Hey Guys,

and before anyone asks, yes i have searched and a couldnt find the specific answer im after...

firstly my car has done 240,000kms and the previous owner said he never got the timing belt done which means it could me as much as 30,000kms over due.

so ive got the timing belt kit with the hydraulic tentioner, cam and crank seals, etc. i plan to change the driving belts over aswell and the water pump.

i planned to get a aftermarket Water pump - which only comes with the front section, yet a genuine mitsubishi water pump comes with the front and back section, but is significantly more expensive.

so my question is - taking into account my situation and the general scheme of things - do i need to replace both sections of the water pump or do you think i would be ok with only replacing the front section?

ive have been told by mitsubishi that if you were to only replace the front section, the new timing belt produces more load than the worn belt and can put extra load on the parts you didnt replace, and can damage them, is this true or is he just biased?

Just wanted you guys opinion on this. cheers.

dude you cant replace everything, so their theory the whole engine will break,
yes the old belt will have streched a little, the old belt will still have the same tension applied, as a new one will. thanks to the auto tensioner, if not the belt could slip a tooth on any of the cogs,
just do it, you will be fine. i saved money by doing 90% of the work myself, and then getting a mobile mechanic to come in and do the rest.

If you intend of keeping the car for any period of time, I'de replace the whole water pump and only GMB.

I dont see the point of cutting corners in servicing a car - seriously, people spend $5000 on a plasma TV yet wont shell out an extra $100 for a good water pump :nuts:

cheers guys

ive have been told by mitsubishi that if you were to only replace the front section, the new timing belt produces more load than the worn belt and can put extra load on the parts you didnt replace, and can damage them, is this true or is he just biased?

Just wanted you guys opinion on this. cheers.

Does not make sense. The only reason i will change the water pump is as a preventative to avoid breakdowns. But trust me, you will know when the water pump is on the way out. It will sound like broken ball bearings grinding.

It is not going to produce more load because your engine is still going to turn the same revolution (old belt or new), unless you start revving more than usual just because you know you can with a new timing belt (fearing the old one might snap).

Mate, what Mits told you is only to make you spend with them, they are FOS

I will get to your PM hopefully tomorrow evening as well mate, have not forgotten, just been a little under the pump

Mate, what Mits told you is only to make you spend with them, they are FOS

I will get to your PM hopefully tomorrow evening as well mate, have not forgotten, just been a little under the pump


hi i agree with you i work for mits and was watching them cost up some parts i nearly died no wonder i get parts for people at my price trade that is and do service work on the cheaper side

Does not make sense. The only reason i will change the water pump is as a preventative to avoid breakdowns. But trust me, you will know when the water pump is on the way out. It will sound like broken ball bearings grinding.

It is not going to produce more load because your engine is still going to turn the same revolution (old belt or new), unless you start revving more than usual just because you know you can with a new timing belt (fearing the old one might snap).

my driving style would not change from now to when i get the new one put on, and as suggested just being biased to their genuine parts, as expected, and your right the only reason i would get the full pump is as a precaution. cheers for the comments


Mate, what Mits told you is only to make you spend with them, they are FOS

I will get to your PM hopefully tomorrow evening as well mate, have not forgotten, just been a little under the pump

no rush, i appreciate it!

The rear section of the water pump will only need to be replaced if the hole where the coolant pipe fits into is corroded enough so as not to seal, even with a new o-ring. Unless the vehicle has never had a coolant change in its life, (or filled up with crappy bore water) this scenario is fairly unlikely. This rear housing has to come off any way so the rear housing can be inspected and the new o-ring (comes with the water pump) fitted.

The front part with the pulley and the impeller is the only moving part that will wear.

REgards

Epitrochoid