Hi all,

I have a 1993 TR Magna Exec (3.0L, 5spd) sitting here that needs a few things done and i'm not sure if it would be worth it to fix (Full time student, not alot of cash, prob cheaper to buy something else). If anyone knows of cheap places not too far from mandurah (unless there is train station nearby) to get the following done then please do tell :confused:

Ok, so from what i can see the following needs attention:

Clutch (slipping under heavy load) - Automasters said $800-900 to replace?

Possibly valve stem seals? (not sure, occasional puff smoke on start up) - Had someone tell me $800 but seemed pretty steep (prob why I cant remember who they were :bowrofl:)

+ what would appear to be some oil leaks.. not sure where from (at the front somewhere) or how many but whatever it is its not dripping much (the odd drip here and there)

Is it worth it to fix? What would you do?

Thanks :happy:

If it was me I would probably add up all the costs of the stuff that needs doing and see what kind of a car I could buy for that amount, then decide which result is better,

If it was me I would probably add up all the costs of the stuff that needs doing and see what kind of a car I could buy for that amount, then decide which result is better,

Thanks for the reply... One way I'm looking at it is the car is generally clean and tidy and I suppose if I was to get it fixed then I would know exactly what the go is with the car where as I would be taking a chance on another one. Might dig around for some more quotes, If i can get the cost of the stem seals down (assuming thats what needs to be fixed) then I could almost justify it.

yeah mate, do some calculations and have a think about it but i can not stress anough to look around for your prices!

are you able to do some of the stuff yourself, their is a great download around here somewhere of the mitsubishi factory repair manual, i recommand getting a copy to everyone, have alook through and see if your game enough to have a go for yourself be alot cheaper

yeah mate, do some calculations and have a think about it but i can not stress anough to look around for your prices!

are you able to do some of the stuff yourself, their is a great download around here somewhere of the mitsubishi factory repair manual, i recommand getting a copy to everyone, have alook through and see if your game enough to have a go for yourself be alot cheaper

I've had a look through the workshop manual. I would give it a go, but I dont have the tools available and I'd probably do more harm then good :doubt:

Do an oil change and put in a litre of Moreys oil conditioner, this is a great additive we used to use in cars that we had to road worthy for car yards. It will slow down you oil leaks (possibly stop them) and will get rid of the smoke on startup. I never used to think that it would make a difference but when you think about car that sit in car yards sometimes for months on end and get started everyfew days you soon see the results. As for the clutch just drive it til you can afford to change it, then buy a kit yourself and get the mighty AMC workshop crew round to your place one weekend for drink clutch changing and epic lulz.

I know a couple of people who buy old cars (through lack of money) then replace them when they develop major problems with another oldie. Now $2000 every 9 months adds up . . . . On the other hand, if you buy one, keep it fixed up, and keep it for 10 years it works out very cheap, even when you include the price of the tools you need.

As a DIY proposition the older Magnas are a good deal, but if you need to pay a mechanic every time something goes wrong they are a nightmare.

eBay - clutch for second gen = $125. I bought one, installed it, works well.

Good things about the Magna

The V6 engine is good for 300,000 Km or more.
The interior is very tough and still looks good in most of them.
No rust.
A v6 manual is rare - no autobox problems ever - I'd kill for one!
So unless yours is very high Km it is probably worth fixing.

I know a couple of people who buy old cars (through lack of money) then replace them when they develop major problems with another oldie. Now $2000 every 9 months adds up . . . . On the other hand, if you buy one, keep it fixed up, and keep it for 10 years it works out very cheap, even when you include the price of the tools you need.

As a DIY proposition the older Magnas are a good deal, but if you need to pay a mechanic every time something goes wrong they are a nightmare.

eBay - clutch for second gen = $125. I bought one, installed it, works well.

Good things about the Magna

The V6 engine is good for 300,000 Km or more.
The interior is very tough and still looks good in most of them.
No rust.
A v6 manual is rare - no autobox problems ever - I'd kill for one!
So unless yours is very high Km it is probably worth fixing.

The engine does have high Km.. around 285k but the engine itself has never missed a beat, has always run smooth and still has plenty of go. I think I will keep it (considering I just gave it a wash and its white again :bowrofl:). I'm going to get the clutch done professionally in a couple of days as its probably the only thing I wouldnt be comfortable doing. As for the rest, I'll take it one problem at a time lol

Thanks all

i'd personally say not, i can tell you i regret the amount iv spent on my car
in the less than a year i've owned it, i've spent probably twice what i bought it for fixing it.
the amount you spend to fix these things up you may as well buy a TJ that will go and go for another 10 years before it gets to that stage

i'd personally say not, i can tell you i regret the amount iv spent on my car
in the less than a year i've owned it, i've spent probably twice what i bought it for fixing it.
the amount you spend to fix these things up you may as well buy a TJ that will go and go for another 10 years before it gets to that stage

You do make an interesting point.. I think I'll mull it over for the next week (then I'll have two weeks off to do what I decide to do).. Just out of curiosity, what are TJ's worth these days?

Edit: Its a shame I probably wouldnt even be able to give away the TR in its current condition :doubt:
Also, how long do you guys reckon I have left with the clutch considering its only just started to slip a little?

We in similar circumstance with our TR keep poping oil seals mind you while the mechanic had it we got him to do timing belt. anyway light rain my dad thought he would give it a rinse so he is backing it out of shed and there beholds a nice oil streak turn out to be a stuck valve. So we have since parked it. rego for the year seemed a waste the amount of time it was off the road ;-( Auto gearbox little clunky at times too (we found a sticker of a service that was done not long before we brought it [apprently the oil is bronze]) The thing is it was one of my dads friend that sold it to us.

My point is everytime I walk past it a think 'what a waste' as the body and interior are in reasonably good condition.

My dad thinks its funny to kick the tow bar and say "hate that car!" as in the current advertising slogan

Manual V6 - hold onto it man.

as always tuff is right, its a manul v6 def worth keeping and if you ever have thoughts of not be able to give it away, i will more than happy fly the several thousand k's to you and prove your thoughts wrong as i sure many members here would :eeek:

as always tuff is right, its a manul v6 def worth keeping and if you ever have thoughts of not be able to give it away, i will more than happy fly the several thousand k's to you and prove your thoughts wrong as i sure many members here would :eeek:

Thanks for the reply, I'm getting the clutch done on wednesday and was quoted between $700 + something and $820 which doesnt seem too bad. I've thought about it and to be honest I dont really mind spending cash on it for two reasons:

1. $$$ over time seems less painfull (although will prob cost more) then a big outlay upfront (i.e. different car)
2. Compared to the two other main cars of the era (commodore, falcon), The magna would have to have been the nicest to drive (my personal oppinion)

Thanks all :happy:

Don't you dare let someone charge you any more than about $200 for valve stem seals; that's highway robbery. It WILL stop your oil blowing probs stone dead, however so worth doing. As for oil leaks, check the rocker cover gaskets in any high-mileage car.

Don't you dare let someone charge you any more than about $200 for valve stem seals; that's highway robbery. It WILL stop your oil blowing probs stone dead, however so worth doing. As for oil leaks, check the rocker cover gaskets in any high-mileage car.

Thanks for letting me know :) I thought the price quoted was quite steep as I have looked over the forum and it doesnt seem like that big of a task and arent the seals themselves only worth like $50?

Keep it, fix it, drive it.

mmmkay?

Great model magna...hands down for the age

If you can keep the fix cost down then keep it!

If you hate working on cars etc sell it.

I find even early 3rd gens need work to be right.....
im very fussy and my second gen wont be finished until its like just out of the factory line, not far off! Then the mods start.

All cars cost money but what do you want to drive?

If it ain't new its gunna cost to get 100% right.

Is car mod a hobby or necessary?

If you just want a car from A to B Sell it and buy newer then use it until stuffed and same again.

I find a LOT of cars second hand cars have issues but still very drivable and reliable but not to my standards.

Fix what you have to and trade up unless you like the model and can do basic maintenance.

Keep it

Great model magna...hands down for the age

If you can keep the fix cost down then keep it!

If you hate working on cars etc sell it.

I find even early 3rd gens need work to be right.....
im very fussy and my second gen wont be finished until its like just out of the factory line, not far off! Then the mods start.

All cars cost money but what do you want to drive?

If it ain't new its gunna cost to get 100% right.

Is car mod a hobby or necessary?

If you just want a car from A to B Sell it and buy newer then use it until stuffed and same again.

I find a LOT of cars second hand cars have issues but still very drivable and reliable but not to my standards.

Fix what you have to and trade up unless you like the model and can do basic maintenance.

Yea after looking through some of the members rides it has inspired me to keep it and put some work into it.. tbh and call me stupid but I actually pref the look of the 2nd gen over the 3rd. As i said earlier, i'm getting the clutch done professionally as I kinda need it done asap and dont want to stuff it up.. As for the rest of the stuff and any further stuff after that I'm happy to get the tools and work on it myself.. at the very least it will give me something to do :)

Edit: to answer one of your questions more clearly.. It was originally bought as an A => B job but It has grown on me.. and as such will prob turn into a (most likely costly) hobby

I got the clutch done today.. oh my.. it feels like a completely different car to drive :eek2:

Just a quick Q to anyone who has had a new clutch done before. There appears to be little to no tension on the clutch pedal.. it holds itself up so its not flimsy but can be pressed with next to no effort. Also the distance from clutch on to clutch off is very very short and boy does it bite hard. I assume all of this is normal?

I feel like i need to learn to drive it again lol

Edit: its actually so different to the way it was before that I stalled twice trying to get out of the carpark :redface:

Is there possibly anyway to put a little bit more resistance on the clutch pedal? I'm not entirely sure I like it this way.. feels like its not there.

Will need to be bedded in a bit.....

give it a few weeks......

what did you replace.....was the flywheel machined

what brand did you use?

Part numbers would be good for all the users here if your happy and part price plus labor price.

Good to see your keeping the car as there a great model.:beer:

Will need to be bedded in a bit.....

give it a few weeks......

what did you replace.....was the flywheel machined

what brand did you use?

Part numbers would be good for all the users here if your happy and part price plus labor price.

Good to see your keeping the car as there a great model.:beer:

To be honest I have no idea what parts were used. The receipt says:

Work Performed

To remove front wheels, remove drive-shafts & necessary cross-members etc, to remove transaxle. Inspect clutch, flywheel condition & clutch release mechanism, re-assemble using replacement clutch kit. Adjust as required & road test

Amount

$879 inc GST


Overall I'm happy with the service performed and the price seems ok, not the cheapest but it does seem like a quality job and they were extremely friendly (even gave me a lift to the train station so I didn't have to call a cab). The only thing that I'm not too sure about is the clutch pedal itself, just doesnt feel right. When I picked it up, before I even looked at the car, the mechanic said to give it about a 1000k's and come back for an adjustment (no charge).. something about needing to let it seat properly.

good to hear ya keeping it and good to see yourmech isnt charging for the after work service, the blood hounds round my area areshockign for it good luck with it

Keep on eye on the pedal feel,

First thing id check is the fluid and give it a bleed for the clutch, might have a bit of air in it.

There is another post in hear somewhere about that same issue, do a search.

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64122&highlight=clutch+kit

Yep, same thing here, with a 2.6 TS manual. Clutch is so light you can easily push it down by hand.
Take up point is much lower and broader than before. With bedding in the take up point should rise slightly, as the friction material compresses. Paperwork with my clutch kit said it would take 1,000 Km to bed in.

$879? wow! My DIY cost less than $200 - does this mean I saved some dosh? (Don't answer this rhetorical question, saving $ was my initial motivation to go DIY, then I discovered I actually enjoyed it . . . . . )

If you have done a manual ts can you tell me about a manual TR? Does the gearbox have to be removed to replace the clutch or do you know of any sites that have instructions?
I did download a manual but it only shows the clutch after it has been removed with no instructions how to get there.

If you have done a manual ts can you tell me about a manual TR? Does the gearbox have to be removed to replace the clutch or do you know of any sites that have instructions?
I did download a manual but it only shows the clutch after it has been removed with no instructions how to get there.

lol The clutch aint gonna replace itself with both engine and GB still attached. lol
Sorry, anyway, yes gearbox needs to come out.
Basic to do list...
take off wheels
take off castle nuts on driveshafts
Take out driveshafts
Disconnect shifter cables.
disconnect any wiring to gearbox.
Start undoing bolts that attach gearbox to engine top and botton, once thats done you should be able to pry the thing apart and change the clutch

Don't you dare let someone charge you any more than about $200 for valve stem seals; that's highway robbery. It WILL stop your oil blowing probs stone dead, however so worth doing. As for oil leaks, check the rocker cover gaskets in any high-mileage car.

Umm and where exactly do you get that from can I cask. The seals are worth about 35 bucks for the set, then to do the job properly is about 4 hours so you expect a workshop to charge at $41 per hour hmmm

As for keeping it and costs etc, you like the car, you dont mind spending a few bucks on the car then all good, keep it as you can buy a newer car and have just as many issues anyway.

The cost for the clutch is a bit up there, reatail places over here do them for around the $600 but also find out what this extra stuff is

;1305472']lol The clutch aint gonna replace itself with both engine and GB still attached. lol
Sorry, anyway, yes gearbox needs to come out.
Basic to do list...
take off wheels
take off castle nuts on driveshafts
Take out driveshafts
Disconnect shifter cables.
disconnect any wiring to gearbox.
Start undoing bolts that attach gearbox to engine top and botton, once thats done you should be able to pry the thing apart and change the clutch

Well I have seen that with some engines you can pull the gear box back enough to fit the clutch without actually removing the gearbox completely and was sorta hoping wishing etc that maybe the magna was the the same. I just haven't got the strength anymore to wrestle with a gearbox.
Thanks

Sarah

Well I have seen that with some engines you can pull the gear box back enough to fit the clutch without actually removing the gearbox completely and was sorta hoping wishing etc that maybe the magna was the the same. I just haven't got the strength anymore to wrestle with a gearbox.
Thanks

Sarah

Ahh yes like the camria's?? Anyway, Nah box has to come off. If your mechanically inclined it's a good 10 hour day job.

Just out of interest, if I wanted to wreck someones clutch what would I do? I mean how easy is it to make the clutch slip using a spanner?

I question the motivation behind that last statement . . . . . . .

I question the motivation behind that last statement . . . . . . .

Oh I am just wondering if someone could have loosened something as I have clutch fluid all over the engine and I can't drive it at all even though the clutch is cold and the it changes into gear ok. It's as if the clutch pedal is permanently depressed.

OK, I thought you were planning to sabotage someone's car. Sounds like you have a bad leak in the slave cylinder.

OK, I thought you were planning to sabotage someone's car. Sounds like you have a bad leak in the slave cylinder.

No there is a chance I may have been the victim. Well just before the clutch went every time I depressed the pedal about an inch I could feel it tapping on the plate. But it would change gear with no problem when I pushed it all the way down. Then suddenly when I released the pedal it had no effect on the power and I could accelerate all I liked and move the gear lever through all the gears no problem.

Anyway I am waiting for a manual I bought off ebay but was wondering if anyone had any tips on taking the weight of the gearbox when taking it off and replacing it. I have done it a couple of times with a jack and me with rear wheel drives but never front wheel.

thanks for answering my questions.

regards

Sarah

Sounds like my problem last year, when the clutch on the TS is totally worn out the slave cylinder starts to leak. Gearbox can be moved across and dropped slightly to get access to the clutch. I used an engine crane and rope to hold up the gearbox. Pull the reverse switch off the gearbox before you move it as it gets damaged otherwise when you slide the box across, not much clearance. I had to release the engine mount at the other end of the engine and jack that side up to get clearance for the box to slide under the chassis rail. Wash out the clutch dust from the gearbox bell housing, and have a look at the release lever and ball, the ball will need shimming up. I wrote that part up last year, have a look.

Ok I have my manual and have read the chapters on transmission removal and clutch replacement several times. I recently discovered I also need to read the section on steering. This was after I had finally rounded up a couple of people to help me push the car off the street into the garage.
My problem now is that I only have a foot or so space on the passenger side and have discovered that one needs to remove the drive shaft from the wheel in order to get the transmission out. I have only ever dealt with rear end drive cars and this thought never entered my tiny little head. How far do I have to withdraw the drive shaft before it is out of the gearbox?
Is the foot or so space that I have enough if I simply leave the shaft hanging there while I install the clutch kit and then put it back?
Oh and I am never going to buy a front wheel drive car again.

Please ignore that last post. The manual said to disconnect the hub assembly and refer to the suspension section where they show the hub and call the axle it fits on a drive shaft. After re reading the manual a few times I realised that they don't mean those drive shafts they mean the actual drive shaft that fits into the transmission.
The manual is beginning to sound a bit like instructions for putting a piece of Ikea furniture together.

Sounds like my problem last year, when the clutch on the TS is totally worn out the slave cylinder starts to leak. Gearbox can be moved across and dropped slightly to get access to the clutch. I used an engine crane and rope to hold up the gearbox. Pull the reverse switch off the gearbox before you move it as it gets damaged otherwise when you slide the box across, not much clearance. I had to release the engine mount at the other end of the engine and jack that side up to get clearance for the box to slide under the chassis rail. Wash out the clutch dust from the gearbox bell housing, and have a look at the release lever and ball, the ball will need shimming up. I wrote that part up last year, have a look.

so if you do it this way that means you don't need to remove the drive and relay shafts at all then or is that just wishful thinking