I have a couple of questions about my 03 Magna, i know its already sorta been covered

Firstly, should i check the transmission fluid with the engine, off or on? The handbook says nothing about turning off the engine.

what will happen if theres too little, or too much fluid? wears out and overheats the transmission? how long would that take?

and My car's 4 speed auto plus sports shift, when it changes gears, its very hard. it doesn't CLUNK, but the car jolts a bit, especially at 40km/h, which i assume is 2nd going to 3rd. its like a sudden rev, then drop in rpm's and i can feel my ass move along the seat. just saying before, i've driven older automatics, and they've been a smooth as silk

just wondering if its not a mechanical problem, rather than a car/model quirk

anybody have the same issue?

I personally check the fluid with the engine off, but make sure it's warm and in the "N" position.

Mine sorta jolts too sometimes and used to flare (the revs jumping thing) till I flushed the transmission.

I would recommend a full flush with Mitsubishi transmission fluid ASAP.

To get the correct level in the auto you need the engine at running temp and the engine running in either park or neutral

I generally use Park on FWD trans, on older rwd trans it was common to use neutral as the park pawl used to splash a lot of fluid around.

The reason you check it running is the dip stick is marked to show the level with the fluid flowing. When stationary you do get some run back into the trans pan and will thus get a false reading.

To get the correct level in the auto you need the engine at running temp and the engine running in either park or neutral

I generally use Park on FWD trans, on older rwd trans it was common to use neutral as the park pawl used to splash a lot of fluid around.

The reason you check it running is the dip stick is marked to show the level with the fluid flowing. When stationary you do get some run back into the trans pan and will thus get a false reading.

The ATF Dipstick has (almost) all the info on it.

When you refill from a drain. You fill to Full COLD - Reference only. Go for drive and once at temperature and on flat ground, (cycle through gears) then put in Neutral with engine running. Adjust to Full - HOT. Don't overfill.

And for the love of the Mitsubishi GBox, use Mitsu SP-III ATF.

The fill for a mits trans with filter from drain is 5.5l

No filter (such as TH onwards) 5.3l

As for trans fluid, you do not have to go to mits to get the fluid contry to popular belief, mits do not make the fluid, it is made externally. There are several good brands now making Magna specific fluid and the bottles will be marked as suiting Magna transmissions.

To get the correct level in the auto you need the engine at running temp and the engine running in either park or neutral

I generally use Park on FWD trans, on older rwd trans it was common to use neutral as the park pawl used to splash a lot of fluid around.

The reason you check it running is the dip stick is marked to show the level with the fluid flowing. When stationary you do get some run back into the trans pan and will thus get a false reading.
I found the complete opposite when I did mine. Car running and in "P" the level was unattainable due to fluid splash up the dipstick. Turned the car off, put it in "N" perfect reading straight away. I've been driving it with the fluid level adjusted using that method now for a few thousand KMs and the gearbox is faultless. :nuts:

my workshop manual says car at normal temp, idling in neutral, if ya do it any other way it reads wrong, i tried it!!! if ya do it with auto cold it reads under correct level, again tried it!!! tried park, it reads way over. same for my brothers second gen, the owners manual said neutral. he was checking with it in park and it was reading too full. drained some out and it played up. checked in neutral as per manual and it was too low, not even reading on the stick. i take mitsis word , they built the trans!!!

What workshop manual is that? I have the Magna/Verada one installed here and it says...


1. Drive until the fluid temperature reaches the operating
temperature 70–80
C.
2. Place vehicle on level floor.
3. Move selector lever sequentially to every position to fill
torque converter and hydraulic circuit with fluid, then place
lever in “N” Neutral position. This operation is necessary
to be sure that fluid level check is accurate.
4. Before removing the oil level gauge, wipe all dirt from
area around the oil level gauge. Then take out the oil
level gauge and check the condition of the fluid.
Further investigation of the transmission is necessary
if,
 the fluid smells burnt.
 the fluid colour is brown or black.
 metal particles can be seen or felt on the dipstick.
5. Check to see if fluid level is in “HOT” range on oil level
gauge. If fluid level is low, add ATF until level reaches
“HOT” range.
NOTE
Low fluid level can cause a variety of conditions because
it allows the pump to take in air along with fluid. Air trapped
in the hydraulic circuit forms bubbles which make the
fluid spongy.
Therefore, pressures will be erratic.
Improper filling can also raise fluid level too high. When
the transmission has too much fluid, gears churn up foam
and cause the same conditions which occur with low
fluid level, resulting in accelerated deterioration of ATF.
In either case, air bubbles can cause overheating, fluid
oxidation, which can interfere with normal valve, clutch,
and servo operation. Foaming can also result in fluid
escaping from the transmission vent where it may be
mistaken for a leak.
6. Be sure to examine the fluid on the oil level gauge closely.

The first step could be construed as leaving the car on, but it doesn't state either way.

What workshop manual is that? I have the Magna/Verada one installed here and it says...



The first step could be construed as leaving the car on, but it doesn't state either way.

I think the answer lies between the lines. Cycling through Gears with engine off wouldn't do much filling of the hydraulic circuit.

Bingo. also my owners manual says have engine idling, and run through gears, finishing in N.

I'll have to re-check my fluid some time, but the gearbox has been perfect like I said with the method I used.

I'm always happy to be wrong. lol

ha ha gracious in defeat!!!

Hmmm, well I checked the fluid today after driving the car for a while. Car was idling after I just cycled it through all the gears and I checked the fluid with the gearbox in the "N" position. With the car in "N" and still idling, the fluid was the exact same level as it was when I checked it a few weeks ago with the car off and in "N". The level reads half way between the two lines... | |HOT | The line before the "H" would indicate where my fluid level is. So I dunno what to make of this...

maybe in neutral strait after shut down it retains the level for a short time?? try neutral again in an hour without starting and see if it stays at the same level...

maybe in neutral strait after shut down it retains the level for a short time?? try neutral again in an hour without starting and see if it stays at the same level...
It may or may not be the same. I think what we've learnt is that checking the fluid with the car at operating temp, while idling, in "N", after being cycled through the gears will give the most accurate reading.

So again, Happy to be wrong in the pursuit of correct info. lol