Hi all, Been a long time since i have posted. But i thought i would share a few of the mods i have done in the past few weeks.
Finally upgraded the brakes with 380 gear up front, and a new dvd headunit.
Next up new shocks all round.

Cheers
John

woah those rims look awesome nice looking car mate.

Is it much work and expensive to do a boot popper thing like yours?

woah those rims look awesome nice looking car mate.

Is it much work and expensive to do a boot popper thing like yours?
Its like $20 for some hinges from bunnings, he did a write up on it im sure, do a search for his username.
Been a while dude you used to post heaps on here!

Nice boot mod. And welcome to the "wheels that are frowned upon division" :P

ive only just joined tuffter :( lol

ive only just joined tuffter :( lol
tufftr is talking about temagna i think.. welcome to club BTW magna sports 1999

woah those rims look awesome nice looking car mate.

Is it much work and expensive to do a boot popper thing like yours?

Thanks mate, as TUFFTR said its a very cheap mod to do. Just have a search for "Flip Boot Mod".
Just make sure you line everything up, and you will be right.

John

']Its like $20 for some hinges from bunnings, he did a write up on it im sure, do a search for his username.
Been a while dude you used to post heaps on here!

Yeah i did, but moving around a bit and having no net hasnt helped, but im back now :badgrin:

Hi temagna

Just A Question
What Is
Barry's Fuel Lean Out Kit?
Barry's Body Groubding Kit?

Thanks
Sumpoiler (Trev)

Hi temagna

Just A Question
What Is
Barry's Fuel Lean Out Kit?
Barry's Body Groubding Kit?

Thanks
Sumpoiler (Trev)

Hi mate, Barry is a member of this forum and he developed a few kits.

The Fuel lean out kit, without going into to much detail.
It replaces the original plastic spacers between the fuel rail and the inlet with alloy spacers.

The body grounding kit, is an earthing kit providing more earthing points. For memory and dont quote me, i think standard there is about 4 earthing points from the motor to the body, mine now has around 8. It doesnt sound like much, but it probably is the best mod i have done to the car.
After installing the kit the car was so much more responsive.

If you want to know more just send "Barry" a pm. He is very helpful.

Hope this helps
John

Hi temagna

Just A Question
What Is
Barry's Fuel Lean Out Kit?
Barry's Body Groubding Kit?

Thanks
Sumpoiler (Trev)

Hi Trev

The Fuel Lean-out kit is a do-it-yourself kit that helps overcome the flat spot in the 1500rpm to 2500rpm range when using a high-flow air filter

The grounding kit is also a DIY kit that improves the rough idle issues and throttle response in 3rd Gens, especially noticeable in tiptronic and auto Tx's

If you PM me a full description of your vehicle, including any mods I can tell you which ones will be most beneficial

Cheers, Barry

Can someone explain to me how more earths improve engine response?

Can someone explain to me how more earths improve engine response?

Possibly because the Mitsubishi Automatics are heavily electronically controlled.

why would they let them out of the factory with a rough idle issue if a earth wire fix was the cure?? i belive the rough idle comes from the crankangle sensor constantly telling the ecu to adjust timing minutely. just a theory. i just struggle to see why mitsi would let an easy fix like this pass. im not saying the earth kit doesnt work but i ran quite a few extra cables and had zero difference. tried common earths and different points of contact. just my thoughts

why would they let them out of the factory with a rough idle issue if a earth wire fix was the cure?? i belive the rough idle comes from the crankangle sensor constantly telling the ecu to adjust timing minutely. just a theory. i just struggle to see why mitsi would let an easy fix like this pass. im not saying the earth kit doesnt work but i ran quite a few extra cables and had zero difference. tried common earths and different points of contact. just my thoughts

Hi robssei

I believe that when brand new Magnas/Veradas are released from the factory - they do perform well, and with very few issues
The too-few earth cables are managing to meet the minimum requirements

Add 2 yrs worth of slowly worsening corrosion and you now have an engine that idles badly, has poor combustion qualities and needs the dealer to routinely clean the TB and reset base idle (there was an old thread on AMC that had the 'rough idle club' - it was so bad)

Wiping a finger on the inside of the tailpipe produces a thick layer of soot (particulate) from incomplete combustion, that can also tend to clog up your cat

With an alloy engine there is always the possibility of internal corrosion, and on some older Magnas you may remove the two top bolts holding the plenum down and notice advanced white corrosion on the threads, especially if the previous owner had not kept up the scheduled coolant changes

Also, there is the dyno test of a commercial earthing kit fitted to a Magna in Performance Build-ups magazine, that showed a gain in power

It looks like you may have missed some important earthing points - AMC'ers that have the full kit have reported a noticeable difference in cruising and the engine will tend to maintain it's speed better when climbing hills

If you PM me some Pics clearly showing your earthing points, type and size of cable, I will try to sort something out for you

Cheers, Barry

very clean and sexy

Can someone explain to me how more earths improve engine response?

Hi Supra

Normally it is the smaller 4 cyl engines that show the greatest improvement from earthing/grounding kits, but in the case of the Magna 3.0L and 3.5L engines from TE on there is clearly a loss of of ignition synch between the front and rear cylinder heads

The electrical earthing kit is the most effective way to resolve this, and if at the same time you also improve the earthing of the alternator, distributor, etc you will get improved driveability and throttle response

The earthing kit I designed for AMC'ers also has superior qualities over the conventional imported kits

Instead of the 'daisy chain' approach, owners of my kits will notice that where possible, cables are continuous 'no loss' end-to-end design

This means that where there are 7 cables, you actually have the performance of 10 - and much neater, too

The cable is automotive rated and all connections are soldered for extended performance

The kit is very labour intensive to make, but relatively easy to fit and well worth the results achieved

Cheers, Barry

Barry,

Are you able to provide any discounts to members wishing to purchase all 3 of your products?

Thanks,
Dean

so if its just the built up corrosion causing problems, wouldnt cleaning all earth points bring it back to normal ?? if not, there must be a certain part or sensor that is degrading over time. just seems strange that the original earths would be sufficient when new, yet not after been returned to new condition when corrosion was found. if what you say is correct i should be able to replace the original earths with new ones in same position and gauge and get the improvement?? really interested in finding out the way this helps. i can understand the concept.

If it's any use to anyone, I've had Barry's earthing kit installed for several months.

I don't know how it improves the rough idle issue, but it works...

There is absolutely no use in a magna in earhting a dist, a temp sensor (it is closed loop to the ecu and could hang in a glass of hot water for all the ECU cares) or many other parts.

The Alt is a very worthwhile thing to earth especially on the third gen where the alt earth goes through the block onto a bracked onto antoher bracket onto the alt, perhaps the heads but I have my serious doubts about the head as well, you do not get much better than through the head bolts not to mention everything else bolted to it with their own earth such as the manifold to fire wall earth.

Again as stated before, lets see some Dyno results??

Also saw someone recently provide an extra earth to the manifold and TB, beats me why as again all electrical items are closed loop to the ECU hmmmm

Humm, on the subject.

has someone used a multimeter to measure the resistance between these points?

There is absolutely no use in a magna in earhting a dist, a temp sensor (it is closed loop to the ecu and could hang in a glass of hot water for all the ECU cares) or many other parts

The Alt is a very worthwhile thing to earth especially on the third gen where the alt earth goes through the block onto a bracked onto antoher bracket onto the alt, perhaps the heads but I have my serious doubts about the head as well, you do not get much better than through the head bolts not to mention everything else bolted to it with their own earth such as the manifold to fire wall earth.

Again as stated before, lets see some Dyno results??

Also saw someone recently provide an extra earth to the manifold and TB, beats me why as again all electrical items are closed loop to the ECU hmmmm

WRONG! Where do you think the ignition coil is? Why, in the distributor of course (it has nothing to do with the temp sensor in this case)

I know you are a very good mechanic, and I would have you service my car in a heartbeat - no question

But when it comes to electronics in a Magna, I'm sorry to say you may be confused

By giving these wild, erroneous statements you are only making the situations worse, and explanations harder for me than they need to be

There are over 70 Magna/verada earthing kits out there proving themselves with positive owner acceptance every day - so please,

take the word of an auto-electronics person of 30 Yrs experience before you post to the contrary - thanks - no offence

I had an earthing kit on my KE, Installed by Barry himself fo some $$$.

Almost instantaneous results and by the time I was back home in Newcastle from Sydney I was convinced.

Need to get my butt into gear and get another one for my KJ.

Barry,

Are you able to provide any discounts to members wishing to purchase all 3 of your products?

Thanks,
Dean

They have already come down over the past year - sorry but there is not much room to move atm

Thanks, Barry

So what exactly comes with the 'Earthing kit"?

Humm, on the subject.

has someone used a multimeter to measure the resistance between these points?

As I have posted before, resistance measurement is almost useless in this case

You have to take into account the dynamics of the situation, and that there is a diverse range of signals and current flows to be taken into account

Cheers

WRONG! Where do you think the ignition coil is? Why, in the distributor of course (it has nothing to do with the temp sensor in this case)

I know you are a very good mechanic, and I would have you service my car in a heartbeat - no question

But when it comes to electronics in a Magna, I'm sorry to say you may be confused

By giving these wild, erroneous statements you are only making the situations worse, and explanations harder for me than they need to be

There are over 70 Magna/verada earthing kits out there proving themselves with positive owner acceptance every day - so please,

take the word of an auto-electronics person of 30 Yrs experience before you post to the contrary - thanks - no offence

Mate, I will stand corrected in the case of a third gen, in the case of a second gen however there is no use at all.

I was told, and this may be wrong and if so will happily retract, that you also earth the coolant temp sensor, the throttle body and manifold. As I said, I will stand corrected if this is not the case.

I did say that there "may" be benefit on earthing the heads and I would be keen to try one of these kits out but I always see what I buy before I do buy. Offer is still open, am happy to have pic e-mailed if you are not keen to post up on the forums.

To be perfectly honest, in the case if a cast iron head there would be a definate benefit thus why on my old falcon I have the heads earthed back to the body (I also tin the mounting point on the body for a good clean contact) alloy however is a good conductor.

Would be very interested also to know why these cars are idling better with this kit on them, certainly may be the coil issue and would in fact make a lot of sense. Out of curiosity have you tried the kit in parts to see which part of the kit is actually making the difference.

Mate, I will stand corrected in the case of a third gen, in the case of a second gen however there is no use at all.

I was told, and this may be wrong and if so will happily retract, that you also earth the coolant temp sensor, the throttle body and manifold. As I said, I will stand corrected if this is not the case.

I did say that there "may" be benefit on earthing the heads and I would be keen to try one of these kits out but I always see what I buy before I do buy. Offer is still open, am happy to have pic e-mailed if you are not keen to post up on the forums.

To be perfectly honest, in the case if a cast iron head there would be a definate benefit thus why on my old falcon I have the heads earthed back to the body (I also tin the mounting point on the body for a good clean contact) alloy however is a good conductor.

Would be very interested also to know why these cars are idling better with this kit on them, certainly may be the coil issue and would in fact make a lot of sense. Out of curiosity have you tried the kit in parts to see which part of the kit is actually making the difference.

I only do the earthing kit for the 3rd Gen - haven't looked at doing one for the 2nd Gen yet

No, I don't earth the coolant temp sensor, the throttle body or manifold

An old cast-iron falcon has no relevance to the deficiencies in a 6G72/74

Most of the kit's parts are integral to the overall design

so if its just the built up corrosion causing problems, wouldnt cleaning all earth points bring it back to normal ?? if not, there must be a certain part or sensor that is degrading over time. just seems strange that the original earths would be sufficient when new, yet not after been returned to new condition when corrosion was found. if what you say is correct i should be able to replace the original earths with new ones in same position and gauge and get the improvement?? really interested in finding out the way this helps. i can understand the concept.

No, it's not the accessible earth points that are the problem - it's the internal engine components that can corrode and are not fully earthed, but we use the earthing kit to overcome this problem by external means

bary where r u? send me your number

please dont dig up old threads and post in them, their is doubt is barry is even around here anymore after his kits draw to many an argument

reading old posts for info - good
posting in old posts dormant for 2 years - bad