Hi Guys,

I've got a couple of questions I hope you can help me with. Firstly, I got my TJ exec back from a 112500 service yesterday and was just wondering if I'm not paying to much for what they did. They charged me $190.00 for the service, and advised me they had to replace the front brake pads for which they charged me another $180.00

does this seem about the right price, or have I been ripped off?

Secondly, I've replaced brake pads on my old camry many moons ago, but have always been reluctant to try with the Magna. Is it fairly straightforward?

Thanks in advance

Replacing your brake pads will be the same process as doing it in your Camry. Pull one caliper bolt off, loosen the other, swing caliper away, pull pads off, use G-clamp to compress the piston, fit new pads, swing caliper closed, re-insert bolt and tighten both up.

Those prices seem fairly standard for a service, as exxy as they are, I prefer to do it myself or con a mate into giving me a hand with it.

did mine the other day..

it's 1 15mm bolt on each caliper.. undo it, lift the caliper, pop the old pads out, pull the 'squeal plates' off, whack them onto the new pads, install new pads, connect some hose to the bleeding nipple and run it into a bottle of old brake fluid, crack the nipple and with multigrips/G clamp push the piston back into the caliper, tighten the nipple, swing caliper back down, install 15mm bolt again (might need to hold the nut on the other end of the slide i think it was a 17mm)..

repeat over the other side..

check fluid in the resovoir BEFORE stomping on the brakes.. top up (or drain and refill with fresh fluid if you want to flush - highly suggest)..

you shouldn't need to bleed the brakes.. but i suggest you do just incse..

Thanks for the advice.

Anybody able to post some pics up of a brake pad swap? Mine need doing... Never done it before, pics would be nice as a guide :)

I have a PDF of the Gregorys / Haines for the Brake section for 3rd Gens, however I don't know how to upload it, PM me and I can email it.

http://rapidshare.com/files/60376247/magna_verada_diamante.zip

For TH/KH, TJ/KJ and Ralliart Series
Section : General, Engine, Engine Overhaul, Lubrication, Multipoint Fuel Injection, Fuel Supply, Traction Control System, Engine Cooling, Intake and Exhaust, Engine Electrical, Manual and Automatic Transmission, and more.
:cool:

did mine the other day..

it's 1 15mm bolt on each caliper.. undo it, lift the caliper, pop the old pads out, pull the 'squeal plates' off, whack them onto the new pads, install new pads, connect some hose to the bleeding nipple and run it into a bottle of old brake fluid, crack the nipple and with multigrips/G clamp push the piston back into the caliper, tighten the nipple, swing caliper back down, install 15mm bolt again (might need to hold the nut on the other end of the slide i think it was a 17mm)..

repeat over the other side..

check fluid in the resovoir BEFORE stomping on the brakes.. top up (or drain and refill with fresh fluid if you want to flush - highly suggest)..

you shouldn't need to bleed the brakes.. but i suggest you do just incse..

FYI you wont need to crack the nipple if you do one side at a time, unless your refreshing your fluid. Also use your old pad between the piston and the end of the G clamp, last thing you want is for it to slip and mark the seal/bore of the caliper.

Hi Guys,

I've got a couple of questions I hope you can help me with. Firstly, I got my TJ exec back from a 112500 service yesterday and was just wondering if I'm not paying to much for what they did. They charged me $190.00 for the service, and advised me they had to replace the front brake pads for which they charged me another $180.00

does this seem about the right price, or have I been ripped off?

Secondly, I've replaced brake pads on my old camry many moons ago, but have always been reluctant to try with the Magna. Is it fairly straightforward?

Thanks in advance


seeing that mines only at 100000 and i got a full sweep done om mine and i mean everything mine was $800 so dosnt sound like u got riped of ow and i didnt get riped off either because it a family friend of mine who did my tj

seeing that mines only at 100000 and i got a full sweep done om mine and i mean everything mine was $800 so dosnt sound like u got riped of ow and i didnt get riped off either because it a family friend of mine who did my tj

They would of done your timing belt hence why it was 800 bucks

For 180 bucks depends if that was the price of pads included with that and a fluid change. If they didnt, then its a rip. If it did and was decent pads then thats a fine price

FYI you wont need to crack the nipple if you do one side at a time, unless your refreshing your fluid. Also use your old pad between the piston and the end of the G clamp, last thing you want is for it to slip and mark the seal/bore of the caliper.

Im under the impression that you should crack the nipple on each caliper for the reasoning that number 1,it makes it easier to compress the piston back inot the bore,and number 2,so you dont force possbly dirty fluid back into the ABS module,which i hear is bad news for it,ive been guilty of not doing so either in the past with no hassles,so who knows!

Theoretiacally there shouldnt be any dirt in the braking system. It is good practice to flush new fluid through the system every 12 months anyway. Brake fluid absorbs moisture, and when the fluid gets hot, and can sometimes boil, it can put air bubbles in the brake lines giving you a spongy pedal and no brakes.

Im under the impression that you should crack the nipple on each caliper for the reasoning that number 1,it makes it easier to compress the piston back inot the bore,and number 2,so you dont force possbly dirty fluid back into the ABS module,which i hear is bad news for it,ive been guilty of not doing so either in the past with no hassles,so who knows!

If the fluid was "dirty" then it would be already in the ABS unit.

As Chris said you change the fluid as its Gyroscopic (absorbs moisture) needs to be changed every 12 months or it really can boil quickly.

Ive always done my pads without undoing the nipple its simple as.

If the fluid was "dirty" then it would be already in the ABS unit.

As Chris said you change the fluid as its Gyroscopic (absorbs moisture) needs to be changed every 12 months or it really can boil quickly.

Ive always done my pads without undoing the nipple its simple as.

like i said,i havent done this in the past either,but alot of tech sheets etc specify it for the reasons i gave,heres an example,i might change my methods if it is indeed damaging!

http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1i/bl836i.htm

For $180 I damn hope that they machined the rotors while they were at it

I alway machine rotors when i do pads, I also clean and lubricate all the sliders, use anti squeal and graphite grease on the areas where the pad contacts the bracket

As for opening the bleed nipple, this can end in disaster for someone whe is not sure what they are doing as you can end up with a gut full of air in the system.

Only open it when you are beeding and if your fluid is dirty, it is all through the system and as stated above you should chage brake fluid yearly (preferably after winter as the moisture in the air can be absorbed into the fluid)