So ive had the light on my 380 reset 3 times now, first time i was told it is a 380 bug and the reset should solve the problem, the second time error code was Cam Sensor, sensor updated with latest firmware, also did not fix, third time error code 1 of the 4 oxygen sensors reset but i know it will happen again.

I suspected the LPG might have a part to play as the EML only comes on after a long journey 200klicks + on LPG then bang the light comes on, when i discussed this with the tech guy he was gob smacked my 380 had LPG or more honestly he just thought the same thing i did.

Ok, so here i am, the LPG on my 380 is factory fitted but not covered by warranty, the dealer needs to get a third party gas man to check if my LPG is running correctly (understandable) however, he has warned me a) the charge can be from $80 to $250, the gas guy has seen this before and not been able to fix it and there is no certainty it will solve the problem, and i have to pay for it...

Does anyone know any respectable companies i can see to check my LPG settings ? I am starting to think it would be better if i buy a reset tool myself and just reset it but obviously i want my car to run clean and efficient.

any ideas ? or anyone experienced similar problems with factory fitted LPG ?

Contact Impco in your state, and speak to the rep, he would then be able to tell you who has the most experience with the system.

Amd please update your profile, so we can see what state you're in, your car and mods. On the first blue bar,Go to User CP > Edit your details.

third time error code 1 of the 4 oxygen sensors reset but i know it will happen again.
any ideas ?
The O2 sensor code I used to get after doing my extractors like you said, used to come on after about a 200km highway trip & then a warm restart. I assume you have a stock exhaust so might be a bad pre-cat if it's one of the rear sensors. If that's the only code you're getting now might be worth a look.

Cheers Guys, i will look into both of these, yes i have all standard, Foozrcool what am i looking for if investigating a bad pre cat ? is it not more likely to be an incorrect mixture from the LPG (if that's even possible) also, ive not personally seen the codes i can only go by what Mitsubishi are telling me. One other thing, this code will not reset by itself, once it come on it stays on but does not restrict anything...

Cheers Guys, i will look into both of these, yes i have all standard, Foozrcool what am i looking for if investigating a bad pre cat ? is it not more likely to be an incorrect mixture from the LPG (if that's even possible) also, ive not personally seen the codes i can only go by what Mitsubishi are telling me. One other thing, this code will not reset by itself, once it come on it stays on but does not restrict anything...

Yep pre-cat is the catalytic convertor in the engine pipe. I believe incorrect mixture/AFR will come up with a different code stating that. I had a lean on idle & rich off idle code when I first fired the supercharger with the larger injectors, didn't mention the O2 sensors.

I believe the front two sensors monitor the AFR while the rear two emissions. If your precat has failed you will get a rear O2 sensor code & yep once they come up they stay up from my experience until reset.

Ok, well I can only give advice on what has happened to us recently and sorry for the long post.

The same thing started to happen about 3-4 months ago. We tried to starting up the car but it was taking longer than normal. Last month we were heading out down the highway (to the Byron Bay Cruise), as we got off she just died, no electrics nothing. We took it to Mitsubishi and they had it for about a week and a half, they diagnosed the problem to do with the Crank Angle sensor. We had the car for the night and the same thing happened again the next morning, she just wouldnt start. Took it back to Mitsubishi, they hooked up their MUT 3 unit, again the Crank Angle sensor error came up, but this time they got in contact with Mitsubishi Australia. They told them to replace the Cam Angle sensor, which they did, got it started finally after about a week, but again it wouldnt work. They did what was called a "wiggle test" (just wiggling wires to see if one was loose), gave the ETAC Unit (big grey box clipped to the side of the fuse box) a bash and she started up no worries. We have had no prblems since.

Hope that helps mate.