hey guys, was wondering how hard it is to change the timing chain on my tr, im far from being a mechanic, but can use tools and follow instructions, just wanna see if its something i can do or best left to the pros, i bought the kit off e bay, so thought id see whether its possible for myself to attempt it, as ive heard quotes to fit it could be anywhere up to 700 odd dollars

To be honest, to save a lot of missing skin, you are best lifting the engine out of the car. Gives you the oppertunity to give it all a good clean at the same time.

The job itself is very easy provided you can, as you said follow directions and you have the right tooling and place to do it.

It can be done in car but is a pain in the ass to get some of the front bracket bolts out so I do it engine out or I dont do it lol

While on the topic of timing chains for a TR, does anyone know how often they should be changed? I've heard due to them tighting to reduce flex they can see the engine out. But I don't like the idea of doing 300k + on the same chain.

@Robdog, changing them is quite simple, you just have to make sure everything is aligned correctly, as one tooth out could really screw up the timing. I'd agree with Madmagna, taking the engine out will make the job much easier (trust me on this) and give you a chance to clean up a bit :)

While on the topic of timing chains for a TR, does anyone know how often they should be changed? I've heard due to them tighting to reduce flex they can see the engine out. But I don't like the idea of doing 300k + on the same chain.

@Robdog, changing them is quite simple, you just have to make sure everything is aligned correctly, as one tooth out could really screw up the timing. I'd agree with Madmagna, taking the engine out will make the job much easier (trust me on this) and give you a chance to clean up a bit :)
every 100,000 k's they need to be changed

every 100,000 k's they need to be changed

Sorry mate, but there is no service interval for a timing chain, you are thinking belts.

The chain needs to be replaced when it starts making noise. I have seen them go 200k's with no issues, have seen them do 50k and start to rattle.

In most cases it is not actually the timing chain that rattles but the balance chain which is a long single row chain and tends to stretch.

The TR/S models also have a hydrolic tensionor for the balance chain so make sure you have the correct kit as this also needs to be replaced.

if its rattling put up with it, mine does it a bit but hell no am I paying another $900 to have it done
isnt doing any harm, its a magna thing really that they start rattling early etc

if its rattling put up with it, mine does it a bit but hell no am I paying another $900 to have it done
isnt doing any harm, its a magna thing really that they start rattling early etc

If it is a quick rattle at start up, leave it go

If it rattles at idle get it done as you can be driving down the road one day and it snaps, then you have no oil pressure and no engine

Sorry mate, but there is no service interval for a timing chain, you are thinking belts.

The chain needs to be replaced when it starts making noise. I have seen them go 200k's with no issues, have seen them do 50k and start to rattle.

In most cases it is not actually the timing chain that rattles but the balance chain which is a long single row chain and tends to stretch.

The TR/S models also have a hydrolic tensionor for the balance chain so make sure you have the correct kit as this also needs to be replaced.
Is it a common problem for the guides to wear and cause noise aswell?

']Is it a common problem for the guides to wear and cause noise aswell?

Yes, it happens that with time, the rubber on the chain guides wear away revealing two long ridges in the steel. These press against the chain and mark it but also stop it from getting caught on the top of the guide and snapping. This will mark the chain which will be an indicator of whether the chain itself needs replacing.

Re; Ferox. Mate, if you dont get it fixed, it will most likely snap. I thought exactly the same thing about mine the first time round. We thought 'nah it'll be fine, dont need to do it now'. THEN, wont you know it, use the car for three months and the thing snaps. peace of mind:)

NOW, I'll let mal fix up whatever I may have got wrong:)

its a decent job, well worth it if done correctly tho. magna buff, stagma and i did mine the first time but she was rattling after about 20K km so we re-did the chains but eliminated the balance shafts and chain, replaced with a smaller chain to drive the oil pump.
very happy with it now, much quieter and smoother. i would recommend this to anyone with an astron
the rattle at startup is due to low oil pressure afaik, and can be prevented with an oil filter with an anti-drain valve, someone correct me if im wrong.

if its rattling put up with it, mine does it a bit but hell no am I paying another $900 to have it done
isnt doing any harm, its a magna thing really that they start rattling early etc


yeah it rattles on start up, then goes away but soon as the car warms up it comes back, so i think ill do it before anythin snaps

Bypass kit is always a good move, some do leave the top shaft in but I prefer to remove it and close off the oil passage.

The reason for the start up rattle is 2 fold, chain stretch as well as the non return valve in the tensioner getting blocked and letting oil return. A filter with a valve will do jack as it does not maintain oil pressure when the car is off.

If you have a second gen, when you get the bypass kit, you will find that you will also need to mod the balance chain tensioner that hangs off the oil pump