Hey guys I am wanting to install power windows in my TF magna.
I have searched for info but havent exactly found what im looking for.
What I want to know is EXACTLY what i will need (and pics if possible) as I will hopefully be going down to the wreckers this week (Unless somebody on here wants to sell me their power windows...)
Ok, So far I think i need:

-Dash loom (Although I think my car already has this as its an Advance)
-Door Trims/Switches
-motors
-regulators (Isnt the motor attached to these? lol)
-Door looms (But i have heard it is a B*tch to remove from another car, so I will probably just do my own)

Is that it?

I rewired my whole car audio system a while back, So im thinking that the wiring ect shouldnt be too much drama. Installing the front windows could be a little tricky though as the doors are covered in dynamatt, but luckily i have around 1m squared of the stuff left over which I could use to repair any holes i make.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks guys

Here's something Madmagna prepared earlier.

P.S Wrong section.



December 97 TF Advance....

Cool, you are in luck

All the wiring under the dash and down the LHS is there, it is only the loom that goes down the RHS that needs to be changed. This sounds daunting but is really simple. Pop out the front and rear seats, the loom goes from the junction box under the dash and another plug just behind, striaght down the RHS, at the middle pillar it splits and goes across the hand brake and to the lhs and plugs into the lhs harness, following back to the rear it goes up through the parcel shelf, plugs into the tail light loom and boot lid loom, another splits off and runs under the parcel shelf for the demister, rear speakers, brake light and boot light. Sounds complicated but once my seats were out took me 15 minutes to swap over,

Now the regs, you will need to change all 4 door harness over, these are a little fiddly but you unplug from inside the car, pull out of the pillar, and then feed the harness out of the door jam, you will see what I mean. The non fast glass looms do not have all the fast glass wiring in them unless the car is a freak lol

The rear doors will trick you as they did me the first time, the regs do not bolt up to the same mounts as the original, try and get to a wrecker and have a look as is a little hard to explain how these fit in.

You will need the following
4 regs
Door panels
Speaker mounts (plastic ones in the doors)
Door harness
RHS harness
relay (for the engine bay box, all the wiring is there just no relay)
Switches and switch panels (if you find front wood grain ones they are mine lol)

The glass is the same for both strong arm and fast glass.

When you also put the regs in, have the glass all the way down, undo the glass, lift it up and jam in place, remove towards the front of the door a runner that goes from top to bottom as this will prevent the reg coming out

That is all I can really think of, hope it helps.

Ahhh thanks Ers! :D
Dont know where you found that quote though?! I looked for ages!!

Twas from a pm.

That was for the advance, if you have an exec like mine you need to go a little further.

Read my thead in members machines, there is some fairly detailed pics there

In short, with the exec you need also to fit the lhs loom as well as the main under dash loom (goes along the support bar).

It sounds big but to be honest the dash is easy to remove, on the weekend I had mine our again to fit a VRX dash and had it back in again in a couple hours including taking time out to weld onto the support bar the brackets to fit the pass side airbag.

PM me if you want a complete list.

Oh and while you are there get your Crusie control bits and fit it, is well worth it

That was for the advance, if you have an exec like mine you need to go a little further.

Read my thead in members machines, there is some fairly detailed pics there

In short, with the exec you need also to fit the lhs loom as well as the main under dash loom (goes along the support bar).

It sounds big but to be honest the dash is easy to remove, on the weekend I had mine our again to fit a VRX dash and had it back in again in a couple hours including taking time out to weld onto the support bar the brackets to fit the pass side airbag.

PM me if you want a complete list.

Oh and while you are there get your Crusie control bits and fit it, is well worth it


Ahhh yes Sorry I was supposed to say:
"-Dash loom (Although I think my car already has this as its an Advance)" My bad

Yeah so my car already has cruise.
Thanks Madmagna! I will be sure to check out your thread!

EDIT: Hey madmagna in your members machines thread you say you need "Speaker mount for front doors (is different)", Would you be able to explain exactly what these are? I have MDF speaker baffles already in there. Is this going to be a problem?

the ones to fit into power window door trims are bigger and at an angle the original ones wont fit in snug.

Rang up Mitsubie and magnawreck today. Magnawreck had no magnas with power windows, but mitsubie did.
Mitsubie wanted $165 for each regulator, $100 per door trim and $20 each switch. HOLY SH*T!! That means its gonna cost me $1000+ for power windows install. What a rip!... I could probably get it new and installed from mitsubishi for less than that!


How did you other guys who did power windows get it for so cheap?! :O

Rang up Mitsubie and magnawreck today. Magnawreck had no magnas with power windows, but mitsubie did.
Mitsubie wanted $165 for each regulator, $100 per door trim and $20 each switch. HOLY SH*T!! That means its gonna cost me $1000+ for power windows install. What a rip!... I could probably get it new and installed from mitsubishi for less than that!


How did you other guys who did power windows get it for so cheap?! :O

We in WA are not blessed with the choices that those in the eastern states have, would think it would be cheaper even after shipping to buy everything from people on the site mate

We in WA are not blessed with the choices that those in the eastern states have, would think it would be cheaper even after shipping to buy everything from people on the site mate

Yeah I think you may be right. I have put up a WTB thread, but with no luck so far :(

are the Th's the same as the TF's? ie looms etc, gradually getting all the parts together, just got some rear regulators for $15 each just have to wait for them to come up.

Ok I have just been thinking. The PW door trims are going to come with holes for the courtesy lights right?
This means that I am going to have to install some lights! Where would I get the power for the lights?
I couldnt take it from the PW cables as then they wouldnt work when the window lock was on.

Any Ideas? I would rather not trace them back to the battery if possible!!.....

EDIT: nvm, the looms I bought (Thanks Anna!) already have them!

Hey.. I'll be attempting this in a week or two. I'll let you know. I currently own a TF Executive 4cyl.
I've checked the Front-DS door and only the basic loom is in there, no connectors for the power windows. I suspect this to be the same for the left hand side. Connector B-20 (Front-DS door) only has 6 wires to it, if it supported power windows there should be another 6 on top of that. All 6 of those should connect into the Front-DS control switch, with 3 pairs of wires running back out through the door to with a pair each running through to the other doors (via B-91 and onto the other doors). Power comes through on pin 2 on B-20 and enters the master switch at pin 7.

Each door should have three wires running to it for the power windows, the pair from the Front-DS door, and a third which comes from pin 3 of connector B-73, which runs from the power window relay. I'm referencing from 9954c114.pdf page 64 of the downloadable workshop manual. I'm only a first year sparky apprentice so I appologise in advance if I've misread the circuit diagrams incorrectly.

Another idea I have is to use the central power window switch from an '04 magna (TJ is it?) and mount it in the center console. This would be easier to run the wires as it will be from a central location. I'm sure the switches wouldn't be difficult to adapt to the newer style. My only gripe is the Front-DS door switch... would a switch from the rear DS door fit in the front door as I don't want to replicate the center controls on the doors as well as the center dash...

I anticipate I'll require the following..
> Door trims.
> Speaker mounts.
> Relay (not currently fitted)
> Switches for each door (and/or center console switches)
> Matching connectors for the switches (I like to be able to attach/detach if needed)
> Wire and/or looms... (Stuff the looms, just wire up what I need, will need solder and heat shrink...)
> 4x Motors. (Are the motors swapable or does each door need it's own specifically fitted motor?)

Things I'm unsure about..
Does the wiring from the fuse/ relay box under the bonnet run into the dash via connector B-73 (pin3)? Or will I have to wire it straight from the relay?


*** EDIT
Made mistakes...

Well, I figured out what you meant by my car already having the LHS loom Madmagna! :D I was looking for an extra plug near the one that comes out the rear doors, when really I should have just looked at the number of wires coming from each plug!

Well this Rhs driver door connector is frikkin huge. Has like 20 wires coming out of it! So anyway, as I dont have the RHS car loom for my car I am just gonna have to make that myself. Although its basically just my rear right hand door that needs to be wired up I think? My car already has the dash and LHS loom So I think i just need to hook the rear RHS windows up and it should all be sweet.

Now, what I dont know is what wires I will need for the RHS rear door (From the drivers door switch). Im thinking that Im going to cut these 3 (I think) wires at the main front door loom and buy a 4 prong plug and hook them up to this. Then I will get some wires and stick a plug onto the other end which will hook up to the Rear rhs door loom.

So I have a question

1. Which of these wires are supposed to go to the rear right hand side door?

Front of the plug
http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt310/Rory_Newton/Picture015amc.jpg
Back of it..
http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt310/Rory_Newton/Picture017amc.jpg

(This is the plug that plugs into the drivers door switches, When I know which wires I need I will trace them back to the main plug and cut them off to hook up to another plug...)

mate i have no idea.. so this is a free bump


EDIT: when i get my power windoe looms from another member ill be able to tell you okay!, just gotta wait until friday ish

Does anybody know what will happen if I take out my RHS floor harness? (Apart from the central locking not working...) Im finding it a little hard to find a RHS power window harness, So im thinking instead of making a whole new harness, I will just add to the existing.....Good idea?
I still have no idea how the RHS harness is connected to the dashloom/front door loom/ whatever. In the manual it has like 4 different places where it connects?!
Anyway Im thinking of just taking out my harness and this way I get a better understanding of how it actually works. If it is just the central locking that wont work that is fine. I will just manually lock the doors and leave them like that for awhile as I am the only driver in my car so i only neeed the drivers door to open really..

And 1 more thing. Does the Driver side door loom actually plug into the RHS floor loom?? OR does it plug into the fusebox thingo and then the RHS floor loom plugs in somewhere else?

converted my TF advance to power windows this weekend this is what i learnt

TH or TH Sports atleast use differnt drivers side door harness similar to a verada, i went to plug mine in wouldnt go as there are way more pins and wires, passenger front and rear harness seem to be the same as in between TF/TH im using harness from the TH Sports in the other 3 doors and TF in the drivers door all the regs come from the sports

Power window drivers side main loom can run normal non power window harnesses as well as power windows if you want to do it in stages, if you unplug the harness to a door it just dissables locking on that door.

rear doors are fun to get the old winder out, undo the bottom of the guide closest to the piller and loosen the top and with the rite angle it comes out

the right hand side door harness plugs into the dash harness it splits off across the dash and to the fuse box or looked that way to me

converted my TF advance to power windows this weekend this is what i learnt

TH or TH Sports atleast use differnt drivers side door harness similar to a verada, i went to plug mine in wouldnt go as there are way more pins and wires, passenger front and rear harness seem to be the same im using harness from the TH Sports in the other 3 doors and TF in the drivers door all the regs come from the sports

Power window drivers side main loom can run normal non power window harnesses as well as power windows if you want to do it in stages, if you unplug the harness to a door it just dissables locking on that door.

rear doors are fun to get the old winder out, undo the bottom of the guide closest to the piller and loosen the top and with the rite angle it comes out

the right hand side door harness plugs into the dash harness it splits off across the dash and to the fuse box or looked that way to me

Thanks dude! Awesome info, will help alot!
Just one question. Can you explain exactly where the drivers door harness plugs into? Or maybe get a pic for me? Im still very confused as to where it actually plugs into the dash loom... :(

mine was plug and play in a TF Advance, unplug the drivers door standard harness, pluged in the power window one to the same place. if thats what you mean

The drivers door harness is plugged in up behind the junction box and goes through the pillar.

The drivers door harness is plugged in up behind the junction box and goes through the pillar.

Ok, Im getting sort of mixed answers here. Does the drivers door harness plug straight into the junction box, or does it plug into the dash harness which then plugs into the junction box? (The connector on the loom is only like 10cm from the rubber thing so i cant imagine it could reach the junction box..)

Hey PeteW, the connector on my drivers door harness is white and has like 3 rows of like 12 plug/pin thingos. Is it this type that wont fit into a TF Advance? Its pretty big.. If this is the type that wont fit is it possible for you to get a pic of the correct connector with the wires? Im thinking I will just cut off the connector from the original drivers door loom and then just stick it on the power windows one and just stick in the wires like they are supposed to be there...

ok the plug its self, my TF advance only has 2 rows of pins on the drivers door harness plug, the TH Sports i got the drivers door harness off to do the conversion has 3 rows of pins hence a thicker plug so i had to go get another drivers harness from a TF that had power windows and that was only 2 rows of pins to suit my dash loom, i still have the TH sports drivers loom that has 3 rows of pins where it plugs into the dash. id check before buying a drivers door harness, you will find the other 3 doors use the 2 rows of pins type setup, if its 3 rows like you have discribed pay for post and sling the club a few bux and you can use the one i have here

ok the plug its self, my TF advance only has 2 rows of pins on the drivers door harness plug, the TH Sports i got the drivers door harness off to do the conversion has 3 rows of pins hence a thicker plug so i had to go get another drivers harness from a TF that had power windows and that was only 2 rows of pins to suit my dash loom, i still have the TH sports drivers loom that has 3 rows of pins where it plugs into the dash

Damn. That means I do have the wrong connector as I also have a TF advance.
What I was thinking of doing though is to cut the connector off my non pw drivers door loom, and use this connector instead of the huge one on the TH drivers loom I have. So I will cut off the 3 row connector from the pw loom and attach the 2 row one instead. But what I need to know is where the wires on the connector actually go! So Im looking for a pic of a TF one, and then I can wire up my one the same! Surely the colours on the TF/TH must be the same..
So do you maybe have a picture of your TF pw drivers door loom connector so I can see exactly where the wires go on it? That way I can rewire mine the same. :D

EDIT: I have already bought the looms and only the drivers door loom seems to have the 3 rows. As I also have a TF advance I think I will need the 2 rows like you did. :( Thanks for the offer though mate. :)

ahh now im with ya :) wish i had of known yesterday when its all out i would have taken a snap mines all mounted up and the car is parked in a shed in the next town as i only drive it weekends :( pop a post in wtb for a tf power window harness im sure someone will help out

ahh now im with ya :) wish i had of known yesterday when its all out i would have taken a snap mines all mounted up and the car is parked in a shed in the next town as i only drive it weekends :( pop a post in wtb for a tf power window harness im sure someone will help out

Awwwww :( Damn.
Im not really looking to spend more monies though when its like a 10 min job to switch over the connectors! I just need to see a pic of where each colour wire goes on the connector TF connector! :(

hang tight till next sunday if i rember ill get mal to snap a pic when we fix my heater core leak

hang tight till next sunday if i rember ill get mal to snap a pic when we fix my heater core leak

:D Thanks Pete! That would be awesome! :D

Wow.. What a pain in the ****.

I fitted the passenger side regulator on Thursday, that took about 2 hours. It was just retarded and a total head-ache. I only have a TF-Executive, so the power window looms weren't present and had to make up my own loom. I crimped a splice connection onto the blue power input coming from the relay box, as I couldn't find where the wire ran to under the dash. I ran the power lead along side the loom that is fed into the car dash and wrapped it up in black electrical tape, along with the main loom, looks professional.
As I'm using the TL floor console mounted power window buttons, thats where I ran the wire to. I'm using VRX door trims/cards from a TJ, and have wired up the regulators as per TL wiring diagrams. This renders the passenger and drivers side door switches useless, so I'll be cutting out the switches from the pannels and sealing them up with putty and sanding them back to create an empty pannel. The rear door switches will function as per normal.

Wow.. What a pain in the ****.

I fitted the passenger side regulator on Thursday, that took about 2 hours. It was just retarded and a total head-ache. I only have a TF-Executive, so the power window looms weren't present and had to make up my own loom. I crimped a splice connection onto the blue power input coming from the relay box, as I couldn't find where the wire ran to under the dash. I ran the power lead along side the loom that is fed into the car dash and wrapped it up in black electrical tape, along with the main loom, looks professional.
As I'm using the TL floor console mounted power window buttons, thats where I ran the wire to. I'm using VRX door trims/cards from a TJ, and have wired up the regulators as per TL wiring diagrams. This renders the passenger and drivers side door switches useless, so I'll be cutting out the switches from the pannels and sealing them up with putty and sanding them back to create an empty pannel. The rear door switches will function as per normal.

So when you say 'floor console' do you mean the dash trims bit with the cupholders? (Infront of the glovebox?).
Sounds good dude! Would love to see some pics! :D I also would love to see some pics of the front door switches when they have been puttied!

Yeah the cupholder part. That cupholder part sits up differently than the TE-TJ ones. It'll still fit in, just you'll need a new lid that fits on the end that is raised higher than the TE-TJ ones. I can't do before and after shots, the old console is in the bin at work. I'll post shots tomorrow.

Consider yourself lucky that you have the loom there in your car already.. Was a real bitch redoing the engine loom. Had to take everything out, and rewrap it. My back is killing.

Yeah the cupholder part. That cupholder part sits up differently than the TE-TJ ones. It'll still fit in, just you'll need a new lid that fits on the end that is raised higher than the TE-TJ ones. I can't do before and after shots, the old console is in the bin at work. I'll post shots tomorrow.

Consider yourself lucky that you have the loom there in your car already.. Was a real bitch redoing the engine loom. Had to take everything out, and rewrap it. My back is killing.

If my car didnt already have the dash loom, I wouldnt even consider doing a power window conversion! So good on ya for doing it mate and im glad it turned out well for ya! :)

If my car didnt already have the dash loom, I wouldnt even consider doing a power window conversion! So good on ya for doing it mate and im glad it turned out well for ya! :)

Ummm and why,

So you would not do the conversion because of about 4 hours extra work even for a first timer

The dash harnes is plug and play, every single plug is unique and the loom itself is about the easiest loom in the whole car to change


Yeah the cupholder part. That cupholder part sits up differently than the TE-TJ ones. It'll still fit in, just you'll need a new lid that fits on the end that is raised higher than the TE-TJ ones. I can't do before and after shots, the old console is in the bin at work. I'll post shots tomorrow.

Consider yourself lucky that you have the loom there in your car already.. Was a real bitch redoing the engine loom. Had to take everything out, and rewrap it. My back is killing.

For the Magna TE-F ALL of them have the correct engine bay loom for the power windows and the cruise, the only difference is the Verada which has foggies and alarm switch and horn plugs

TH onwards same thing but different loom

In short, there is no reason at all to change an engine bay loom

Ummm and why,

So you would not do the conversion because of about 4 hours extra work even for a first timer

The dash harnes is plug and play, every single plug is unique and the loom itself is about the easiest loom in the whole car to change

Oh really?? I was told it was the most difficult bit in the conversion! Well in that case, I take back what I said. I would still do the conversion even if i didnt have the dash loom :P

Ummm and why,

So you would not do the conversion because of about 4 hours extra work even for a first timer

The dash harnes is plug and play, every single plug is unique and the loom itself is about the easiest loom in the whole car to change



For the Magna TE-F ALL of them have the correct engine bay loom for the power windows and the cruise, the only difference is the Verada which has foggies and alarm switch and horn plugs

TH onwards same thing but different loom

In short, there is no reason at all to change an engine bay loom

I still need to deposit the cash into your account for the glove box. I've had unexpected expenses while installing my paras - ie. no bulbs. There was nothing wrong with the engine loom. I could't find where the wire from the relay is terminated in the dash, nor did I have any tools to test the continuity if I did find it. I suspect it was behind the cluster, which would have ment the dash to come out. When I put in the VR-X dash I'll have a proper look, what I've done now is only a temp job, but will last as long as I need it to, or untill I hook it up to the right plug in the dash. As long as the relay and the fuse is in the circuit and the windows go up and down I'm happy.

Ok, a bit of an update. I put in most of my PW looms 2 days ago! (RHS Floor, Rear door looms and front left dppr loom). So all I have to do now is the Drivers door loom! Im planning on doing that when I get some regs.

One thing I have noticed though is that the courtesy light on my front LHS door isnt working. I stick the multimeter in it and get nothing, whether the door is open or closed. I have also noticed that my car is autolocking after 30seconds regardless of whether I open the drivers door or not, so this indicates that the switch (to tell if the door is open) isnt working. I think it is a wiring problem though as I can manually press in the switch but still I get no power to the courtesy light. Im guessing that the RHS floor loom hasnt got the wires needed or maybe the TH magna's used a different wire on the connectors to my TF so they arent connecting? I wish they would work though... :(

I also had to hook up some wires to the new floor loom as I found out the TH magna has its brake light on the roof (Top of the rear window), whereas my TF has it on the bottom. So my lights are all good now! :D

MadMagna, PeteW, or one of the other guys that has done the conversion (Cant remember ur usernames), did you manage to get your courtesy lights to work? And which model magna was your floor loom from?

i still have to do my shelf beak light wire, the door lights worked off the bat for me id check the fuse maybe? have you fitted the relay under the bonnet for the windows yet? dont quote me but maybe they run the door light power also, in the end all harness'ess'ess :) and loom but the drivers door came from the TH sports the drivers one had to be out of a TF for the plug issue

i still have to do my shelf beak light wire, the door lights worked off the bat for me id check the fuse maybe? have you fitted the relay under the bonnet for the windows yet? dont quote me but maybe they run the door light power also, in the end all harness'ess'ess :) and loom but the drivers door came from the TH sports the drivers one had to be out of a TF for the plug issue

Ohhhh Good thinkin! I will head down to the wreckers next week and pick up a relay!

Oh yeah, I forgot about that. I still have the problem of the drivers door loom. Arrgg. Mal didnt reply when I pm'd about a pic, so I dont know what to do now. I cant seem to find a TF pw door loom. Nor can I find pw door regs for a decent price (Apart from the ones on ebay that sold for $52 coz my *********** iphone dropped the network in the last min of bidding... ) :( :( :(

Dear sir. Here is the wiring print for the courtesy lights. It runs in series of the door switch. It shows what the connector numbers and pin numbers. This is from the TH manual. The door trims I have also have holes cut out for the lights, so I'll have to do it too, except I'll have to run my own loom again. I have no testing gear so I can't test for voltage and stuff.

I removed the braking light from my parcel shelf and changed the trim over.

I'll check this arvo... but I'm almost certain that TE's and TF's don't have a BEM, which could present a problem if the courtesy lights power is supplied from the BEM. Someone else might have more of an idea though.

I have a feeling you are correct, that BEM didn't appear until later - it's def in TJ, not sure if it arrived in TH or earlier. If no BEM, you could just run courtesy lamps off interior "room" lights - only thing being you will have both door lamps lit with one door open (stuff like that I could live with).

Oi.. No go with putting the light in series with the switch. She won't light up. I'll get the multimeter onto it later on this week.

Ohhhh Good thinkin! I will head down to the wreckers next week and pick up a relay!

Oh yeah, I forgot about that. I still have the problem of the drivers door loom. Arrgg. Mal didnt reply when I pm'd about a pic, so I dont know what to do now. I cant seem to find a TF pw door loom. Nor can I find pw door regs for a decent price (Apart from the ones on ebay that sold for $52 coz my *********** iphone dropped the network in the last min of bidding... ) :( :( :(

hey man just to let you know i was the one who got the regs from ebay for $52 lol and i got the switches from him aswell for $18.
i finished the conversion today but me drivers rear door only goes down from local switch and not at all from drivers switch.
my guess is the only drivers loom i could find was a KH where the rest is KF 1 wire is diff colour on KH loom..... ill grab a KF driver door loom soon to test it out.

i sort of did what you were going to do i un pinned the 3 row plug and matched up the colour wires into the 2 row plug

I hve been playing with looms as well for different reasons and have found some interesting things

The KF XI has the 3 row plug like the TH

The 3 row plug is a completely different set up as is the wiring as the TH and the XI KF all have a BEM set up (more antiquated in the KF), without this plugged in it will not work (same as the receiver in the TF)

Another thing Brett, you have have a faulty drivers switch becuase if the wiring was wrong it would not work from the rear switch either

Sorry about the pic but have been very busy and simply have not had a chance to get a pic

I hve been playing with looms as well for different reasons and have found some interesting things

The KF XI has the 3 row plug like the TH

The 3 row plug is a completely different set up as is the wiring as the TH and the XI KF all have a BEM set up (more antiquated in the KF), without this plugged in it will not work (same as the receiver in the TF)

Another thing Brett, you have have a faulty drivers switch becuase if the wiring was wrong it would not work from the rear switch either

Sorry about the pic but have been very busy and simply have not had a chance to get a pic

cant be faulty mate lol i thought of that so i put it into annes varada and it worked fine in there lol but i will investigate further.

hey man just to let you know i was the one who got the regs from ebay for $52 lol and i got the switches from him aswell for $18.
i finished the conversion today but me drivers rear door only goes down from local switch and not at all from drivers switch.
my guess is the only drivers loom i could find was a KH where the rest is KF 1 wire is diff colour on KH loom..... ill grab a KF driver door loom soon to test it out.

i sort of did what you were going to do i un pinned the 3 row plug and matched up the colour wires into the 2 row plug

wow you have no idea how much I hate you right now.. lol
Though seriously, this conversion thing really isnt working out well for me.. I have already spent over $450 and I still need switches, a drivers door loom and a relay. Im starting to regret doing this *********** conversion.. :(

wow you have no idea how much I hate you right now.. lol
Though seriously, this conversion thing really isnt working out well for me.. I have already spent over $450 and I still need switches, a drivers door loom and a relay. Im starting to regret doing this *********** conversion.. :(

your going to hate me even more lol ive only spent $160 :facejump:

your going to hate me even more lol ive only spent $160 :facejump:

and that makes me feel just great :(
Nah, good on ya man, atleast 1 of us is having some good luck. Enjoy your windows dude...

Well add to that ABS, SRS, Cruise, Elec Windows, Climate Control and then you start to catch up lol

You are best off getting the loom that matches the car you have, I will be at the local wrecker on Friday, what car do you have and I will look. I think they charge 19 bucks for a loom or part thereof. SHould be under 3kg so can go in an express post bag

Well add to that ABS, SRS, Cruise, Elec Windows, Climate Control and then you start to catch up lol

You are best off getting the loom that matches the car you have, I will be at the local wrecker on Friday, what car do you have and I will look. I think they charge 19 bucks for a loom or part thereof. SHould be under 3kg so can go in an express post bag

Ahha yeah well luckily my car came with ABS, SRS and Cruise otherwise I think I would have spent more than I paid for the actual car trying to get these few features...

I have a TF Advance (Same as yours I think?). Would be great if you could have a look for me. Could you also maybe see if they have any switches? Thanks Mal, I appreciate all your help.

No worries, will have a gander for you, I think I have some rear switches and some fronts less the panels, will have a look for you

No worries, will have a gander for you, I think I have some rear switches and some fronts less the panels, will have a look for you

Thanks mate

Hey Madmagna did you manage to find anything at the wreckers on friday?

Could somebody please try and get a pic of a 2 row connector on the end of a TF/TE drivers power window loom? I really need to know what wires go where coz none of the wreckers have this loom so Im gonna have to wire it myself. :(

Mate, the place where the loom is a damned hard place to get to, why not just get the 2 row door harness you actually need?

Surely someone here on the forums will be going to a wrecker soon enogh to get one, if not dont cut your harness, just de pin it, grab a wiring diagram and plug in off that.

The dash harness, if you remove the lower tray under the dash can be pulled back and you can match up the wires

Grab your 3 row harness, de pin it, de pin the 2 row and place the wires that match in it one by one as you depin them, then you can just locate the rest by looking at the dash harness and matching up from there

Mate, the place where the loom is a damned hard place to get to, why not just get the 2 row door harness you actually need?

Surely someone here on the forums will be going to a wrecker soon enogh to get one, if not dont cut your harness, just de pin it, grab a wiring diagram and plug in off that.

The dash harness, if you remove the lower tray under the dash can be pulled back and you can match up the wires

Grab your 3 row harness, de pin it, de pin the 2 row and place the wires that match in it one by one as you depin them, then you can just locate the rest by looking at the dash harness and matching up from there

I would really prefer a 2 row door harness, but none of the wreckers in my area have any, and Ive had a WTB thread up for ages! :(
It seems my manual only has TH/KH and up! Ive been looking in it and it has the 3 row connector which isnt what I want.
Mal, do you know if the dash harness in a TF has exactly the same colour wires as a TH door harnesses? Im pretty sure last time I checked, the dash harness connector had lots of random colours compared to my 3 row plug! Maybe I'll go have another look when it stops raining outside. Cheers for the help mate

I think the most tricky bit will be de-pining the connectors. I had to do this for the central locking as one of the harnesses has the pos and neg around the wrong way (weird that it was only one of the looms), and it took me like 2 hours to get the 2 pins out! And I think I mutilated the little clippy thing inside the connector that holds the pins in. There must be an easier way....

EDIT: VRX_MYO2 just responded in my WTB thread! There might be hope after all! :D

Another quick question, does anybody know if I can use parker bulbs as courtesy lights? I Had two parker bulbs that came with some healight globes, but they are the wedge type so they dont fit my parras. They do however fit the courtesy light globe holder thingo. I plugged them in to the courtesy light globe holder and they worked fine, but can this be a permanent thing? I think the parkers may be quartz glass or something, will this be a problem? Would be great if I could use them as they have just been sitting around for ages...

You'll need to keep an eye on how hot the courtesy light and the wiring gets ie: make sure the light fitting / wiring doesn't overheat / melt.

Cheers

i picked up a 2 tf door loom today im about to plug it in instead of the re pinned 3 row plug and see if it fixes my problem and ill let you know if it was the re pinning of the 3 row loom.

i picked up a 2 tf door loom today im about to plug it in instead of the re pinned 3 row plug and see if it fixes my problem and ill let you know if it was the re pinning of the 3 row loom.

Hey mate, Would you be able to quickly take a pic for me of the wires?? And maybe the wires on the switch connector? That would be aweessome and would really help me with the repinning!! :D

rory dont even bother with re pinning the 3 row plug ive used one for the last wek and doesnt work properly .... i put the two row one in and it all works fine now .... ill keep an eye out for yah and let you know when i grab one for you there only $20.

rory dont even bother with re pinning the 3 row plug ive used one for the last wek and doesnt work properly .... i put the two row one in and it all works fine now .... ill keep an eye out for yah and let you know when i grab one for you there only $20.

That would be awesome, cheers mate!

Well, as I havent found a TF drivers door loom I am forced to repin the 3 row connector to the 2 row. I went out to my car today and took of the rear door door trim so that I could use the beeper function thing on the multimeter to test which connectors connected to which wires on the end of my passengers door loom (So I could trace back to the dash loom to find out which pin goes where). Turns out that the 'TH power windows floor loom' I was sold for $53 doesnt have the wiring for the pw door loom?! FFS. All 3 wires that are supposed to go back to the dash plug arent on the floor loom door connector. WTF. The guy said it was a *********** power windows door loom. So now im really pissed off. I am going to have to make my own wiring whether I like it or not as it took me agess to find this loom and I dont have the money to get new a loom anyway. I dont even have a wiring diagram. ARGG This is a bloody nightmare. :(

EDIT: Looks like I wont even be able to make up my own wiring as I have no idea where the pw cables from the floor loom are supposed to plug into.. :( There are 3 big plugs on the end of the floor loom, how am I gonna find where the wires are supposed to go?!

Well, as I havent found a TF drivers door loom I am forced to repin the 3 row connector to the 2 row. I went out to my car today and took of the rear door door trim so that I could use the beeper function thing on the multimeter to test which connectors connected to which wires on the end of my passengers door loom (So I could trace back to the dash loom to find out which pin goes where). Turns out that the 'TH power windows floor loom' I was sold for $53 doesnt have the wiring for the pw door loom?! FFS. All 3 wires that are supposed to go back to the dash plug arent on the floor loom door connector. WTF. The guy said it was a *********** power windows door loom. So now im really pissed off. I am going to have to make my own wiring whether I like it or not as it took me agess to find this loom and I dont have the money to get new a loom anyway. I dont even have a wiring diagram. ARGG This is a bloody nightmare. :(

good luck mate, I feel your pain, i'm gunna have to do this next week, just waiting on my door switches and surrounds to arrive...

Mate, have looked several times at the local wreckers for you and so far found nothing.

If you can hang out another week, I will be back there next week and they will by then have new stock so may be in luck

Mate, have looked several times at the local wreckers for you and so far found nothing.

If you can hang out another week, I will be back there next week and they will by then have new stock so may be in luck

Hey mal, thanks for doing that for me mate, really appreciate all the help :) I can def wait another week...

EDIT: Does anybody know where to look in the manual for the floor loom configuration diagram? Or the diagram for the connector that hooks up to the front door loom? They dont seem to be under 'power windows' but I dont know what else they could be called?

Also, Is there an online manual for a TF magna?! The only one I could find was the one for the TH and up, but I really need the TF one for the dash/door loom connector I think....

No reply yet from the guy I bought the 'TH power windows loom" from.

The good news is that I managed to repin my drivers door loom today! Heres a pic http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt310/Rory_Newton/Picture039.jpg I matched all the existing wires up on the new loom from the old one (and traced them back to make sure they were exactly as they were on my old loom). I then matched all the colours of the pw wires to the wires of the dash loom thingo where my loom plugs into. There was only one wires that didnt match up (Was green with blue stripe instead of green with red stripe, but as the other RHS power window wire was brown with blue stripes im guessing it will be alright...). Only had 2 wires remaining, but they were from this clip : http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt310/Rory_Newton/Picture032.jpg
There were no wires in the dash loom connector thing that matched this (all the wires were taken anyway), so this obviously wouldnt hoook up to my dash loom anyway!. Does anybody know what this clip is for?? It wasnt on my old door loom.

I know almost exactly how im gonna make up this new floor loom (As I dont think the seller will be able to find me another), I know where each colour is supposed to hook up on each connector so it should be fairly simple. I Just need another 2 pins that will fit this connector!!: http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt310/Rory_Newton/Picture040.jpg

EDIT: I looked in the manual, I think its a "Door key cylinder switch" connector, dont know what the hell that is though!!

I will be modifying my old floor loom as the new one is basically the same and atleast the old one had the wires I needed for my model car and not the TH extra few wires... This also means that I can hopefully send the new loom back and get my money back as it was not as it was described!!! I could use a few pins from the new loom to complete my old/modified loom, but this means that I wont be able to send it back as it will be non usable without these pins. This means that i wont get the $53 back though...... 2 pins for $53 doesnt seem worth it. So does somebody know where I could get some pins to suit the connector pictured above?

GREAT SUCCESS!
I spent the last two days making the new floor loom- and it all works! :D Even my re-pinned drivers door loom works! My conversion is almost finished!! Just gonna take out the regs and 'rejuvinate them', but should only take like 5mins to get the regs out now that I know what im doing. I found that taking out the extra few screws and taking the whole glass out really does make it easy!! So just got to put the car back together now! (Its still in bits atm....). Sweeet! :D:D

Oh btw the guy on ebay that sold me the wrong loom never replied to my emails. That is why I made my own loom... I had to use the pins from the loom though, so now I cant get my money back anyway.... but oh well, atleast my home made loom works! :D So happy! :D

good work man :D

so glad i went got a 2 row door harness to do mine man you will love fast glass adds a new lvl of stile to your car, good job, those wires spare look like for the heated merriors if its a 3 row harness, i know the arnt for the lights in the trim