hey guys these are pics. i made a hole in the first resonator, under the snorkel, and ran a pipe from there to the bottom splash guard. i made a hole in the splash guard and put a speaker port hole tube to sit flush, with the pipe ending inside. any thoughts on effects, and how much cold air it will give?. sucks well when ya rev. i noticed an improvement, but only slight and havent tried a foot down, accelaration test yet.

Sneaky sneaky!
Nice thinking but would be awesome to do a straight out CIA down there but you know how they are known for no room whats so ever.
Keep us posted if it makes any better improvements over various driving trips.

yeah im not sure how much improvement a small diameter pipe can make but im guessing the extra air available cant be bad,

Have the same on my car but instead of the pipe ending in the splash guard it's positoned facing forwards in the lower bumper grille area next to the fog light.

ahhh good idea, ill have to try that, did you noticed much difference??

ahhh good idea, ill have to try that, did you noticed much difference??
Not really since the supercharger kinda overshadowed it lol

ha ha fair enough, ill try driving around making a supercharger whine, see if it helps!!!!

I hate to me a pessimist, but is it the best idea putting an intake on a splash guard? Also why suck air from just near the black, hot road? Wouldn't it be much better to get the air from the bonnet or as high up from the road as possible?

it enters the resonator first so if any water was sucked up it would stop there due to loss of suction and the pipe inlet is offset to the resonator outlet into snorkel. also as ya driving the temp diff between bottom of bumper and top of bonnet would be nill.

Hi mate, check-out autospeed.com for lots of relevent info.

it enters the resonator first so if any water was sucked up it would stop there due to loss of suction and the pipe inlet is offset to the resonator outlet into snorkel. also as ya driving the temp diff between bottom of bumper and top of bonnet would be nill.

Then why have the intake down low? Sorry about this as I don't mean to be an ****, it just doesn't quite make sense to me.

Then why have the intake down low? Sorry about this as I don't mean to be an ****, it just doesn't quite make sense to me.
It's got to do with air flow. If the car was stationary, then yes you would be correct. But when a car is travelling it pushes air below and above it. There is a pressure diagram around somewhere, but basically the air flows down underneath the front bumper and then flows out the sides/back of the car. The air pressure flowing underneath the car at speed should negate the affects of the hot road, as the air is actually flowing from about bonnet height.

I definitely noticed my car running better in my TR doing this, still need to do it on my TJ (i have every thing sitting here, just need to get off my **** and do it).

Okay, physics rule. Cold air always at the lowest point, yes road is hot, But as soon as air heats up it rises. Therefore best place for CAI, at the bottom.

Love it!! Driving around with the driver (why not the passengers also?) simulating "supercharger whine" - how many Killer-wasps does this liberate? Anyone got dyno charts, pre-whine and post-whine?

I have a crappy case of "ground loop" noise in my TJ Sports when I plug the IPod thru the Aux-in Jack of HU - but NOW I can pretend its supercharger whine !!!! No wonder the TJ manual feels so much gruntier than the KJ Auto!!!

Glad to hear you are happy with your mod. I'll have to take a glance at my cars and suss out what you have done.

you may get some advantages on this , but would really be thinking you need to have a piece facing forward to pick up more air....like Mohit said. I have a simliar setup converting a VN commodore intake into a custom CAI attached to same inlet point

forward would be best, just was easier to run it strait down, it is angled forward slightly, workin well, seems to pick up slightly quicker. cheers for the auto speed info, was good.

Yeah that factory snorkel is a slight restriction even on a stock engine. I bored a 75mm hole in the air box before the filter and used a flexable pipe to go from the air box past the radiator support/radiator some digrinding required to open up a big enough hole then zip tied the pipe to the grill in the front bar next to dumby intake/fog light. I think it's a worth will addition for a couple of hours work and about $10 of pipe.

Cheers Dave

Okay, physics rule. Cold air always at the lowest point, yes road is hot, But as soon as air heats up it rises. Therefore best place for CAI, at the bottom.

Well yes your theroy is correct, but, it has to be hotter down lower for the hot air to rise otherwise it wouldn't move at all.

It's probably an improvment over stock, but I am still questioning it.

Well yes your theroy is correct, but, it has to be hotter down lower for the hot air to rise otherwise it wouldn't move at all.

It's probably an improvment over stock, but I am still questioning it.

Yes, no,maybe? :badgrin:

Mrmacomouto, you are so god damn weird and random, I don't even know myself anymore

No we don't want bonnet scoops even if that is the correct way because it looks WRONG.
Getting rid of the restriction is the priority here without butchering the car.

Cheers Dave

Yes, no,maybe? :badgrin:

His theroy is right, but he is wrong.

Hot air does always rise, but that doesn't mean that hot air is never down low, it has to be down low so that it can get hot and rise.

So the way I see it at the moment, were:

+5 For opening up the ammount of air flow
-2 For sucking hot air up off the road

+3 overall. Good Job.

mate, a car travelling at 60kph will be pushing a hell of a lot of air underneath the car, a phenomenon called aerodynamics and air pressure. Heat off the road will do bugger all to influence the air going through the intake. absolutely sweet FA.

First of all, if this mod is making a difference, it would be so minute any perceptible difference is purely 'placebo'. You'd be surprised just how much of a difference there has to be before it becomes noticeable . e.g my tuner reckons there has to be a 5-10% improvement in power or throttle response for it be noticeable at all, my own personal experience supports this. When my car was NA, I didn't even percieve a 10wkw difference which back-to-back dyno runs clearly showed.

Secondly, while you have the right idea, I suspect your mod is doing bugger-all, possible even slightly having a negative impact. This is because your additional source of air underneath the snorkel is coming in perpendicular to the the direction in which most of the intake air is flowing. This is most likely causing a bunch of turbulence inside the snorkel, which isn't helpful.

I know what I've just said goes against what people wanto hear, but the reality is often the case.


mate, a car travelling at 60kph will be pushing a hell of a lot of air underneath the car, a phenomenon called aerodynamics and air pressure. Heat off the road will do bugger all to influence the air going through the intake. absolutely sweet FA.

Acutally a measureable difference in intake air temp is generally going to more influential than so-called positive air pressure. A while ago there was an article (done by Autospeed I think) which showed that a purpose-built "ram" style intake only produce 0.1psi of measureable 'boost'. Oh and this was done a much higher speed than 60km/hr, more like 200km/hr if memory serves.

In short, I'd be much more concerned about the temperature of the intake charge than if the inlet is located in a place of positive pressure or not. Basically ram-style intakes do ****-all - as long as the inlet of the intake is situated where there's a supply of cool air, and not being restricted severely in some way (e.g partially covered by something else), there's not much else to be done.

i would be surprised if this turbulance out weighed the advantages of the extra air give there is a filter and a MAS designed to straighten out the air anyway. I see you point tho.

yeah good point about the airflow turbulence. I have been mulling over the idea of cutting a section off the top of the snorkel myself, at the front as it seems like a really narrow opening. I am sure this helps keep intake velocity high, but it must restrict it also...

i would be surprised if this turbulance out weighed the advantages of the extra air give there is a filter and a MAS designed to straighten out the air anyway. I see you point tho.

I'm inclined to think it would, but I have nothing to back this up with, just a semi-educated hunch. The MAF and filter do straighten out the air to some extent, but that kind of turbelence anywhere in the intake tract isn't a good thing (well certain types of turbelence can be beneficial, but the typre created by what we are talking wouldn't be).

ive repositioned it to face forward sitting between radiator and frame, as i read on autospeed, there was a negative pressure underneath front bumper which i think may have been trying to draw air out of the pipe (theory). it may be just placebo, but it feels like it has more throttle response, i think because when you floor it the engine is able to fill the intake plenum and thus cylinders faster with the extra air available. i disagree with someone been unable to notice a 10kw difference as i gutted the cat converter and felt an immediate improvement, and surely this increase cant have been more than a few kw at best. also can you feel a difference between a ralliart version and the standard?? i thought these only differed by 10 or so kw? (correct me if im wrong, please) :)

i disagree with someone been unable to notice a 10kw difference as i gutted the cat converter and felt an immediate improvement, and surely this increase cant have been more than a few kw at best. also can you feel a difference between a ralliart version and the standard?? i thought these only differed by 10 or so kw? (correct me if im wrong, please) :)

Probably placebo IMO.

Well not everyone is the same, but like I said, I failed to notice a 10wkw difference when my car was NA. Given how much I play with cars and do motorsport etc, IMO my sensetivity to this kind of thing is probably at last as good as most, if not better.

The thing is the 10wkw was only missing from the top 500rpm of the revrange, everywhere else was the same. If that 10wkw was missing from the midrange or across a larger spread, it probably would have been much obvious.

Ralliart makes 180kw at the fly, sports/VRX is 163kw, and exec is 150-155 (the latter is TJII I believe?). Extra power aside, you'd almost certainly notice the change in how the power is delivered - where a regular magna would be running out puff, the ralliart motor would keep pulling strong for a few more hundred rpm, mainly because of its higher lift camshafts.

When it comes to feeling tangible differences between mods/cars, it's not just about a peak kw figure, but how that power is delivered over the revrange, and part-throttle response.

In short, the bum dyno isn't the most accurate tool. Combine that with numerous factors which skew results, and it IMO it becomes very difficult to measure small differences with any certainty. There's just so many factors that complicate things, e.g:

- A change in intake/exhaust sound can give the impression the car is quicker, especially a large increase in volume
- The power your car is making varies a bit with ambient air temp, humidity and pressure.
- Most roads have a slight slope, from inside the car it's difficult to tell if the road is slightly sloping down or uphill.
- An extra passenger or 2 is going to dull the car a bit

etc etc
Most important of all, placebo effect tends to be very powerful. When you've just spent money/effort on a mod, you WANT to notice an improvement, and most people are very good at subconciously convincing themselves they do, even in cases where in reality there is no tangible difference.

To cut a long story short, when we are talking about small differences, the only way to be sure is to do back-to-back dyno testing. Though dynos don't measure throttle response/part throttle performance, only wide open throttle stuff.

im going to try removing the pipe and returning it to normal and see if theres a difference, it is hard to tell. compared to the difference when i gutted the cat converter, which was definitely not placebo, it was noticibly more responsive. also if removing the restriction a cat converter adds didnt make a difference then all the guys who fit lukey exhausts and cat back systems are wasting there money!!! i drive the same piece of relatively level road, so its easy to notice a change in performance. what does RPW etc recommend doing to the intake, when they fit a supercharger? does the intake need addressing at all??

compared to the difference when i gutted the cat converte

I so hope the EPA read this forum, one can only pray.

15K fine coming your way one day.

Cat convertors, there's a reason why they are on your car - if you think its restrictive, buy a hiflow cat. Even if you couldnt care less about the environment, maybe other people do?

I so hope the EPA read this forum, one can only pray.

15K fine coming your way one day.

Cat convertors, there's a reason why they are on your car - if you think its restrictive, buy a hiflow cat. Even if you couldnt care less about the environment, maybe other people do?

He'll probably die from poisoning long before EPA finds out. Hope he does not park his car in a garage.

Its not a legal requirement in NewZealand to have a cat converter, no emissions testing. so no fine coming my way . you can have a strait through pipe and pass WOF inspection. Also i dont sit in my closed garage with my car running. :nuts: :nuts: if you wanna comment constructively, do. otherwise dont. not everyone subscribes to the global warning theory, so please dont force your opinion on me. thanks.

Didnt realise you were international - so scratch the fine.

As for the environment, I stand by the comment. Some people still actually care about the environment - but hey.

Its not a legal requirement in NewZealand to have a cat converter, no emissions testing. so no fine coming my way . you can have a strait through pipe and pass WOF inspection. Also i dont sit in my closed garage with my car running. :nuts: :nuts: if you wanna comment constructively, do. otherwise dont. not everyone subscribes to the global warning theory, so please dont force your opinion on me. thanks.

Its not about global warming. Its about your health. You will inadvertantly be breathing in at least half-a-dozen highly poisonous gasses. Just do a wiki/google search on what the cat removes.

how would i be breathing my exhaust? i drive in my garage, turn my car off, and then shut the garage door. it is away from the house. my exhaust has no leaks, and none enters the car. if i were in an urban center, there would be a certain amount of toxins in the air, but that is a given. it is tuned and maintained so does not emit any extra fumes or smoke. I also have noticed an improvement in my gas milage, so i am using less fossil fuels. also cat converters have a certain lifespan, about 100,000 ks i have been told, after that they are ineffective and begin to clog and restrict. my diamnte has done 240,000 so i am certain it was not filtering much at all. i was told this by a guy who works at pitstop. thanks

I guarantee more then half the members on this site have a poor/non performing cat. We all change them when they have totally burned out and or collapsed, by this time the cat hasn't been working for quite some time.

Your cat only lasts X km, just not law to replace it, but its the law (in Aus) to have a working cat. Little bit retarded IMO.

As for breathing in your exhaust gasses, eh, it happens a fair bit. Even sitting in traffic you can easily smell a rich exhaust. I dont care much about climate change, im more concerned about quality of air - but anywho, if NZ doesnt have laws it doesnt matter for you.

In short, I'd be much more concerned about the temperature of the intake charge than if the inlet is located in a place of positive pressure or not. Basically ram-style intakes do ****-all - as long as the inlet of the intake is situated where there's a supply of cool air, and not being restricted severely in some way (e.g partially covered by something else), there's not much else to be done.

Thank you.

ive changed it back to standard intake as i have been thinking about the intake resonators, which i know many guys remove. from what i can google, they simply quieten the intake noise by tuning the intake with the correct volume containers. now i know that engines have certain harmonic resonance/vibration, and that harmonic balancers are designed to cancel these out. i also know there is various levels and they act upon an engine in certain ways. now does anyone think mitsubishi may have tuned the intake not only for less noise but to work in harmony with the engine to cancel these vibrations out?? maybe the exact amount of air at any given rev is got to be correct to achieve, well harmony!!! lol sounds a bit sci fi, but they must spend the millions of research money on something!!! any thoughts?? please be constructive!!

Possible, but more probably

"it's to loud at idle, I want that noise reduced by 30%"

*engineer crys at loosing 4 weeks of tuning*

Possible, but more probably

"it's to loud at idle, I want that noise reduced by 30%"

*engineer crys at loosing 4 weeks of tuning*

ha ha ha :D ya probably right lol!!!!

hey all, with intake back to standard the bottom end torque is alot better again, its not placebo, theres a noticible difference, im leaving mine stock, mitsi did a good job. the only thing i have done is trim the plastic panel that covers the bonnet latch mechanism to leave a space where the intake sits, just to let a little more cold air in. cheers on the input guys.

with a stocky engine its all you need.

Im making a custom snorkle and front panel for the tj's at the moment,will post my own section when its done!

I'd be interested in modding my intake, i'd like a bit more noise on an open throttle.

Wanna put a pod with custom box but most people don't recommend a pod on a magna right.

I'd be interested in modding my intake, i'd like a bit more noise on an open throttle.

Wanna put a pod with custom box but most people don't recommend a pod on a magna right.


You can put a POD on a magna but you want on oval one not a circle one if you search for K&N pod filters you will be able to get the right one

Anyone got pics to show the difference between the two and which one to get.

Anyone got pics to show the difference between the two and which one to get.
Use the search function. It's been covered on this site a number of times.

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64586&highlight=k%26n+filter

You can put a POD on a magna but you want on oval one not a circle one if you search for K&N pod filters you will be able to get the right one
It really doesn't matter, as long as you get the right adapter so you don't choke off bypass holes on the MAF. You shouldn't be using a pod in open engine bay heat anyway, relocate it further down to free-flowing air for better results.

Anyone got pics to show the difference between the two and which one to get.

Take one like this
http://kandn.com/images/l/57-1500-1.jpg
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o248/MagnaTech07/DSC00271.jpg

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64757

that is what the big pod and pod adaptor looks like..

yes these engines definitly suffer alot from a pod just sitting in the engine bay.. terrible bottom end/fuel consumption..

i've returned all mine back to stock.. cept for the little resonators.. give it just a little noise.. but also a bit of an annoying whistle.. lol.. i want to replace the rubber elbow with one i'll make out of some ally bends.. :) but still keep the factory air box, with a panel filter..

that looks like a nice setup.. have that made out of ally and you would have one wicked loud air intake!! :) :) Honda Style!!

tried doing some sort of heat sheilding around the pod?

Yeah I have sheild
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o248/MagnaTech07/image_00152.jpg

Check out Greenmatt's 'Easy TL CAI',thats what I've got, cost $50. Even if the car is'nt a TL-TW you can have it sucking from lower down or near the headlight like a N.Z. CAI.

Id like to see some before an after runs on a dyno and 1/4 mile.
If it doesn't show up here, its all in your head.