View Full Version : fuel line and distributor cap prob's
acidviper
11-03-2009, 01:47 AM
hi i have a 92 tr that the fuel line under the car is stuffed
do you recon it would be better to get a mechanic to put a new one in
or just go to the wreckers and get one from there and put it in?
i have got the old one out but it was a absolute pain in but to get it out from the engine bay
also i have noticed oil in my distributor cap and the only thing i can come up with
is the shaft in distributor is stuffed and letting oil through and i'll have to get a new one
any input would be greatly appreciated
forgot to say it is efi
86_Elite
11-03-2009, 07:14 AM
cheap fix on your distributer, pull it out, you will have to re-do your timing but thats not hard... and just take the 2 o-rings off the dizzy and replace them, see if that fixes it.... but I wouldnt think that oil could seep out of your rocker cover then around the bottom of your dizzy and into your cap?
acidviper
11-03-2009, 08:22 AM
cheap fix on your distributer, pull it out, you will have to re-do your timing but thats not hard... and just take the 2 o-rings off the dizzy and replace them, see if that fixes it.... but I wouldnt think that oil could seep out of your rocker cover then around the bottom of your dizzy and into your cap?
from what i can see the o-rings are fine, it seems to be going from the gear inside the rocker along the inside of the shaft and then into the distributor cap
Madmagna
11-03-2009, 08:35 AM
cheap fix on your distributer, pull it out, you will have to re-do your timing but thats not hard... and just take the 2 o-rings off the dizzy and replace them, see if that fixes it.... but I wouldnt think that oil could seep out of your rocker cover then around the bottom of your dizzy and into your cap?
Nope
There are 2 "O" rings that will prevent leaking outside the engine, internally there is another seal that leaks and will need replacing
Is easier to get another dist from a self serve wrecker
acidviper
11-03-2009, 08:39 AM
internally there is another seal that leaks and will need replacing
Is easier to get another dist from a self serve wrecker
that was what i was thinking just wasn't shore.
now i just have to work out what to do about my fuel line:roll:
86_Elite
11-03-2009, 09:12 AM
If your going to go 2 a self serve wrecker, you may as well bring a few tool (Clamps) and have a go at removing a fuel line yourself then you will know the degree of difficulty for changing yours. Atleast if you can get 1 good line off a wreck, you could take that to a mechanic to change for you?
Cheers for clearing up about the distributor, I was un-aware of another o-ring inside the shaft, good to know!
acidviper
11-03-2009, 10:25 AM
thanks for the help guys
i'm going to go down to the mitsu dealer and see how much for them to put a new line in and then to the wreckers to see if they have any i could get off as i need a new radiator as well, then weigh up the pros and cons of me getting frustrated putting it in or paying someone else to do it.
[TUFFTR]
11-03-2009, 02:34 PM
thanks for the help guys
i'm going to go down to the mitsu dealer and see how much for them to put a new line in and then to the wreckers to see if they have any i could get off as i need a new radiator as well, then weigh up the pros and cons of me getting frustrated putting it in or paying someone else to do it.
I'd go to a wreckers, also which line are you talking about? The one from the filter to the rail? thta's easy as pie to get off once you crack the nut on the fuel filter:P
Fuel line took me 10 mins to take out, and about as much to put in.
86_elite, its a 92 so it'd be a 4 banger (chain)
cuppas
11-03-2009, 04:36 PM
haha dont go to a mechanic. rather, lurk forums until you find an apprentice mechanic, we're used to getting paid less =P
[TUFFTR]
11-03-2009, 04:38 PM
haha dont go to a mechanic. rather, lurk forums until you find an apprentice mechanic, we're used to getting paid less =P
:bowrofl:
Hi X_FiReStOrM_x_!!! (hes a good apprentice mechanic if you live in ballara free plug :D)
acidviper
11-03-2009, 05:31 PM
']I'd go to a wreckers, also which line are you talking about? The one from the filter to the rail? thta's easy as pie to get off once you crack the nut on the fuel filter:P
Fuel line took me 10 mins to take out, and about as much to put in.
86_elite, its a 92 so it'd be a 4 banger (chain)
no it's the one from tank to filter
Mrmacomouto
11-03-2009, 05:33 PM
Why not just chop out the messed up bit and replace it with a bit of rubber fuel line and some clamps?
[TUFFTR]
11-03-2009, 05:33 PM
no it's the one from tank to filter
Ah, cant' help you then.
acidviper
11-03-2009, 05:40 PM
Why not just chop out the messed up bit and replace it with a bit of rubber fuel line and some clamps?
because it is efi so the line is under pressure and will just blow it off,
and no one can say it wont happen as i have seen it happen a few times
Mrmacomouto
11-03-2009, 05:45 PM
I did the exact same thing on my EFI v6, fuel filter was stuck on, had to cut the line and vice it to get it out, 3" of fuel line and two clamps it was fine.
Also, if Fuel line couldn't carry fuel pressures I doubt it would be legal.
[TUFFTR]
11-03-2009, 05:56 PM
because it is efi so the line is under pressure and will just blow it off,
and no one can say it wont happen as i have seen it happen a few times
Wont blow off dude, use EFI hose, and (cause I'm scared:redface: ) i used 2 clamps instead of 1 for my fuel line from the rising rate fuel reg.
I dont see how doing it down there could be any different?
MadMax
11-03-2009, 06:13 PM
60 psi - fuel line for carb engine won't take this for long - need to use certified EFI tube - will have a standards code printed on it. Steel tube ends need to be smoothened and flared. I certainly wouldn't be replacing steel underbody tube with fuel line tubing, safety first!
[TUFFTR]
11-03-2009, 06:28 PM
60 psi - fuel line for carb engine won't take this for long - need to use certified EFI tube - will have a standards code printed on it. Steel tube ends need to be smoothened and flared. I certainly wouldn't be replacing steel underbody tube with fuel line tubing, safety first!
Fuel hose from Supercheap is rated at 100PSI more then enough.
Like i said, I'm running fuel hose, i dont see why under the car will make it any different. Would you need to flare the tube though? Its still got 40ish psi going through it
60 psi - fuel line for carb engine won't take this for long - need to use certified EFI tube - will have a standards code printed on it. Steel tube ends need to be smoothened and flared. I certainly wouldn't be replacing steel underbody tube with fuel line tubing, safety first!
Im somewhat confuzzled.
Do the Gen2 Magna's have a special hose that goes from the tank to the filter with special connectors? Or is this just a normal fuel hose?
I've fitted/removed quite a few fuel hoses (to/from 500+hp fuel pumps), never had to flare or smooth anything?
wombat
11-03-2009, 07:34 PM
Im somewhat confuzzled.
Do the Gen2 Magna's have a special hose that goes from the tank to the filter with special connectors? Or is this just a normal fuel hose?
I've fitted/removed quite a few fuel hoses (to/from 500+hp fuel pumps), never had to flare or smooth anything?
Magnas secretly have 2000+hp, but the fuel hose restricts them:P
acidviper
11-03-2009, 09:17 PM
to everybody that is calling it a hose, there is only 2 short hoses on there 1 is about 3" long and goes from the pump to the steel line, the other 1 is about 6" long and goes from the filter outlet to the fuel rail.
i'm after the steel line that goes from the 3" hose to the filter inlet.
i hope this clears up any confusion
Madmagna
12-03-2009, 08:09 AM
Ok, here we go again
The Magna, be it a first, second or third gen has a metal pipe that runs under the body from the back to the front.
The first and second gen have the filter in the engine bay (much better idea) and the third has it by the fuel tank at the back.
in order to remove the pipe the front cross member should ideally be dropped so as not to have to bend it
There is a rubber hose from the tank to the pipe and another from the pipe to the engine.
Wombat, pull your head in, you are neither funny or smart and comments like that just go to show your mentality, or lack there of
acidviper
12-03-2009, 01:22 PM
in order to remove the pipe the front cross member should ideally be dropped so as not to have to bend it
thanks Madmagna will def be doing that when i go to the wreckers to grab one
[TUFFTR]
12-03-2009, 02:38 PM
The Magna, be it a first, second or third gen has a metal pipe that runs under the body from the back to the front
I know, just thinking along of what mrmacumofo said, could the affected area be cut out, and the two steel lines joined together with rubber hose and clamps?
Or is this not a safe way at all to be repairing it, curious is all
Madmagna
12-03-2009, 02:55 PM
']I know, just thinking along of what mrmacumofo said, could the affected area be cut out, and the two steel lines joined together with rubber hose and clamps?
Or is this not a safe way at all to be repairing it, curious is all
For a temp repair to get home maybe but I would not like to try it
For a perm repair to the pressure line, no way. Even if you had the lines crimped to stop the hose coming off, even a small sharp rock could turn your car into a ball of fire
Fords have in the past used a PVC line run inside the sill panel for the fuel line, this even was not used on the EFI models for this reason
Cheers for the clarification guys.
Guess I spend too much time on early RX7's lol
MadMax
14-03-2009, 05:39 AM
You could replace the steel pipe section with another length of steel pipe, but you would need to get this done by someone with the appropriate tools to create safe joints that do NOT include hose sections and hose clamps ie steel joiners. In this case factory standard is the safest option. ie total replacement of steel line tank to filter.
Powered by vBulletin™ Version 4.0.3 Copyright © 2016 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.