Hi There From a newbie
Love the posts there very good.

Some help would be great.

Vechile 95 TS 5man wagon exe v6 12v K&n Pod, mc cormick speical, Verada interior,Dba series 4000 Wiper slotted dics, Bendex Ultimates, Viper alarm, Big stereo and dual batt conversion. etc

I have installed a viper alarm and im on the last bit of the remote start.Yes i know its a manual but i want the run on feature for 40 degree days so if i go to the shops for bread milk etc it will stay running with the A/C on and car locked.

The car is a 95 model exe and has no factory alarm but had immobiler stickers on the rear window which were factory fitted. The key has no chip and the car will run with a spare cut standard key eg all steel from hardware shop.
From what i can gather the factory immobilizer works of the key postion on the barrel but not one hundred percent sure. If this is the case can any body help me override this so the immobilzer will not cut in when i remove the key.
The alarm has +/_ output to hook up for this option but i dont know were to do it.
So far i can get the car to crank with no key but wont start or stay running without key.

Help or suggestions welcome.

Easy!

Get a second key.

Arrive at shop.

Leave engine running, don't remove key.

Lock car with second key.

The immoboliser is an optical chopper that sends a pulse to the ECU when you turn the key. If you use a dent puller to pull the ignition barrel and a screw driver to start (old school car theft) the removal of the barrel will disengage the optical chopper (a white disc) and it will crank but not fire. In an emergency, if the immobiliser cuts in, leaving the key in for 30 minutes allows it to start. All I can suggest is that you don't cut the immobiliser wires! An ECU expert could modify the ECU to cut the 30 min delay to zero?

PS Got an exe 95 myself - ignition barrel was stiff, pulled it out, lubed it, reinstalled - no start!

Thanks
thats a new thought for the day. I love a different angle so to speak.

My alarm knows when the ign is on so it wont work bugger. but top idear

Dont want to just lock car when running need full alarm or im jusy asking for it to be stolen..
All alarm features wont work with key in the on postion..

Does the pulse your talking about just be a pos or neg or is it some sort of Morse code for the ecu.

My alarm can send a pos or neg pulse if needed to overcome the immobilizer.
Just need to know where to send it..........

Thanks heaps for your time

As you turn the key the plastic disc allows a light beam to hit a light sensitive diode for a short period of time, just prior to ignition being on. I imagine this pulse has to be a certain voltage and of a particular duration for the ECU to be happy. You couldn't duplicate this with an alarm system. Now if I had a schematic for the ECU, an oscilloscope, an EPROM burner, a laptop, the right software and an immobiliser I could read the signals between the two and reflash the ECU to ignore the immobiliser signal. . . . then maybe I couldn't!

Ring around some ECU experts and explain the situation - maybe a reflash to ignore the immobiliser section of the ECU is do-able. Good luck!

Been looking in to it a bit.

Here,s my update so far.

my main problem was working out the type of immobilizer installed in my ts exe.

I believe its a "passlock" model II but could be a type 1. Designed by GM "General Motors"

Aftermarket units are available to install with alarm modules that will bypass the immobilizer only in conjunction with the alarm so if car left running with remote start but locked the car will still shut down if alarm triggered and factory immobilizer will come back into play.

When the Ignition is turned with any key to suit eg all steel no transponder the barrel talks to the ecu to confirm its all in one piece and happy. Eg cant hot wire or pull internal ignition barrel out.

I have a viper alarm unit and believe i need a "555L bypass unit" from directed electronics to suit. About $30-$100 Bucks. But have to confirm.

Will let you know how i go.......More info on immobilizer types and bypasses at link below


http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~100917~PN~1

"When the Ignition is turned with any key to suit eg all steel no transponder the barrel talks to the ecu to confirm its all in one piece and happy. Eg cant hot wire or pull internal ignition barrel out."

TOLD YA!

I'm sure Mitsu would not use anything designed by GM - Mitsu have their own electronics conglomorate.

None of the types mentioned in your link match the Mitsu immobiliser setup. No resistor in the barrel, it is an optical chopper - allows/cuts a light beam falling on a light sensitive diode, very similar to how a computer mouse works out how fast / direction you move the mouse in. I've had the thing apart. When you pull the barrel a spring pops the disc off its shaft and it will not turn. No signal to the ECU, and no start.

TOLD YA!

Yes you did and as i stated had trouble working out the type of system it used in which you helped.

Now i have a new path to follow...##it Hot

Thanks Heaps for your time

All the best and to be continued

I still think an ECU modification to ignore the immobiliser is your best bet.

I still think an ECU modification to ignore the immobiliser is your best bet.

Yes flashing an EEPROM is always easier than a $40 kit

All good advice but i would like to keep the immobilizer as it seems to be a pain to get around so that means it works well....too bloody well lol

Does anyone know what it shuts down as the car still cranks....eg fuel pump or injector side of fuel delivery or does it shut down the spark.....or both ...

if it shuts down spark im stuffed for now but if it shuts down fuel pump that i can get around with a relay from the alarm no prob and keep all safety features.

Any thoughts welcome.

Does anyone have a ignition barrel laying around i'll pay for post so i can have a look at it.

All problems can be solved with time and effort just avoid the cost..lol

Going to see a guy at Mitsubishi tomorrow who might help....

Have to work out what doesn't work with the immobilizer active ,eg does it cut spark or fuel or both.

Or is it a real pain and just kills the brain ecu....?

i will make this work.....! lol

i want the immobilizer to stay factory and work around the remote start run on feature.

If the immobilizer has to be disconnected some way i'll take a different approach as i don't trust an alarm to do this as i have heard too many people having trouble starting there car due to faults in the system.

Thanks for you help so far.

Ok so seen the the guy.. From Mitsubishi


Got all the wiring diagrams. He was a great help to date.

Still 50/50 to get it right but the factory system immobilizer shuts down the fuel pump and coil pack power.

that's OK as i can use relays to bypass this with remote start.

Have to now work out if it shuts of the ecu or injector pulses.

Getting there......lol