OKAY, so I thought this would be the best place to put it. generic as it may come along for many people.

As some of you may have read, I've come accross a 'bodykit' of sorts for my car. I've been trying all morning to test fit this to my TR donor car in my backyard, HOWEVER, without drilling it yet, I can't hold it up. NOW, these door moulds, they clip along the bottom but are glued with what seems to be a high strength double sided tape along the top.

As with the side skirt, it is screwed along the bottom into the body and is glued with this tape along the top. I've tried normal double sided tape, but it just isnt strong enough for the weight of the skirting.

Any help fro people with kits or anyone that works in a body shop??

Thanks in advance...

P.S: Does Sikaflex attract rust like silastic or silicone? If sikaflex is an option I'll use that (plenty here at home)

Head into Clark Rubber and grab a can of Bostik Industrial Strangth Contact Bond.
The stuff is ultra strong and you have to be cautious when using it incase you get any on your fingers. It's almost like a plastic weld.
Get a can for $14.99.

http://www.primeindustrialsupplies.com.au/productimages/156272.jpg

Automotive sikaflex is good aswell.Can buy from most hardware places and it is used to glue windscreens in with and can stick to practically anything but make sure the surface is clean before glueing.

Automotive sikaflex is good aswell.Can buy from most hardware places and it is used to glue windscreens in with and can stick to practically anything but make sure the surface is clean before glueing.

Yep! We used it on Cybermonkey's side skirts today, good stuff :)

yes good stuff. My hands are black and sticky

Does Sikaflex attract rust like silastic or silicone? If sikaflex is an option I'll use that (plenty here at home)Sikaflex will not attract rust, it is an inert polyurethane. If you are using Sikaflex to stick your body kits on, use Sikaflex 252 and either double sided tape or some other means to hold it/ secure it for the first 3 or 4 hours until the Sikaflex grabs. Double sided tape is usually the best option as it then provides the necessary thickness for the Sikaflex. Since it isn't a contact adhesive, it requires a minimum of 2mm thickness of product to achieve the best strength/bond results.
and lmao at the 'got heaps of it at home', I got a 1000 square metre shed of it :)

and lmao at the 'got heaps of it at home', I got a 1000 square metre shed of it :)

well I should have specified...we used it for our floating floors, hence why we have heaps. I dont know whether this is the right stuff:P

BUT i'll look around for the automotive sikaflex and the 252 (same product??). I'll also check out the bostik one dimi suggested. thanks guys...

you don't want to be using the stuff you used for your floating floors on your body kit, whilst it may (and I stress the may) have similar adhesive properties (I have seen timber floor ripped up, where it takes concrete with it) to the 252, it doesn't have the tensile strength or the ability to withstand dynamic stresses like the 252 does. Basically, yes you could use the T55J (flooring adhesive) to bond your kit on, but it will set a lot more rigid and any movement in your kit will see it peel off your car.

you don't want to be using the stuff you used for your floating floors on your body kit, whilst it may (and I stress the may) have similar adhesive properties (I have seen timber floor ripped up, where it takes concrete with it) to the 252, it doesn't have the tensile strength or the ability to withstand dynamic stresses like the 252 does. Basically, yes you could use the T55J (flooring adhesive) to bond your kit on, but it will set a lot more rigid and any movement in your kit will see it peel off your car.

thats what I thought. lol. yeah nah i'll be on the lookout for some automotive stuff then. we glued down our timber floor only to have it move. ended up ripping the floor itself up. lol

EDIT:With the 252, would this adhesive mean I wouldnt have to drill the body at all? if so, then i'll do that because i'm definately a bit iffy on drilling the body...

the 252 needs no other means of fixing at all, so no drilling needed :) just make sure you hold the kit against the car, to give the stuff a chance to grab, generally 3 - 4 hours. As I said earlier, the easiest way is to use double sided tape, this holds the kit in place while the sikaflex grabs and also gives you the 2mm thickness of sikaflex you need

the 252 needs no other means of fixing at all, so no drilling needed :) just make sure you hold the kit against the car, to give the stuff a chance to grab, generally 3 - 4 hours. As I said earlier, the easiest way is to use double sided tape, this holds the kit in place while the sikaflex grabs and also gives you the 2mm thickness of sikaflex you need

EXCELLENT! love u long time lol. Thanks mate, much appreciated. I'll probably go with the 252 then if It means I dont have to drill.

yes good stuff. My hands are black and sticky

that's what Rav says after a lonely night....:ninja: