Hay

Ive posted about this problem once before but all off a sudden went away and was all good. Between going from 1st to 2nd revving out doing a fast gear change you would get a nice big wheel spin chirp and it would jump on the speedo. I dont know if its the clutch or power.? But when i fisrt braught the car it wouldnt chirp at all. Then i notice as months go on it would just chirp then all off a sudden would chirp and spin big time for a couple months it did it like it should. Then all off a sudden tonight did it again no chirp. I know this is stupid but anyone that could help. Doing my head in:rant:

Thanks Kurt

Hay

Ive posted about this problem once before but all off a sudden went away and was all good. Between going from 1st to 2nd revving out doing a fast gear change you would get a nice big wheel spin chirp and it would jump on the speedo. I dont know if its the clutch or power.? But when i fisrt braught the car it wouldnt chirp at all. Then i notice as months go on it would just chirp then all off a sudden would chirp and spin big time for a couple months it did it like it should. Then all off a sudden tonight did it again no chirp. I know this is stupid but anyone that could help. Doing my head in:rant:

Thanks Kurt

Tyres,road type/condition,weather,clutch etc etc,a could be any of them

Hay

Ive posted about this problem once before but all off a sudden went away and was all good. Between going from 1st to 2nd revving out doing a fast gear change you would get a nice big wheel spin chirp and it would jump on the speedo. I dont know if its the clutch or power.? But when i fisrt braught the car it wouldnt chirp at all. Then i notice as months go on it would just chirp then all off a sudden would chirp and spin big time for a couple months it did it like it should. Then all off a sudden tonight did it again no chirp. I know this is stupid but anyone that could help. Doing my head in:rant:

Thanks Kurt

Clutch was slipping then grabbed, hence the chirp as the gearbox got a huge jolt.

Advice is ease off on the loud pedal and go easy on the box, you can and WILL break it if you try to be Alonso.

Yeah true i will look after. But i wanna know wat it is u reckon mabey clutch not grabbing straight away.?

Yeah true i will look after. But i wanna know wat it is u reckon mabey clutch not grabbing straight away.?

Probably as you were revving the guts out of it, a clutch wont grab if you dump it at high rpms all it will do is slip (which is what you want it to do otherwise it can destroy gearboxes)

Easy and simple fix, take it easy on the clutch pedal loud pedal and the knob, theres no gold stars for breaking drivetrain conponents on a stock/near stock motor.

Probably as you were revving the guts out of it, a clutch wont grab if you dump it at high rpms all it will do is slip (which is what you want it to do otherwise it can destroy gearboxes)

Easy and simple fix, take it easy on the clutch pedal loud pedal and the knob, theres no gold stars for breaking drivetrain conponents on a stock/near stock motor.

wouldnt a clutch that was inclined to slip just do this until it reached a point of less load and then gradually grab once unloaded enough,hence the term slipping cluch?,plus as more heat is induced into the clutch,wouldnt it want to slip more instead of grabbing and chirping th tyres under load??

Probably as you were revving the guts out of it, a clutch wont grab if you dump it at high rpms all it will do is slip (which is what you want it to do otherwise it can destroy gearboxes)

Easy and simple fix, take it easy on the clutch pedal loud pedal and the knob, theres no gold stars for breaking drivetrain conponents on a stock/near stock motor.

Yeah i understand that. I never do burnouts or dump the clutch. So it still does it even when i dont do it so i feel that its a problem when it does it for abit. then normally for ages. then stops again. Im like talking for periods at a time like months lol like not even driving hard grandma driving.

wouldnt a clutch that was inclined to slip just do this until it reached a point of less load and then gradually grab once unloaded enough,hence the term slipping cluch?,plus as more heat is induced into the clutch,wouldnt it want to slip more instead of grabbing and chirping th tyres under load??

A clutch will slip until the loaded Rpm matches the pressure plate and it can regrip, clutch fricton material is similar to brake pads, heat to a certain point is beneficial for it,, but too much and it wont grip at all. Im a big supporter of factory or near factory clutches, as they are forgiving to the gearbox, ive seen many claims come through from clowns who put the biggest baddest clutch they can in there car, dump the clutch the thing grips and smashes a syncho or input shaft from the sheer shock.

Mabey clutch the problem or bleeding it.?

Mabey clutch the problem or bleeding it.?

Again, can be a number of external factors causing this, as i said, drive it tame for a bit and not try to do lightning quick changes and see if it slips again, they are a consumable item and dont last forever sadly.

kurt, can you explain what is happening a bit better please?

Example 1: You rev first gear out at full throttle then snap second gear and the front wheels spin? This is normal. Usually means too much power for the front wheels, poor gripping tyres, poor road surface etc.

Example 2: You rev first gear out at full throttle then snap second gear and the revs rise but the car isn't actually acellerating? Then the revs drop and the car acellerates again? That's clutch slip. If this is the case, it should do it in say second gear at around 3,000rpm when you plant your foot. The revs will rise near the peak torque of the car, then fall again - it feels like free revving. In this instance, your clutch is shagged and will need to be replaced.

Please give us a bit better explanation.

For starters, is not clutch slip that gives you a chirp.

It can be one of 2 things
Dumping the clutch with high revs, thus torque is there as is the power or
If you know how to drive a manual properly, you can easilly hit second hard without putting anywhere near as much strain on the driveline and get a good chirp into second.

Bleeding clutch is totally pointless, if your system has air it will grind gears, not spin wheels as the clutch is releasing

Slipping clutch is only bad, unlike brakes, clutches do not cool down as much as there is no airflow, flywheel is heated by engine etc.

When i rev first on full throttle then snap into second straight back on the throttle in second it didnt matter were or wat surface would spin the wheel and chirp for abit. But for periods of times like week to a month max it would do the same thing were it wouldnt jump aswell and not chirp. Plus when engaging into second fast it would feel like im doing a slower gear change when this problem occured to when it would chirp but i was doing it just as fast.? Tested it today its up and down but kinda getting worse its not jumping no were near as well sometimes no chirp at all and if it would chirp it would be a little squick.

Disciple. Its like example to but no were near as bad very minor.

Disciple. Its like example to but no were near as bad very minor.
Ok. No offence dude, but I find your posts really hard to understand. :nuts:

If the revs are jumping without the car actually engaging any drive, ie: it feels like the engine is free revving, it could be your clutch slipping.

Do the test I advised. When driving along in second gear at about 3,000rpm, plant your foot. If it free revs, and feels like there's no drive, then drops back down again and the car starts going fine again, then your clutch is fried my man.

In which case, don't panic. It will just slowly get worse over time, altho you do risk further damage to the flywheel. New clutch plate and machine flywheel, she'll be good as new.

Ok. No offence dude, but I find your posts really hard to understand. :nuts:

If the revs are jumping without the car actually engaging any drive, ie: it feels like the engine is free revving, it could be your clutch slipping.

Do the test I advised. When driving along in second gear at about 3,000rpm, plant your foot. If it free revs, and feels like there's no drive, then drops back down again and the car starts going fine again, then your clutch is fried my man.

In which case, don't panic. It will just slowly get worse over time, altho you do risk further damage to the flywheel. New clutch plate and machine flywheel, she'll be good as new.

Ok i will test that. I did notice today actually doing a fast first to second shift on full throttle. It would rev slightly then go but only sometimes.

Sounds just like the problem I had a week ago, was a slipping clutch. Had a new clutch fitted, all good now.

Full power in first, chirping into second, now complaints about a clutch thats stuffed? LOL!!

Pull the box, I bet there is so much clutch dust in the bell housing that the release bearing is hanging up.

New clutch plate, bearing, etc and all should be good. But stop playing "boy racer" !! And don't upgrade to a ceramic puck clutch, with your driving style you will destroy drive shafts or the gearbox!

PS 2.6L manual clutch is good for 217,000Km if changes are done at 2,500 rpm, no chirps. What Km has yours done?

EDIT: Some of the Lancer boys treat their bog standard cars like Evos and do the clutch in @ less than 20,000Km - speaking to a workshop manager a while back - Evo wannabes want a new clutch on warranty!? No dice!! MEGALOL

Full power in first, chirping into second, now complaints about a clutch thats stuffed? LOL!!

Pull the box, I bet there is so much clutch dust in the bell housing that the release bearing is hanging up.

New clutch plate, bearing, etc and all should be good. But stop playing "boy racer" !! And don't upgrade to a ceramic puck clutch, with your driving style you will destroy drive shafts or the gearbox!

PS 2.6L manual clutch is good for 217,000Km if changes are done at 2,500 rpm, no chirps. What Km has yours done?

EDIT: Some of the Lancer boys treat their bog standard cars like Evos and do the clutch in @ less than 20,000Km - speaking to a workshop manager a while back - Evo wannabes want a new clutch on warranty!? No dice!! MEGALOL

got just over 200km on it. what about a heavy duty clutch?

you mean 200,000 km or 200 km?

A heavy duty clutch would have a higher clamping force pressure plate, putting more stress on the shafts and gearbox. You would do better "chirpies" though!

A clutch will slip until the loaded Rpm matches the pressure plate and it can regrip, clutch fricton material is similar to brake pads, heat to a certain point is beneficial for it,, but too much and it wont grip at all. Im a big supporter of factory or near factory clutches, as they are forgiving to the gearbox, ive seen many claims come through from clowns who put the biggest baddest clutch they can in there car, dump the clutch the thing grips and smashes a syncho or input shaft from the sheer shock.

Read this again Kurt it explains HD vs stock clutches.

Is he getting the message yet?

Is he getting the message yet?

Dont be a smart ass mate

I agree with magna00 . A stock clutch is kinder on the drivetrain, a worn clutch is cheaper to replace than broken drivetrain components. It is a disposable/replaceable item that is designed to work well with the drivetrain. Beef it up and other bits will break under extreme stress.

Dont be a smart ass mate

NOT being a smartypants. But for your benefit I will rephrase the question:

What have you learnt so far from this thread, and what are you planning to do?

NOT being a smartypants. But for your benefit I will rephrase the question:

What have you learnt so far from this thread, and what are you planning to do?

Out of it ill probably do a new clutch a stock type but good brand. Just hopping its the problem

Out of it ill probably do a new clutch a stock type but good brand. Just hopping its the problem

At least get an exedy not the cheapest out there (around 450-500) but will last with the abuse you give the drivetrain by the sounds of it.

Out of it ill probably do a new clutch a stock type but good brand. Just hopping its the problem
I'd get an Exedy Heavy Duty clutch. I got one for my Ralliart from megatron, maybe shoot him a PM. Feels like stock, but more clamping force.

Agree 100% Exedy HD is the way to go ! do some shopping as you can get a bargain if you look hard enough :D
I'd get an Exedy Heavy Duty clutch. I got one for my Ralliart from megatron, maybe shoot him a PM. Feels like stock, but more clamping force.

I'd get an Exedy Heavy Duty clutch. I got one for my Ralliart from megatron, maybe shoot him a PM. Feels like stock, but more clamping force.

Ill disagree, the way by the sounds of it, how he drives his car, a HD will tear through that box in no time at all.

That would be right !! you disagree with everyone..... hurry up and buy a new car !! lol
Ill disagree, the way by the sounds of it, how he drives his car, a HD will tear through that box in no time at all.

Ill disagree, the way by the sounds of it, how he drives his car, a HD will tear through that box in no time at all.
No it won't.

No it won't.

Go ring exedy then, and talk to them about sheer shock when you drop the clutch at high rpm's, because the clutch will grip, but you are putting all the power through, people on here have done box's because of clutches.


It is important to install the correct EXEDY clutch system in the vehicle. Knowing what characteristics you want in a clutch and the power capability of the engine is important. What is the vehicle used for? (Daily driving, Towing, Road racing, Drag racing, off road, Etc.)? For towing or other street use we recommend the use of the EXEDY Up rated Sports Organic disc for smooth engagement. For racing or off - road, the EXEDY Up Rated Cerametallic paddle race disc will give faster shifting, more power capacity and more durability at the cost of harsher engagement. What is the maximum torque output of your engine? Torque capacity listed in our application chart should be about 10-20% greater than the engines torque output. How heavy is the vehicle? A heavier vehicle is harder on clutch parts than a lighter vehicle. More heat is generated in the clutch getting the heavier vehicle moving.


Thats direct from there website, by the way Kurt describes how he drives his car (he can drive it how he wants btw not my car) Being that he does like to load the drivetrain up heavily he is probably better off with an OE clutch, so it cushions the gearbox.

But hey he can do what he wants tbh, but 600 for a clutch vs 1k+ for a gearbox....

Oh and the same thing can happen with your fabled evo as well, there is documented evidence that heavy clutches can kill Evo gearbox's as well given a hard enough beating.

But hey i only used to have to deal with exedy on a regular basis though, for warranty and sales.....

if the tyres can break free and unload soem torque,the clutch and box should be fine!,if not,breakage time i gather

Or he could stop waiting til redline before snapping gears, treat it properly and it wont break.

if the tyres can break free and unload soem torque,the clutch and box should be fine!,if not,breakage time i gather

Yeah, even so only takes one day for it not to spin and it does grip and bang goes the box. But w/e not my car he can put whatever he wants in i suppose.

Yeah, even so only takes one day for it not to spin and it does grip and bang goes the box. But w/e not my car he can put whatever he wants in i suppose.

too true mate

too true mate

Who said i was putting heavy duty the way i drive obviously the stock clutch way to go. Worked out today that its probably the way i drive to why it dosent spin. My mate got in the car different story.

Go ring exedy then, and talk to them about sheer shock when you drop the clutch at high rpm's, because the clutch will grip, but you are putting all the power through, people on here have done box's because of clutches.



Thats direct from there website, by the way Kurt describes how he drives his car (he can drive it how he wants btw not my car) Being that he does like to load the drivetrain up heavily he is probably better off with an OE clutch, so it cushions the gearbox.

But hey he can do what he wants tbh, but 600 for a clutch vs 1k+ for a gearbox....

Oh and the same thing can happen with your fabled evo as well, there is documented evidence that heavy clutches can kill Evo gearbox's as well given a hard enough beating.

But hey i only used to have to deal with exedy on a regular basis though, for warranty and sales.....
I had an Exedy HD in my Ralliart and did a bunch of runs at Willowbank plus a bunch of other launches - it was fine.

The EVOs diff will give before the gearbox on a launch. I give mine a friggen caining - 7k rpm dumps and it loves it.


Who said i was putting heavy duty the way i drive obviously the stock clutch way to go. Worked out today that its probably the way i drive to why it dosent spin. My mate got in the car different story.
If you continue to drive that like, the stock clutch you put back in won't last bugger all.

I had an Exedy HD in my Ralliart and did a bunch of runs at Willowbank plus a bunch of other launches - it was fine.

The EVOs diff will give before the gearbox on a launch. I give mine a friggen caining - 7k rpm dumps and it loves it.


If you continue to drive that like, the stock clutch you put back in won't last bugger all.

Again you no doubt drive different to the OP, what works for one person might not work for the other.

and 7k rpm dumps on an Evo is just plain asking for trouble.

Again you no doubt drive different to the OP, what works for one person might not work for the other.

and 7k rpm dumps on an Evo is just plain asking for trouble.
Funny that because the guy who built my clutch, Jim Berry, who just happens to be the guy who makes all the clutches for Targa Tasmania cars and a lot of track and drag EVOs, told me when the clutch becomes shuttery to give it a really hard launch.

Stick to what you know.