hey guys
recently installed a set of 380 front brakes on my car
i gave the system a full flush as i was using different brake fluid (PBR DOT 4 red bottle)
now the brakes are fine at normal braking
but when going about 60 k's and smashing the brake pedal you feel the ABS kick in but then you can feel the car lose all grip and it makes you feel your not gonna pull up then it'll regrab and stop the car
it doesnt sound like the ABS is working right as i know you can hear/feel it working
thinking maybe theres a small amount of air in the caliper still or its just me
i can also hear the wheel lock up too
thanks rob

hey guys
recently installed a set of 380 front brakes on my car
i gave the system a full flush as i was using different brake fluid (PBR DOT 4 red bottle)
now the brakes are fine at normal braking
but when going about 60 k's and smashing the brake pedal you feel the ABS kick in but then you can feel the car lose all grip and it makes you feel your not gonna pull up then it'll regrab and stop the car
it doesnt sound like the ABS is working right as i know you can hear/feel it working
thinking maybe theres a small amount of air in the caliper still or its just me
i can also hear the wheel lock up too
thanks rob

The ABS only works to unlock wheels that have stopped spinning, so you will hear them locking up.

Can you feel the pedal pulsing under foot when it engages?

i can yes

i can yes

My theory is that with the bigger brakes, it takes a bit longer for it to clear out enough oil to let the wheel move again, compared to the single caliper of the stock brakes.

I have noticed mine tends to be a bit more rough with the 380 brakes when the ABS is on.




Does anyone know if the ABS module was the same for the single and twin piston magna's?

Module was the same between the 2

I have a TF exec that did not have ABS or Twin Pots until about 2 weeks ago

I retro fitted the ABS as well as the Twin pots, you will find that the twins will feel very different and you will tend to get better braking up to near the piont of lock up. Or a different way of looking at it is to say you get a better braking range.

Is hard to explain but the twin pots are a lot easier to control from locking up with max braking efficiency. This added to the larger rotors also helps with more controllable braking, the wheel and rotor will be less likely to lock up.

Same thing on my Second Gen verada when I had this, it did not have ABS as the second gen ABS is a toilet of a system. Was always a little harder to get to lock up but the car braked a lot better than that of a single pot set up. Verada did not use larger rotors either.

With your issue, you will not find it has anything to do with fluid capacity, once you have the pad gripping the rotor, in theory the caliper would need to release further to get the wheel to unlock due to the larger pad area and the larger diameter rotor. Now since ABS does not totally release the brake on that side the braking to the wheel being unlocked is still very heavy (man this is hard to explain when you are buggered lol)

I guess the main thing is you are not getting total lock up and you are getting pulse through the pedal which shows it is all working. Believe me, the ABS light comes on even if you think about it being there they are that touchy.

yes, i can feel the brake pedal pulsing
the tyres lock up then release real quick
i can feel the nose dip down so looks like the fronts taking all the weight so the brakes have to work harder
i was just worried as the car doesnt seem to wanna pull up then all of a sudden she'll stop
it gives me abit of a scare as i heading towards a speed hump at abit of speed lol
but yeah other then that they pull up great, gives you whiplash just before it comes to a stop lol

Maybe because they brake harder a lot more quickly the car doesnt have time to setlle on its suspension, so there is a second or two there where it grip well until the weight transfers forward, nosedives a bit and setlles and then it bites very hard? Am probably completely wrong though lol

Ollie

Sorry, I just have a question to ask as i feel it better than opening up a new thread......

The other day I had to slam on brakes veryy quickly as i was going 80km/hr and a truck had stopped in the middle of the road going down a big hill. The brakes were smooth until i put all the force I could on them, where they they went completely rough. I could feel like 'grinding' though the pedal. It was really bad. But if i brake normally its just smooth, its only when i brake uber hard that i feel like im griding gears or something.
Is this normal?? (btw i have a TF with ABS)

I think my brake pads might be wearing down but could this cause the problem?

It could just be ABS engaging. I remember the first time it happened to me, braking through a dirt patch, I thought something was broken. Its pretty rough, noisy and the pedal vibrates pretty hard under your foot.

Sorry, I just have a question to ask as i feel it better than opening up a new thread......

The other day I had to slam on brakes veryy quickly as i was going 80km/hr and a truck had stopped in the middle of the road going down a big hill. The brakes were smooth until i put all the force I could on them, where they they went completely rough. I could feel like 'grinding' though the pedal. It was really bad. But if i brake normally its just smooth, its only when i brake uber hard that i feel like im griding gears or something.
Is this normal?? (btw i have a TF with ABS)

I think my brake pads might be wearing down but could this cause the problem?
Yeh when ABS kicks in it feels like you're driving on tyres with chunks missing. It's normal.

Rory - that sounds about right with ABS.

ABS forces your brakes to release a little to unlock the locked wheel, so if you simply put all your force on a brake pedal, you get a 'pulsing' through the brake pedal.

If you put your foot down on the brake and you feel it pulsing, try and release the brake pedal a fraction - you can pull up slightly quicker.

Rory - that sounds about right with ABS.

ABS forces your brakes to release a little to unlock the locked wheel, so if you simply put all your force on a brake pedal, you get a 'pulsing' through the brake pedal.

If you put your foot down on the brake and you feel it pulsing, try and release the brake pedal a fraction - you can pull up slightly quicker.


Surely by realeasing pressure on the pedal must be the wrong way to go..no way are you going to be able to modulate the pedal like ABS and once you release your foot...you are INCREASING your stopping distance ..the idea really is to not be going that fast that you have to slam on the brakes to activate the abs...and if you feel it grinding/pulsing..DONT TAKE YOUR FOOT OFF

Yeah but doesn't ABS actually increases braking distance? I thought its main advantage was to be able to retain steering in an emergency braking situation? But definitely, you should really keep the foot to floor when it starts working, so you can try to move out of the way, where possible... :doubt:

Surely by realeasing pressure on the pedal must be the wrong way to go..no way are you going to be able to modulate the pedal like ABS and once you release your foot...you are INCREASING your stopping distance ..the idea really is to not be going that fast that you have to slam on the brakes to activate the abs...and if you feel it grinding/pulsing..DONT TAKE YOUR FOOT OFF

I did not say to modulate the medal like an ABS unit.

The reason your ABS kicks in is because you have put too much pressure on the medal and are locking the brakes. This pulsing is your ABS releasing your brakes, then grabbing again (as you still have your foot firmly planted on the brake pedal).

Braking to the point just before when ABS kicks in (i.e your braking threshold) will result in a shorter stopping distance.

If you are in an emergency situation and ABS kicks in, some people that dont panic can and will release a bit of pressure from the pedal so the ABS is not kicking in, this is what I meant.

I did not say to modulate the medal like an ABS unit.

The reason your ABS kicks in is because you have put too much pressure on the medal and are locking the brakes. This pulsing is your ABS releasing your brakes, then grabbing again (as you still have your foot firmly planted on the brake pedal).

Braking to the point just before when ABS kicks in (i.e your braking threshold) will result in a shorter stopping distance.

If you are in an emergency situation and ABS kicks in, some people that dont panic can and will release a bit of pressure from the pedal so the ABS is not kicking in, this is what I meant.

Precisly, if you get lock up with non abs and you then release slightly you will stop a damn side sooner than the tool who has just locked it all up and slid

The abs does exactly the same thing for you but without you having to release the pedal (this way the padal does not make you hit that toll bar)

The grinding is not normal however. The grinding could be a few things, wear indicators in the pads ie worn pads or also could be badly glazed rotors.

The abs does exactly the same thing for you but without you having to release the pedal (this way the padal does not make you hit that toll bar)

Well played, Madmagna lol