Thought I'd start a new thread about the lower intake mod. Did mine last week and after a fair few km's, I would definetely recommend it. RPW have tested it with proven gains so for those not wanting to go all the way with a pod, this is worth a go.
http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/2042/dscn1931.jpg (http://img27.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn1931.jpg)
http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/6017/dscn1932.jpg (http://img22.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn1932.jpg)

So does that mean you can feel the benifit now?

So does that mean you can feel the benifit now?
The car certainly feels sharper/more responsive but a second opinion would be good. I would like to catch up with Grubco sometime during the week and let him take it for a run to compare it with his non modded lower intake.

Can you explain for the non-380 people what we're actually looking at? Has something been cut out of the OEM intake?

Can you explain for the non-380 people what we're actually looking at? Has something been cut out of the OEM intake?
Sure, the 380 air box has a resonator attached to the bottom of it which is sealed (which is the part shown in my photos). It runs from beneath the box towards the ground then makes a right angle turn towards the front passenger wheel arch and is apparently designed for noise suppression.

RPW did some testing and found that cutting the end off the resonator (which I refer to as a lower intake) produces a good gain as it allows more cool air to be sucked up in to the air box in addition to the usual air intake. This process has been intiated & discussed by kj380 & specialk in another thread however I just started a new one specifically about this mod.

To access the area, you need to jack up the car & remove the plastic cover below the car which is attached to the front spoiler & then un-do the three bolts holding the resonator in place.

EDIT: The mod described results in a lower air intake very similar to OEM on the FPV F6 Typhoons. A lot of NA XR6 owners put them on their cars and they also are very happy with the result.

The car certainly feels sharper/more responsive but a second opinion would be good. I would like to catch up with Grubco sometime during the week and let him take it for a run to compare it with his non modded lower intake.
I think its unanimous Pete, This is simply a must do mod It does sharpen things up.

I think its unanimous Pete, This is simply a must do mod It does sharpen things up.
Absolutely. Its free, you cant see anything has been modified and the gains are proven.

What if I was to just cut the horizontal bit out entirely?
Save having to jack the car up etc. I should be able to get at it from the top. There is still a bolt holding it on, if it's cut right through, right?

Do you think it makes a difference up the rev range like the others said?

What if I was to just cut the horizontal bit out entirely?
Save having to jack the car up etc. I should be able to get at it from the top. There is still a bolt holding it on, if it's cut right through, right?

Do you think it makes a difference up the rev range like the others said?
If you cut the entire horizontal bit off I think it would wobble around a fair bit because there would only be one bolt holding it in place. Thats why I cut most of the horizontal part away and just left a small section along the top so I could still retain the 3 bolts. If you have access to a trolley jack, it really doesnt take that long. Removing the lower plastic tray is about 7 plastic screws (dont try and un screw them it wont work. Just prise them off with a screwdriver). Then you just need a 10 mm socket with extension to loosen the 3 bolts.

After taking it for another drive, it feels more responsive right across the range up to 6000. How much of this is real and how much placebo is sometimes difficult to tell, thats why I would like to hook up with Grubco for a comparison.

I happen to have one of these lying about from when ReyReece screwed up my order a while back. So, if anyone wants to experiment with this mod and wants a free acoustic damper as pictured to play with send me a PM and if you pay the postage its yours.

If you cut the entire horizontal bit off I think it would wobble around a fair bit because there would only be one bolt holding it in place. Thats why I cut most of the horizontal part away and just left a small section along the top so I could still retain the 3 bolts. If you have access to a trolley jack, it really doesnt take that long. Removing the lower plastic tray is about 7 plastic screws (dont try and un screw them it wont work. Just prise them off with a screwdriver). Then you just need a 10 mm socket with extension to loosen the 3 bolts.

After taking it for another drive, it feels more responsive right across the range up to 6000. How much of this is real and how much placebo is sometimes difficult to tell, thats why I would like to hook up with Grubco for a comparison.
Wow that's quite a cut you've made there. You've virtually sliced the lower half right off! I assumed the RPW chop-job was just a few centimetres, but I'm sure your version would be better.
So it goes better and a harder you say. What about the sound?
I'll PM regarding checking it out in person.


I happen to have one of these lying about from when ReyReece screwed up my order a while back. So, if anyone wants to experiment with this mod and wants a free acoustic damper as pictured to play with send me a PM and if you pay the postage its yours.
Yes I remember you got one of these by mistake back when the initial stampede for Galant intakes took off - but I thought you returned it. Hopefully you can offload it now as this new mod gets around.

Yes I remember you got one of these by mistake back when the initial stampede for Galant intakes took off - but I thought you returned it. Hopefully you can offload it now as this new mod gets around.
I offered to send it back but they said, and quite rightly that the postage would outweigh the cost of the actual 90mm intake they were going to replace it with. So they said keep it. Which was nice of them.

Hey here's a thought, why don't you guys put a 75mm holesaw through the bottom of the airbox where the resonator inlet is & put a flange adaptor on the box with a 75mm flex tube into the inner guard area. The modification would be totally invisible to anyone looking under the bonnet.

Another idea would be to remove the 90mm intake totally & block off the factory inlet & do what I said above with a pod on the end. Cheap pod setup!

PM sent to Type 40.

Yeah Grubco, I cut it like that to provide what I thought would be the largest hole to allow air to enter while still keeping the opening pointing away from the engine to try to minimise hot air getting in.

As far as sound goes, I have given the car a boot full with the windows down but still cant really hear any induction noise.

Hey here's a thought, why don't you guys put a 75mm holesaw through the bottom of the airbox where the resonator inlet is & put a flange adaptor on the box with a 75mm flex tube into the inner guard area. The modification would be totally invisible to anyone looking under the bonnet.

Another idea would be to remove the 90mm intake totally & block off the factory inlet & do what I said above with a pod on the end. Cheap pod setup!
I like the sound of the 75mm tube set-up. The actual resonator in place now has a divider thru the inside vertical section which would be restricting air flow. Your flex tube idea would get around that and being a larger diametre than the current res, it would allow even more air to enter.

Hey here's a thought, why don't you guys put a 75mm holesaw through the bottom of the airbox where the resonator inlet is & put a flange adaptor on the box with a 75mm flex tube into the inner guard area. The modification would be totally invisible to anyone looking under the bonnet.

Another idea would be to remove the 90mm intake totally & block off the factory inlet & do what I said above with a pod on the end. Cheap pod setup!
I was thinking the same thing before... If one is clever enough to adapter a flex pipe bracket to the bottom of the airbox (where this resonator begins) and dump it as closer to the inner wheel well as possible. And then close off the main intake snorkel. Plus no pod is required as the current airbox still has k&n fitted.

I like the sound of the 75mm tube set-up. The actual resonator in place now has a divider thru the inside vertical section which would be restricting air flow. Your flex tube idea would get around that and being a larger diametre than the current res, it would allow even more air to enter.
Yep thats what I reckon, was thinking bigger but I think 75mm would be the biggest that would fit between the transmission & the coolant reservior.

I wonder how it would go if you removed the panel filter & put a pod on the end of that & block the snorkel as Grubco said? Would be a lot more air coming in just not sure if the air hiting the airbox after the fllter would create any problems.

This pod setup would be totally invisible under the bonnet :cool:

These 75mm mesh adaptors can be fitted into the front plastic cover . If you have a vrx your spotlights take up this space but if fitted to an ES model it would work. 75mm flex pipe could run from this adapter to airbox.

These 75mm mesh adaptors can be fitted into the front plastic cover . If you have a vrx your spotlights take up this space but if fitted to an ES model it would work. 75mm flex pipe could run from this adapter to airbox.
I stuck one of those on my intake before I put the pod on. It was a little bit finer than that.....but GEEZ she pulled hard! The noise was unreal....felt as if she was gonna suck the bumper-bar straight of!lol

These 75mm mesh adaptors can be fitted into the front plastic cover . If you have a vrx your spotlights take up this space but if fitted to an ES model it would work. 75mm flex pipe could run from this adapter to airbox.

Specialk,

Where did you get this 75mm adaptor from?

I went into my local Mitsu dealer a few days ago (the place I bought my car from) and enquired about a replacement driving light cover - the one with a round bit in the middle of it. Unlike my Series 1 base model cover which has no round bit.

The spare parts guy stuffed around out the back for a while and came back and said 'no such thing, you have to buy the whole driving light package'. Which of course is not what I am after.

I now realise what I am after is a Series 3 ES cover. I'm guessing this should still fit a Series 1, anyone know for sure?

And does the round bit just pop out leaving a hole, or would I have to drill or cut a hole?

The adapters were for sale on trademe.co.nz Go to car parts then click on performance then type in mesh and click search. While your there check out how cheap performance cars are in NZ. I havnt actually fitted one of these adapters, it was something I stumbled onto searching the net one day.

http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh10/grubco/200320092554b.jpg
Despite the title (which I couldn't resist) there were no brutalities involved.
As mentioned earlier in this thread, Blue380 carried out the lower airbox resonator chop mod and invited me (as we live reasonably close-by) to take his car for a spin to verify what differences and gains may be present. So on Friday arvo I had the pleasure to take his VRX (leather, sunroof, manual!) for a spin.
As I have mentioned in previous threads, these two cars are identical in mods. Both have same Galant intake, K&N, Berklee muffler, same spring brand and heights, same size rims, and odometer readings are within 3,000km. Only the transmissions are different.
Anyway, on the brief cruise I felt certain that there was some small extra noise from the engine bay... but I couldn't feel any big gains on the pedal side (although I only used suburban back streets) though this is not to say that this is wasted mod; it is surely breathing better with cooler air, and because it is fully hidden and free it is still a great mod. (But no I haven't done it to my car yet).
As always, it was again a great pleasure to drive a manual 380! In manual form, with the Berklee muffler, these things sound HOT! Actually we both noticed the extra exhaust noise from each other's car (having not heard our own car driving by before), and believe the mufflers get louder with age (which my wife has commented on too).

I can vouch for what Grubco is saying.

I'm just about to hit 30,000 km in my manual 380, the Berklee has been on for about 3,000 km now, and the end cut off the lower resonator about 1,000 km ago.

It definitely pulls and sounds harder than it did before the resonator was cut. Not a lot, but noticable. And there is definitely some induction roar, although it's fairly subtle and nothing like the noise it made with the resonator completely removed.

The performance improvement could be down to any or all of three things - engine loosening up at 30,000 km, muffler freeing up or end cut off resonator, impossible to tell for sure which has made the biggest difference without 'scientific' testing.

But in my opinion all three have contributed a bit, with I reckon the resonator cut the biggest contributor.

KJ.

I should have added that both cars odometers are in the 40,000 region (Blue380s about 42,000 and mine 45,000).

Nice pic, Grubco.

Both cars are lowered, aren't they (can't remember)?

Yeah, a nice photo.
Yes, same suspension setup: King Springs SuperLow in fronts, and Low in rears. Actually Blue380/Pete did this combo first and recommended it to me, as Magnas/380s all sit higher in the front than rear... with this setup, the car sits equally as far as wheel arch gap is concerned.
However, after Blue380 did his work his rear tyres were scrubbing so he rolled his guards and raised the rears a bit. I didn't experience this, so I haven't touched mine (might have been a difference between my 35 series tyres and his 40 series tyres...)

Has anyone else tried this.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/060.jpg

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/064.jpg

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/062.jpg

Has anyone else tried this.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/060.jpg

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/064.jpg

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/062.jpg


im going to look into something similar. im thinking of tube same as that but fit it at the bottom were the resinator goes and cutting a section out in the foglight surround and have the tube sit in there.

I also like the idea that mytsgt95 & others have about this type of tubing but running it out the bottom of the airbox for the stock look. Has anyone actually tried this it yet????

I also like the idea that mytsgt95 & others have about this type of tubing but running it out the bottom of the airbox for the stock look. Has anyone actually tried this it yet????
ill be after easter. will post pics etc if i decide to go ahead with it.

Has anyone else tried this.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/060.jpg

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/064.jpg

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/062.jpg
Yeah Marty, I tried to have a go off getting that plate off, but im having a little trouble. What do you need to take off to get to this plate?

Interestingly, Dave TJ talks about 380 induction mods and more serious mods in this thread;

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64660&page=5

What he says re the airbox is virtually what Sh00t has posted pictures of.

Yep did this mod yesterday. Now i dont have to get a pod, cause it sounds just as good!

Yep did this mod yesterday. Now i dont have to get a pod, cause it sounds just as good!

Did you just cut off the bottom section of the lower resonator or did you fit a 90mm pipe in the front of the air box like the photo a couple of posts up???

Did you just cut off the bottom section of the lower resonator or did you fit a 90mm pipe in the front of the air box like the photo a couple of posts up???

No sorry i was referring to taking the lower resonator off all together. I didnt see the point of it???

Thats cool, I just cut the bottom off mine because I thought it might suck in cooler air but its all speculation I guess until someone dyno's it.

I've actually been checking out your vids on youtube for a while, I was wondering when you would pop up on this forum :-)

Thats cool, I just cut the bottom off mine because I thought it might suck in cooler air but its all speculation I guess until someone dyno's it.

I've actually been checking out your vids on youtube for a while, I was wondering when you would pop up on this forum :-)

Well I also thought about the cold air factor. But i figure now with winter and all the air outside is rather chilly. And it certainly attacks the redline a bit harder now so it cannot be sucking in all that much hot air? By the time summer comes around again I shall have the galant intake and I might try that idea from a few posts earlier

Haha, yeah my videos are rather crude. But I gathered I better add a video or two at least on my car. I was aware of this forum for a good while. Just had to arrange an email address with our IP so i could register!

Shoot,
I have had a look at what you have done and cant see how you would get a tube through. I have a series 1 VR-X and am led to believe that they altered the position of the water bottle after that. Is this true and what series is yours.

Just out of interest to all concerned, I modded the resonator before I did the 90 mm intake. That is where you notice the most difference I should imagine. Immediate improvement in throttle response and economy. Not willing to do the whole "wheel off" bit due to time constraints, I used a rather largish timber bit and drilled 5 1"+ holes in the inner guard section. Downside to this method is that you wind up getting little bits of plastic stuck in your air filter for some time after. I wouldnt go too aggressive on the cut either as you don't want to be pulling hot air in from the engine bay. When I have the car up and wheels off next time I will do a more elegant job.

Thought I might just add I decided to chop the resonator and put it back on as I previously had it off the car all together and just the 90mm intake and k&n...after 3 tanks the fuel economy has actually risen surprisingly from low 10's to mid to high 11's per 100 so I will be taking the resonator off all together again......I was very surprised as from what everybody had said it was going to source much cooler air than not having it at all like I have for the past 6 months or so! :wtf:

Hmmm...
Well that's significant.
I don't believe most of the result from experimenting unless it's done over a period of time the ECU can adjust.
You've definitely covered that angle.
Sounds like the lower resonator off is the best setup. I might try this. I'm getting 8.6l/100 ATM so haven't been too worried.
Do you get much noise cruising, because I don't want to sit on 100kmh for 50mins listening to the airbox...

Hmmm...
Well that's significant.
I don't believe most of the result from experimenting unless it's done over a period of time the ECU can adjust.
You've definitely covered that angle.
Sounds like the lower resonator off is the best setup. I might try this. I'm getting 8.6l/100 ATM so haven't been too worried.
Do you get much noise cruising, because I don't want to sit on 100kmh for 50mins listening to the airbox...

Mate she is quite as a mouse at cruising levels, even under part throttle it is not all that noticeable. However this is my opinion as I had the intake duct off all together at one stage so even with the 90mm intake on it sounds quite as a mouse to me lol

Thought I might just add I decided to chop the resonator and put it back on as I previously had it off the car all together and just the 90mm intake and k&n...after 3 tanks the fuel economy has actually risen surprisingly from low 10's to mid to high 11's per 100 so I will be taking the resonator off all together again......I was very surprised as from what everybody had said it was going to source much cooler air than not having it at all like I have for the past 6 months or so! :wtf:

Hi guys, i am very new to 380 and looking for some basic modifications. Mikey380sx - so the best result was to take the lower resonantor completely off - as opposite to cutting it? thx Marcel

Hi guys, i am very new to 380 and looking for some basic modifications. Mikey380sx - so the best result was to take the lower resonantor completely off - as opposite to cutting it? thx Marcel

Have you got the 90mm Galant intake? I would be doing this before you do the lower intake mod.

Hi guys, i am very new to 380 and looking for some basic modifications. Mikey380sx - so the best result was to take the lower resonantor completely off - as opposite to cutting it? thx Marcel

As Braedz said do the 90mm intake first, it's the most beneficial mod for the intake

thanks for the advise - i am getting the KN filter and galant intake in next week. and also tranny cooler.

thanks for the advise - i am getting the KN filter and galant intake in next week. and also tranny cooler.
You can get a tranny cooler cheap off ebay. just make sure that the hose size and fittings are correct. I went for a V8 cooler for the extra cooling for towing. I would still do the lower resonator mod, but I agree with everyone else by doing the 90mm first. As for the K and N, I have one and dont expect any gains out of it power wise. You will however notice a difference in the hip pocket after you have done 2 cleans with it as the paper ones are just sooo expensive. Keep your old paper element so that when you are cleaning your K and N (which I do over a 24 hour period to make sure it is properly dry before re-oiling) you can drop this back in to drive the car. It is really important NOT to over oil the filter. Again try ebay motors for one from the US. watch for postage and sound out anyone here if they want one too as that can reduce your costs substantially. I did this and Mecha got one from me along with someone else for cost and I re sold the rest on ebay and made enough there to almost pay for mine.

thanks 380matey - yeah i order KN filter - waiting for it any day now - and getting galant intake soon. as for tranny cooler - RPW recommends this Universal Perma Cool - Thin Line Transmission Cooler. I just wanted to know if B&M70268, B&M70264, B&M70255 would be any better or is it all more or less similar. I got my 380 just couple of weeks ago - the air filter is filthy!!! it had regular service at 60k, now its 67k but the filter looks like never been changed. i have about 15/100km 100% urban travel. i think its a little high - hoping with this simple mods to get it down.

got Galant snorkel and Kn filter - also cleaned airflow sensor while the air box out... the fuel consuption in the meantime jumped to 16.5l and after these mods dropped to 10.7l (air con on, heavy traffic driving) so overal - VERY HAPPY!!!

got Galant snorkel and Kn filter - also cleaned airflow sensor while the air box out... the fuel consuption in the meantime jumped to 16.5l and after these mods dropped to 10.7l (air con on, heavy traffic driving) so overal - VERY HAPPY!!!

Thats an impressive improvement smarc! Would be interesting to do that with 98 octane and see just how low you can get it in an urban run :)

Thats an impressive improvement smarc! Would be interesting to do that with 98 octane and see just how low you can get it in an urban run :)

well i will try... ;-) but when i see the price of 98 octane i rather close my eyes and look at 91 ;-)

just to support some facts: KN Filter is part of this success, 90mm Galant Intake and cleaning of airflow sensor... i think its worth cleaning air flow sensor as the dirt passes the filter 100% look at back of mine old filter

by the way have you seen air filter that was there (i guess since new) when i bought it?????!!!???
front
http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/6608/picture183p.jpg

back of the FILTHER
http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/763/picture184w.jpg

well i will try... ;-) but when i see the price of 98 octane i rather close my eyes and look at 91 ;-)

just to support some facts: KN Filter is part of this success, 90mm Galant Intake and cleaning of airflow sensor... i think its worth cleaning air flow sensor as the dirt passes the filter 100% look at back of mine old filter

by the way have you seen air filter that was there (i guess since new) when i bought it?????!!!???

lol yeah mate I cringe everytime I pull into the servo. How many kays were on the clock when you bought the car? Can't believe they didn't change the filter before you bought it! Mine came completely serviced with new filter and all included in the price and it only had 26k on the clock!

How did you clean the airflow sensor? I try and avoid touching it as I know nothing about them whatsoever

the car had 67k when i got it - and had last service when 60k - i also last friday took a car for extending the warranty - with this fithy filter - they did not bother ;-) mate - no clue what so ever... you cant make filter to look this dirty in 7k ;-) I had one in magna and was still reasonably clean after 25k - not 1/4 of the dirt on this one... that makes me think they never touched it...

as MS-75 mentioned in other treds - these cars where tested and abused so this is probably part of it hehe ;-)

cleaning airflow sensor - when i was dismantling Air box to cut a whole for the Galant intake - i looked in the 380 plans where it is - it a little black box on the air pipe with the cable going into it - I just released this part - uplugged the cable and inserted shue box so i can spray it for 7-9 times each side - and dont spray the other parts of the engine... then put it back in order ;-) this way you not touching it - its protected in little plastic meshed container... the other way is to take it out but it has 5 star screws and the screw driver will be a problem... i will see how to get another go when due...

cleaning airflow sensor - when i was dismantling Air box to cut a whole for the Galant intake - i looked in the 380 plans where it is - it a little black box on the air pipe with the cable going into it - I just released this part - uplugged the cable and inserted shue box so i can spray it for 7-9 times each side - and dont spray the other parts of the engine... then put it back in order ;-) this way you not touching it - its protected in little plastic meshed container... the other way is to take it out but it has 5 star screws and the screw driver will be a problem... i will see how to get another go when due...

Spray it with?? lol

with this: $25 in supercheap auto - they had it in stock in Villawood - easy

http://www.crcind.com.au/catalogue.nsf/web_brands/MAF+Sensor+Cleaner?openDocument

smarc,

My K&N gets just as filthy after 10,000k, shows it's doing it's job, so I thoroughly clean & re-oil it every 10,000k and I recommend you do the same.

You don't need to buy the fancy expensive K&N cleaning & oiling kit.

I clean mine using dirt cheap (lousy pun intended) dishwashing liquid. Give it three goes in a sink full of warm water and rinse thoroughly each time, then shake the water out & let it dry completely before you re-oil it.

You still use K&N filter oil to re-oil it, but you can buy it in a spray can for a fraction of the price of the clean & oil kit, and it will last for years. My can is now 10 years old, used it on my old TE Magna, and it's still half full.

But remember to spray it on lightly. Spray too much on and you risk fouling the MAF, and the car will run like shite.

with this: $25 in supercheap auto - they had it in stock in Villawood - easy

http://www.crcind.com.au/catalogue.nsf/web_brands/MAF+Sensor+Cleaner?openDocument

Beauty. I'll grab some and give it a try. Shouldn't be too dirty I hope :)

thanks KJ - was thinking about intervals to clean KN filter - u read my mind. in regards the dirty air filter i had (very upset about it), the picture doesnt show in its real yak!!! when I was changing paper filter on my magna after like 26k it was hardly the color of this one. and this filthy one supposed to be changed 7k ago - so i cannot believe it got this dirty after 7k.

hi guys,

this is my version of lower resonator mods...

i was looking under the car for some time and as the guard cover this area quite well from the water... i decided to create a scopish looking design that would allow the air to be forced in from the lower mesh...

i noticed improvement in sound ;-) when over 4000 rpm and still monitoring if any improvement in fuel consumption. well any ideas how to open up the the inlet hole to the snorkel? coz this one looks like a joke when you compare it to any base model falcon ;-)

http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/8374/91934083.jpg

smarc,

My K&N gets just as filthy after 10,000k, shows it's doing it's job, so I thoroughly clean & re-oil it every 10,000k and I recommend you do the same.

You don't need to buy the fancy expensive K&N cleaning & oiling kit.

I clean mine using dirt cheap (lousy pun intended) dishwashing liquid. Give it three goes in a sink full of warm water and rinse thoroughly each time, then shake the water out & let it dry completely before you re-oil it.

You still use K&N filter oil to re-oil it, but you can buy it in a spray can for a fraction of the price of the clean & oil kit, and it will last for years. My can is now 10 years old, used it on my old TE Magna, and it's still half full.

But remember to spray it on lightly. Spray too much on and you risk fouling the MAF, and the car will run like shite.
+1 on the lightly spraying. very important! I have also retained my old paper filter and run that for a day or so to make sure that the K and N is totally dry before oiling up. I will have to get some of the maf cleaner. Can you post a pic of where it is. I am pretty sure I know but want to make sure.

Beauty. I'll grab some and give it a try. Shouldn't be too dirty I hope :)

Hi Mikey,

just got the Torx screwdriver for the 380 - TORX T25 T-25 SCREWDRIVER 5 6 Point Star MASS AIR FLOW. or EvilBay http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270595441970&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

it takes about 2 weeks to arrive from EU but its worth it - i tried to spray the sensor thru the whole part but only when i took it out i realized that its not enough... the sensor part has many areas that i think must be sprayed... still waiting to see fuel figures... did the same to my wife's corrola - she said the fuel lasted almost 3 weeks of her normal driving - thats about twice as much as usually

I just tried to do the in house spray like you did and came up with an engine light after I finished. Not happy at all. I also sprayed the throttle body as well. both appeared to be pretty clean. I have also done an extended mod to the lower resonator chamber. Smarc I have noticed that you have cut yours so that you are drawing air from the engine bay area. I have cut mine off so the open part is facing the wheel in the space between the lights and the front wheel. It is well protected from water by the cowling. It will be interesting to see what if any change it will make. I previously had drilled 4 x 1" holes in the same area. I have bought 10 of those Torx drivers off fleabay at few bucks a pop. Will on sell at cost + postage to anyone interested. I must reiterate that I am not out to make anything out of this. It is just bulk buying that keeps the cost down across the board.

I'll pull a MAF sensor apart in a few days ( I have a few spare ones) and will report on what they actually are in electronic terms...

I suspect the active component may be just a silicon diode such as a 1N4148 or 1N914 (worth 10 cents at Jaycar)...but will prove it and post some pics.

If it is a diode then it just needs a wash with petrol, shouldn't need any exotically expensive sprays if that is the case.

With resonator mod - I was thinking of direct cut and way into the airbox - there was suggestion to remove whole resonator leaving the big hole and it delivers best fuel and performance - will experiment/observe further. Although at the moment it has beautiful kick anytime getting over 2700-3000 range and further over 4000 with cool sporty sound. I'm thinking to get some spare resonators to try different cuts :-)

Cool u get torx drivers - I wanted to do it myself but was not sure about size so waited to get this one first. Got y'day. U cut down time by min 100% great idea

M

i Just had an idea. OK all you smart@r$es can stop laughing now lol. Has anyone thought of actually cutting the bottom off the lower resonator and moulding or fashioning a duct hose to the front of the car to a ram? Mmm this could work. Hey Blackie do you a spare resonator to play with? I was looking at some of the after market holden V8 intakes. WOW they are very nice and sure give you a heap more KW!!

i Just had an idea. OK all you smart@r$es can stop laughing now lol. Has anyone thought of actually cutting the bottom off the lower resonator and moulding or fashioning a duct hose to the front of the car to a ram? Mmm this could work. Hey Blackie do you a spare resonator to play with? I was looking at some of the after market holden V8 intakes. WOW they are very nice and sure give you a heap more KW!!

Yes, KJ380 has done that. Probably pics of it somewhere. He ran it down to his foglight opening (no foglight on his model).
Also, I called (ages ago) a place that does aftermarket intakes for Commodores & Falcon (SS Inductions), but they don't do one for 380.

Yes, KJ380 has done that. Probably pics of it somewhere. He ran it down to his foglight opening (no foglight on his model).
Also, I called (ages ago) a place that does aftermarket intakes for Commodores & Falcon (SS Inductions), but they don't do one for 380.

Yep, I did that yonks ago, sorry no pics.
I'd need to take the front splash guard off to get half decent pics, might do so when I get the inclination.
But it only works if you have the pov pack front bar without fog lights, so not many on these forums could or would do it.

KJ.

i Just had an idea. OK all you smart@r$es can stop laughing now lol. Has anyone thought of actually cutting the bottom off the lower resonator and moulding or fashioning a duct hose to the front of the car to a ram? Mmm this could work. Hey Blackie do you a spare resonator to play with? I was looking at some of the after market holden V8 intakes. WOW they are very nice and sure give you a heap more KW!!



yeah got a resonator or two on the shelf.....

if you cut the bottom out you get so much more airflow me thinks the galant intake is not required....


I prefer what Foozrcool did by running pipework inside the passenger side guard....much more elegant and opens up the engine bay nicely...


After opening up the intake you really need to take the cork out of the cars backside by doing extractors me thinks......

those precats are shockers for exhaust restriction....

Yes, KJ380 has done that. Probably pics of it somewhere. He ran it down to his foglight opening (no foglight on his model).
Also, I called (ages ago) a place that does aftermarket intakes for Commodores & Falcon (SS Inductions), but they don't do one for 380.

Yeh Dave I love those Commodore ones eh? Would love a filthy big intake like that. I thought KJ's one went from the front of the airbox with a blue bit of ducting or am thinking of someone elses?

yeah got a resonator or two on the shelf.....

if you cut the bottom out you get so much more airflow me thinks the galant intake is not required....


I prefer what Foozrcool did by running pipework inside the passenger side guard....much more elegant and opens up the engine bay nicely...


After opening up the intake you really need to take the cork out of the cars backside by doing extractors me thinks......

those precats are shockers for exhaust restriction....

How much were the extractors fitted? Has anyone noticed a drop in torque or the torque being developed much higher in the rev range?

Fooz's intake is Awesome and he now has a huge amount in the engine bay

How much were the extractors fitted? Has anyone noticed a drop in torque or the torque being developed much higher in the rev range?

Definitely no loss, just gains all over. You are basically taking the two corks (precats) out of the engine pipes = a lot more flow.


Fooz's intake is Awesome and he now has a huge amount in the engine bay

..... all the easier to pull out the auto transmission I'm told too lol

and the $$$ for the extractors fitted?

and the $$$ for the extractors fitted?

Around $900 all up.

dont forget to add about 4-500 bucks for a rear cat if you do the RPW extractors.

else you are just spewing toxic stuff into the atmosphere.

dont forget to add about 4-500 bucks for a rear cat if you do the RPW extractors.

else you are just spewing toxic stuff into the atmosphere.

Nah, only about $200 for a replacement third cat, high flow, including extra labour if fitted at the same time as the extractors. See here: 200 CPSI METAL CATALYTIC CONVERTER HIGH FLOW CAT 2.5" (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/200-CPSI-METAL-CATALYTIC-CONVERTER-HIGH-FLOW-CAT-2-5-/110600933700?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19c0545144)

So KJ was that price including the cat?

Nah, only about $200 for a replacement third cat, high flow, including extra labour if fitted at the same time as the extractors. See here: 200 CPSI METAL CATALYTIC CONVERTER HIGH FLOW CAT 2.5" (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/200-CPSI-METAL-CATALYTIC-CONVERTER-HIGH-FLOW-CAT-2-5-/110600933700?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19c0545144)


Ebay cat? no thanks.....lol


(You also forgot the cost of relocated O2 sensor wiring also....cause you do it yourself doesn't mean that others will.)

So KJ was that price including the cat?

$900 supply & fit RPW extractors, then add another $200 for the cat & fit.
If you have a mate in the exhaust trade you might be able to knock some $ off the fitting cost.

But being as you are in NSW, you might be able to get the extractors supplied & fitted by Liverpool Exhausts and save some $.
They make the RPW extractors, but they won't sell them to a private customer unless it's a supply & fit deal in their workshop.

No-one else makes 380 extractors yet.

Ebay cat? no thanks.....lol


(You also forgot the cost of relocated O2 sensor wiring also....cause you do it yourself doesn't mean that others will.)

No probs with my cat, same as the one in the link I provided.

I thought the RPW extractors now came with all the necessary O2 sensor wiring?

Good info that. You would think that they would be able to sell them cheaper than RPW seeing they make them - RPW mark up.

I did mine last night, but left most of it in place - I simply cut the end off at about 45 degrees angled down so it sucks in cold air from the lower mesh area. I'm toying with the idea of connecting some sort of hosing/piping to get a direct feed from behind the mesh.

Has anyone opened up the cutout just infront of the intake. Is this where the main airflow comes in?

Has anyone opened up the cutout just infront of the intake. Is this where the main airflow comes in?

Chris,

A few of us have done this, some details either early on in this thread or in other threads. It seems this is where the main flow into the intake comes from, but not entirely sure.

Just guessing a bigger hole improves flow volume, seems logical, but no proof/evidence of this.

Takes a bit of work with various tools such as hacksaw, pliers & file because the metal here is fairly thick steel.

KJ.

If it is the main air intake for the snorkle it is very small. I am surprised the mouth of the intake doesnt face the main grille. Now that would let some cold air in?. Has anyone tried some piping into the box with the opening facing the grille. Might give it a try.

I did mine last night, but left most of it in place - I simply cut the end off at about 45 degrees angled down so it sucks in cold air from the lower mesh area. I'm toying with the idea of connecting some sort of hosing/piping to get a direct feed from behind the mesh.

I guess I'll have to jump in and wave the flag for my old intake mod post here: http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79712

The advantage of this approach is you get cold air from the bottom of the car without blocking off an important airflow point in front of the airbox which helps cool the engine bay. As per the thread, I did this before the 90 mm intake and it made a massive difference on it's own.
Cheers,
RG

I guess I'll have to jump in and wave the flag for my old intake mod post here: http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79712

The advantage of this approach is you get cold air from the bottom of the car without blocking off an important airflow point in front of the airbox which helps cool the engine bay. As per the thread, I did this before the 90 mm intake and it made a massive difference on it's own.
Cheers,
RG

So you've replaced the resonator with a 65mm pipe, which seems to have the same effect as cutting the end off the resonator?

TBH, I haven't noticed much difference in mine at all, but having really been fanging it in a straight line (just through corners!). I still have the AU2 XR8 220kw jobbie for straight line speed.

So you've replaced the resonator with a 65mm pipe, which seems to have the same effect as cutting the end off the resonator?

TBH, I haven't noticed much difference in mine at all, but having really been fanging it in a straight line (just through corners!). I still have the AU2 XR8 220kw jobbie for straight line speed.
Lol for straight line speed eh? that is funny!! AU awwwhhaaaaaheeeheeelmao sorry I will give myself a clip around the ear for that. Not a fan of the AU even in the V8 iteration

Be very careful here

Lol for straight line speed eh? that is funny!! AU awwwhhaaaaaheeeheeelmao sorry I will give myself a clip around the ear for that. Not a fan of the AU even in the V8 iteration

That's OK - if we all liked the same sort of car, Toyota would have us driving camrys - oops, Aurions! Horses for courses, and until I actually sat in and drove a 380, I would never have considered one. I wouldn't say I'm a convert - still love the XR8 for what it is, but am starting to really like the 380 too, but for a bunch of different reasons..

Be very careful here

Do you mean in doing the lower intake mod? Or in relation to attempted sledging of AUs? If the former, I'm interested, if the latter - water off a big duck's back.

And chrisv - love your rims - had them on my first AU XR8 (a few years ago) - they make any car look tough with the deepish dish, and aggressive spokes, and they really suit your car colour - look to be the shadow chrome version (is that another name for hyper black)?

I'm pretty sure Chris meant be careful about sledging. A few threads on here have degenerated of late and mods quite correctly made it clear it wont be tolerated.

Has anyone else tried this.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/060.jpg

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/064.jpg

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/062.jpg

After seeing the pics provided by shoot would cutting a 50 to 75mm hole in the air box & fitting a breather or a mini pod type setup be just as good perhaps, or would that create other issues?

I guess I'll have to jump in and wave the flag for my old intake mod post here: http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79712

The advantage of this approach is you get cold air from the bottom of the car without blocking off an important airflow point in front of the airbox which helps cool the engine bay. As per the thread, I did this before the 90 mm intake and it made a massive difference on it's own.
Cheers,
RG

I've been thinking about this "issue", especially the effect of ramming all the air unevenly into one section of the filter, so I did an old trick and put the pud in a box. Just finished it, so no idea how it drives, but seems to rev freely enough in neutral - will test it on the morrow (actually, today, i suppose), and see how it goes. The Pod is a TFI racing pod (got to be better than the stock paper element, doesn't it??) and just fits nicely.

So, latest mod for the "no mods it's a lease" car is pod in the box:
http://www.fordforums.com.au/photos/data/500/Pod_in_Box-med.jpg

That will just suck in hot air from the engine bay I would suggest. See how it goes on the road.

That will just suck in hot air from the engine bay I would suggest. See how it goes on the road.

I don't see why. It is in the airbox, same as the paper element - missing from the shot is the Galant intake - with it on, it would have just been a shot of an airbox.

double post

Apologies.... I thought you were going to run it 'without' the snorkle.

Well, the verdict is all good with the pod in a box. Revs cleanly, with no stutters or anything, and it may just be my imagination but seems to go better (this could be a result of increased induction noise though). For the $25 it cost me to do this, I'm very happy with the result.

As far as I recall, you're the first person to do that here - though other have fitted pods in other ways/locations, etc - but inside the original airbox is nice and stealthy.

As far as I recall, you're the first person to do that here - though other have fitted pods in other ways/locations, etc - but inside the original airbox is nice and stealthy.

Actually....http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68311&highlight=

I did this, and it ended up being more of a placebo effect than anything. Doing the 90mm intake had more of a gain than doing the pod.

Actually....http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68311&highlight=

I did this, and it ended up being more of a placebo effect than anything. Doing the 90mm intake had more of a gain than doing the pod.

Didn't realise you'd done that too (and I posted in that linked thread too) but as there were no photos I forgot about it. Possibly the better location is down behind the foglight, but a bit of custom work to do it all.

Actually....http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68311&highlight=

I did this, and it ended up being more of a placebo effect than anything. Doing the 90mm intake had more of a gain than doing the pod.

Read yours just now, and while yours looks like it's in the box, mine is. My box still encloses the whole pod, and with snorkel on, looks stock. And yes, the induction roar is still pretty good - definitely more throaty above 4000ish rpm.