Ok this was going to stay quiet but i need any advise i can get.

Im installing a sprintex kit on my ralliart.

Advise needed is.

Anything for DIY install for this kit.????????
Fuel pump location & tips for swap over walbro unit.??????????
Ecu location and tips for changing to the smt6 i think it is.??????

I would take the time and trouble to search forums if i wasnt so lazy:bowrofl:

Cheers

ECU is located behind the dash
unclip the lower part of the dash under the glovebox (held in with tree clips)
pull back carpet in the footwall around the centre console, undo the metal plate (4 screws i think)
ECU should now be insite under the plastic cover

fuel pump you'll need to remove the rear seat
should find a cover in the middle i think
undo cover and the pump should be there
the new fuel pump (walbro) is ment to be a direct replacement but may require modifacation to the mounting bracket to fit

dunno how you'll go fitting it yourself
i do know that the drivers side mount has to come out

i'm sure someone will correct me if i've stated anything wrong

cheers for that

so it was you who bought magna00s charger

Walbro is a 5 minute job and is a walk in the park as Mr_Roberto said but one word of advice unplug the stock pump and turn the car on till it dies, then remove the hose that picks up the fuel on the pump (once you have the seat out and cover removed you will know what i mean) this will stop petrol going everywhere in you car.

P.S if you get stuck PM me and i will do my best to answer your questions.


Cheers Brad

ok so the fuel pump is in LOL
Is abit of a noisy one. but cant hear it in the car atleast. :cool:

ok so i got all the gear i need today minus the pulley belt.

Have removed the inlet manifold. For those who have done a diy on the sprintex i noticed that the fuel line between the injector lines is in the way. Can this be bent? also whats the best step to take first on installing the kit , remembering everything is off and ready to go.

cheers

Yep. Use an american screwdriver (hammer) and a piece of wood while its still on the car. It sounds crude but it works. You dont need much clearance.

Word of advice - make sure you cover the lower manifold with gaffer tape or rags when you take the bolts out.

Its pretty easy to install, just hope that your engine mount bolts dont freeze in the block (eeek!) when installing the belt. I've installed these twice so I can give you a hand via PM if need be - you can fit one in about 10 hours or so.

Magna00s TB backstop blade was fouling on the SC, you may need to relieve it with a grinder if it is fouling the SC manifold as it WILL get stuck and redline your motor at a very inconsiderate time and place.

Magna00s TB backstop blade was fouling on the SC, you may need to relieve it with a grinder if it is fouling the SC manifold as it WILL get stuck and redline your motor at a very inconsiderate time and place.
+1 for this... I took about a mm off the backstop blade because mine was fouling on the blower. it still hits the backstop and now doesn't stick open.

prior to that I had tried to bend it out a smidge to give it clearance. all that did was make it stick on the cruise control arm. redline on a freshly rebuilt engine is bad, mmmkay? :doh:

cheers,
.wook

Yep - they all do it, there is a small amount of play in the TB mount, you can readjust and tighten to get rid of the problem.

ok so magna00 has explained where the oil feed plugs into but i forget easily as im dumb :facejump:

Could any1 tell me?

oh yeah and the egr connection is of no use to me so do i bung up the plug or just leave it?

which oil feed?

the blower feed goes into the blower (top drivers side, fed from the sandwich plate on the filter), the oil return comes out of the lower passenger side. but I'm not 100% sure where it runs to. it ends up into the rocker covers, but quite how it gets there is yet to be investigated. if you feel like verifying exactly where I would appreciate it. I'm kinda looking to replace that return with a line straight to the sump so I can avoid burning 1L of oil every time I go to the track!

cheers,
.wook

oh one more thing that a fellow member has brought to my attention.

Will the tune still be on the smt6 even though its been disconnected for a while?

and will the fact that its coming off an auto onto a manual play a major problem in this?

oh one more thing that a fellow member has brought to my attention.

Will the tune still be on the smt6 even though its been disconnected for a while?

and will the fact that its coming off an auto onto a manual play a major problem in this?

You will be ok the tune wont disappear of the ECU and it should be ok going from Auto to Manual but would be best to get it re tunned.

hmmm, I'm pretty sure there's no difference in the base Sprintex tune between auto and manual.

yeah that sounds rite.

my car is manual, the stock sprintex smt6 under my glove box had
a red sticker than said Fwd Auto, would imply they use the same tune on either fwd models.

I would get a retune done. I did when i went from auto to manual. Retune shouldn't cost more than $300.

ok so magna00 has explained where the oil feed plugs into but i forget easily as im dumb :facejump:

Could any1 tell me?

oh yeah and the egr connection is of no use to me so do i bung up the plug or just leave it?

you will need to block the line if it cannot be connected

ok installed wired up and started :woot:

BUUUUUUUUUT:doubt:

The oil jet that runs into the blower (oil feed line)wasnt feeding it and was pissing out the back of the hose:nuts: So when i was checking the connection the jet bolt snapped. at this stage i was panicing. but i managed to get the jet out and now need a new one.

Does any know if these are easily obtained? eg repco enzed etc?

ps. is it correct to disconnect the original map or maf sensor (not sure what its called lol) on the air intake?

because this is the only way i found it idled correctly. any info????

its all in and took it for a spin.

It aint too bad:happy:

obviously injectors and CAI and plugs also exhaust well enhance the fun times.

A big Cheers for all of you that helped on this.

you know who you are. thnx guys

its all in and took it for a spin.

It aint too bad:happy:

obviously injectors and CAI and plugs also exhaust well enhance the fun times.

A big Cheers for all of you that helped on this.

you know who you are. thnx guys
Should have done the plugs when the blower was off the car (well the rears anyway).

You will find yourself going for long drives now for no apparent reason lol

its all in and took it for a spin.

It aint too bad:happy:

obviously injectors and CAI and plugs also exhaust well enhance the fun times.

A big Cheers for all of you that helped on this.

you know who you are. thnx guys



Great to hear mate glad you got it all together now you can enjoy that awesome sound.

ps. is it correct to disconnect the original map or maf sensor (not sure what its called lol) on the air intake?

because this is the only way i found it idled correctly. any info????

Er no. It's a MAF sensor, and you need it working. Being an intercepter style ECU, the unit from Sprintex doesn't replace the job of your factory ECU, which needs a functioning MAF to run correctly. The Sprintex comes with a MAP sensor, but it's not there to replace the MAF, you need both.

I highly recomend you don't drive your car around with the MAF disconnected, as that means the ECU is running in 'limp mode'. Apart from the fact it's gutless, your fueling is probably all out of whack for the Sprintex.

And expecially don't thrash it until you have everything sorted. I also suggest you put it on a dyno and check that the mixtures are safe.

Please for the love of god, if you don't know what your doing (which your posts suggests), get someone who does to make sure everything is in order, so you don't risk major things going wrong for the sake of saving a bit of cash in the short term.

Not a personal attack, just offering some sensible advice incase you need it.

Is there a Sprintex or ex-sprintex dealer in TAS?



obviously injectors and CAI and plugs also exhaust well enhance the fun times.



Um what? Why would changing injectors and plugs make it go faster? Unless you run more boost (dont do that without going forged pistons first) and the factory injectors are running out of flow (dangerious for you motor)...IMO the factory snorkel is probably fine for the Sprintex kit..but next time it's on the dyno I'll pull it off between runs and see the result.

any other "ER UMMS" to add.? l o l to tell you the truth i dont really care its in and im pumped. I figured out the "MAF" problemand its all good and running well. hope it stays tha way lol ps what sort of injectors would you recommend

Same same but different here, My TR once only ran well with the MAF disconnected, was a vacuum leak. That might be your issue.

it was indeed.

Um what? Why would changing injectors and plugs make it go faster?

Shagged plugs and squirters?

it was indeed.
:hmm: Sweet, I just wanted to use that face, looks weird lol
:woot: Enjoy!

the standard injectors are fine for your application as it is now. if you want to chase big power raptor sell 470cc units, send tradewind a pm

im going to take it in to get the oil changed and tune checked.what oil would you sprintex guru's recomend? the kit is pretty damn good not as much as i thought it might have been but hey im still impressed. noticed that it starts losing its power when it heats up abit. so i gues cooling options is next step also. I will get it dyno'd and see what sort of power its making. Should know then if its running correctly or not.


OMG the noise is awesome (if you like that sort of thing) :facejump:

im going to take it in to get the oil changed and tune checked.what oil would you sprintex guru's recomend? the kit is pretty damn good not as much as i thought it might have been but hey im still impressed. noticed that it starts losing its power when it heats up abit. so i gues cooling options is next step also. I will get it dyno'd and see what sort of power its making. Should know then if its running correctly or not.

any fully synthetic 5w40 should see you right. oils are a very personal choice.

I use Valvoline Syn Power 5w40. costs a bit ($60/5L), but it's what I've always used.



OMG the noise is awesome (if you like that sort of thing) :facejump:

it always brings a smile to my face!! :woot:

cheers,
.wook

im going to take it in to get the oil changed and tune checked.what oil would you sprintex guru's recomend? the kit is pretty damn good not as much as i thought it might have been but hey im still impressed. noticed that it starts losing its power when it heats up abit. so i gues cooling options is next step also. I will get it dyno'd and see what sort of power its making. Should know then if its running correctly or not.


OMG the noise is awesome (if you like that sort of thing) :facejump:
As mentioned by wookiee you should only use a 5W-40 full synth oil. It's specified by Sprintex as it's required to lube the blower. I used to use Shell Helix Ultra.

The power loss when hot is just the safeguard in the tune. The ECU retards timing when the temp gets too hot to protect the engine. You'll feel it most in Summer or in traffic in hot weather. If you get a retune FFS don't get rid of this safeguard. Best thing is to put your car on the dyno and get the tuner to check fuel and timing under various engine loads. Then just get him to edit the current tune. Make sure you're also running 98 octane fuel and get it tuned for this as well.

thanks for the info guys. Yep i realised the loss of power was a safeguard which im more than fine with.

Not worth the money..... YET!!!!! get it tuned and a air scoop to release the trapped heat give it to me and it should be run in and fully tested lol

Get water/meth injection and dont worry about temps :facejump:

Get water/meth injection and dont worry about temps :facejump::stoopid:

im going to take it in to get the oil changed and tune checked.what oil would you sprintex guru's recomend? the kit is pretty damn good not as much as i thought it might have been but hey im still impressed. noticed that it starts losing its power when it heats up abit. so i gues cooling options is next step also. I will get it dyno'd and see what sort of power its making. Should know then if its running correctly or not.


OMG the noise is awesome (if you like that sort of thing) :facejump:

Few more mods and it'll go huge

Get water/meth injection and dont worry about temps :facejump:

i never liked the idea of trusting a $30 water pump with the life of my engine, and putting water in an engine goes against everything ive ever heard about engines

i never liked the idea of trusting a $30 water pump with the life of my engine, and putting water in an engine goes against everything ive ever heard about engines

Heh....

I know people running $20K engines with a water/meth injection set up......

WWII planes used water/alcohol injection.

Early turbo cars used water/alcohol injection.

Its not so uncommon, and a rather smart idea in some circumstances.

Good article - worth a read:

http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_110213/article.html?popularArticle

google it, lots to hear.

ive googled it a lot, i was close to getting a WI kit while i still owned my magna but changed my mind, i know its usefull in certain applications, like the sprintex. but i guarentee that everyone putting this on their magna would not do it if they could intercool

Spray pattern and pump pressure is very important regarding a WI injector. You'd want to get a very fine mist so it atomises efficiently when injected into the intake. There shouldn't be any problems with a well sorted WI system.

Spray pattern and pump pressure is very important regarding a WI injector. You'd want to get a very fine mist so it atomises efficiently when injected into the intake. There shouldn't be any problems with a well sorted WI system.
Yep spot on, the system I am installing runs the pump at 150PSI & will have built in failsafe. This will consist of low water level, clogged jet status sensing & manifold temperature which anyone of these will instantly switch the ecu to a timing retarded map to prevent the engine from destroying itself.

did oil and filter change tonight. shell helix ultra.
Made a big difference and by looking at the old oil its no wonder :nuts:

did oil and filter change tonight. shell helix ultra.
Made a big difference and by looking at the old oil its no wonder :nuts:

make sure you change oil and filter every 5000km now too

shall do.

good to see that its up and running

does anybody know of and or using a water/meth cooling sytem?
How much are they and where do i get one :happy:

does anybody know of and or using a water/meth cooling sytem?
How much are they and where do i get one :happy:
I have just bought a Coolingmist system, price varies on the level of kit you want (fixed injection, progressive injection, failsafes, water tank size etc). I went with the Coolingmist progressive with large boot mounted tank mainly because they had a runout on the particular one I bought. Paid about $600 for this which is about what they are normally in US$'s. I have also ordered some failsafes & another controller which is about $400. Other options are Snow Performance, Devil's Own or Aquamist which would be the main ones available. Unfortunately they are all made overseas & the exchange rates don't do us any favours at the moment.

Coolingmist who I used, have an ebay site or you can buy direct through their website but works out pretty well the same either way.

ok so i have a question for those who might know.

Below is a pic of the underneath of the top cover for the sprintex kit.

The blue circles are bolt holes that go right through the top so you can bolt it to the manifold.

The red are threaded holes that go partially into the lid?
I have no part to fit this. Is there a spacer for these holes or something or are they just there?.

http://i43.tinypic.com/10dy0pu.jpg

any1?

just had a look at some pics I took of the blower cover... I have those holes too.

nothing to be worried about I'd say.