Hey all

Recently got my car lowered on king springs and its riding on 235/45/r18 wheels, also got a wheel alignment done at the same time

Ever since the lowering, the steering wheel seems to be so much more responsive, to the point where if i go over certain bump it'll actually knock the wheel to the left maybe a quarter of a turn, its quite strange but I have no idea what it could be, also when braking the wheel actually pulls it self to the left (not sure if this is the same problem)

Someone said to check my tyre pressure, so I think this arvo ill put it up to 35 - 40 psi, any other suggestions?

Hey all

Recently got my car lowered on king springs and its riding on 235/45/r18 wheels, also got a wheel alignment done at the same time

Ever since the lowering, the steering wheel seems to be so much more responsive, to the point where if i go over certain bump it'll actually knock the wheel to the left maybe a quarter of a turn, its quite strange but I have no idea what it could be, also when braking the wheel actually pulls it self to the left (not sure if this is the same problem)

Someone said to check my tyre pressure, so I think this arvo ill put it up to 35 - 40 psi, any other suggestions?

Lots of causes:
1. Wheel alignment is off / toe in not set accordingly (although our roads are banked to the left so there is tendency for cars to pull left).
2. Uneven braking perfromance. Check pads and rotors. Is there any shudder when braking?
3. There may be a manufacturing flaw with the tyres in that the right one is not offering as much grip as the left one.
4. Anyone else has more...

As for been more responsive. That goes with the territory of lowering as the suspension is more stiff and with larger wheels with lower profile tyres, transfers more feel to the steering wheel.

To fit these tyres you have ended up with a bit more offset because of the wider wheels.
Also when lowered there will be a fair bit more rear negative camber.

Couple of ways to work on this.

Get a 4 wheel alignment done.
Set the fronts as close to 0 toe-in or out as possible,
Set the rears as Whiteline recommend.

Make sure that there isn't a big difference in camber or castor between the LHF and RHF.

Then, it is bits I'm afradi.
Front - castor bushes to increase the castor angle, then camber pins to get around 1° to 1.25° negative camber.

This will definitely harden up the steering and make it a little less sensitive to road disturbances.
Problem is that when the car was developed it was back in the early 2000's and the upright design was not really aimed at wider wheel rim widths.

Gerry