Okay here goes;

1) Check Engine Light;
When cold, my dash will sometimes display CHECK ENGINE. This is an intermittent problem and does not always occur. Sometimes the light will disappear by itself, but sometimes I will have to stop, turn the car off, then turn it back on again and hey presto, no CHECK ENGINE.

a) There is no change in engine sound or operation. Engine is still smooth and idle is still steady. Engine oil is at proper level aswell as Coolant. Could this be due to an exhaust leak at the base of my manifold?
b) Improper idle? My car idles (in my opinion) a bit high when hot. 1100RPM in N. For a manual, what is the required RPM in N?

2) Knock in steering.
When reversing or doing slow turning maneuvers, there is a series of knocks in the steering. Often quite loud.

a) Tie rods? Sway bar? Control Arm?

3) Running Rich (Black soot on bumper)
What could cause my car to run rich? This was not aparent on my old engine and seems to have been occurring only on the new one although it uses the same ECU/Intake etc as the old engine (replaced Jul 08). Any suggestions. Using higher octane fuel seems to have a better end result but still leaves black residue on the rear bumper. Have also tried injector cleaner which seems to have no effect.

4) Fuel Cut-out
When in the 4th quarter (E side) of the guage, when making a sharp right hand turn (U-turn or 90Deg) the engine cuts out. I am lead to believe this is due to fuel starvation rather than anything else, yet there is still plenty of fuel in the tank (Only fills 40Lt). What could be causing this?

Thanks in advance.
-Ian.

Ill have a go @ number 3) please...


Have you changed your Air filter to a different brand? Or different setup? Pretty sure on your inlet manifold there is a tiny screw you can do minor fuel adjustments. Might have moved maybe?

dunno if this will help or not, but im having the same problems with the knocking in the steering wheel
got told it was the springs doing it, but it wasnt that
then was told its in the power steering pump, where the fluid runs into the line theres a washer or something and whats causing the knocking is its starting to get blocked alittle
the knocking started when i removed/replaced the belt for the power steering pump

fuel cut out, maybe the filters blocked?

What the the engine symbol light indicates when it comes on



1. Engine control unit
* 2. Oxygen sensor
3. Air-flow sensor
4. Intake air temperature sensor
5. Throttle position sensor
6. Engine coolant temperature sensor
7. Crank angle sensor
8. Top dead centre sensor
9. Knock sensor
10. Ignition timing adjustment signal
11. Injector
Caution: - The engine warning lamp also comes on when the terminal for ignition timing adjustment is
earthed during ignition timing adjustment.
*Note - The 0' sensor on 4 cylinder models built after February 1992 does not activate the engine
warning lamp

check the tie rods and ball joints are in good order

look at the condition of the lower control arm bushes
then the front shocks........ is the car lowered?

fuel could be
water in the tank (condensation ...add metho to tank )
the fuel pump
when was the fuel filter changed ?

I'll have a go at number 4.

On my 3rd gen (TE) I suffered bad engine cut-outs when turning hard right with less than 1/4 fuel in the tank.

As far as I know it was because the fuel pick up is on the right (driver's) side of the tank, so when you turn right the fuel slops over to the left side of the tank, and when there is less than 1/4 of a tankful it's enough so that the pick up is left high & dry.

Apparently racing Magnas had this problem big time until they fitted baffles in the fuel tank.

Hardly worth pulling the tank to fit baffle(s), just learn not to turn hard right with low fuel!

KJ.

Ian - did any of these Issues occur before you did the conversion?
Edit - Is your oxy sensor plugged in?

hey ian, got some answers for you,

check engine light, what viscosity oil are you using? my engine light would come on when cold until just below NOT..
did an oil change to a thinner oil (10w-40) and problem solved..

steering knock - this will be your bearing plates as theyre called, theyre basically your suspension mounts that are between the top of the strut and tower. cost me $95 each from pedders, genuine was the only other option. changed them over and silent steering :D

running rich - tuffys probly on the money with the oxy sensor, check all your filters, fuel and ignition timing, havent had this problem personally but thats all i got..
fuel surge may be related to the filter or pump? is the correct pressure in your fuel rail?

ill attempt to answer all q's and posts in one.

86elite; air filter is stock mitsu filter changed approx 3000kms ago. Idle screw is the same posi i always set it to.

Mr Rob; im pretty sure its got to do with a steering component as it does it even when stationary. I will see if I can get a sound clip 2moro.

Buff;
A) now that i think about it, it could be the knock sensor. This and the oxy sensor were the only engine things changed in the conversion.

B) control arm rear bushes are new nolathane. Front are old but seemed firm upon inspection. Ball joints are in good order, including the sway bar joint. Car is stock height.
Would a clogged filter cause the car to run rich? Fuel Filter changed 3 years ago.

Kj380;
The car did not originally cut out. It began approx 6 months ago which was alarming as I was turning on to a busy road.

Tuff;
Fuel cut-out, running rich and to a lesser extent steering knock existed before conversion. Check engine light did not.

Big4cyl;
I am using 20W50 with quarter bottle of Lucas heavy duty oil stabiliser. I have a gallon of 10w40 at home, ill try this and come back to ya.

I can feel the knock quite well in the 'wheel, which leads me to believe that its more sway bar/control arm/tie rods related, but if you would be so kind as to shoot me a PM with how to replace or locate these bits, ill have a look at it.

As for fuel pressure, i dont have the pressure guage, so I dont know. Will get that checked.

Thanks for the replies guys, looking forward to reading some more on it.

Did you use the manual 4cyl ECU when you swapped everything over or are you using the auto ECU? I'm not sure if they are different part numbers but if your not using the manual ECU I'd try that.

']Did you use the manual 4cyl ECU when you swapped everything over or are you using the auto ECU? I'm not sure if they are different part numbers but if your not using the manual ECU I'd try that.

Good idea man, ill try that!

mine also made the noise when stationary

mine also made the noise when stationary
Hmmm, ill get it checked then! :)

My steering is much the same, Its not a loud knock but you can hear it and feel it through the wheel, happens when near full lock, happens the most when in reverse, had it checked out on my last service and the steering rack is leaking and they said i need a new left hand outter tie rod end, go get it checked out, could be that, they only quoted me $25 for a new tie rod end.

thought I should put up an update.

Problems a and b have been solved with C looking good also. Problems were:

A) improper battery. I was using the battery from the pathfinder when this was occuring. The battery terminals on the pathfinder are slightly smaller, which meant that the - terminal was loose, causing the engine check light to come on.

B) badly worn wheel bearrings. They were worn to the point where the wheels sounded loose, since changing them, there is no knock.

C) rich mixture: ive changed the ECU to that of the manual on which seems to have changed the cars attitude. Ill report back soon enough with my result.

Wish you luck and all the best as its a nice clean car. (love the interior)

We all suffer from the same prob sometimes.

Age Wear & Tear and just need a good looking after....lol

Depending on k's i'd change the o2 sensor.....but get back to basics.
eg fuel filter,spark plugs,dizzy cap,rotor button,spark leads,idle solenoid,air filter etc.

sorry for sounding like a mother but most people rather mods over good all fashion servicing.

love to hear how you go.