any one out there know where to put the resistor on the air flow meter? and what size resistor to use?

also, any positives or negatives?

thanks

If this is from ebay, place it nice and neatly on top of the nearest pile of rubbish. Absolute waste of time mate

thats why i am asking about where exactly to put the resistor, and what resistance i need. this way it will cost me 40c from dicksmith instead of 40 plus post.....

what are you trying to achieve? Tricking the ECU into thinking there is more air entering the MAF then there actually is? They are quite sensitive items those MAF's, so not sure how much success you would have...

thats why i am asking about where exactly to put the resistor, and what resistance i need. this way it will cost me 40c from dicksmith instead of 40 plus post.....
Do not do anything...
if anything, do it properly and buy an Apexi SAFC-II to change your air/fuel ratios

These dont work....

buy an electric supercharger too for optimal increases

buy an electric supercharger too for optimal increases
:stoopid:
Best waste of money mod you can do to your car, its a must have

The resistor doesn't go on the air flow meter, it goes on the IAT (intake air temperature) sensor. In theory, it does actually have merit in the way it works.

Firstly, all those on Ebay are basically con jobs, there are two different mods, one that goes on the O2 sensor, the other that goes on the IAT. If any go on the airflow meter then it wouldn't work in my opinion. Don't read their claims as fact, you won't get a 30 percent fuel economy benefit or an extra 150hp like I saw one advertising.

So, how do they work? Simply by tricking the ECU in to thinking the incoming air is cooler than it really is. The engine advances the timing slightly to 'make benefit' of the reduced temperature and thats where you get the power from.

Failures in the principle? The Magna's from what I read are tuned to 91 octane fuel and don't have knock sensors? the knock sensors are important, you don't want to advance the timing that much that you get engine knock. By using a higher octane fuel, 92/94/95/98, the advanced engine timing shouldn't be too much of an issue.

You do not want to make the engine think the air is too cool though, that would be counter-beneficial. If you have done the throttle body water bypass and using Barry's thermal gaskets, the air is actually cooler going in then what the ECU is programmed for, so by tricking the ECU in to thinking the incoming air is cooler, it would match the temperature actually going in to the engine!

I have absolutely no idea what size resistor you require, using a too strong of a resistor is bad, you would only want to use one that changes the temperature by say, 10C - so if its 25C it says its 15C, not make the ECU think its 0C or less permanently like those mods on Ebay.

Just remember if you choose a resistor that advances the timing to require a 95 octane fuel, you will need to continue using a 95 octane fuel etc., due to the lack? of knock sensors on first and third? gen magnas.

The resistor doesn't go on the air flow meter, it goes on the IAT (intake air temperature) sensor. In theory, it does actually have merit in the way it works.

Firstly, all those on Ebay are basically con jobs, there are two different mods, one that goes on the O2 sensor, the other that goes on the IAT. If any go on the airflow meter then it wouldn't work in my opinion. Don't read their claims as fact, you won't get a 30 percent fuel economy benefit or an extra 150hp like I saw one advertising.

So, how do they work? Simply by tricking the ECU in to thinking the incoming air is cooler than it really is. The engine advances the timing slightly to 'make benefit' of the reduced temperature and thats where you get the power from.

Failures in the principle? The Magna's from what I read are tuned to 91 octane fuel and don't have knock sensors? the knock sensors are important, you don't want to advance the timing that much that you get engine knock. By using a higher octane fuel, 92/94/95/98, the advanced engine timing shouldn't be too much of an issue.

You do not want to make the engine think the air is too cool though, that would be counter-beneficial. If you have done the throttle body water bypass and using Barry's thermal gaskets, the air is actually cooler going in then what the ECU is programmed for, so by tricking the ECU in to thinking the incoming air is cooler, it would match the temperature actually going in to the engine!

I have absolutely no idea what size resistor you require, so use really strong resistors which is bad, you would only want to use one that changes the temperature by say, 10C - so if its 25C it says its 15C, not make the ECU think its 0C or less permanently like those mods on Ebay.

Just remember if you choose a resistor that advances the timing to require a 95 octane fuel, you will need to continue using a 95 octane fuel etc., due to the lack? of knock sensors on first and third? gen magnas.

Please correct me if I am wrong but Inside the MAF there is a barometric air pressur sensor, an IAT and there was one more i cannot remember, so actually if it was to be done it'd go in or near the MAF wiring anyway.

']Please correct me if I am wrong but Inside the MAF there is a barometric air pressur sensor, an IAT and there was one more i cannot remember, so actually if it was to be done it'd go in or near the MAF wiring anyway.

Most likely yes, haven't done it myself. You'd have to splice it in the IAT sensor wire :S

Take it from someone that not only knows every part of a Magna but is also certified in EFI.....dont waste your time and your engine

You are going to make your ECU "think" the air is cooler, you will run even richer than the standard map is set up for, you will risk wash down for starters and if you are really wanting to use more fuel, just put your foot down on the go pedal harder. You will feel more power from that.

The TB bypass, thremal gaskets etc are also placebo as well, remember you have bolts that hold the tb on, these surprisingly transfer heat believe it or not. When you stop the hot engine the TB will still get heat soak. When running the air moves reasonable fast and does not have much time to heat up, most of the air heat comes further down the manifold. WIth the fuel rail, most of the fuel ends up back in the tank so does not really get a chance to heat up again unless the engine is shut down and the fuel is not flowing. Mits and all car makers put the coolant pipes there to acheive a faster cold idle to ensure that the engine heats up faster for both emmisions as well as making the engine run at optimum temps. Another benefit is in winter the small amount of extra heat you do get also helps ensure you do not get moisture building up around the throttle plate which can cause poor idle or even in a bad case stalling.

Trust me, I have been there and done that, tried all sorts of combinations and on the Dyno, no change at all.

In short, leave the intake alone, the MAF is a very precise part of the ECU's inputs and changing this with a resistor is a waste of even 40c Use the 40c towards an icecream at maccas next time it is hot, much better way to spend your money

if you want a real performance upgrade then go to jaycar and get the digital fuel adjuster for your a/f meter and/or the digital pulse adjuster (for your 02 sensor)

that way you can map out your response curves depending upon load @ 128 points....nifty lil kits

Hey! While you are there, can you ask for their price on a Flux Capacitor? I think the one on my DeLorean is foobar'ed

sure is it the 1.1GW model?

Hey! While you are there, can you ask for their price on a Flux Capacitor? I think the one on my DeLorean is foobar'ed

Damn just checked the catalogue and no Flux Capacitors, luckily they have in-car adjustable cams to make up for that.

sure is it the 1.1GW model?


Yep - mine has a slow leak in the plasma container - it glows at night. Need a new one ASAP

and superchargers...to make it easier to do 88mph

The same can be said about most other mods people do on here :)

sure is it the 1.1GW model?
Well theres the problem... Upgrade to the 1.21GW model, much betterer.

You mean 1.1 GW revision 2, surely? I hear they come with a tungsten carbide plasma container, much more robust than the aluminium one on the first version. And its made in Japan, not China!

What the heck is going on here :nuts:

What the heck is going on here :nuts:

Nothing