I've noticed over time now, that there's been a few requests on how to wire neon lighting up so they automatically turn on/off when the doors open and close. Much like how the centre roof light works.

Well I've recently just done the rice job on my car, and have got them hooked up so it can be switched via OFF/ON/DOOR modes.

I used 2 x 30cm Cold Cathode (http://www.below-0.net/belowzero.asp?contenttype=products&menuid=453054359&parenttitle=Case%20Mods&childtitle=Case%20Lights)Tubes, which only draw a total of <300mA, so the risk of overloading the existing Interior roof lighting circuit wasn't going to be a problem. Especially since my model doesn't have factory map lights, foot-well lights, etc). This meant it was just a matter of 'tapping' in to the existing wires for the centre dome light, for constant ON and door ON modes. Next to the accelerator pedal, is some electrical wiring, along with Connector B-79, for the roof wiring harness as shown here:
http://users.on.net/~driver/aussiemagna/neons/b79.jpg
Pin 1 = The RED/WHITE wire = "Door Mode" Ground (-) return
Pin 3 = The RED wire = Constant 12V(+) supply

Now this is somewhat confusing at first, since the door pin is a negative (eg ground), instead of a positive 12V+ supply. This is because the switch inside the dome light is on the negative side of the circuit. The Red Wire, pin3, is always connected to the Light bulb. However...
* When the switch in the "door mode" position, the negative (-) of the light is connected back to RED/WHITE Pin1. (Pin1 would then go back to the door switch circuit,etc, then followed back to ground)
* If the switch is set to ON, the negative (-) of the light is connected directly to Ground (-), eg: the car's Chassis. This makes the light come on, since the car body is grounded to the car battery.
* And when the switch is off, then nothing is connected, therefore the light is off.

So using these B-79 pins 1 & 3, I added in a second ON/OFF/DOOR switch switch just for my rice lights. Here's a dodgy circuit diagram I scribbled on top of a page out of the service manual.
http://users.on.net/~driver/aussiemagna/neons/diagram.jpg

Which resulted in this little wiring harness, connected to a rotary switch. The switch mounted up very nicely in the factory foot-well light cutout that's there for the Verada's.

http://users.on.net/~driver/aussiemagna/neons/wiring.jpg

Also note that I've added a connector, to make the switch/panel disconnect-able in the event the dash needs to come apart. This will save hassle down the track I'm sure :D

Here's a another picture from behind the switch. Just to be extra carefully, the unused switch pins are taped/insulated up, just so they don't somehow short up against anything.
http://users.on.net/~driver/aussiemagna/neons/switch-behind.jpg

Now to actually make the connections, the easiest way is to use Scotch Locks (http://images.google.com/images?q=scotch+locks). This saves mucking around having to cut/solder the existing cable, which would've been quite tricky to do due to the location of the wires under the dash. Don't forget to disconnect the car battery before making the connections!!
http://users.on.net/~driver/aussiemagna/neons/connectors.jpg

So the end result was this:
http://users.on.net/~driver/aussiemagna/neons/installed.jpg :D

Hope that's helpfull :)

NOTE/DISCLAIMER: This information is provided in good faith. Please do your double checking, before attempting this. Also be a good idea to verify that your switch is wired correctly before installing too. :)

Great work man, that's really helpful!

Love the green neons too - green rocks. :D

verrry nice!

thanks for posting this, no doubt Ill be using it in future ;)

I just hope I've written it all up correctly now. :D

great work Brad - i always enjoy your completely thorough explantions and pictures, the end result is excellent too - well done mate, looking forward to seeing it tomorrow night on the QLD cruz :D

Yep the rush was on last night to get it finished in time :D

I've still got to finish/tiny routing cables....look carefully near the handbrake in the final pic :D

My other concern was the 10,000V* cathode->invertor cable being loose near the sliding seat rails - don't want to run one of those little buggers over lol


* @ SFA current

u stole my idea :( dammit next week im getting paiddddd console neons n maybs some vinyl will be done hopefully or i save up for HU i dunno ive never had this money come at me im scared what to o with it

Hey that was my idea , i just cant find where the hell that centre lams cable goes. :D


good work, driver and that looks awesome :dancin: :clap:

Hey that was my idea , i just cant find where the hell that centre lams cable goes. :D

Yeah I initally had problems finding the cable.....
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4354&postcount=32
I made this post (almost) exactly a year ago! omg hehe

The Workshop Manual is the bible of answers :)

Yeah I initally had problems finding the cable.....
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4354&postcount=32
I made this post (almost) exactly a year ago! omg hehe

The Workshop Manual is the bible of answers :)

hahahahahah

i think i should start reading the workshop mannual again :dancin:

that's some awsome glowage, where did you place the neons? It looks to me as if they're under the seat or somthing?

++++
Greeting All,

DUDE! A totally agree with Al3x....seriously awsome glowage factor there man. Im installing some neons in the foot wells as well, blue ones :dancin: . Im thinking of hooking them up to the hazard light circut with a switch some where down there....

Where exactly did you install yours? piccys?

Cheers,
--Tonba
++++

These are Cold Cathodes, not actual Neons - and hence are heaps more brighter.

They are attached to the bottom of the seat. I'll post some more pictures later. :)

Great work mate! I've saved what you've written here and Im going to make it into a PDF document for the tech articles on Aussie Magna for Blake.

This is the sort of stuff we need more of, keep up the good work :D

good work, ive always just pulled out the existing globe, twisted one wire round one side of the connector and the other round the other one and hey presto 3 second job, but only really handy if the light is not far from where the neon is to be installed...

Just a bump for anyone suscribed to the thread and whom couldn't originally see the images. I've now rehosted them on my new ISP, so enjoy!

The Lights are still going stong too :D

Damn that does look sweet.. LOve the colour. I've had some neon rods in my roof lining for almost 2 yrs now. but i did it alittle differently to you though as I just hooked it up to the centre map light and had it on the function for doors open.. Works well. As long as car off and parked the police told me there is no problemo.. Myself have used the red lighting as it was only colour available when I was eager to do it. I am currently get some led tubes for Jstyle friend in jap land.. They are sweet as. My partner uses their under car kit and its awesome. Colour changing control and patterns.

Anyways awesome job done, you should be proud of your efforts. Later
Mel

Ps this shot was taken only late afternoon. And remember I am only a chick trying to fit in..

:bowrofl: :bowrofl:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y22/coldfrog/PB070076.jpg

that looks sweet dude, think ill be getting some cold cathodes soon to do something like this,
if i get those dual kits that snrr was selling would i only need one dual kit and split them to use one under each seat?

Ahh yes, be carefull with dual kits! The wiring is probably not long enough, as only one invertor is supplied and the high voltage invertor to Cathode tube wiring is normally not that lengthy.

Mine was originally a dual kit, but then I hit that problem. Foreunately i already had 2 seperate Cold Cathodes kits in my computer at the time, so I did a swap for seperate Invertors for each tube/seat.

Ahh yes, be carefull with dual kits! The wiring is probably not long enough, as only one invertor is supplied and the high voltage invertor to Cathode tube wiring is normally not that lengthy.

Mine was originally a dual kit, but then I hit that problem. Foreunately i already had 2 seperate Cold Cathodes kits in my computer at the time, so I did a swap for seperate Invertors for each tube/seat.

yeah the white wires that connect the tube to the inverter shouldn't be tampered with, coz the inverters are putting out..what, 110 volts or something crazy like that.

i've snapped a few cold cathode tubes in my lifetime :(

Just a word of advice. Don't swap inverters and cold cathodes around unless they are the exact same type and brand. There are many accounts of fires happening becasue of this but becasue they are in computers i guess its not that bad. In a car with carpet and other flamables around, you could be cooking quite quickly.

The inverters put out 10,000+ volts IIRC. Very low ampage though. My swap around was with units of the same brand, however michaelhaynes110's point is extremely valid!

I've had a few PM's about this...

Q. Do I need an Inverter for each Cold Cathode Tube?
A. Yes, each CC Tube needs an Inverter. However some dual kits come with a single inverter, that has the power to drive two tubes.

Q. Where do buy scotch locks from?
A. Try Jaycar, Dick Smith, Autobarn, Supercheap

Q. Where do buy Cold Cathodes from?
A. I'd use computer case modding ones. You'll find them at a real computer shops - eg, places that sell just computers. Although they probably sell them now for a price anyway.

Q. Are all Cold Cathodes the same?
A. Pretty much. However Jaycar for example sell some really cheap CC's. These are just the bare tube and aren't protected in a plastic tube like most computer CC's are. I managed to snap the 30cm Jaycar CC tube that I had whilst trying to mount it. Something to consider.

i just took my interior light out and ran them up though the roof then down the door :) nice work but

Thanks for the walkthrough. really helped. however im up to almost the last sage and have it so that if i touch the wires that should be attached to the new switch together the neons(2) turn on but if i wire it up with the switch in, the led in the switch turns on but the neons dont. would this be the led is drawing to much current(i didnt think that was possible for a single LED or something else entirely. maybe i should just go get a simpler switch....
Stormie (1995 TS)

thread mine FTW lol

Thanks for the walkthrough. really helped. however im up to almost the last sage and have it so that if i touch the wires that should be attached to the new switch together the neons(2) turn on but if i wire it up with the switch in, the led in the switch turns on but the neons dont. would this be the led is drawing to much current(i didnt think that was possible for a single LED or something else entirely. maybe i should just go get a simpler switch....
Stormie (1995 TS)
Sounds like you've hooked the power up to the wrong prong on the switch.

Hey good work looks nice, wanting to do this to my car, although personal preference either white or blue, not much of a fan of the green.

Question for my cluelessness.... WTF is a scotch lock? I guess its some type of electrical connector or something, anyone car to give a bit more info?

Cheers,

Ollie

Sounds like you've hooked the power up to the wrong prong on the switch.
Na its all good i figured out that id bought a switch that was only capable of on/off and that the third prong was for the led earth. fixed it up now by installing a second switch (rather clumsy but i didnt really want to waste the switches i already had available). next project... hmm can you switch the colour on the dash interior light? if so is it hard?

Question for my cluelessness.... WTF is a scotch lock? I guess its some type of electrical connector or something, anyone car to give a bit more info?


It's a simple splice connector, that can tap in to the existing wire without disconnecting it.
The are the white connectors shown in the 2nd last photo.

hm i got this done at WOW. never again...

First of all it took them about 2 hours more than they said it would.

Then they somehow mixed up the wiring with the headlights!!! they came on when i turned my headlights on and then my headlights would not turn off untill i turned off the engine and restarted the engine.

I took it back to them and a few hours later they told me it was fixed.

Now I have just realised that if I turn my door light to the off position, the neons come on. :nuts:

crazy mofos... didnt even get an appology from them.

:rant: over

i just noticed this, in relation to my two switch neon installation, between the four options available with two switchs (on/on, on/off, off/on, off,off), i can set the neons to on/off/door or turn the stock interior lights and neons on together (without turning around and reaching up). all with only a slight modification to Drivers setup(outlined post 1). Bonus...

reopening old threat.. i have cigarette lighter neons.. how do i remove the cig lighter part to connect wires to +ve and -ve of car? I've tried just cutting them however they don't run.. do i need some sort of resister or something?

reopening old threat.. i have cigarette lighter neons.. how do i remove the cig lighter part to connect wires to +ve and -ve of car? I've tried just cutting them however they don't run.. do i need some sort of resister or something?

the benefits of being subscribed to ancient threads!
um there shouldnt be any problem after you snip the ciggie lighter part off (though when installing make sure you put a fuse in as quite often the fuse is housed in the ciggie lighter connection.
i assume it was working prior to you giving it the cut?
grab a multimeter and check that the wire you are connecting as the positive is carrying sufficient current. and then just run the negative onto the cars body. can test the neon is still functioning by attaching it directly onto the battery. also check your polarity is right as it is not reversible (from memory) with neons. (or maybe that was leds... or both?)

the benefits of being subscribed to ancient threads!
um there shouldnt be any problem after you snip the ciggie lighter part off (though when installing make sure you put a fuse in as quite often the fuse is housed in the ciggie lighter connection.
i assume it was working prior to you giving it the cut?
grab a multimeter and check that the wire you are connecting as the positive is carrying sufficient current. and then just run the negative onto the cars body. can test the neon is still functioning by attaching it directly onto the battery. also check your polarity is right as it is not reversible (from memory) with neons. (or maybe that was leds... or both?)

yeah.. they work as when i connect them back up to part i cut off they work.. i have done this just to get them working again.. i want them through a switch and do as described to have them cum on when the doors open, however i can't get them to work with just the wires.. :( Hence i was wondering if the cig lighter part does something to the current so that they work. Most of the ones I've seen in super cheap or autobahn have cig lighter connecters so there must be an easy way to remove this..

yeah.. they work as when i connect them back up to part i cut off they work.. i have done this just to get them working again.. i want them through a switch and do as described to have them cum on when the doors open, however i can't get them to work with just the wires.. :( Hence i was wondering if the cig lighter part does something to the current so that they work. Most of the ones I've seen in super cheap or autobahn have cig lighter connecters so there must be an easy way to remove this..

its going back a long time since i played with neons but i do def remember that i just cut the ciggy lighter end off. and the remains should function.
id firstly just double check to a few different power sources that the tube isnt working. (as i said before open the bonnet and attach direct to the battery)
if it def isnt then id dissassemble the ciggie lighter adaptor and see if there is anything. a standard one will just be the wires running into the two contact possibly with a fuse in the middle if there is anything else this maybe changing the voltage etc and may need relocating.
edit, how closely are you trying to follow this guide, cuz it was written for the second gen
lastly could get a female ciggie ligter and wire that in (temp) to check that wherever you are installing to is suitable

its going back a long time since i played with neons but i do def remember that i just cut the ciggy lighter end off. and the remains should function.
id firstly just double check to a few different power sources that the tube isnt working. (as i said before open the bonnet and attach direct to the battery)
if it def isnt then id dissassemble the ciggie lighter adaptor and see if there is anything. a standard one will just be the wires running into the two contact possibly with a fuse in the middle if there is anything else this maybe changing the voltage etc and may need relocating.
edit, how closely are you trying to follow this guide, cuz it was written for the second gen
lastly could get a female ciggie ligter and wire that in (temp) to check that wherever you are installing to is suitable

following idea only.. I wanna hook up to dome light and if i can't tap in near drivers kick panel, then i'll try near the door under the seat.. I'll try cutting the cig lighter off again, but i'm sure it didn't work last time as i tried running through a switch. mind u, i have the under body neons working off a switch as they just had wires.. I'm finish work now, going out to get dirty.. thanx 4 yr help. :P

so i took the little door switch out and put a wire to one of them.. it goes +ve when door is closed which means neons would turn on when i close the door.. i'll have to find an invertor or something that turns this the other way.. haven't yet taken apart the cig lighter parts of neons.. will do this tomorrow.. hope its easy.. had to remove sports muffler for upcoming trip next week.