Hi all,

I have almost received all my parts required for my car pc. I just have a few little questions that I am unsure about.

First a bit of info about my setup:

I currently have 4gauge wire running from my battery to the boot of my car (TH Sedan). I have a 4x100rms jaycar amp connected to it. My car PC will basically consist of intel atom 330, M2-ATX power supply, 320gb 2.5" hard drive and 2gb ram which will be hooked up in a small case, and then put in the boot of my car. I will have a 7" lilliput EBY701 in the double din housing.

Ok the questions:

Q1. Would 4 gauge wire be plenty for my amp and PC? If so, should I just run a fused distribution block in the boot, keep 4 gauge running to my amp and run 10 gauge? to my PC. Or is a separate power cable running from battery to pc needed?

Q2. Another query I have is running the remote wire to the amp and PC. Since I all ready have a remote wire set up for my amp, could I just connect this to the accessory wire (up the front of the car), then connect it to the power supply in the PC at the boot end of the car, split this wire and then also connect it to the remote input of the amp? Would this work?

Q3. The other problem I face is connecting power to my lilliput, can I just simply use the constant 12v power up the front of the car (I won't have a head deck running so all these wires will be available). I think the Lilliput has a auto startup/shutdown when no input is detected so constant power shouldn't be an issue I don't think.

Q4. I was going to install my PC next to my amp in the spare tyre well (I have taken out my spare tyre as it is not needed in Townsville, if I travel anywhere long distance I can easily put the tyre back), however I have heard that it might not be best to put a pc near the amp, which is a shame as it would fit perfectly. Is this true? If so is there anyway I can insulate or isolate the amp and pc while having them sitting next to each other (probably 10cm gab between them) that would not cause any effects?

Q5. Could running long distance VGA cable from the boot to the front of the car cause any visual problems (e.g interference)?

That's all the questions for now, I should have all my parts in the next few weeks so should have it up and running within a month.

Thank you all very much.

I swear I have a case of dejavu...

Q1. I'd just run a fused distro block in the boot - much easier than running new cable. Find out how many amps the PC pulls, but 10AWG should be plenty.

Q2. Not quite sure what you mean, if you mean can you use the acc wire as the remote wire - I guess you can, or the +12V to the PC....

Q3 - not sure

Q4 - cant help

Q5 - you will get interference in the cable if you run it near power wires and the like - depends how well shielded the cable is I guess. I use the simple rule that if im not certain it wont be effected - I take a extra 10minutes to make sure it avoids running anywhere near other cables.

Yeah... we argued about wire strand counts and I caved in and admitted that really it makes SFA difference.

:repost:

Q5. Could running long distance VGA cable from the boot to the front of the car cause any visual problems (e.g interference)?

That's all the questions for now, I should have all my parts in the next few weeks so should have it up and running within a month.

Thank you all very much.

It may, some days I got some, others I didn't.

Ok the questions:

Q1. Would 4 gauge wire be plenty for my amp and PC? If so, should I just run a fused distribution block in the boot, keep 4 gauge running to my amp and run 10 gauge? to my PC. Or is a separate power cable running from battery to pc needed?

I'm running both my PC and amp off the same cable, never had an issue. Can't remember what guage it is, but the PC doesn't need really thick power wiring. I have my power running from the battery to the amp, and the PC gets it's power from the positive terminal on the amp, worked flawlessly for over a year now.


Q2. Another query I have is running the remote wire to the amp and PC. Since I all ready have a remote wire set up for my amp, could I just connect this to the accessory wire (up the front of the car), then connect it to the power supply in the PC at the boot end of the car, split this wire and then also connect it to the remote input of the amp? Would this work?

Dunno what PSU you've got, but I'm using a M2-ATX, and instead of the amp receiving the 12v from the ignition as a turn-on signal, it gets a signal from the PSU. Would work fine either way really.


Q3. The other problem I face is connecting power to my lilliput, can I just simply use the constant 12v power up the front of the car (I won't have a head deck running so all these wires will be available). I think the Lilliput has a auto startup/shutdown when no input is detected so constant power shouldn't be an issue I don't think.

I made up a cable for my Lilliput that has the round lilliput plug on one end, and a molex on the other, and the screen receives power from the PSU. That way, it automatically turns off when the PC goes off, and it's set to automatically come on when it receives power. Also ensures a clean 12v stream of power.


Q4. I was going to install my PC next to my amp in the spare tyre well (I have taken out my spare tyre as it is not needed in Townsville, if I travel anywhere long distance I can easily put the tyre back), however I have heard that it might not be best to put a pc near the amp, which is a shame as it would fit perfectly. Is this true? If so is there anyway I can insulate or isolate the amp and pc while having them sitting next to each other (probably 10cm gab between them) that would not cause any effects?

My PC is right next to my amp, has been for over a year now and haven't had any troubles.


Q5. Could running long distance VGA cable from the boot to the front of the car cause any visual problems (e.g interference)?

I haven't had any problems with the VGA cable I ran from the boot to my screen up front.

I have my power running from the battery to the amp, and the PC gets it's power from the positive terminal on the amp, worked flawlessly for over a year now.


Is that fused wire fused by any chance?

Is that fused wire fused by any chance?

Of course.

Thanks for the advice everyone.

I am getting the M2-atx power supply, I didn't think to just use that as the remote signal for the amp. Is there a connector on the PSU that is specifically designed to act as a remote, or did you just tap into a 12v connection on the PSU (if that makes sense), I guess most of this will be answered when my PSU arrives.

So MitchellO, you have a wire running from the ignition (is this the same as the accessory wire?) to your PSU, this tells the PSU to turn on and power the PC, and then from the PSU you have a wire going from a 12v connection, to the amp to tell the amp to turn on?

Since my PSU will be in the boot I don't really want to run another power cable all the way up to the front to power the Screen, the constant 12v from the head unit cables should be enough shouldn't it? And if I use this constant is it likely that the screen will somehow draw a small amount of power, even if off, and over time could flatten my battery?

I guess most of this I will find out when I go to set it up, just trying to fine tune it now in order to save time and money.

Cheers for the help everyone.

Thanks for the advice everyone.

I am getting the M2-atx power supply, I didn't think to just use that as the remote signal for the amp. Is there a connector on the PSU that is specifically designed to act as a remote, or did you just tap into a 12v connection on the PSU (if that makes sense), I guess most of this will be answered when my PSU arrives.

So MitchellO, you have a wire running from the ignition (is this the same as the accessory wire?) to your PSU, this tells the PSU to turn on and power the PC, and then from the PSU you have a wire going from a 12v connection, to the amp to tell the amp to turn on?

Since my PSU will be in the boot I don't really want to run another power cable all the way up to the front to power the Screen, the constant 12v from the head unit cables should be enough shouldn't it? And if I use this constant is it likely that the screen will somehow draw a small amount of power, even if off, and over time could flatten my battery?

I guess most of this I will find out when I go to set it up, just trying to fine tune it now in order to save time and money.

Cheers for the help everyone.

If i was you mate.. you are running plenty of wires you may aswell run another one to make sure that No power is drawn when the car is off... because being a cheepish Chinese made screen the electric's will probably leak inside and it will lose power..

Thanks for the advice everyone.

I am getting the M2-atx power supply, I didn't think to just use that as the remote signal for the amp. Is there a connector on the PSU that is specifically designed to act as a remote, or did you just tap into a 12v connection on the PSU (if that makes sense), I guess most of this will be answered when my PSU arrives.

So MitchellO, you have a wire running from the ignition (is this the same as the accessory wire?) to your PSU, this tells the PSU to turn on and power the PC, and then from the PSU you have a wire going from a 12v connection, to the amp to tell the amp to turn on?

Since my PSU will be in the boot I don't really want to run another power cable all the way up to the front to power the Screen, the constant 12v from the head unit cables should be enough shouldn't it? And if I use this constant is it likely that the screen will somehow draw a small amount of power, even if off, and over time could flatten my battery?

I guess most of this I will find out when I go to set it up, just trying to fine tune it now in order to save time and money.

Cheers for the help everyone.

Yep, there is a connector on the PSU for triggering the amp, that's how I have mine setup.

I have the remote wire for the PSU coming out of the original HU wiring harness to the PSU, then the AMP switchon wire from the PSU to the Amp.

Dunno about the screen, never ran it direct from the car but I'm sure it would be fine. Biggest plus about running it off the PSU is that it powers off automatically when you turn the car/PC off, and it drains nothing. Doesn't have to be thick wire or anything, for no other reason that convenience I'd run it off the PSU.

Yep, there is a connector on the PSU for triggering the amp, that's how I have mine setup.

I have the remote wire for the PSU coming out of the original HU wiring harness to the PSU, then the AMP switchon wire from the PSU to the Amp.

Dunno about the screen, never ran it direct from the car but I'm sure it would be fine. Biggest plus about running it off the PSU is that it powers off automatically when you turn the car/PC off, and it drains nothing. Doesn't have to be thick wire or anything, for no other reason that convenience I'd run it off the PSU.

Can also just run it of the ACC line, saves the load on the PSU.

Can also just run it of the ACC line, saves the load on the PSU.
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way to go i think.

Remember you will wont the pc to have a constant supply of power so it only shuts down via the screen and not when you pop in the shop for milk.

If the screen is acc powered it will turn off as not to attract attention but the pc will be where you left it eg booted up.

Another ideal incase you leave the car and forget to shut the system down use a product like redarc http://www.redarc.com.au/smart_battery_isolators.htm

this will stop the car batt from going under 12.1 volt. it will then cut the power to the rear of the car. 12.1 volt may be a bit high as if you wish to leave it on for passengers or the like with the car not running it wont take long to get to 12.1 volt requiring the system to be rebooted. i believe you can order them with custom voltage cut offs. eg like 11.6 or there about. this should be a good compromise between pc , amp use and still being able to crank the engine over.

i would install system then get a jumper pack first to test run time and what voltage will still start the car then order to spec.

Also what front end software are you using?

way to go i think.

Remember you will wont the pc to have a constant supply of power so it only shuts down via the screen and not when you pop in the shop for milk.

If the screen is acc powered it will turn off as not to attract attention but the pc will be where you left it eg booted up.

Another ideal incase you leave the car and forget to shut the system down use a product like redarc http://www.redarc.com.au/smart_battery_isolators.htm

Also what front end software are you using?

Mine turns off and on with the car, it would be very handy if I could get a capacitor to that it didn't stop when I crank the engine.

Centrafuse is very good but VERY expensive... if you don't know where to look/who to ask :)

this will stop the car batt from going under 12.1 volt. it will then cut the power to the rear of the car. 12.1 volt may be a bit high as if you wish to leave it on for passengers or the like with the car not running it wont take long to get to 12.1 volt requiring the system to be rebooted. i believe you can order them with custom voltage cut offs. eg like 11.6 or there about. this should be a good compromise between pc , amp use and still being able to crank the engine over.

Drop to 12.1V and you'll be lucky to start your car, drop down to 12.1V enough times, and your lead acid battery is toast.

Just a thought.

Can also just run it of the ACC line, saves the load on the PSU.

Pffft, the PC uses so little power anyway, and the screen isn't exactly a watt-guzzler, so it's perfectly fine running off the PSU. I've had mine that way for over a year and nary a problem.



Remember you will wont the pc to have a constant supply of power so it only shuts down via the screen and not when you pop in the shop for milk.

If the screen is acc powered it will turn off as not to attract attention but the pc will be where you left it eg booted up.

Another ideal incase you leave the car and forget to shut the system down use a product like redarc http://www.redarc.com.au/smart_battery_isolators.htm

Better solution is to use the shutdown controller on the M2-ATX. You can set it to keep the PC on for a certain amount of time after the car is turned off, if you don't want it to turn off as soon as the key is removed. In my system I just have it at 5 seconds, the system goes into hibernation.

The M2-ATX also monitors the battery voltage, so if you are sitting in your car with the engine off and the car pc on long enough to start to drain the battery to a dangerous level, then the system will automatically shut down to ensure you can still start the engine.

I love my M2-ATX, can sit in the car watching videos for ages, and still start the car without the PC even blinking. Never had my PC switch off when starting the car with the PC on.

Drop to 12.1V and you'll be lucky to start your car, drop down to 12.1V enough times, and your lead acid battery is toast.

Just a thought.

Off a std heavy duty lead acid battery my car has started fine from as low as 11.6 volt. It often sees as low as 11.8 and never had a problem with it. the battery is about 14 months old.

If you let a battery go very low on a regular basis yes it will stuff it. I believe its a lot lower than 12.1 volt but cant confirm exactly at what voltage.

There are many products on the market that let a battery run down to 12 volt and hav'nt ever heard of them causing battery problems.


Mine turns off and on with the car, it would be very handy if I could get a capacitor to that it didn't stop when I crank the engine.

Centrafuse is very good but VERY expensive... if you don't know where to look/who to ask

When you say it turns of with the car and when you crank i asume you mean its hooked up to an acc wire.

The acc wire turns off when cranking so a capacitor wont help. You could hook it up to a constant 12v, there will be one that holds power when cranking at the back of the ignition and should only be powered with ign in on and start postion. There are other ways but i'd have to check my wire diagram.

Also a good front end for free is road runner now called ride runner. I used it years ago, work well but was a bit tricky to set up. i think thats been sorted now.

The acc wire turns off when cranking so a capacitor wont help. You could hook it up to a constant 12v, there will be one that holds power when cranking at the back of the ignition and should only be powered with ign in on and start postion. There are other ways but i'd have to check my wire diagram.

Also a good front end for free is road runner now called ride runner. I used it years ago, work well but was a bit tricky to set up. i think thats been sorted now.

Since he's using an M2-ATX it doesn't matter. You hookup the 12v to a constant source (aka. direct to the battery), and then the ACC wire goes to another connection on the PSU, which will then send the required signals to the PC to turn on.

Roadrunner is good, especially since it's free, but it doesn't compare to the polish of Centrafuse.

Thanks everyone for the input.

I got my M2-atx PSU today. It didn't come with a manual or anything, so I downloaded one from the internet. However mine is slightly different to the one in the manual. I have attached two images, one of mine, and one of a more common one I think. The only difference is that I only have two connector things near the 20pin connector at the end of the PCB on mine, where as there are three on the other. On mine they are labeled J4 and J9, and by looking at the manual I downloaded it means they are battery negative and external ON/OFF switch, which I don't think is correct. Any Ideas on which one I can use to act as the remote wire to my amp?

I am using Centrafuse as well. I installed it today on the PC, pretty happy with it so far, how do I get it to show the track title of MP3's first though, instead of showing the band name and then the track title. It is very annoying for bands with long names.

Ok, so this is what I have in mind so far:

Connect power wire of PSU to amp power input in the boot.
Connect accessory wire of PSU to accessory wire of wire harness (tells PC to turn on)
Connect earth PSU wire to chassis in boot.
Connect a wire from some point (yet to be determined) on PSU to remote input of Amp (tells the amp to turn on)

Now the screen I am still unsure of:

1. I can connect it to constant 12v of the wire harness (hopefully the screen turns off when it detects no signal and that it doesn't draw power while off)

2. I can connect it with a wire running from the PSU but will most likely require me to make my own molex to screen wire or just cut up the spare molex I will have.

3. I can also possibly use the accessory wire from the wire harness, which is probably the best, but will this interfere if I am also running a wire to the psu to signal it to turn on?

Ok that is it I think.


This is mine:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/Foxstar/M2-atx.jpg

This is the other one:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/Foxstar/M2-atx-2.jpg