I've been playing around with the adjustable whiteline rear swaybar on my 2002 TJ II (sedan). When first fitted I put it on the softest setting, this still left a fair bit of body roll in the back. So I moved it to medium and used the inside hole on the lower control arm bracket. This gives very responsive steering and feels great in everday use. However when you really push the car really hard, like on the limit it will suddenly "let go". I don't think it breaks traction, it just feels as though there is passive steering from the rear. Anyway it is quite dangerous.

For now I changed it back to the soft setting and left it on the inside hole on the bracket. This handles quite well. When hammering through corners at high speed the back end will step out a little, but its fairly progressive and nothing you can't control with a little opposite lock. Also you can still put a lot of power down in the corners without spinning the inside wheel too much. The only problem is the steering feels very larthagic, espically on centre, its just not very responsive.

Has anyone else done much experimenting with the rear swaybar? Can you get a setting between soft and medium, by having one side on the soft hole and the other on the medium hole? I don't think that is the proper way to do it though, but its all I can think of. The brackets that bolt to the control arm seem to flex a fair bit. Maybe they could be strengthend to be more rigid. Just looking for ideas is all and wondering what others have done.

i had mine on the medium setting for acouple of weeks
seem to handle ok and did make the rear end more stable
i currently have it on the hardest setting
alot more stable and has taken alot of the body roll out
the back end seems to wanna come out but doesnt no much how hard i drive it :)
but this could depend on spring/shock setup and tyres

I have experimented with mine a bit. When i first fitted it i did the same as you and had it on the softest setting.

It lasted like that for 5 mins. It did nothing to improve the handling. To me it still had that Magna lurch then weight transfer in the rear which has always ****ted me with Magnas that have the rear bar. For some reason the non bar equipped cars don't do it.

Then i tried the medium setting. Better turn in, less weight transfer and felt tidier but it still had a bit of that lurch...

Then the hardest. Less understeer again, much firmer steering feel, less weight transfer again and no lurch. That suits me fine but really i would like a 4th position as the thing is no where near taily enough for me. I still need a dab of handbrake if i want a bit of oversteer into a corner. It doesn't even lift off oversteer.

I think i will have to dabble in some toe out to dial some oversteer into the car. I hear that 2mm toe out is the desired amount.

Are you guys running standard springs/shocks? Mine is standard. I don't really want to lower it or anything. On the medium setting there is more body roll from the front, which i find a little strange. I'm happy with the soft setting, but would like a little more steering feel. Is it possible set it inbetween?

Yes its OK to set bar on different hole for an in-between setting.

Have you got good tyres? Correctly pressured?

How about wheel alignment? Set toe straight ahead front and rear for best response, but rear can get taily in the wet or on rubbish tyres.

How are the dampers? A lot of lurch is due to poor quality/worn out dampers.

Wheel width? The 6" wheel is too narrow for 215/60 tyre. Needs a 7" at 38-40 psi to smarten up the front end. This width/pressure improves tyre life too.

Are you guys running standard springs/shocks? Mine is standard. I don't really want to lower it or anything. On the medium setting there is more body roll from the front, which i find a little strange. I'm happy with the soft setting, but would like a little more steering feel. Is it possible set it inbetween?

im running koni reds with kings superlow/low combo, but i also have a strut brace
if your not keen on lowering you should be able to get better/stiffer springs that are the same height
this will take out some more body roll

Never experienced the snap roll, but have variable bar on medium setting on standard 215 / 60s just plenty of movement from sidewall flex as per Alan F, Now with new 235s (Thanks magna00) at 40 psi noticably better still no snap roll going quickish on the Putty Rd. I would have thought that the sway bar would not have done this, but would be due to old soft srings / shocks or the bushes. These should be the only things to change steering geometry to any degree.

Would a stiffer front swaybar counter-act the 'letting go' of the back end through corners?

I have a TJ Advance, which is stock standard, except for the Whiteline adjustable swaybar. Running Hankook 205 65 15 inch tyres. Pressures 240kpa front rear 215 kpa. Before fitting the swaybar was never satisfied with the handling.
Started out on softest swaybar setting and found it to be an improvement. Then went to middle setting, which made a huge difference. Now for about 1 week on hardest setting. Just love the way the steering feels (it feels heavier and more positive around the mid position at speed). Can now throw the car around corners, corners more flat. Also seems that on hardest setting don't get front wheel to lift on hard cornering as it did on mid setting (but need to get around more corners at speed to confirm this). I am a little concerned what it will be like in the wet. On hard cornering have on occasions noted a thump from both front end (left side on occasions and on occasions RHS) possible bunmp stops?? So conclusion to date is swaybar is well worthwhile, soft setting not for long time use, so need to decide between medium and hardest.
Does anyone know how the Whiteline bar compares to original Mitsubishi (Sports and Verada)? How does it compare to the later models TL/KL/TW/KW on which swaybars at rear were standard. What did Whiteline use as their reference point How much will I benefit from front strut brace. My thinking is to get new rims and tyres.........how much difference will this make......perhaps go for same as Sports. When I replace shocks will probably go for Konis/Bilstein (maybe Monroe as these are standard mitsubishi and probably are fitted to Sports). Not keen on lowering car.
Plan on playing around with tyre pressures and when I get alignment done will specify what I want, not just what aligner thinks or Mitsu specify.

I too am interested on your thoughts Mr Roberto on the difference between to stock TL bar and a whiteline. I don't really have any performance plans for my TL but I wouldn't mind a few handling tweaks.

I set mine on the stiffest position at installation and haven't backed off. Very firm and accurate handling on speeds up to ~80. From there on it's almost over-responsive on higher speeds, but never really wobbles much. Note that all this depends on the other suspension components and tyres. One might not get much body roll - cos the tyres slide before such lateral G's are reached etc.
Alignments: keep toe close to 0, not out at all. Both F & R camber around 1-1,5 deg neg for "normal" driving. Front toe adjustable but camber requires bolts. Rear toe also adjustable and camber requires shims/washers. :cool:

I too am interested on your thoughts Mr Roberto on the difference between to stock TL bar and a whiteline. I don't really have any performance plans for my TL but I wouldn't mind a few handling tweaks.

to me it made the rear end fell alot more firmer and doesnt tend to wobble around as much
it made a bit of difference once it on the car compared to the stock one
now im not sure what kind a changes it'll make with the stock springs