View Full Version : getting a head bolt out
MerCuryRisIng
07-04-2009, 07:07 PM
Hi guys,
I have to take off the cams to get to the cylinders and I am having a major issue with one head bolt (it is now rounded)
Anyone got some idea's on getting it out
These are hex screws and the middle bit is rounded out.
thanks in advance
Alan J
07-04-2009, 07:33 PM
Have you thoroughly cleaned out the bolt recess? If there is sludge or metal chips in there it will stop the hex bottoming.
Then degrease inside the hex and your hex socket. You want as much friction as possible to lock the socket and bolt together. Hammer the hex down into the bolt then get someone to push down hard while you turn. If there is space around the edge hammer a wedge of steel in shaped like the tip of a screwdriver.
If that fails get and if the hex isn't too far gone sometimes hammering a bigger size hex in will do the job. If you don't have a 11mm try a 7/16th. If its too tight then carefully grind it down to 10.5-10.7mm.
The only other thing is drastic. Weld the hex to the bolt! Be careful to keep splatter out of the engine, and don't get a fire started!
Cheers,
Alan
Rothguard
07-04-2009, 08:24 PM
drill the bolt and try 1 of them reverse thread taperdbolt thingos
yeah someone knows what im talking about - but ill try to find a brand name !!
MerCuryRisIng
07-04-2009, 08:41 PM
hey,
thanks for the responses.
I have actually completely rounded the hex slot on the bolt.
Drilled down (gone through 4 drill bits now) and still haven't gotten down far enough to get the reverse things in (yer I have a few of them)
Rothguard
07-04-2009, 08:47 PM
normal drill bits ??
maby try a carbide coated drillbit
i think hexheads are hardend not just normal steel
Steevo
07-04-2009, 08:53 PM
drill the bolt and try 1 of them reverse thread taperdbolt thingos
yeah someone knows what im talking about - but ill try to find a brand name !!
Easy-out
Foozrcool
07-04-2009, 09:06 PM
Drilled down (gone through 4 drill bits now) and still haven't gotten down far enough to get the reverse things in (yer I have a few of them)
Titanium or Cobalt drill bits should work.
MerCuryRisIng
08-04-2009, 08:14 PM
hey all again,
Easy out's are not working
Cobalt bit is now worn and damaged
Welding doesn't work
Going to see if I can get one of those mobile people that fix these issues etc - found a couple of numbers on boostcrusing
Alan J
08-04-2009, 08:27 PM
Easy-outs won't handle that sort of tension.
What welding have you tried?
daniels vrx
09-04-2009, 01:02 PM
get a old socket that will fit tightly onto the bolt bash it on with a hammer and undo, easy as that always works for me
Supra_t
09-04-2009, 02:16 PM
get a old socket that will fit tightly onto the bolt bash it on with a hammer and undo, easy as that always works for me
But they are hex head not a bolt head
You have to be carefull and use the right tools to avoid this problem. I have only had this problem once when i was being careless but i was lucky enough to loosen mine off enough with a slightly larger hex hammered in.
Let us know how you went about it once you get it out.
MadMax
09-04-2009, 03:08 PM
Try a larger hex key, hammered in.
Try a monkey wrench if you can get it to grip.
Cut a slit in the top with an angle grinder or hacksaw and use a screwdriver and hammer.
Use a sharp chisel on the outside of the head of the bolt and a hammer, trying at 3 different points.
Failing all that, cut the head of the bolt off with an angle grinder. Careful of the soft alloy. Once the head is off use a monkey wrench to remove the rest of the bolt.
---=== Runs away and hides to avoid the Wrath of Mal ===----
Madmagna
09-04-2009, 09:30 PM
You can not access enough of the bolt to do any of the above
Use a Mig and make sure it is clean and you can weld something to it
Why do you think that taking the CAMS off will give you access to the bores, do you actually mean taking the Heads off?
Also, if one bolt is still tight and the rest are out, if it is not one of the outer end bolts, chances are you have screwed your head also
MerCuryRisIng
10-04-2009, 08:36 AM
MadMagna,
Based off the diagram in the haynes it is bolt #6
8 4 1 5
7 3 2 6
MadMax
10-04-2009, 08:58 AM
Buy more drill bits, and keep on drilling until the head of the bolt collapses. Might take a while . . . .
The angle grinder is still an option, if you are prepared to destroy the head and replace it, or are prepared to take it to a workshop and get the damage you do welded up. You might get some funny looks though.
Foozrcool
10-04-2009, 09:45 AM
Buy more drill bits, and keep on drilling until the head of the bolt collapses. Might take a while . . . .
Sounds like the go, get an oversized drill bit & like Madmax said, keep drilling until the bolt head collapses then remove the cylinder head & get a pair of Vicegrips onto the stud & remove it.
MerCuryRisIng
10-04-2009, 11:41 AM
yer,
I have just had Danny from pro threads come out and drill out the bolt for me.
15 or so mins and the bolt was out, definately worth $80 that I paid him seeing as we already went through $50 worth of drill bits trying to get it out.
Anyone in Brisbane area needing this type of thing done I reccomend him (mobile is 0402 106 388).
Now for pics of the damage!
http://mercness.net.au/stephan/IMG_2613.jpg (top of the cylinder)
http://mercness.net.au/stephan/IMG_2615%20(Medium).jpg (underneath the valves)
http://mercness.net.au/stephan/IMG_2616.jpg (underneath valves - side view)
Suprising amount of damage in pic 2613 for a couple of bounces by a nut (presumably)
What exactly went wrong here? Looks like something was dropped into the cylinder?
MerCuryRisIng
10-04-2009, 11:58 AM
Refer to thread http://aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66334
specifically the massive "bangs"...
thinking it was a bolt/nut that fell into cylinder No 2
Now....
The next question is - how did a nut get into the cynlinder?
MerCuryRisIng
10-04-2009, 12:33 PM
I think it fell down the bottom manifold while we were doing everything else
Supra_t
10-04-2009, 12:41 PM
I think it fell down the bottom manifold while we were doing everything else
Jeez mate, maybe you should leave the mechanical work to a pro
Madmagna
10-04-2009, 09:18 PM
Mate, that is really bad, that "nut" or what ever it was certainly ran for a few more than 2 or 3 strokes but clearly it did not run too long.
Damage is bad, to be honest you are probably better off just going out and finding a low mileage engine complete and pop that in
Best of luck
MadMax
10-04-2009, 09:50 PM
commiserations on your loss. RIP - another one bites the dust. :cry:
MerCuryRisIng
11-04-2009, 08:00 AM
Question then.
How much could I expect to pay for a 2nd hand lower km engine (this bugger has done ~270,000km)
In the mean time can I expect to get city drivability out of this engine if I disable the spark plug lead to it and the injector?
Mrmacomouto
11-04-2009, 08:05 AM
I wouldn't be driving it, might be able to do 85 tops.
Second hand engine for 400-700 I believe.
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