Alright... i'm 3 hours in to the new car and already i'm having a problem with it. Well to be fair I knew about this fault when I bought it, but i'd like to have it cleared up.

The horn doesn't work. I've checked the contacts on the horn pad, which were fine. Fuse under the dashboard was fine. The horn itself, behind the bumper, was dead. So I swapped it off with a known good horn I had lying around.

It worked once. Now it's dead again.

When I tested the second/known good horn off the car afterward though (with a 12v power pack) it worked just fine. Put it back on the car again and zero, zip, nada.

So now i'm not really sure what to check. If the horn pad seems fine, and the horn itself seems fine, but it still doesn't work, then what could it be? Could it be an issue with the clock spring? Is there anything under the bonnet that I should be checking?

Cheers everyone.

- MB

Mine hasn't worked since i replaced my wheel, but i put my old wheel back on and it hasn't worked since then, I've got it to work a few times after taking it off and fiddling around with it but it will only work for like once or twice and then nothing again, im sure its got to do with the metal contacts on the back of the horn buttons not lining up properly, im over trying to get them lined up again so i gave up:P
This could also be your problem, take off the middle pad where the horn buttons are, and make sure the gold contacts that touch the metal line up with where they are suppose to touch, i think its a very fiddly job.

Check the horn relay in the engine bay, and the horn fuse in the engine bay :)

Check the horn relay in the engine bay, and the horn fuse in the engine bay :)

There's no horn relay in there (no contacts for one either) and I didn't know there *was* a horn fuse in the engine bay... :doubt:

I'm still wary of the horn pad assembly though, i'll take it off and have another look.

There's no horn relay in there (no contacts for one either) and I didn't know there *was* a horn fuse in the engine bay... :doubt:

I'm still wary of the horn pad assembly though, i'll take it off and have another look.

I know there is a horn fuse in the engine bay in a 3g, never checked for a relay though.

I know there is a horn fuse in the engine bay in a 3g, never checked for a relay though.
So why suggest it if you doesnt know it exists?
you really gotta stop posting information on these forums that you dont have a 100% idea about mate

There's markings for a horn relay there, but "only on high spec. models". Hence why it's missing from this car. No fuse though.

Checked the horn pad, couldn't find anything wrong with it. Even tried bridging the wires directly to the column with no luck.

answer is simple. get airhorns!

Worst case scenario, i'd run a relay from the battery to the horn pad and back to the horn, but it would be preferred to fix the stock system rather than go rewiring pieces here and there, adding another horn or setting up air horns...

Thankfully, the Gregorys Verada V6 workshop manual says jack **** about the horn. :roll:

Download the workshop manual off the forum and read about the horn in that.

Thanks mate, doesn't appear to be anything in there that I otherwise don't already know unfortunately.

The Gregory's manual suggests there may be 2 relays for the horn, one for those fitted with ETACS (for the alarm) and one for those fitted with SRS Airbag. Unfortunately this car has neither of those, so it either doesn't have a horn relay or they've failed to document it.

because of my SAAS wheel, the horn never worked, unless the wheel was on an angle. I just went to the Auto Elec, payed $20 and got a push button on the dash. Horn has never worked better!!

Nobody else have any input in regards to the factory horn system? Surely there's something under the dash that i'm not entirely aware of which is causing these issues...


As a backup.... provided I can't fix the factory system, i'd like it to at least work like the factory system.

I was thinking the standard Battery -> Relay -> Horn setup, with the relay trigger being connected to the factory standard horn pad. The difficulty in this involves connecting the wires:

A. To the spring behind the steering wheel.
B. To the steering column itself.

As that's how it works, with the horn pad bridging the connection between the two.

Might be talking out of my ass here so Tuffty if I am let up on me lol

From memory there is a relay but not in the engine bay, it is up under the dash on the far RHS, there should be a yellow block that holds the flasher and also the horn relay

The "X" line (XI and Elite) have the extra one in the bay but the others only have this one up under the dash. I think if you remove the lower panel under the steering wheel you can look up and see it. Has been a while since I did this though.

That's the kind of info I was after mate... cheers. :) I'm pretty sure I know the relay "block" you're talking about, it's documented in the Gregory's manual but they claim that block is only present in models with SRS Airbag. I wouldn't be surprised if they were wrong.

I'll take a look when I get home this arvo.

Cheers Mal... but there was no relay or the contacts for one under there. :doubt: Just a single flasher relay, all the spots around it were blank. I'm thinking this is a wiring or contact issue, but I may just let an electrician look over it. Of course if there's anything else to try i'll be willing to try it, but it's not exactly looking good so far.

Well ok... lets try another issue. Sticky drivers door. lol

Seems that the drivers door is frequently sticking. As in you unlock it from inside or out and pull the handle (once again, from either the inside or out) and the door simply doesn't open. It sounds like it's working, but the door remains firmly stuck shut. Usually after a few minutes of messing around, pulling the handle in and out, unlocking and relocking, the door seems to open as if nothing is wrong.

Anyone had this happen to a Magna/Verada and find a successful fix for it?

Apart from the 2 issues in the thread, the car is working just fine.

Ok guys, problem solved. I hacked off the connectors under the bumper and crimped on some new flat blade connectors to the exposed wires. Horn works beautifully now.

Not only that, it has the horn from an EB Falcon fitted, so it sounds loud and clear. Much better than the factory Magna/Verada horn.

Cheers guys. :)

- MB

EDIT: I noticed occasionally the stereo will cut out when the horn pad is pressed. Rarely, but it happens. No other lights dim or anything else is affected. Ah well... just all the more reason to replace the HU, right?