Hey guys,

This is my first post on the forum (yay a newbie), and wasnt sure if i should of put it here or in the TL specific forum...

I used to drive an auto 1990 toyota camry with a pretty decent sound system in it (sub, amp, 6x9's and head unit) that myself and a friend installed, and Ive just bought a Manual 2003 TL VRX Limited Edition (boy, am i happy now) and wanted to move all or most of it across.

Just a few questions i had in regards to the process:

1. Because i have the limited edition VRX, it supposedly has 10 speakers, i was just wondering if my head unit would support them all properly? and if there is anything special i need to know when wiring? (This is the head unit i will probably get if i buy a new one, http://www.jvc-australia.com/JVC/client/c_products_details.jsp?catID=27&prodID=477 as it appears to be the newer version of what i had in the camry, and yes, i want JVC)

2. I currently have the stock 6stacker double din cd player. I was wondering if this was worth anything second hand and how much roughly? if so, would i be able to sell it on the sales part of this site?

3. because im puttin in a single din unit into a double din slot, what do i use to fill the hole it will create? i saw in autobahn a little slot you can put in that just turns it into a hole to put spare cd's or wahtever in, what other options do i have (besides getting a double din head unit).

4. would you guys advise i do the installation myself, i dont want to break stuff, but i also dont really want to fork out another $200 for autobahn or whoever to do it for me. i also have a copy of a doc that describes how to remove the center peice and the wiring combos and feel i should be able to do it.

5. would it be worth swapping the JVC 6x9's from the camry to the magna, or will the stock ones with new head unit be fine

Thats all i have now, but im sure ill have more questions later. Cheers!

Id also like to give a special thanks to BILLV who helped answer a few questions and provided me with wiring codes and centerpeice removal instructions via PM! Thank you!!!

voted: Pay someone else to do it
cause jb does it for next to nothing
1. cant help
2. u could make an EoI thread and see if anyone wants it
3. u can get all sorts of junk 2 fill the space have a look on ebay and such for ideas
4. it depends if you know what ur doing(just cause you have a wiring diagram doesnt mean u know how to do it)
5. my 2000TJ still has the stock 6X9s and they go fairly hard but its worth puting something decent in if u really want clear sound(i cant tell cause my spits will make ur ears bleed if ur in the front so the back doesnt bother me)

1) No. I dunno what the "10 speaker" system is but I'm guessing it's a 6 channel at best, 2 way splits at the front, in rear doors, and 6x9s at the back? Unless it's 3 ways at the front and 2 ways in the rear with a passive crossover, no, an aftermarket headunit won't do it.

2) Don't know how much, yes you could sell it on here

3) Get a single DIN pocket from a Mitsubishi dealer

4) Get someone else to do it. I did my own for my Magna but I'd already done one before in a 94 Civic and it was a lot simpler in that, so it was a progression for me, but taking the dash apart isn't fun

5) If you've got them, swap them, although if you're going to keep the sub you're better off removing the 6x9s altogether.

1. you dont have ten speakers, you'll only have 6, mitsubish class 2 way speakers as 2 speakers, but they'll be fine with a new h/u
you could either hard wire it in or buy the areopro adaptors
2. no idea, maybe $100?, you can sell on here but need 50 posts before your alloud to sell anything
3. you will need to buy a din slot, dunno if the generic ones fit well but would be an idea to get one from a TL, wreckers would be a shot
4. you could do it yourself as its not that hard, but if unsure take it to a pro
5. you could, but i dont think the new h/u would power them properly, maybe save abit of money and buy a nice 4ch amp with a set of splits

oh an welcome :D

10 speakers are their.

Consist of a front stage with:
2x 6.5inch woofers ( doors )
2x 4inch mids ( dash )
2x 1inch tweeters ( A pillars )

All of the above run off the 2 front channels and have smallish inline caps to filter out unwanted Hz.

Rear consists of a simple 2 way 6x9.
2x woofers
2x tweeters

Those run off the rear 2 channels.

If you are confident in doing it yourself give it go. Worse case is that you will pay $50 to have someone finish it for you. Solder and heatshrink please. :D

I found my front stage to be not too bad to justify replacing the speakers. Rear stage is pretty ordinary even after the new deck. But a good quality deck alone will improve the quality ten-fold. Just get a mitsi-generic wiring loom from JB's etc, and install the deck with a spacer from the wreckers, jsut to be sure that it fits. Its a bit tight at some stages during installation, and can take a while, but its worth it as you save a bit of coin, and gives you some form of accomplishment at the end. Dont forget to run RCA leads if you plan on taking the Amp path later down the track (just tuck them away if your not going to use them, so you dont have to pull the dash apart to install them later) You may also have to run another cable to the engine bay for extra power to the deck

You'll be quite surprised at the improvement once you have completed the deck alone. Just be prepared and you'll be fine (wire, wire crimps, plugs etc)

let us know how you go :D

Solder and 3M electrical tape. :D

Fixed that for ya Charisma :P

Head unit install is easy as. There's a thread on the forum that shows how to remove the old head unit. All you need to do is buy the Aerpro wiring harnesses from Autobarn or the like for a plug and play installation. Only thing you need to do is attach the earth cable coming out of the Aerpro wiring harness to an unpainted metal surface such as one of the screws behind the dash. Easy peasy japanesy.

EDIT: Get a single DIN pocket from a wrecker like Imlachs. Cheaper that buying from Mitsu. The generic ones from Autobarn don't fit very well.

10 speakers are their.
snip3 way fronts and 4 channel then.

+1 DIY, the harness makes it easy, I think you need to connect the aerial signal wire to the H/U amp control wire, and the earth as above. May take you an hour or so.

And I've put a console tear down for a TW here (http://www.aussiemagna.com//forums/showthread.php?t=52841)

wow you guys sure are helpful and timely here :D thank you all so much for your help

im not tackling this project until after uni exams (about 4 weeks away), but i can buy everything i need before hand and be prepared

ive decided to try and do it myself, and if i really get stuck, ill just take it to get done professionally. Ive also decided to get a wirening harness, as that seems to be the way to go, and should let me swap over head units easily later down the track if i want.

So from your advice, i have some more questions

6. just confirming, i take it i should look for the din pocket at the wreckers, i assume i have to find one from a TL or TW model? or will any mitsubishi do? if i cant find one there, i should go to mitsubishi dealer (will cost me more), and if that fails, as a last option go autobahn or ebay but they wont fit as well...

7. when buying the wiring harness (is this same as wiring loom) you guys are saying i should get Aerpro? is that the brand or the name of the actual harness? or mitsu generic is good enough? (for the camry, i just went to autobahn and looked on the packets, and got one that said camry 1990-1994 or there abouts)

thanks once again thank you for all your help and sorry for the stupid questions, its just i care about this car alot more then the camry so i wanna get it all right :D (but im also kinda broke after buying this car and wanna keep the cost down) cheers!

Aerpro's the brand.

thats the brand alright, there is two Harness adaptors, Aerpro APP0111 (http://www.aerpro.com.au/list.php?cat_no=10&cat_name=harnesses&cat_sno=160) one to suit the car to a ISO i.e. generic plug, and one APP8JVC (http://www.aerpro.com.au/list.php?cat_no=10&cat_name=harnesses&cat_sno=161) from the H/U to ISO/generic plug.
You can opt for just the car adaptor, if you have the skills to solder the JVC harness (the one that comes with the H/U) to the car adaptor, and just snip of the ISO plugs, it could save you 15-25 dollars if you have a soldering iron.

And the TL/TW din pocket from the wreckers would be the best bet.

ok until HD radio comes out at a reasonable price, im pretty sure im just gonna use my system from the camry.

So my next question is, i still have the stock radio from the camry, but instead of puttin that back in, am i able to put my magnas double din head unit (its the stock radio/cd player/6stacker changer) in the camry (provided it physically fits), or are there security constraints on it so it will only work on Magnas?

i will be tackling this project at the end of this month, and will put up pictures as i go. I just want to get all the info i can so i dont run into any hiccups and can start straight after my last exam :D

Well the Magna stereo is standard double din, so if the camry is as well there won't be an issue BUT, you will have to chop off your factory loom to wire into the Camry if you want to do that. I personally would put the Camry's stock headunit back in and keep the Magna one.

As for install I'm happy to give you a hand if your in Melbourne with changing the gear over, if your a little concerned about removing trim pieces and such.

Camry headunits may not use the same standard DIN size so double check..

Or make an adaptor with a few cut off looms from the wreckers to adapt the magna HU to the camry so you can still retain the standard plugs. Plus you can make the adaptor nice and short so it doesnt look messy behind there. Adaptor into adaptor into standard loom looks messy as hell

ahh ok, well the camry one is a single din, but the part under is easily removable making it double din. not sure what the implications of cutting off the factory loom are? (i assume it can just be soldered back together?) but i spose its easier to just put the stock camry headunit back as you suggest.

yeh i live in melbourne. thanks for your generous offer. might just take you up on that closer to the time :D

PM sent re the 6cd deck :happy:

Aerpro's the brand.

im guessing this is what i want?

later model http://www.ryda.com.au/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=AP7011

i want the one for later models yeh?

NOT this one http://www.ryda.com.au/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=AP7010&HistoryRemove=5834 ?

Why don't you just spend $100 and buy an aftermarket HU? Just solder the plugs. I wouldnt bother with adaptors unless you are VERY keen on selling this car with the standard HU in it. If not, Just get it soldered in. Will take 45 minutes and look alot cleaner too.
Which part of melbourne are you from?

yeh ive got the aftermarket head unit that ill be takin from the camry (which when friend installed, we used a wireing harness). its just ive heard that using a wireing harness is easier and makes it better if u then want to replace the orginal head unit or swap the head unit later down the line (which i will be wanting to upgrade to a bluetooth or HD HU at some stage)

i live in glen iris, i guess thats metropolitan/eastern, not far from city....

sorry for askin all these questions haha

Surprised you've never seen any of us around then? A couple of members including one of our reps live in Glen Iris and I'm there pretty much every week, never seen your car personally though.

haha sweet, well ive only had the car a month (if that) so thats prolly why... its my new pride and joy :D

ok im getting close to getting ready to install, got under 2 weeks till im done with exams and wanna have all the stuff ready to go, so i have another question... is it worth taking the 4" speakers out of my camry to replace the current ones mounted on top of the dash in my VR-X (would the increase of sound quality be worth the trouble?) attached is a picture of the box with speaker specs and a photo of the location of the current 4" in the VRX (well i think they are 4")...im assuming it would be worth replacing them and that the stocks are in fact 4" speakers?

http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/984/18062009002.th.jpg (http://img8.imageshack.us/my.php?image=18062009002.jpg) http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/2753/18062009004.th.jpg (http://img25.imageshack.us/my.php?image=18062009004.jpg)

Also would it be worth upgrading my speakers in the door (6 and half"/tweeter) to a better pair? id be able to spend up to $100 on this. Any suggestions? Id preferably buy from JB...and i wouldnt be amping these....or at least not any time soon. Do they come in a set? (both tweeter and 6.5"'s?)

I am Pretty sure 4 inches wont fit in the dash there more of a 3 inch Jobbie...(Some one else can clarify and please Provide Pics if they do fit)

With $100 Budget for a set of 6.5 inch Splits you can try and track down a set of Clarion SRQ 1620's ( I got mine for $99) Or go a set of Jaycar response splits which are around the $90-$95 price point..

If you can please get a fellow AMC member to Help build you an MDF build out for your Fronts... The difference between the stock Plastic mount and an MDF mount is Enormous..
I would honestly take Lugo up on the help...


I would Definately Recommend replacing the fronts if your going to run a set of 6x9's and a Sub

ok, almost ready to install, (last exam on tuesday). Will mostly take the system out of camry on wednesday if im not too hung over and start install in magna on thurs (i got the Aerpro APP0111 harness).

2 Questions

1. can anyone confirm with magnat that front dash speakers are 3"?

2. ill prolly be installing on thurs or fri, IF i run into any trouble, or its all over my head, can any of you dudes lend me a hand? (Glen Iris) ...Lugo or TUFFTR? i can return the favour with some beer :P

PS - i wont buy new 6.5" yet unless stock ones sound completly crap with new head unit...and if my LED's arrive in time too, ill install them at same time :D

Also, im doin it myself (initially) as a learning experience, so i know how to do it in future if i upgrade, but will most likely need help or advice

cheers

ok i took the sound system out of the camry with the help of a friend (who just happens to have a verada he converted to manual) Took a lot longer then i expected and ran into plenty of problems such as really brittle plastic and dodgey clips that were hard to undo, but its all out and ready to go in the magna and the original head unit and speakers restored. I will prolly start this tomorrow. Fingers crossed!

http://i39.tinypic.com/2rm1bn4.jpg
mine and friends car out the front

http://i44.tinypic.com/s6nl6p.jpg
Table tennis table during removal

http://i43.tinypic.com/6r0fow.jpg
gutted camry center

http://i39.tinypic.com/e8mwzk.jpg
Restored head unit in camry

Honestly, I wouldn't bother at all with replacing the Dash speakers. they should be 4", as people have put 4" speakers in those spots in the past, I've never bothered to pull out my factory ones to have a look at them to be honest, only pulled them out to unplug them.

You will find a set of 6.5" splits will be great on their own, and if anything the speakers in the dash reflecting off the windscreen will reduce the quality of the sound quite dramatically, and it'll also mess up your ohm ratings if your going to run it off the deck so you won't get much power from the stereo at all.

I'm still more than happy to help you put the speakers in if your worried about pulling the doors apart. I probably won't be doing heaps tomorrow anyway, just got a couple of small things lined up to do around the house so most of my day will be free.

I'll PM you my mobile number, so you can msg me or whatever if you want to organise something, have any questions etc.

So have you finished wiring the headunit in now mate, subs up and running? :P

Let us know when and I'll pop back round and give you a hand with the 6x9"s!

So have you finished wiring the headunit in now mate, subs up and running? :P

Let us know when and I'll pop back round and give you a hand with the 6x9"s!

Haha not yet, i had work today, but after i went and bought some cable ties, some shrink wrap, some velcro and a din pocket to cover the hole. So i pretty much have everything i need. Will do it tomoz morning or sunday.

You are truly a champion as well as a nice guy and thank you so much for your help the other day. Please let me know if there is anything I can ever do for you...not sure what, dont have much expertise at cars, but if you ever need another pair of hands or something let me know...

...and just to let everybody know who didnt already, Lugo is a top bloke!

:redface: Thanks :)

Let us know if you need a hand with the 6x9"s or anything else, I know they're a bitch to get out without the right tool and you don't seem to have much in the way of tools atm lol

good onya lugo, what a champ! good to hear it all worked out... did you find you had leftover screws? i always do haha

haha yeh, i really do need to invest in some more tools, i reckon it would make a good christmas present :D

well in the camry i always had 5 screws left over haha and everything seemed to be screwed bak which was a worry, but this time i had less screws so i guess thats kinda good :S

The TL is all clip parts so no screws have being taken out yet :P

ok i screwed teh headunit together looks nice with the din pocket :D

but im waiting for the GF to come over and help me with soldering, in the meantime i plugged battery back up and tried to start car

everything works when i turn key to on (except the screen under taco where it displays data like ODO etc is just showing the number 5 flashing which is strange) and when i turn the key to start the car, it just makes a click noise and it all shuts off. and nothing works again until i unplug and plug in the battery again....any ideas?

i havnt tried unplugging the amp yet, will go try now (i hate playing with batteries :P) maybe its becos the head unit, hazard lights, climate control and all of that stuff isnt plugged in at the moment and therefore as a safety measure the car wont start?

anyway, ill go try unplugging the amp and report back...

EDIT: I unplugged the amp and still the same problem....

The not starting probably has much to do with your aftermarket alarm. Its probably engaged because the battery has been off the car. Have you tried locking it and unlocking it? Or have you got a manual for the alarm to read what to do when power is disconnected to it?

Regarding the flashing 5, thats actually a flashing S, for sedan. You need to press mode to select that, then select 3.5. Your basically telling the car ecu that its a 3.5L V6 Sedan.

Edit: Without the console in your indicators won't work because they operate through the hazard button, but everything else should function normally.

lol i found it in the manual, as u said the 5 was a S, so followed that and the car starts fine :D, god im such a noob... all is working fine...im soldering the wires atm and using heat shrink on them, however it looks like there is goin to be one extra one coming from the head unit, its brown, its not for the remote, antenna or ground, so im not sure what it is, i might just tape it and see if it works with out it....

do not use heat shrink on soilded wires
just soilder them good/neat and just wrap some electrical tape over it
as long as it soilded and tape tight it'll be fine

ok i got the head unit going :D sounds great

had a few issues with the aerial, but its all working now and only comes on when the radio is on :D

Next problem is the amp, i couldnt get it to work, but i worked out the cable near the connection point was dodgey, so i cut it shorter and soldered a new end on....the amp now comes on when the head unit is on (however the light seems to be a bit faded compared to normal and it sort of dims in and out a bit)

my only problem left is the sub doesnt work.... :( is this becos the amp isnt getting enough power? or the ground is wrong? im guessing its to do with the light not being full bright on the amp and thus not getting enough power to power the amp...but i have no idea.... any ideas?

-ive checked fuses in amp and all good as far as i can tell
-ive checked all the wiring into the amp and its all good, ive checked at the head unit end and its all correct
-ive checked head unit settings and sub settings, its all go...

what should i do next?

Is the left sub connected?

Probably the earth. Get some sandpaper and sand back around that bolt I ran the earth too. I was going to do it when I was there but when we were running out of time I forgot about it and daresay I forgot to mention it to you.

I doubt the issue is any greater than that, but if its still presenting an issue after you sand the metal around that bolt back to the bare metal give us a buzz and I'll come by as soon as I can.

i checked the wires again... all seem to be good and i unplugged one of the two subs for testing purposes.

so do i sand the thread of the top of the bolt where the earth cable will touch it? is that ok?

lol i think i have to go buy some sand paper...my shed is so illequiped :P

EDIT: oh dont worry, i see, u mean sand the paint around where the connector touches the backshelf...yeh?

Yeah, around the shelf where the connector touches the metal. Don't sand the thread on the bolt, you'll sand the thread off if your not careful and you'll need a new bolt lol

ok ive done that, and yes that fixed the amp light problem, its now on full bright and doesnt fade in and out :D....unfortunatly, the sub still aint goin... :( im pondering it now....

ive come up with 3 ideas...

1. its either somehow wired wrong
2. the RCA cable is buggered
3. or we damaged the sub when we screwed the amp too it

any ideas/suggestions?

RCA cables were buggered, replaced them and its all good now :D YAY!!!

will put some pics up soon, still havnt replaced the 6x9's or restored the center console, a job for tomoz :D

http://i44.tinypic.com/2mcbkia.jpg

Sick, cables look nice and neat. Didn't have an troubles getting the trims off? I presume you ran them the same way?

yep. ran them the way you showed me :D no troubles getting the trims off :D

i was really sick yesterday, so havnt had a chance to put the console back or look at 6x9's yet....

i did start puttin the center console back and i had trouble gettin the top part to slot in properly...but only spent 5 mins trying so if im feeling better ill try again today...

OMG a Bandpass Enclosure !! SWEEEEEEEEEETTTTTTTT!!!!!!!!
There my favourite type of enclosure !

(Bandpass = Sealed Section with seperate ported section.. the Bass they give out is BRILLIANT)

not sure if ur taking the piss, but you can buy the whole thing including subs brand new for $40 lol

Ive got it connected to a second hand US-Audio amp i bought also for $40. The subs are actually very very decent considering the price i paid and in my opinion is as clear/loud as some of my friends subs that they paid $150+ for lol

Theres also neons in the enclosure so blue light can come out those holes if you want :D

Sub Specs
10"x2 SUBWOOFER
P.P CONE FOAM EDGE
40 OZ MAGNET
4-LAYERS VOICE COIL(AL): 2"
MAX POWER: 2200W
FREQ.RESP.: 35-300HZ
IMPEDANCE: 4 OHM
SPL: 93dB/W/M
Weight: 18Kg
Dimension: 72(L)x 34(W)x 35 (H)

Hey guys,

I was putting the console back, and i got it to fit properly, but there seems to be a slight gap (about half a centermeter) all the way around the outside of the head unit and the pocket (not between them). Any ideas on how to cover or fix this?

http://i32.tinypic.com/nqe4n8.jpg

http://i29.tinypic.com/2eolabt.jpg

Not very noticeable and hard to see in pics, but hopefully u can see...

Did the headunit come with a faceplate surround? I had this issue around the pocket when I had my old headunit (See here (http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r161/rhys_fairall/Verada/S63001942.jpg), albeit hard to see in that photo).

The only way around it afaik is to get a genuine climate console suited din pocket from mitsu, or a wreckers. Regarding the headunit, you'll need to source the faceplate surround if you don't have yours in the box.

Rip the 10 inchers out of the box when they blow and sink a decent set into it... but seriously... they are a BASS heads Delight...

and no, I am not taking the Piss out of you... I love them...

yeh it came with a faceplate but it doesnt fit :(

maybe ill have to sand it down....but theres a gap around the pocket too...

i was thinking maybe ill just get some black foam or rubber and cut a surround of it out and put it in?

I might put 6x9's in tomoz....any tips?

also ive cable tied the amp wire (red one) thru-out the engine bay and strapped down the fuse, i was just wondering, the cable crosses over a silver pipe about 2cm thick that runs from back to front of engine bay down left side (not sure what it is but gets reasonably hot), is there any chance the red cable will melt or something? ive driven the car for like an hour today and had no problems, but just wanna be safe...

Get a small ratchet screwdriver for the 6x9 installation like I showed you the other day. Mine cost $10 in a small kit from Supercheap, it'll save you hours of swearing and cursing.