well go it in...
turns out it hits nothing, but is a **** of a job, which is why is actually easier to get it welded... as in would take you alot less time. I however didnt get it welded.. was advised not to,.. but it was very fiddly because doing up the bolts takes forever as its a tiny space to get into to do the bolts up (no good having fat fingers ).. the holes were drilled and it fitted quiet well, only thing that i would say is sometimes the exhaust knocks on it at times around certain corners,.. but that doesnt really worry me..!
Different ride, sits well. love it. thanks again to the member on here who installed it for me (not sure if he wants to be named cause prolly doesnt wanna do more hehe) as he charged me next to nothing for an annoying time consuming job!.
http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp88/CASS-VRXTJ/1243151339.jpg
http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp88/CASS-VRXTJ/1243151338.jpg
http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp88/CASS-VRXTJ/1243151336.jpg
http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp88/CASS-VRXTJ/1243151335.jpg
http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp88/CASS-VRXTJ/1243151334.jpg

How much was that?

50 bucks...
but technically due to the time it took and hassle other places woulda charged me at least $150 as thats what a local place quoted me... it took about an hour and a half to install i think it was..
however it may be diff if its welded i dont know. I know tuff tr down in vic got his all welded on for 50 bucks too.

yours isnt still sitting that high is it?

how did ur handling change?

yours isnt still sitting that high is it?

eh what ya mean?

eh what ya mean?

my thoughts exactly

how did ur handling change?

errm sways alot less thats all i can say so far! tighter.. :

errm sways alot less thats all i can say so far! tighter.. :

lol hence the name "swaybar" :happy:

i think he was tryna say... it isnt still standard height
but alas yes it still has heavy duty pedders in it..
BUT both members on here who went that way instead of lowering can agree it makes handling and speed around corners ALOT better.. ie from 80km around bends to pushing over 100 (the heavy duties im talking about not the sway bar.. havent tested IT out fully yet).

so no....not lowered as yet.

aaahhhh ok im wid ya ... you could have taken a pic of me with my tuff stickers showing lol and i seriously need shirts that fit me lol the make my arms look tiny (didnt notice until now)

going by those pics, ira unlikely the exhaust piping is touching on the sway bar, but i would say any knocking you get would be from the linkage closest to the exhaust hanger mount in pic 2.

No biggy, i think it looks tight (hott) and as long as you can feel it doing its job then its money well spent. Did the kit come with all the poly mounts and ****?

Might look into this while the rada is off the road

no no the knock noise is coz i think i may have forgotten to put her exhuast rubber back on (didnt know my mate took it off until cass had already left)

going by those pics, ira unlikely the exhaust piping is touching on the sway bar, but i would say any knocking you get would be from the linkage closest to the exhaust hanger mount in pic 2.

No biggy, i think it looks tight (hott) and as long as you can feel it doing its job then its money well spent. Did the kit come with all the poly mounts and ****?

Might look into this while the rada is off the road


mate it was 219 off ebay, for just the rear, and yes came with everything in the pic,.. nothing needed. Even the grease is supplied.

mate it was 219 off ebay, for just the rear, and yes came with everything in the pic,.. nothing needed. Even the greese is supplied.

its top notch grease too lol

What was the reason for being advised not to weld it? makes it so much easier....
Just curious..

;1050670']What was the reason for being advised not to weld it? makes it so much easier....
Just curious..

without knowing what part of the swaybar was being welded i advised against it, i didnt know if ppl was welding the d-brackets or the l-brackets or the actual bar itself. i guess welding the l-brackets to the chassis wouldnt be too much of a risk but i think anything related to a car should be done properly not rushed or corners cut and plus some ppl cant weld for **** which could cause futre poblems

looks the goods cass when are we gonna test it out?

Nah mate, Just the L brackets got welded to the chassis. Its an adjustable swaybar so yeah don't weld the D brackets :P

next, it needs dumping.

;1050805']Nah mate, Just the L brackets got welded to the chassis. Its an adjustable swaybar so yeah don't weld the D brackets :P

ripped mines not adjustable :(

Looking at that first pic, woah the bottom bush is squashed WAY too much it will severely reduce its service life.

The bushes should only have a slight bulge in them (you turn the nuts maybe another 1.0 to 1.5 turns so that the bush sides slightly bulge). It is exxagerated moreso on your car because the three bushes in that stack are all bulging to a different amount (they should all be even).

Also, the L bracket bolt should be tightened when the wheels are at normal ride height, i.e. not hanging whilst car's up on a hoist. They should be tightened whilst the car is on drive on ramps/lift, or parked over a pit. If not done this way, the swaybar is already under tension when your car is stationary, reducing it's effectiveness when you actually start driving.

I've attached a photo of how they were correctly installed on mine (driver's side shown)

Looking at that first pic, woah the bottom bush is squashed WAY too much it will severely reduce its service life.

The bushes should only have a slight bulge in them (you turn the nuts maybe another 1.0 to 1.5 turns so that the bush sides slightly bulge). It is exxagerated moreso because the three bushes in that stack are all bulging to a different amount (they should all be even).

I've attached a photo of how they were correctly installed on mine.

Woah your right, Didn't notice that on the first pic, But yeah WAY overtightened :|

Looking at that first pic, woah the bottom bush is squashed WAY too much it will severely reduce its service life.

The bushes should only have a slight bulge in them (you turn the nuts maybe another 1.0 to 1.5 turns so that the bush sides slightly bulge). It is exxagerated moreso on your car because the three bushes in that stack are all bulging to a different amount (they should all be even).

Also, the L bracket bolt should be tightened when the wheels are at normal ride height, i.e. not hanging whilst car's up on a hoist. They should be tightened whilst the car is on drive on ramps/lift, or parked over a pit. If not done this way, the swaybar is already under tension when your car is stationary, reducing it's effectiveness when you actually start driving.

I've attached a photo of how they were correctly installed on mine (driver's side shown)


damn it and doh...

Hhmmm! Would it be an easy fix or a fact of getting more bits and redoing it?

Looking at that first pic, woah the bottom bush is squashed WAY too much it will severely reduce its service life.

The bushes should only have a slight bulge in them (you turn the nuts maybe another 1.0 to 1.5 turns so that the bush sides slightly bulge). It is exxagerated moreso on your car because the three bushes in that stack are all bulging to a different amount (they should all be even).

Also, the L bracket bolt should be tightened when the wheels are at normal ride height, i.e. not hanging whilst car's up on a hoist. They should be tightened whilst the car is on drive on ramps/lift, or parked over a pit. If not done this way, the swaybar is already under tension when your car is stationary, reducing it's effectiveness when you actually start driving.

I've attached a photo of how they were correctly installed on mine (driver's side shown)


you are very right about squashing the bushes which is why they were backed off once everything was mounted, also seeing as the ts/tr are dead axle rears the swaybar has already served no real purpose and the l-brackets are done up as to not have any movement at all which means it doesnt make a difference where they are tightened when the car is put back on the ground the l-brackets wont be under anymore stress if anything the d-bushes and brackets would cop most of the stress.picture two is how the bushes were left once everything was completed

ok so yer i agree a bit tight! but not too much for rubber but a bit over board for poly., well poly so thats the big deal! Also the photo shows the fitted position hanging? i think.. Maybe when on the ground its ok?

Great job im sure but always worth checking a week later for adjustments etc.

I'd still back off the nuts a bit after a week or so, as poly can split or crack after time.(more so than rubber.)

If it was mine i'd use rubber as its cheap and doesn't stress other components that weren't made for that.

Worked at Holden for a while and poly will root the set up after only low k"s. It cracked arms etc ,to much load on one point.

Al the best and im sure it works fine , just back off the nuts a bit.

ok so yer i agree a bit tight! but not too much for rubber but a bit over board for poly., well poly so thats the big deal! Also the photo shows the fitted position hanging? i think.. Maybe when on the ground its ok?

Great job im sure but always worth checking a week later for adjustments etc.

I'd still back off the nuts a bit after a week or so, as poly can split or crack after time.(more so than rubber.)

If it was mine i'd use rubber as its cheap and doesn't stress other components that weren't made for that.

Worked at Holden for a while and poly will root the set up after only low k"s. It cracked arms etc ,to much load on one point.

Al the best and im sure it works fine , just back off the nuts a bit.

when we put the bar on i did it tight to make sure the bar wasent going to fall on my head iv had bad encounters with plastic lock nuts,if you look at the first pic you will notice most of the thread is sticking out at the top and the bottom nut isnt even done all the way on then look at the second pic and you will see the thread out the bottom and all bushes are fine.when the first pic was taken nothing had been adjusted it was just there holding the bar

Sorry but that photo did'nt show up well.

Im sure its fine now but at least the newbies have a post about over tightening the bushes.

all the best and may the magna be with you!

when we put the bar on i did it tight to make sure the bar wasent going to fall on my head iv had bad encounters with plastic lock nuts,if you look at the first pic you will notice most of the thread is sticking out at the top and the bottom nut isnt even done all the way on then look at the second pic and you will see the thread out the bottom and all bushes are fine.when the first pic was taken nothing had been adjusted it was just there holding the bar

Thanks for clarifying mate, I didn't look closely at the second pic and would agree that it looks fine once you'd backed it off. Sorry for jumping the gun + agreed the bars are not light either ;)

Thanks for clarifying mate, I didn't look closely at the second pic and would agree that it looks fine once you'd backed it off. Sorry for jumping the gun + agreed the bars are not light either ;)

haha no worries mate , the other mechanic tore it up me too the second he saw it not knowing why i had it like that

haha and i, the dealership mechanic, saw nothing wrong lol

Got mine installed today, seems to make the car feel more rigid.

Mine is touching the exhaust ever so slightly and rattles on a bad road.