/white.. but still very white..

only pic at night i have at work to give you an example..

http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/1513/20ban0.jpg

those are the 6000k's..

They look really nice i think, nice and clear white. I think i made up my mind i was thinking of going the exact same combo as yours matty before i read this. Now im convinced.

Cheers for all the pics and help guys.

According to heath's comments, H7 kits do not fit in parras. As the return wire hits or gets close to the globe cover thing.
I bought philips 6000k H7 kit and noticed that the left side touches it, as I can see the scratches on the inside of the cover.

Anyways, have anyone done anything so that this doesnt happen? I know i could take the whole headlight assembly apart and remove those things. But then the globe will be fully exposed from front vision.

So, has anyone put like a huge washer between the globe and the headlight assembly, to make the globe stick out the back by a couple of mm? Just so the return wire doesn't touch the assembly or is far away enough?


Just curious what others have done. Sux you cannot get bulbs where the ceramic doesn't cover the whole damn return wire.

According to heath's comments, H7 kits do not fit in parras. As the return wire hits or gets close to the globe cover thing.
I bought philips 6000k H7 kit and noticed that the left side touches it, as I can see the scratches on the inside of the cover.

Anyways, have anyone done anything so that this doesnt happen? I know i could take the whole headlight assembly apart and remove those things. But then the globe will be fully exposed from front vision.

So, has anyone put like a huge washer between the globe and the headlight assembly, to make the globe stick out the back by a couple of mm? Just so the return wire doesn't touch the assembly or is far away enough?


From the mouth (sorta) of Matty.C in a PM when we were discussing these:

the low beams were a bit trickey.. what i did was just machine up some spacers in the lathe, but you could just use a couple of right size washers.. then just nip a bit out with the grinder to pull the wires to.. so you have like a C shape, but the gap is only quite small for the wires.. you will see why you need to do this when you go to put the bulbs in..

i supply and install HID kits at work... 4300 - 6000k are the best for visibility... i wouldnt fit them to a freeform or projector headlight as they produce alot of glare even when adjusted down

they work very well on the standard headlight (quality Hella)

we stock the phillips range of HID Kits as the ballasts and igniters are the same as many of the OEM units and as such dont give the dramas of cheap taiwanese kits

it is imperative that the headlights be focused down 2 degrees to combat glare..and it is best to use a focusing machine as opposed to a line on a wall

the only thing that makes the mod illegal is the fact that that a 25c or 50c headlight washing system needs to be installed... and its debatable whether or not in-cab adjustment is required as many oem cars dont have that feature.

but largely it is due to the fact that the 4th ed. ADR's are long overdue

personally the prospect of downgrading to Halogens makes me sick to the stomach..... soo sooo primative
...oh and yeah poorly installed cheap kits in freeform reflectors that sucks too!

i supply and install HID kits at work... 4300 - 6000k are the best for visibility... i wouldnt fit them to a freeform or projector headlight as they produce alot of glare even when adjusted down

they work very well on the standard headlight (quality Hella)

we stock the phillips range of HID Kits as the ballasts and igniters are the same as many of the OEM units and as such dont give the dramas of cheap taiwanese kits

it is imperative that the headlights be focused down 2 degrees to combat glare..and it is best to use a focusing machine as opposed to a line on a wall

the only thing that makes the mod illegal is the fact that that a 25c or 50c headlight washing system needs to be installed... and its debatable whether or not in-cab adjustment is required as many oem cars dont have that feature.

but largely it is due to the fact that the 4th ed. ADR's are long overdue

personally the prospect of downgrading to Halogens makes me sick to the stomach..... soo sooo primative
...oh and yeah poorly installed cheap kits in freeform reflectors that sucks too!

And what do your Philips kits sell for?

I know someone who built custom headlights using honda s2000 projectors, and a random bosch ballast set from somewhere. It was retrofitted to camry sportivo headlights. I think it turned out okay, had some issues with aiming them though. Other than that, unless you are able to get the parts for cheap, I'm not sure if it's really worth the hassle of purchasing an aftermarket hid kit to retrofit to your car. Once again, those gay $20 ebay blue bulbs are very annoying, esp if they are aimed very high.

i supply and install HID kits at work... 4300 - 6000k are the best for visibility... i wouldnt fit them to a freeform or projector headlight as they produce alot of glare even when adjusted down

they work very well on the standard headlight (quality Hella)

we stock the phillips range of HID Kits as the ballasts and igniters are the same as many of the OEM units and as such dont give the dramas of cheap taiwanese kits

it is imperative that the headlights be focused down 2 degrees to combat glare..and it is best to use a focusing machine as opposed to a line on a wall

the only thing that makes the mod illegal is the fact that that a 25c or 50c headlight washing system needs to be installed... and its debatable whether or not in-cab adjustment is required as many oem cars dont have that feature.

but largely it is due to the fact that the 4th ed. ADR's are long overdue

personally the prospect of downgrading to Halogens makes me sick to the stomach..... soo sooo primative
...oh and yeah poorly installed cheap kits in freeform reflectors that sucks too!

Hi mate
So you have installed the HIDs into a parrabolic headlight? If so, any dramas with the return wires touching the bulb cover?

the ground wire is always gonna be a problem on the para's and the only real way to overcome the arcing is to bend the shield forward a little bit (at risk of damaging headlight.... you really need a safe gap of about 5mm), but this is where the glare problems begin, you cant set the globe back because the arc would not sit in the right location and that would throw the light pattern right out

as i said i wouldnt fit them to a free form or projector headlight

our kits retail for approximately $550 (subject to AU$ strength)

Its not a ground wire (ie. not at ground potential, but at AC 25Kv+ at hot restrike and ~90V at run) its a return wire but anyways... There are a few H7 kits out there that have a low profile return wire - the problem is mounting the bulb securely in the housing - its a PITA to do well.

I posted some pics not so long ago, beam pattern is just as bad as a halogen in the semi-freeform headlamp (not a true freeform, the lens still does some beam shaping) Its fashion over function. The H7 hid works ok because the headlamp is such a god awful design the filament geometry can be off and still 'sorta' work.

A geniune kit will last longer than a korean 'pot luck' cheapie, the colour temperature for both bulbs will be the same, and they will age at the same rate, the bulb geometry will be better and they may last a lot longer.

Its not a ground wire (ie. not at ground potential, but at AC 25Kv+ at hot restrike and ~90V at run) its a return wire but anyways... There are a few H7 kits out there that have a low profile return wire - the problem is mounting the bulb securely in the housing - its a PITA to do well.

I posted some pics not so long ago, beam pattern is just as bad as a halogen in the semi-freeform headlamp (not a true freeform, the lens still does some beam shaping) Its fashion over function. The H7 hid works ok because the headlamp is such a god awful design the filament geometry can be off and still 'sorta' work.

A geniune kit will last longer than a korean 'pot luck' cheapie, the colour temperature for both bulbs will be the same, and they will age at the same rate, the bulb geometry will be better and they may last a lot longer.

I saw a link to a page somewhere, which showed how high the headlights should be set to, to make sure its not directly pointing at oncoming traffic. I cannot find it anymore. :(

Also, i dont get the design of the bulbs for H7. why do they have to make the damn top of the bulb to long (where the return wire starts). The gas chamber itself is half way down the bulb, so why make it so long? Its stupid. Or I dont get the idea behind it....

And it sux that ceramics is the only thing that could shield the return wire from the headlight bulb shield. using electrical tape wouldn't do ****...

Its all so frustrating

The reason the arc capsule is placed where it is - these are rebased D2S bulbs. There are a few bulbs with return wires that are shorter, but they seem few and far between...

Insulation must be done with ceramic, for heat and voltage issues.

got them in my rada (low beams and fog light)

4300K - daylight white. not the dodgy blue/purple colured ****.

both the lights are adjustable from 35W to 55W via a hard wired remote control in the cabin. 35W HID are bright about 80W Halogen. 55W HID are brighter than you normal high beams!!!

they are not a cheap Chinese kit and the globes fitted perfectly and the wiring was perfect too. no cutting and splicing.

35w is actually as bright as 100w halogen.... according to a lux meter
55w is a real good way to catch unwanted attention
the difference in the cheap and expensive kits is mostly in the igniter box.... i've seen too many cheapies f##k out.. either by burning or just outright failing

yeah the voltage on them globes dont tickle... but definitely not as bad as a jolt from a porsche msd coil

i keep thinking HIDs would be really cool to have and that i'd be really cool if i had them in my car.........

........then i go for a drive at night and see VP Calais' with HIDs installed and the burning in my retina reminds me why I never plan on using these globes :D

got them in my rada (low beams and fog light)

4300K - daylight white. not the dodgy blue/purple colured ****.
Smart man :happy:

Smart man :happy:

:stoopid:

Maybe if more people used normal HID's like these 4300k ones, there wouldn't be such an issue with the crappy spread making the lights look terrible to anyone looking at the car :P

My HIDs are on their way.

eBay jobbies, 35w 6000k for Low and Fogs, 55W 6000k for Hi beams.

Let the blinding of people with poor but "cool looking" lighting begin.

And for those who arent familiar with eBay, its a rival auction site, kinda like an alternative to AMC where you can also list things to auction however eBay also have an option for some sellers to specify a price they would like for an item and other users can forgo all the bidding and simply purchase the item. Strange I know, but it seems to work.

:stoopid:

Maybe if more people used normal HID's like these 4300k ones, there wouldn't be such an issue with the crappy spread making the lights look terrible to anyone looking at the car :P

colour temp can safely be upto 6000k which is pure daylight white and cant b picked on for colour.... atleast

the spread you are seeing is from the instaler not focusing the headlight properly or at all

the only effective way to focus headlights is with a focusing machine so you can see the hot point

i usually set the lights down to 2% and the customers dont report any problems with oncoming traffic/cops

also freeform headlights and plastic headlights that are crazed and cracked are bad for producing glare

colour temp can safely be upto 6000k which is pure daylight white and cant b picked on for colour.... atleast

the spread you are seeing is from the instaler not focusing the headlight properly or at all

the only effective way to focus headlights is with a focusing machine so you can see the hot point

i usually set the lights down to 2% and the customers dont report any problems with oncoming traffic/cops

also freeform headlights and plastic headlights that are crazed and cracked are bad for producing glare

Spread shmed, they will still glare everyone, Nemesis's HID's are angled down way more then stock and were still glary.

;1041410']Spread shmed, they will still glare everyone, Nemesis's HID's are angled down way more then stock and were still glary.

sorry ive only converted about 60 odd cars and dont have the experience of one such as you.... maybe oneday i will tho

btw nemesis has parabolics which you will note that i said are glarey
std magna headlights are fine if focused using a headlight focusing machine http://www.hella.co.nz/?t=254

maybe one day you'll realise these types of kits are crap, and glare everyone on the road, no matter what its in, unless its actually in a car that was meant to have them...

even cars that have them stock (BMWs etc) glare like hell, leave a nice bright spot in my vision for a few minutes afterwards... always makes for a good fun drive

;1041625']maybe one day you'll realise these types of kits are crap, and glare everyone on the road, no matter what its in, unless its actually in a car that was meant to have them...

too right... and even then I notice some of the factory ones are way too bright for my eyes...

too right... and even then I notice some of the factory ones are way too bright for my eyes...

Probably just adjusted wrong, one of those BOSCH adjusting machines are the best to adjust your lights with too.
HID's are just some fad like undercar neons and LED washer nozzles....

;1041636']HID's are just some fad like undercar neons and LED washer nozzles....

So.... why don't you have them?

EDIT: Sounds a little harsh :(

HID's are just some fad like undercar neons and LED washer nozzles....

Wait... what?

Wait... what?

Well he's got a point. Future car headlights will be Bi-Xenon or all LED.

eliptical projector is the worst for glare and comes into my list of dont like to do's for conversion
a quality semi sealed headlight with a precision cut glass (read hella or bosch) and a good HID kit will not glare if focused properly.....

im sure this debate also occured when semi sealed halogen lighting came onto the market... people who have it love it.... people who dont have hate it

but everyone hates a badly focused headlight

the future is gonna be LED headlights fitted into an eliptical projector unit that auto adjusts for road conditions.... ive seen the specs and it looks gooood
this link is the closest i can find http://www.hella.com/hella-com-en/243.html (select afs)

Well he's got a point. Future car headlights will be Bi-Xenon or all LED.


wake up dude - they are already here. many cars are now bi xenon. and already audi is using LED headlights

colour temp can safely be upto 6000k which is pure daylight white and cant b picked on for colour.... atleast

the spread you are seeing is from the instaler not focusing the headlight properly or at all

the only effective way to focus headlights is with a focusing machine so you can see the hot point

i usually set the lights down to 2% and the customers dont report any problems with oncoming traffic/cops

also freeform headlights and plastic headlights that are crazed and cracked are bad for producing glare

6000k is not pure daylight - its a blue tinged light. 7000k and above starts to get blue with purple.

;1041636']Probably just adjusted wrong, one of those BOSCH adjusting machines are the best to adjust your lights with too.
HID's are just some fad like undercar neons and LED washer nozzles....



you havent driven a car with HIDs by the sound of it. i agree with you - unadjusted lights (HIS or otherwise) are crap and bad. HIDs however if not adjusted as you say will glare alot and be dangerous to oncoming cars.

you havent driven a car with HIDs by the sound of it. i agree with you - unadjusted lights (HIS or otherwise) are crap and bad. HIDs however if not adjusted as you say will glare alot and be dangerous to oncoming cars.

Being in one is proof enough?
Arnt the Audi's only LED's the DRL's?

wake up dude - they are already here. many cars are now bi xenon. and already audi is using LED headlights

He's saying ALL cars will have bi-xenon, not just exclusive ones.

Audi really only uses LED's for parkers, and concept cars. The only actual production car with all LED's is the is the R8, and that's after the $7.5k for the privilege of the option is paid.

Not to mention that the worlds first production car with LED low beams was actually the Lexus LS600H.

6000k is not pure daylight - its a blue tinged light. 7000k and above starts to get blue with purple.

Actually no, the_ash was right.

6000k is basically diamond white. You don't get blue on 6000k, unless you bought a cheap kit with blue glass, or a blue silicon cover or something.

wake up dude - they are already here. many cars are now bi xenon. and already audi is using LED headlights

I'll just quote you, then refer you to the above couple of posts which is what I was going to say anyway.

Some comprehension never goes astray.

Actually no, the_ash was right.

6000k is basically diamond white. You don't get blue on 6000k, unless you bought a cheap kit with blue glass, or a blue silicon cover or something.

if one looks at the headlight is may appear blue to the eye but that is because people are used to the lovely orange light of halogens.... the true color of a headlight appears in what is illuminated by it

It's funny, all this talk of colour temperature....

I keep marine aquariums, and nobody in their right mind would put a 6000K bulb on their tank as it would appear yellow. 10000K is considered to be pure white. 12K to 14K white with a hint of blue, and 20K a nice blue tinge.

If anyone is interested about what true colour temperature is, have a read (especially the "Colour Temperature" section):
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-03/atj/index.php

Quote:
The Sun itself produces light with a colour temperature at around 5800 K, however, as light from the Sun gets reflected and refracted by the earth's atmosphere, the actual colour temperature of the Sun will vary with different conditions. At noon, on a clear day, the direct light from the Sun alone is around 5500 K, but with the light from the sky included, it is around 6500 K. For this reason 'Daylight' is usually defined as 6500 K. At noon, on a clear day, in shade (so there is no direct light from the sun), the colour temperature may be higher than 20000 K.

Cheers

J

Yep - aquariums require a higher than normal UV content - the higher the colour temperature (for the same given wattage) the lower the output of the bulbs in lumens - the eye is irritated by blue wavelengths, so it was decided to standardise 4300K (and 5000K for the non-EU market) in automotive HID's.