Anyone done their ATF change? Look at mine after 86k km, look like coffee. Anyway, i had change mine to RP maxatf 4 quart total, transmission definably response and feel much better now.

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u18/trex_101/2-1.jpg

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u18/trex_101/1-1.jpg

IF 380 5speed autos are the same / similar to Magna transmissions.. it might not like any fluid other than genuine mitsy stuff.
in most cases the mitsy genuine stuff is the cheapest anyway.

im sure someone will confirm about 380 transmissions and thier brand of fluid required

thats pretty black.... can see a LITTLE red in the corner tho...
any metal bits in it?

That does look pretty nasty. It should look a lil dark, not quite the new cherry look, just a little dirty. Next change do a power flush.

Mmmmmmmmmmmmm I LIKE CHOCOLATE MILK!

Thought there was a bit more than 4L for the auto transmission?!

Thought there was a bit more than 4L for the auto transmission?!

Was gonna say, I hope that wasn't the level of the oil when you pulled the dipstick out... Don't they have like 7L or something?

I replaced mine at 45, and will do at every 45....

Beats paying for a repair.

Was gonna say, I hope that wasn't the level of the oil when you pulled the dipstick out... Don't they have like 7L or something?

If you simply try to drain trans fluid, lots is retained within the torque converter.

To fully change trans fluid, it is necessary to drain what you can from the transmission, then top-up. You then disconnect the ATF line going to transmission cooler (in bottom of radiator) and run vehicle to flush some fluid out, then top-up, flush, top-up, flush until the fluid flushing out looks new with no discolouration. Reconnect the ATF line going to the cooler. Top-up, check for leaks. Done.

This process uses a fair bit more fluid than the actual capacity of the transmission (you lose some new oil during the "flush" phase - but its the only way to ensure all the ATF in the transmission, torque converter, and lines is changed.

Workshop Manuals detail this procedure and the capacities involved.

If you simply try to drain trans fluid, lots is retained within the torque converter.

To fully change trans fluid, it is necessary to drain what you can from the transmission, then top-up. You then disconnect the ATF line going to transmission cooler (in bottom of radiator) and run vehicle to flush some fluid out, then top-up, flush, top-up, flush until the fluid flushing out looks new with no discolouration. Reconnect the ATF line going to the cooler. Top-up, check for leaks. Done.

This process uses a fair bit more fluid than the actual capacity of the transmission (you lose some new oil during the "flush" phase - but its the only way to ensure all the ATF in the transmission, torque converter, and lines is changed.

Workshop Manuals detail this procedure and the capacities involved.

Haven't got the manual, but i reckon i used around 12-15 litres.

IF 380 5speed autos are the same / similar to Magna transmissions.. it might not like any fluid other than genuine mitsy stuff.
in most cases the mitsy genuine stuff is the cheapest anyway.

im sure someone will confirm about 380 transmissions and thier brand of fluid required

thats pretty black.... can see a LITTLE red in the corner tho...
any metal bits in it?

I know i can use the original Mitsubishi Diamond SP III but i would prefer something better and fully synthetic, we don't change ATF often and that's why i choose the best fully syn ATF around. I was contemplating between either Redline D4 or RP MaxATF but choose the latter since it's cheaper.

Oh, both Redline D4 and MaxATF do meets Mitsubishi Diamond SP III spec.

Anyway, anyone knew if 380 have an ATF filter? Is it the inbuild sump strainer type or oil filter canister type? I can't seem to find mine.

I know i can use the original Mitsubishi Diamond SP III but i would prefer something better and fully synthetic, we don't change ATF often and that's why i choose the best fully syn ATF around. I was contemplating between either Redline D4 or RP MaxATF but choose the latter since it's cheaper.

Oh, both Redline D4 and MaxATF do meets Mitsubishi Diamond SP III spec.

Anyway, anyone knew if 380 have an ATF filter? Is it the inbuild sump strainer type or oil filter canister type? I can't seem to find mine.

The filter will be inbuilt.

As far as the fluid goes, I would be draining out whatever you've used and put Mitsubishi fluid in. So many horror stories on these forums of people using non Mitsubishi ATF and their gearbox failing not long after. If it starts to slip or get a bit notchy changing between gears you have a problem.

Thought there was a bit more than 4L for the auto transmission?!

Nope, less than 4L when drain and top-up, probably around 3.8L worth of ATF. Oh, i also did the power steering fluid change which would take around 200ml worth of my RP MaxATF.

Nope, less than 4L when drain and top-up, probably around 3.8L worth of ATF. Oh, i also did the power steering fluid change which would take around 200ml worth of my RP MaxATF.

I sure hope you didn't just drain the fluid out then top it up! Especially considering how your fluid looked. There will still be crappy fluid in the torque convertor and inside the gear sets that needs to be flushed out, not to mention in the lines through the cooler etc. Check your fluid, I'll say there's probably going to be small specks of brown stuff still in it.

The filter will be inbuilt.

As far as the fluid goes, I would be draining out whatever you've used and put Mitsubishi fluid in. So many horror stories on these forums of people using non Mitsubishi ATF and their gearbox failing not long after. If it starts to slip or get a bit notchy changing between gears you have a problem.

No worries mate, back home where i came from, we all use aftermarket ATF and stuffs. As long as the fluid meet the official Mitsubishi SP III spec, i wouldn't worries about it.

I intend to do another drain and top-up during the next 10k oil change, i bought 8 quart of ATF, left 3.9quart after the power steering oil change, so should be just enough for another.

Feedback: After the ATF change, the shift seem firmer and response/power seem stronger. Will monitor the fuel consumption, see if there's any improvement.

Nope, less than 4L when drain and top-up, probably around 3.8L worth of ATF. Oh, i also did the power steering fluid change which would take around 200ml worth of my RP MaxATF.

The 380 needs at least 9 ltrs for a proper trans fluid change. Generally you will use more like 12 ltrs if you do an extra flush, as you should have done when the fluid in your trans looked so bad. You need to keep running fresh fluid into the system until it flows nice and clear.

Do you know the correct fluid change method? Do you have a service manual?

Cheers,
Alan

The 380 needs at least 9 ltrs for a proper trans fluid change. Generally you will use more like 12 ltrs if you do an extra flush, as you should have done when the fluid in your trans looked so bad. You need to keep running fresh fluid into the system until it flows nice and clear.

Do you know the correct fluid change method? Do you have a service manual?

Cheers,
Alan

I don't have a service manual but I assume i could have disconnect the ATF cooler line for a more completed change but i choose the lazy method of drain and top-up. But i will do it another 2 more time, every 10k for more complete ATF change.

I don't have a service manual but I assume i could have disconnect the ATF cooler line for a more completed change but i choose the lazy method of drain and top-up. But i will do it another 2 more time, every 10k for more complete ATF change.

You can download the manual from the Forum site so I won't go through the process of doing a proper fluid change. http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56815

Your fluid "change" method will not do much to help your transmission. The fluid in these gets very hot and that destroys its ability to lubricate etc. You need to do it correctly otherwise the trans will have a very short life and cost you big money for repair/replacement.

I'm sure you wouldn't drain half the oil from your engine, then top it up with half new oil, but thats what your doing with your trans.

Cheers,
Alan