hey all,

so a mate of mine wants to upgrade the sterio in his 2nd gen (tr) and has been perving on mine since i finished it off a few days ago

he has made a few alterations to the setup and im just not certain about parts of it


1) verada pods in the door with boston " splits got my ok

2) custom made pods in the rear doors with 4" boston coaxs this is what im uncertain about

3) he wants me to fake wall his boot like mine with a shallow sub will he lose much going shallow?

4) being a brand fanatic he wants stinger brand for all cables are they really worth it? i dont think so



personaly i think he is better off throwing some 6" coax's in the parcel shelf for rear fill but he is stubborn as hell when it comes to his ideas, just thought id post here and show him the replies, if im wrong im wrong i dont really care i still get my carton of grog for my time installing it all lol

ty all

1) verada pods in the door with boston " splits

2) custom made pods in the rear doors with 4" boston coaxs

3) he wants me to fake wall his boot like mine with a shallow sub

4) being a brand fanatic he wants stinger brand for all cables



1) Good idea :D If he is fanatic make sure he mounts them on a MDF baffle and Deaden the doors.

2) Not a bad idea, just a pain to do. Good thing about them being in the door vs parcel shelf is that in the door they wont be effected as much by the sub. If in the parcel shelf they can become like passive radiators so generally the smaller the better if you do put them their.

3) Shallow sub is just another sub. Excursion on them is lacking compared to a normal sub. For example most shallow sub have an Xmax of between 6-8mm, and you can get a ID 12 with 17mm Xmax and it only need 20cm of depth and under $350 for the 12inch and under $300 for the 10inch. This just means the shallow subs are usually more punchy then low kidney munching bass.

4) Definately when it comes to RCA's and terminals. Don't notice much difference between power cables though.

thanks for the quick reply, well it it all seems good then i may as well grab a can from the carten and start cutting some mdf :io:

If you have power windows a premade molded (fiberglass and mdf.)6 inch and tweeter holder will fit onto the rear door below the power window switch is available from auto barn....About 40 bucks. Come in black or gray vinyl trim.

4 inch would be fine but if 6 fits why not!

im planning on doing similar to my rear doors once i convert to power windows as the winder is in the way.

Let us know which way you go and sen a couple of pics..


all the best.

Stinger cabling.....

eh.....

As Charisma said, for power cables its simply a nice waste of cash.

For RCA's.....im still undecided......depending on how much they are.

I use Iridum RCA'a, I think thats the brand - lifestylestore in Sydney sell this brand. Its the same RCA's as Stinger (or another major brand....sorry, I'll check my wiring, this is about as much as I care about 'name brand' wiring).

They're made in the same factory as the major brand - look identical, except for the colour. Oh, and they're about half the price.

ty all, yeah i have power windows :D but my mates exec only has manual winders so he might have to settle for 4" rears, will post pics when he gets of his bum and orders all the gear, i have started on is wall as i have a few sheets of mdf here, stinger as i imaged would prolly be a waste of cash xept the rcas as they have some sort of super sheilding appantly

Dont particulary need any 'super shielding'. That said, it does help if you run anywhere near power wires. My RCA's run along the power wire for around 1m....no noise.

i used DNA rca's and there next to the power cable and are fine. Autobarn special..lol good shielding so im happy.

The wires are just what was on the roll at the time. all sounds great.

i have dna 100 amp fuses with reset but the quality of these is poor. work fine just cheap plastic.

Love to see the 4 inch setup!