Ok i know this question has been asked many times before. I've seen the threads. But there was no clear conclusion. Some of the recommendations are very expensive, I'm not made of money so i hope you can understand why i'm starting yet another thread on this.

There are 4 main recommendations that i've been able to see.


Castrol VMX-M Recommended Oil in workshop manual (Approx $50 for 4L) (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showpost.php?p=726873&postcount=1)

Despite whats been said about this oil, I've used this for 2 gear oil changes. And I still have a very notchy gearbox. Thats why i'm looking for an alternative.

Castrol SynTrax 75w-85 (Approx $30 for 1L) (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showpost.php?p=727022&postcount=5)

I was at Autobarn today and had a look. $31.95 for 1L, so its expensive. Also it says that it can be used in any application where Castrol VMX-M is recommended.

Redline Synthetic (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showpost.php?p=699728&postcount=8) Manual Transmission Oil 75w-90 (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showpost.php?p=727243&postcount=8)

I havent seen the price of this oil, but from what i've read i assume its similar to the price of the Syntarx

Valvoline Duragear synthetic blend oil. sal 75w- 85 API-4. (Approx $35 for 4L) (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showpost.php?p=702950&postcount=26)

The cheapest option, so the most attractive option. But I dont want to rush out and buy this and find out that it has similar performance to VMX-M


I don't want to hear anyone telling me that my syncro is stuffed, i need to reco my gearbox or have a look at my clutch. I'm asking about the best oil to use here, nothing else.

These posts I've linked to are at least a year old, so hopefully by now there should be an oil which stands out in both performance and cost. I would love to hear what you have to say about the oils i've listed and if you have any further recommendations.

Agree that VMX-M did nothing to improve my 1st 2nd and 3rd gear.

also keen too hear more,

have you tried nulon manual gearbox tretment? it did wonders for mine, just add it to your current oil and try it.

have you tried nulon manual gearbox tretment? it did wonders for mine, just add it to your current oil and try it.

Thanks, I'm assuming its cheap (no more than $10) If it is I'll buy it tomorrow afternoon, and let you know how it goes the following morning with a cold start. But still i would like to have my question in my OP answered.

heard some good things about the redline oil
but last time i checked i think it was about 40 bucks a litre acouple of years back, not cheap stuff

i used the redline synthetic oil in my gearbox and found that when i changed through the gears it was a lot more smoother. like others have said its not cheap and you need 3 bottles. try bursons and ask for a trade price cos they most likely will give you a discount

Castrol Syntrans 75W-85 (http://www.tds.castrol.com.au/pdf%5C8991_Syntrans75W-85_450399_200703.pdf). Designed for Mitsubishi manual transmissions.
My syncros used to snick on a 1st - 2nd gear change, no matter how careful I was. Cold oil would exasibate the problem.
I changed the oil to Syntrans 75W-85 a bit over 1 1/2 years a go.
Shifts smoothly through the gears now, including spirited driving. Problem hasn't come back in the last 30,000kms since I changed it.
Yes it's not cheap. Was $25 a litre when I bought it and yes you need three bottles. IMO it's money well spent.

I have no experience specifically with the Magna manual box but have over time come across lots of "sticky" syncros when gears are cold or clutch is hot.

The usual solution is to go for a lighter grade gear oil than recommended, or switch to a synthetic.

Two relatively cheap mineral oils that work very well in such situations are Castrol VMX 80 or Castrol Dexron III auto trans fluid. How well these go with the Magna box I don't know but both can be used in heavy truck boxes. VMX 80 is the usual fill for most front wheel drive manuals, and many rear drive manuals too. It a light oil 10.5, compared to VMX M is 12.0; Dexron III is 7.2 and synthetic auto Castrol Transmax Z is 7.1.

In your post you mention Castrol Syntrax 75/90 synthetic, that is a relatively heavy oil 14.5 and I don't think its recommended for Magnas as they don't have a hypoid diff. It would make gear changes even stiffer.

Castrol Syntrans 75/85 synthetic is probably what you meant. It is rated 11.9.

Cheers,
Alan

Alan, just a couple things.

The reason I started this thread was because the Mitsubishi recommended gear oil (Castrol VMX-M) is no good. So why should i be paying attention to what they recomend over what has been prooven to be a better performing alternative. I only mentioned the Castrol Syntrax because other members have had major improvements in gear changing when using the alternative Syntrax oil.

I'm only going on advice here. But in older threads people were recommending Castrol Syntrax. I almost bought 3 bottles of the stuff today (for almost $100!) but thought nah i'll check on AMC first. Now it seems that Syntrans is the go. I'm now officially confused, and not entirely convinced that Syntrans is whats going to be best from my experience with VMX. So maybe the heavier Syntrax could be the 'magical' oil.

These are the inconsistancies that i want cleared up in this thread. But at least we've settled that the VMX-M is no good. A good choice is between:


Castrol Syntrans - 75w-85 (11.9 Much closer weight to what Mistubishi recommends. Allthough Mitsubishi recommends VMX-M which many have reported terrible performance in the cold)
Castrol Syntrax - 75w-90 (14.5 Heavier gear oil, but older threads indicate that its the magic fix to a notchy gearbox)


All Thoughts will be appreciated. And what exactly do you mean by weight?

On another note, i was speaking to a mechanic friend of mine, he said that he was having terribe syncro problems in an older car that he was fixing up, and all he did was put a small ammount of engine oil into the geabox and it fixed the problem right up. I'm not saying that people should start doing this to their mitsubishi's because obviously its a completely different geabox, but i'm just curious to why this would work?

Sorry for the double post, but i wanted to show clearly the reason why i've settled on this oil.

In this earlier thread (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49870&highlight=syntrax) i read where Chisholm recommended the Castrol Syntrax. But the key thing that i didnt initially pick up on was that he was only trying to recall what he had used in the past. When infact, it's more than likely that he actually used the Syntrans oil. Look at the bottom post by Madjack, he mentioned Syntrans as if it was a mistake to be calling it Syntrax.

I'm sorry for all the confusion! My mistake!:nuts:

So it seems that the oil to get for a notchy 3rd gen gearbox is the

Castrol Syntrans Manual 75w-85


I'm going to be buying the Syntrans oil and changing it tomorrow morning. I'll let you all know how it goes. Sorry bellto i wont be trying the Nulon Gearbox Treatment.

Ok i know this question has been asked many times before. I've seen the threads. But there was no clear conclusion. Some of the recommendations are very expensive, I'm not made of money so i hope you can understand why i'm starting yet another thread on this.

There are 4 main recommendations that i've been able to see.


Castrol VMX-M Recommended Oil in workshop manual (Approx $50 for 4L) (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showpost.php?p=726873&postcount=1)

Despite whats been said about this oil, I've used this for 2 gear oil changes. And I still have a very notchy gearbox. Thats why i'm looking for an alternative.

Castrol SynTrax 75w-85 (Approx $30 for 1L) (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showpost.php?p=727022&postcount=5)

I was at Autobarn today and had a look. $31.95 for 1L, so its expensive. Also it says that it can be used in any application where Castrol VMX-M is recommended.

Redline Synthetic (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showpost.php?p=699728&postcount=8) Manual Transmission Oil 75w-90 (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showpost.php?p=727243&postcount=8)

I havent seen the price of this oil, but from what i've read i assume its similar to the price of the Syntarx

Valvoline Duragear synthetic blend oil. sal 75w- 85 API-4. (Approx $35 for 4L) (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showpost.php?p=702950&postcount=26)

The cheapest option, so the most attractive option. But I dont want to rush out and buy this and find out that it has similar performance to VMX-M


I don't want to hear anyone telling me that my syncro is stuffed, i need to reco my gearbox or have a look at my clutch. I'm asking about the best oil to use here, nothing else.

These posts I've linked to are at least a year old, so hopefully by now there should be an oil which stands out in both performance and cost. I would love to hear what you have to say about the oils i've listed and if you have any further recommendations.

You can get Redline for $27 per L, i got my Amsoil from them too. Here the link: http://www.performancelub.com/

You should mix 50/50 of MTL and MT90 for best shifting effect, Redline is known for it's gear oil performance, expensive but works.

Thanks for showing me the website, but i don't want to wait for oil to be delivered to me. I'm about to leave and get the Castrol Syntrans, which will work out cheaper anyway - no postage costs.

im running redline and its honestly the best ive used so far.. so so smooth hot or cold...

Thanks for showing me the website, but i don't want to wait for oil to be delivered to me. I'm about to leave and get the Castrol Syntrans, which will work out cheaper anyway - no postage costs.
Performancelub guy is in or near Heidelberg for future reference for other Melbourneites
I've bought spark plugs from him before and he mentioned pick up was was available

Redline MT90.

50/50 Mixture of MTL and MT90 is the best combo, I had tried everything and nothing works until someone recommend that i try Redline. It works very very well and solve most of my engagement problem on my previous Honda. Hope you find your solution on that Castrol Syntrans.

50/50 Mixture of MTL and MT90 is the best combo, I had tried everything and nothing works until someone recommend that i try Redline. It works very very well and solve most of my engagement problem on my previous Honda. Hope you find your solution on that Castrol Syntrans.

Thanks man, I got the Systrans this morning, but havent been able to put it in yet. For some reason the mechanic had overtightened the crap out of the sump plug and sheered the edges of the nut. So i had to go to Mitsubishi spares and order a new one. I still can't get the plug to loosen, any ideas for undooing a damaged sump plug?

Alan, just a couple things.

All Thoughts will be appreciated. And what exactly do you mean by weight?

On another note, i was speaking to a mechanic friend of mine, he said that he was having terribe syncro problems in an older car that he was fixing up, and all he did was put a small ammount of engine oil into the geabox and it fixed the problem right up. I'm not saying that people should start doing this to their mitsubishi's because obviously its a completely different geabox, but i'm just curious to why this would work?

OK, sorry I should have explained the numbers. They are measured viscosity numbers. Bigger number thicker, smaller number thinner. Thinner oils shift better but there can be issues with gear rattle at idle(clutch out, in neutral).

The Castrol Syntrans Syntrax thing is very stupid and confusing. I suppose they expect people to be able to figure out that trans means transmission.

Use of engine oil in gearbox was the norm years ago for many cars but usually makes shifting harder as engine oils are a lot thicker than gear oil. Disregard the numbers on the pack, both types of oil are rated differently. A 80 grade gear oil is about 5W/30 grade engine oil, 90 grade is about 5W/40 grade.

Cheers,
Alan

Just talked to Harold, my Amsoil vendor about using engine oil as gear oil. Apparently some older spec engine oil does worked and improve shifting for while but will increase the transmission wear rate so much that it's not a good idea. quick fix but not a long term solution. He was talking about some extreme pressure additives that the engine oil lack that's apparently the problem, something like that..

Don't forget the diff runs in the gearbox oil. It needs EP (extreme pressure) additives to prevent wear on the diff. Ordinary engine oil does not have this.

My take on the topic: I use Castrol VMX oil only and have done so for 20 years. If I get difficult shifts or synchro problems I know there is something wrong with the clutch or gearbox. Searching for the "right" oil to cover up for a warped clutch plate or sticking/worn synchros is a waste of time - but that's just my opinion.

"any ideas for undooing a damaged sump plug?"

Monkey wrench.
Angle grinder - slice the head off, slowly and carefully. When it is paper thin it magically loosens.

also keen too hear more,

have you tried nulon manual gearbox tretment? it did wonders for mine, just add it to your current oil and try it.Also would like to know how much this is.

Redline MTL would be the way to go for the gearbox. I have used it in my 93 triton and a 1984 turbo cordia and it made the synchro's work so much smoother.
Hopefully the syntrans works for you.
When you change the oil, go for a good drive (20-30kms) to get some heat into the gearbox oil and allow it to work through all the moving parts.

In regards to an earlier post about engine oil in gearboxes, The problem is that engine oil does not have the shear additives that gear oil contains and breaks down much quicker due to the gears meshing together.

REgards

Epitrochoid

I knew that:gfight:

Also would like to know how much this is.

$11 or so. supposed to stop wear by 50%.

this is what it looks like......... http://www.nulon.com.au/files/images/speciality/G70/G70-250.jpg

Just talked to Harold, my Amsoil vendor about using engine oil as gear oil. Apparently some older spec engine oil does worked and improve shifting for while but will increase the transmission wear rate so much that it's not a good idea. quick fix but not a long term solution. He was talking about some extreme pressure additives that the engine oil lack that's apparently the problem, something like that..

Most gearboxes don't require extreme pressure (EP) additives. Those that do, like Subaru, have a hypoid diff/gearbox transaxle unit. The hypoid diff needs EP fluid.

In competition many gearboxes run Castrol R30 engine oil. Some race transaxles do too.

Most motorcycles have gear box in the sump lubed by engine oil. They run fairly small gears and big HP. The early front wheel drive cars, Mini and Austin 1800 etc, all had gearbox in the sump.

However it is usually better not to use engine oil in gearboxes. It stiffens up/slows up gear shifting and the gears chop up the polymers present in most mineral and semi-syn (and some full syn) oils.

Cheers,
Alan

Thanks for all your input guys, i really appreciate it. I'm just waiting for the new sump plug to arrive (hopefully tomorrow). before i try to angle grind the the one currently in my gearbox.

Then i'll let you guys know how big the difference is. Would anyone appreciate it if i made a before and after video?


My take on the topic: I use Castrol VMX oil only and have done so for 20 years. If I get difficult shifts or synchro problems I know there is something wrong with the clutch or gearbox. Searching for the "right" oil to cover up for a warped clutch plate or sticking/worn synchros is a waste of time - but that's just my opinion.

I actually think that an oil that has better shifting performance is the right oil to be using. Isn't a gear shift thats smooth and silent better than one which is notchy and occasionaly grinds? If a different oil improves the feel of the gearbox, then its the right oil to be using. Thats my opinion.

i used the same oil that goes in the evo 9 and 10

diaqueen 75w90, its really good stuff, Ive seen a 410wkw vr4 galant running the same oil

you can buy it from any mitsub ralliart dealer and it about $80??

Yesterday I finally got a new gearbox drain plug from Mitsubishi and put the Castrol Syntrans oil in. And the difference is incredible. :thumbsup: Notchyness...Gone.

The VMX-M oil that came out of the gearbox still looked like it had just been poured in, perfectly clear in colour. So clearly it just isn't the best oil to be using.

For a Manual 3rd Gen gearbox, I HIGHLY recommend:
Castrol Syntrans Manual 75w-85.

The high pricetag of $30 a litre is definatly worth it if you're experiencing a notchy gearbox.

Yesterday I finally got a new gearbox drain plug from Mitsubishi and put the Castrol Syntrans oil in. And the difference is incredible. :thumbsup: Notchyness...Gone.

The VMX-M oil that came out of the gearbox still looked like it had just been poured in, perfectly clear in colour. So clearly it just isn't the best oil to be using.

For a Manual 3rd Gen gearbox, I HIGHLY recommend:
Castrol Syntrans Manual 75w-85.

The high pricetag of $30 a litre is definatly worth it if you're experiencing a notchy gearbox.
Good to hear your problem's been fixed Eric. When the manual conversion was done to my car i'm pretty sure the mechanic put in the same oil. Remember him saying Mitsu gearboxes can get notchy, especially getting into 2nd when cold.

Glade it worked well for you :)

Thanks guys, I'm very happy with the results. Just like to add, allthough I didn't use the Redline gear oil products I'm sure they're just as good, and from what i understand Redline is possibly a little bit cheaper. I'll leave that for somebody else to find out and confirm.

Off the topic: Mohit i saw your ex verada in Doncaster this morning. Sigh.

Off the topic: Mohit i saw your ex verada in Doncaster this morning. Sigh.
Hope he took the for sale stickers off lol

Remember him saying Mitsu gearboxes can get notchy, especially getting into 2nd when cold.

I can certainly attest to that, mines a bitch on a cold morning (aka every morning atm lol)

Gotta get this done to my car.

I recently changed my rearbox oil again after 30,000kms on Castrol Syntrans.
2nd gear was starting to get crunchy again when cold, so time to change it.

I was disgusted with the oil that came out of the box. Looked like stirring metalic paint with the amount of metal in suspention in it.:disgusted
There was a substantial build up on the mag plug too.
It was the same when I first changed the oil, but didn't worry too much at the time as I had no idea what oil was in it or how long it had been there.

After 30K this amount of metal can't be normal can it? What does your old oil look like?
Hope my gearbox isn't about to detonate.:eek2:

Anyway I desided to try a slightly thinner oil this time around, to futher help with the cold shift issue.
Not ATF thin, just a bit thinner. Like VMX80 thin.
Settled on Amsoil MTF (http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/mtf.aspx). Worked out about $75 delivered from Performancelub (http://www.performancelub.com/Amsoil%20pricelist.htm).
Gear box feels good. Better when cold, still good when warm.

Just wish it wasn't making metal........ :confused:

Just wish it wasn't making metal........ :confused:

Just think about it the same way I do when I leave a bolt out, weight reduction.

Never seen manual trans oil come out with metal flakes in it. Bronze (gold colour) is synchro rings IIRC and shiny is case hardened metal off gears. (I must repeat "if I remember correctly")
Someone clarify? Not good whatever the source.

Ok wats the redline oil called for magnas that really good.? Aswell were do u get this stuff from.?

Ok wats the redline oil called for magnas that really good.? Aswell were do u get this stuff from.?

Im running redline MT90 in my manual magna gearbox. I have been using redline in the gearbox for the last couple of years and found it to be a great oil. When i pulled my gearbox down to give it a freshen up last year it all look clean as inside and the LSD was still in good shape.
3rd gen magna manuals have to use a GL4 oil as GL5 oil has been known to attack the synchro's (as witnessed by a mates TJ box that i had to rebuild for him in 2003 as he had used Castrol Syntrax 75w-90 GL5 in it since the week he bought it new in early 2002 now he just uses VMX-M which is a specific 75w/85 that mitsi used as factory fill)

I recently changed my rearbox oil again after 30,000kms on Castrol Syntrans.
2nd gear was starting to get crunchy again when cold, so time to change it.

I was disgusted with the oil that came out of the box. Looked like stirring metalic paint with the amount of metal in suspention in it.:disgusted
There was a substantial build up on the mag plug too.
It was the same when I first changed the oil, but didn't worry too much at the time as I had no idea what oil was in it or how long it had been there.

After 30K this amount of metal can't be normal can it? What does your old oil look like?
Hope my gearbox isn't about to detonate.:eek2:

Anyway I desided to try a slightly thinner oil this time around, to futher help with the cold shift issue.
Not ATF thin, just a bit thinner. Like VMX80 thin.
Settled on Amsoil MTF (http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/mtf.aspx). Worked out about $75 delivered from Performancelub (http://www.performancelub.com/Amsoil%20pricelist.htm).
Gear box feels good. Better when cold, still good when warm.

Just wish it wasn't making metal........ :confused:

Amsoil do produce some pretty good stuffs, i found their 5w30 engine oil to be very fuel efficient. I'm very happy with it's FC gain, the expenses will more than make up with the fuel saving, current petrol prices are pretty crap now at $1.29, hope it will drop soon.
Anyway, i going to asking Harold if he will be bringing in the Amsoil syn atf. I had read very good results from BITOG forums and would like to try it on my 380.

As always some people will say for or against, so come to your own conclusion but I hear good things from 2 friends of mine about adding some MBL-8 in their manual gear boxes, actually making less than stellar syncro's work better etc.