Just a heads up for TS owners.

Went to replace driver's side tie rod on V6 TS because it had play in the ball joint (hidden under boot)

The steering rack boots (on both my TSs) were found to be ripped. This allows dirt in, and causes wear on the oil seals at the ends of the rack and tie rod ball joint. If your TS is using power steering fluid, this might be the problem. The boots are well out of sight and hard to detect failure unless you go looking for the problem. Boots are cheap - $20 for a pair from the local car parts place - but hard to put on. Tie rod $45 from Repco.
Worth a quick look.

Postmortem: replacing boots and tie rod on the car is do-able, but only just. Might have to rip the rack out if the leak gets worse. Oh, the joys of owning old cars! The boots are on but the method of holding them on - cable ties - didn't work, too brittle and they snap - need to go out and get some new cable ties! Grrrrrrr

AFAIK, magna steering racks in the 2nd g's are not cheap to replace... Cheers for the heads up though, I had mine all done not long ago, as soon as I see a small tear, I replace them

Sorry to hijack, anyone know where you can get new strut tops for 2nd gens?

Mine came out in 2 pieces!

Strut bearings have been mentioned before - Mitsu dealer. If they are not too bad, just stiff, maybe you can work some grease into them? Off the car of course. If they are sealed bearings, you can flip the cover off with a small screwdriver so you pack it with grease. (Did this on an old Sigma, don't know if this works for a Magna)

Just a heads up for TS owners.

Went to replace driver's side tie rod on V6 TS because it had play in the ball joint (hidden under boot)

The steering rack boots (on both my TSs) were found to be ripped. This allows dirt in, and causes wear on the oil seals at the ends of the rack and tie rod ball joint. If your TS is using power steering fluid, this might be the problem. The boots are well out of sight and hard to detect failure unless you go looking for the problem. Boots are cheap - $20 for a pair from the local car parts place - but hard to put on. Tie rod $45 from Repco.
Worth a quick look.

Postmortem: replacing boots and tie rod on the car is do-able, but only just. Might have to rip the rack out if the leak gets worse. Oh, the joys of owning old cars! The boots are on but the method of holding them on - cable ties - didn't work, too brittle and they snap - need to go out and get some new cable ties! Grrrrrrr

Well my TR Never used oil but boots were SHAGGED.
The one on the passengers side is pretty easy to do....the one on the drivers side is not. I took off the lower subframe to allow me to get my whole hand in there.

Its a bit of a prick of a job but not really THAT hard.
FYI For some dumb reason I went to mitsubishi and happily forked out the $60 for one boot. After I put it on I pretty much kicked myself in the forehead for not thinking to go to bursons. So when I found out the other side was knackered too went to bursons and paid $9.80 or something.

So yeah. Don't go to mitsu unless your an idiot, like me.

TUFFTR: "So yeah. Don't go to mitsu unless your an idiot, like me."

Not only are Mitsu charging top dollar, some of their rubber bits have been sitting on a shelf somewhere slowly rotting away for the last 15 years - pair of driveshaft boots I bought from Mitsu @ $30 each were dried out with surface cracks, lasted 18 months!
Second set were half the price, nice and smooth and shiny! NOT from Mitsu.

Sorry to hijack, anyone know where you can get new strut tops for 2nd gens?

$110 a side from Mitsubishi

TUFFTR: "Its a bit of a prick of a job but not really THAT hard."

The hard bit was removing/replacing the tie rod - not much clearance, used a monkey wrench in the end. Lock washer needs to be bent over and I could only reach one side, hope it holds. Putting the boot on is inconvenient, once again because of the lack of space.