The brakes on my TE are playing up.
The anti-lock warning light keeps coming on, not even under hard braking, usually going over a bump or something. When it comes on it stays on until i turn the car on and off. When it isnt on, when braking at very low speed (just before coming to a stop) it makes a bad noise, and the brake pedal feels "harder" for a second or 2. Feels and sounds like its catching on something to do with the front brakes.

Only about 2 months ago i got dba slotted rotors and bendix pads put in the front. Could Goodyear who installed them of stuffed up my ABS brakes?

i was talkin to Rav about installing DBA rotors on mine which were cool... he put DBA rotors on one of his last cars along with bendix pads said the pads ate thru his rotors something stupid... from wot you're saying about the light thing tho is that it seems to be an electrical problem. unless you are noticing a problem with braking. thats my 2 cents but i'm not qualified in any area of cars. just goin from previous experience and wot i've heard of from other ppl with similar problems

i was talkin to Rav about installing DBA rotors on mine which were cool... he put DBA rotors on one of his last cars along with bendix pads said the pads ate thru his rotors something stupid... from wot you're saying about the light thing tho is that it seems to be an electrical problem. unless you are noticing a problem with braking. thats my 2 cents but i'm not qualified in any area of cars. just goin from previous experience and wot i've heard of from other ppl with similar problems

Wha!?
i thought it was bendix pads which were combatible with DBA slotted rotors! Anyways im ringing goodyear first thing tomorrow to get them to have a look :evil:

Mitsiman,

Is the EBC gear what you sell as part of your brake upgrade kits?

HAHA.. Now you tell us! lol...

There's a Huge price difference though, if you can afford it, I think EDC is the way to go, if you can't afford it, then stick with the warped DBA rotors. HAHA.... I know my rotors are warped already, only had them for 4 months. The guy at Midas was telling me that I should check what pads are right for the DBA rotors as they operate on lower temps or something and if you use high temp pads, you'll very easily warp the DBA rotors... something to do with the compounds they used to make the Rotors or something... oh well....

Hey, Mitsiman, how much are the Brake package again? front rotors + pads + Calipers?

well i heard nothing about how easily DBA rotors warped before i forked out $400 for rotors and pads about 2 months ago! :(
This really pisses me off!
If i had known how SH!T magna brakes were i might not of ever bought one :mad:

If your ABS light is staying on, just take it to a dealer and get them to hook it up to the diagnostic computer to read the fault code.

im glad i heard about this now, i was planning on getting DBA rotors. they must really be **** bec the Bendix pads are meant to save the standard discs compared to Ferodo that perform great but chew the rotors out.

Also i reckon the 2nd gen TR/TS brakes are noticably better than the 3rd gens.

Hey I get about 50K out of my rear discs and 35K out the fronts. Ain't had no problems either. COming from a ED Foolcon wagon, the ABS brakes on my TE Alterea are heavenly!

If your ABS light is staying on, just take it to a dealer and get them to hook it up to the diagnostic computer to read the fault code.

true, but they charge the earth! :mad:

true, but they charge the earth! :mad:

when getting a wheel allignment done last week i was told my right rear wheel was cactus and needed to be fixed asap.
Goodyear today told me that its not just the wheel bearing that needs replacing like NORMAL cars, but the whole wheel hub assembly had collapsed and needs replacing. $525! :evil: :(

apparently this is what was causing the anti-lock light to come on and perhaps my braking troubles too :neutral:

Read this article: http://board.performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=67140064&highlight=warped There is an excellent explanation on how unlikely it is for a brake disc to become warped at the molecular level.

This is why in a lot of technical references it is actually called 'excessive brake disc runout' This runout is caused by uneven deposit of brake pad friction compound. Think about how you use your brakes... after you perform a hard brake, do you sit at the traffic lights with your foot on the brakes?

i very rarely perform a hard brake, maybe 2-3 times in the 2 months i have had the slotted rotors :neutral:

intersting article - basically saying that its only build up of brake pad material causing the feeling of warping,. if slotted rotors drain away that material, why are ppl still having trouble with brake shudder using dba slotted rotors....

There's a bit of a weight difference between 2nd gen and 3rd gen though.

and some of the KS came with twin piston calipers. which would be so cool if it fits TE+.

true, but they charge the earth! :mad:

If you are worried about being charged the earth by a mitsu dealer to read your fault codes, you could always do it yourself. If you are handy and confident with do it yourself repairs then get yourself a gregorys manual for 50 bucks and it shows you step by step how to access the fault diagnostic codes and a table on what they mean. Believe me its not rocket science. Anyway good luck.

Nigel

If you are worried about being charged the earth by a mitsu dealer to read your fault codes, you could always do it yourself. If you are handy and confident with do it yourself repairs then get yourself a gregorys manual for 50 bucks and it shows you step by step how to access the fault diagnostic codes and a table on what they mean. Believe me its not rocket science. Anyway good luck.

Nigel
Just as a side note, the money you will pay for a manual will repay itself at least 10 times over if your at all interested in saving yourself money and having a go yourself. Even if after reading the manual you decide its too hard, the knowledge you learn from reading the rest of the manual is invaluable, especially for trouble shooting. Just my 2 cents worths :)

I could not have put that better myself, Mark H. It amazes me that people spend hundreds and in some cases thousands of dollars on their cars by way of repairs, servicing and mods but hesistate at a measily 50 bucks for a manual. Having the knowledge of what makes the car tick can save you a lot of money down the track. Its good to be able to go to a mechanic and tell him/her whats wrong rather than pay them to tell you and risk being ripped of in the process.

My two cents worth.

Nigel

For the Melbourne Guys, we are able to get the EBC locally at discouted prices through one of the Vic sponsors.
I have the DBA with Lucas pads, have had them hot as hell, no warps, no eating of disks. The Lucas have higher operating temps than the EBC Green Stuff, they can tend to be a bit noisy but not too bad.
I will post prices up soon for the EBC rotors, unfortunatly I can only get the fronts unless someone out there knows the part numbers for the rears.
I am alo workingon a twin spot front caliper system, if it is sucessful, I will post here all that is needed to DIY