Re: K&N Apollo Cold Air Kit, now avail from RPW. Does anyone know anything about these? I'm curious about fitting one to my 380 in preference to a K&N panel / Galant snorkel. I gather they are a universal fit but can be purchased with some extra bits to make adaption to the 380 fairly easy.

I'm mainly interested in performance gains, ease of fitting and whether these are likely to be defected (? they're not pod filters so I'm guessing not).

Any thoughts welcome, thanks.

I posted a pic of an apollo about a month ago. They are a small pod filter and look very good. Id check your local repco store thats were I saw one.

Yeah, this.
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=37906&d=1236713603

Yeah, this.
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=37906&d=1236713603

Thanks G. All comments I've read elsewhere are very favourable re the Apollo design and efficiency as a genuine CAI. I think I will be purchasing.

looks the part, but what diameter tubing is that? looks narrow!

Thanks G. All comments I've read elsewhere are very favourable re the Apollo design and efficiency as a genuine CAI. I think I will be purchasing.
Good luck. Take some pics when its fitted, with details of custom work (if any) involved.

Check out the link for Alan J's thoughts on this. He seems to favour retaining the 90mm intake and cutting the bottom off the resonator like a few of us have done or replacing the resonator with a larger diameter tube...
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66403&page=12

I just got to say I think there is still a lot of restriction in the stock airbox even with the 90mm intake. Even with mine idling yesterday & placing my hand reasonably close (not touching) to one side of the pod I could feel the suction. I think the bigger the better & even the K&N panel filter is restricting flow. Go the pod!

:pray:

Thing is; none of us really know for sure.

It's another step that we have to take to find out the best path - same as the exhaust changes.

I'm going to try cutting the front of the airbox and fitting an adaptor with a short 75mm pipe terminating in the corner down behind the passenger headlight somewhere. Someone posted pics of this before; was it specialK or Sh00t? I did some searching but can't find the pics again.

It's the mod that DaveTJ has said they run on their race cars. That and cutting the resonator seems to achieve the same thing.

That said, I agree with Fooz that a pod would probably achieve the best possible.

Here it is...
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56400&page=5&highlight=apollo+cai
Go to post #47.
Shoot did repost these pics, but they came from a user Blue Platinum (hasn't posted in several months now)

I just got to say I think there is still a lot of restriction in the stock airbox even with the 90mm intake. Even with mine idling yesterday & placing my hand reasonably close (not touching) to one side of the pod I could feel the suction. I think the bigger the better & even the K&N panel filter is restricting flow. Go the pod!
I tend to agree with you...if its all about surface area, the pod is going to suck in more air.

The best bit about the current set up is that it still looks stock. But I suppose if you have a supercharger bolted to the top of your motor, a non-OEM air intake isnt too much of a concern for you!!!

Here it is...
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56400&page=5&highlight=apollo+cai
Go to post #47.
Shoot did repost these pics, but they came from a user Blue Platinum (hasn't posted in several months now)

Ah! thanks for that, Grubco.

I remembered the pics but when I checked under the bonnet I couldn't work out how the radiator overflow stick was avoided. Now I know.

Unfortunatly when I looked at the apollo in the flesh I discovered that its a really small pod and the surface area proberbly isnt much larger than the panel filter, But boy was it sexy looking and available in black blue red and silver metalic.

Thanks for all the responses. One of the advantages of the Apollo seems to be the pipe that runs from the 'pod' which could be located near the front grille to draw in air. I would tend to think this will allow better air flow than otherwise would be possible with the 90mm intake, though it will be difficult to gauge until someone tries it.

I am happy to be a guinea pig and give this a go. I still have stock intake on my 380 so this has to be a big improvement over what I have. As an aside, I called one of the large auto retailers yesterday re: price/availability and they quoted a price that was almost double what it is available for online. What a joke.

Mate I was qouted $360nz for red silver and blue apollo, or if I wanted black it would only be $240nz :nuts: I thought $240 was really good value, what price have you been qouted?

Mate I was qouted $360nz for red silver and blue apollo, or if I wanted black it would only be $240nz :nuts: I thought $240 was really good value, what price have you been qouted?

I was quoted $400 from the local retailer. Online the same item can be bought for closer to AU $220 (black finish), but the other colour options are not in excess of $300.

Check out the link for Alan J's thoughts on this. He seems to favour retaining the 90mm intake and cutting the bottom off the resonator like a few of us have done or replacing the resonator with a larger diameter tube...
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66403&page=12

Thanks for the link to this discussion. Interesting is the additional intake on the diagram provided by Alan J.
I wouldn't be looking at putting the pipe too low into the front bumper for the reasons stated (water, dirt, etc) and was thinking I'd try for the front grille, if there is room to run a pipe there. The linked discussion reminds me of the discussions around the Gen 3 (TL+) intake, and the proven gains (well, claimed gains - the NZ Mitsubishi Diamante documentation claimed an extra 5kw) made by using the NZ intake developed as a 'power upgrade'. I fitted the NZ one to my old TL and it didn't sit too close to the front grille hence wasn't in danger of drawing in too much water and rubbish (which you would get by running a pipe into the lower front bumper).

Check out the link for Alan J's thoughts on this. He seems to favour retaining the 90mm intake and cutting the bottom off the resonator like a few of us have done or replacing the resonator with a larger diameter tube...
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66403&page=12
Despite the expected airflow gains with a pod setup, I'm still in favour of cutting the resonator instead (mainly for cost and stock appearance), which I have heard and approve of - though haven't done it yet.

Grubco,

Why don't you take the Nike approach and just do it?

It's relatively easy, all you need is a few tools (jacks & axle stands, small screwdriver to lever the screws on the plastic undertray, 10mm socket and extender bar to remove the two mounting bolts on the front half of the air box and the three bolts holding the lower resonator in place, and a hack saw to cut the end off lower resonator) and a little spare time.

I even reckon you can do it without removing the front half of the airbox, just get underneath and remove the resonator, cut it and bolt it back on again.

KJ.

Guys I noticed Tradewind posted in one of his threads re the K&N Apollo & apparantly it is only good for 300HP. If this is the case I think you will all be better off staying with the 90mm intake plus maybe the resonator or Knotched's suggested modification as I was running the 90mm & K&N N/A & estimate I would have had roughly 290 or 300HP running V-Power Extreme 101 octane at the flywheel.

I think you should all stick to this or next step would be to do something like what I have with my pod.

PS - As Blue 380 said I'm not worried about the OEM look as I have a blower hanging off the motor if you lift the bonnet :ninja:

Grubco,

Why don't you take the Nike approach and just do it?

It's relatively easy, all you need is a few tools (jacks & axle stands, small screwdriver to lever the screws on the plastic undertray, 10mm socket and extender bar to remove the two mounting bolts on the front half of the air box and the three bolts holding the lower resonator in place, and a hack saw to cut the end off lower resonator) and a little spare time.

I even reckon you can do it without removing the front half of the airbox, just get underneath and remove the resonator, cut it and bolt it back on again.

KJ.
KJ, I was ready to do it a few weeks back, and had the inner guard cover off (half off, damn screws wouldn't come out) and actually got 1 of the 3 bolts (of lower resonator) off, but had no hope of getting at the other 2 as I don't half trolley jack and/or axle stands.
My brother used to have wheel ramps... might txt him to see if he still has 'em. Would they do it?
Access granted, I'm all for it!

Guys I noticed Tradewind posted in one of his threads re the K&N Apollo & apparantly it is only good for 300HP. If this is the case I think you will all be better off staying with the 90mm intake plus maybe the resonator or Knotched's suggested modification as I was running the 90mm & K&N N/A & estimate I would have had roughly 290 or 300HP running V-Power Extreme 101 octane at the flywheel.



Well, the website states:
The Apollo is ideal for normally aspired engines up to 250BHP and turbo engines up to 350BHP. It allows for updating your intake system while retaining a closed environment.

So perhaps then it will be inadequate for the 380? I just can't be bothered ordering the 90mm intake and want to try an alternative. Maybe I'll go with the flow and massacre my resonator, won't cost anything!

Grubco,

I'd be a bit wary about getting under the car if it's on wheel ramps only. At the very least you should chock the back wheels (behind one tyre and in front of the other) as well. I don't have ramps, instead I use a combination of hydraulic jack & scissor jack & axle stands & wheel chocks to make sure the car can't possibly fall on me. Hydraulic jacks are pretty cheap, around $80 - $100 from SuperCheap. Same with axle stands & chocks. Usually you can get a package deal of hydraulic jack & two axle stands & two wheel chocks from SuperCheap for less than $200. One of the best investments I ever made, used 'em dozens of times. One thing you can do is use the scissor jack in the boot then slide an axle stand under then do the same with the other side, and then chock the two back wheels. At a pinch you could get away with just jacking up the front passenger side of the car, that should give you enough room to get at the three lower resonator bolts. But again I would make double sure it's solidly seated on an axle stand and/or a hydraulic jack, and with wheels chocks in place. Never get under a car held up only by a scissor jack, they are prone to slip or snap, especially if you're doing any heavy nut or bolt turning.

With the pesky plastic guard screws, just stick a small screwdriver under the head and lever it a bit. Then you should be able to grab it between two fingers, or maybe with needle nosed pliers, and pull it out. Like I said in another thread, don't treat it as a screw, treat it as a pull out/push in plug.

Once you get the plastic guard off the three bolts are surprisingly easy to get at.

KJ.

So perhaps then it will be inadequate for the 380? I just can't be bothered ordering the 90mm intake and want to try an alternative. Maybe I'll go with the flow and massacre my resonator, won't cost anything!
Doesn't matter what you do they will all work. If you want to maximise top end power you need to get rid of restrictions. To me the Apollo doesn't look better than the 90mm intake & K&N, as for CAI you already have it with the stock setup.

I'm thinking Knotched's idea is the go for those wanting to retain the stock airbox. There looks like there is enough room to mount a flange adaptor on the front & suck some cold air from around the light or somewhere there. Even doing the resonator chop can't hurt.

380Mitsu just make sure you get the K&N panel filter if you haven't already.

380Mitsu just make sure you get the K&N panel filter if you haven't already.

No, haven't done the panel filter. Got one for my previous Magna and wasn't convinced there was any gain, other than having a filter that would last a very long time. Others who have done the 90mm upgrade have indicated it is mandatory to do the K&N panel, but without the larger intake I'm not so sure if it's worth the $.

No, haven't done the panel filter. Got one for my previous Magna and wasn't convinced there was any gain, other than having a filter that would last a very long time. Others who have done the 90mm upgrade have indicated it is mandatory to do the K&N panel, but without the larger intake I'm not so sure if it's worth the $.
If you're going to cut your resonator as stated you will be introducing less restriction into the airbox so why wouldn't you put the K&N in after reading these forums. If you don't want to increase your performance don't cut the resonator either.

These mods obviously work on the restricted 380 so just because you don't think the K&N made a difference on your Magna, you're not gonna do it? I'd leave you're intake stock, I don't think just cutting the resonator will be noticable either with the stock paper filter.

There is no need to remove the res. Why dont you try drilling a series of 10mm holes along the bottom of the res while its still in place, then suck out any bits of plastic with a vacuum cleaner:woot: Im sure this will work so please people no more excuses.

If you're going to cut your resonator as stated you will be introducing less restriction into the airbox so why wouldn't you put the K&N in after reading these forums. If you don't want to increase your performance don't cut the resonator either.

These mods obviously work on the restricted 380 so just because you don't think the K&N made a difference on your Magna, you're not gonna do it? I'd leave you're intake stock, I don't think just cutting the resonator will be noticable either with the stock paper filter.

I'm not against doing the K&N. I just want to get from A to B with the lowest outlay $$ wise possible. I'd rather not throw away money on bits that aren't going to achieve a lot. It's all food for thought.

I'm not against doing the K&N. I just want to get from A to B with the lowest outlay $$ wise possible. I'd rather not throw away money on bits that aren't going to achieve a lot. It's all food for thought.
If you want dollar value, try to source the 90mm intake from the US & add a K&N for slightly more than $100 (slice the resonator too) & you will get at least what you got from replacing your muffler & better economy & throttle response as well. Many a 380 driver on here will vouch for that.

If you want dollar value, try to source the 90mm intake from the US .

Not that easy I am afraid. I have emailed lots of dealers in the US and none of them are interested.

Not that easy I am afraid. I have emailed lots of dealers in the US and none of them are interested.
Even so buy in Aust & the whole setup would only be $180 ...... good bang for your buck.

Other options ....

1/ Know anyone in the US, buy & send or wreckers there, if they are $13 US new they would give them away from wrecks!

2/ Find a wrecked TMR380 :hmm: Not likely :doh:

3/ I could sell mine for say ....... :hmm: $1000 :roflwtf:

We were all ordering ours from Ray Reece website (US distributor for Mitsubishi & VW), though it doesn't exist anymore - tried my bookmark just now. There must be some other distributor-type website doing the same thing.

380Mitsu and rprodrive,

If you open the front of the airbox with a new 75mm pipe I doubt not having the 90mm intake is going to be any disadvantage. Are there too many negatives in that statement?

The size of the pipe would be better than cutting the resonator with the standard intake. Certainly be a lot cheaper than any other option as well.

380Mitsu and rprodrive,

If you open the front of the airbox with a new 75mm pipe I doubt not having the 90mm intake is going to be any disadvantage. Are there too many negatives in that statement?

The size of the pipe would be better than cutting the resonator with the standard intake. Certainly be a lot cheaper than any other option as well.

I think the 90mm intake is great for the stock look, but agree - the airbox cut with pipe surely would achieve the same for minimal $. My only objection to cutting the resonator was accessing it - too much mucking around especially when you can't jack the car effectively.

As a belated follow up to this thread, apparently the Apollo CAI will only fit a manual 380 and not an auto. So there goes that idea out the window! Having taken a look in the engine bay there seem to be limited places to feed a tube into the front grille to draw air in anyways which was my plan. Never mind... I'll be pursuing other options as suggested.

While not the same model of car, I have performed a similar mod to the air box in my Clubsport. From factory the Commodore airboxes have a 65mm duct that draws air from between the bonnet and headlight area. The HSV models have an extra 35mm hole cut in the side of the airbox to reduce restriction (you can tell a hole saw has been used...lol).

What most people (myself included) do is cut an additional 65mm hole on the front of the air box next to the factory intake duct, the good thing is you can sheild the whole area behind the headlight off by modifing an early VY monaro heatsheild ($20 from a dealer. :D)

There is a noticable inprovment in response with the extra 65mm hole, especially above 4,000rpm. Id say similar gains can be had with modifing the 380 airboxes.

When holding my k&n up to a light i can see holes, what sort of a filter is that?
Not good in the long term or if i ever go on a dirt road.

When holding my k&n up to a light i can see holes, what sort of a filter is that?
Not good in the long term or if i ever go on a dirt road.

Time to be suspicious - who hates you? :hmm: Thats a bit like somebody poking holes in all your condoms with a pin. :eek2:








Seriously are they actual holes or just thinner areas of the cotton gauze sandwich between the wire support panels. I wouldn't worry too much as it is the tacky filter oil that traps the dirt and as long as the apparent 'hole' has at least a layer or two if not 4-5 of cotton gauze it will work fine. If you hold up a sheet of paper to a strong light (eg newsprint) you can often see the same effect as the fibre density is not 100% consistent

The K&N and other oiled filters like the Unifilter also rely on the trapped dirt particles getting covered in tacky filter oil and becoming part of the 'filter' medium without reducing airflow significantly or letting dirt in.