My Dad has a 6 cyl TS. On acceleration it simply flounders and has no power. I've changed: the plugs, leads, fuel filter and distributor cap (which had a crack in it).

Although its slightly improved, the engine still runs 'without any guts'. It idles fine, but as soon as you accelerate away it just doesn't want to go. Any ideas at all?

have you checked that the timing belt marks are aligned?
*edit, Sorry the cam gears are aligned properly* could be out a tooth, i know mine ran like crap when it did.

also injectors, fuel filter, fuel pump

+1 on timing being out.

EDIT; Does the gearbox change through all 4 gears as per normal operation? If not, GB may be in Limp-Home Mode.

I hear what you say, but I changed the timing belt approx a year ago and its run fine after the change and until quite recently. Fuel filter was filthy, new one fitted now. As for the fuel pump, I assumed that if the engines still running at all, it must be alright.

did it happen gradually or just all of a sudden?, Might still be worth making sure the timing marks are still aligned? Bit of a doozy you have there, Can't help that much though mate sorry...

Yes Yann the gearbox goes through all gears, albeit a little confused due to the lack of power.

how does she go up hills? does it have a different exhaust note?

BIG it drives up hills with a struggle, although not quite as bad as before I changed all the obvious bits n pieces. As for the exhaust note, I'd say theres no great difference.

I'd check your timing, sounds like it has retard too far for some reason.

Slick, do you mean ignition or valve timing?

Ignition timing mate

;1056523']have you checked that the timing belt marks are aligned?
*edit, Sorry the cam gears are aligned properly* could be out a tooth, i know mine ran like crap when it did.


+1 on timing being out.

EDIT; Does the gearbox change through all 4 gears as per normal operation? If not, GB may be in Limp-Home Mode.


I'd check your timing, sounds like it has retard too far for some reason.

coincidence?;)

I cant really see this happening, but there is 1 nut holding your dizzy in place if you have the 2.6 and maybe this nut has come loose and your dizzy has fallen/moved a bit and retarded your timing.....

hmmm I'll check the ign timing and get back to you

Any engine error codes registered? It's easy to check by hooking up a simple led test light to the diagnostic connector in the driver's side footwell.

No TeK, no error codes.

strange.. i cant see the ignition timing changing unless you tampered wth it or bumped it by accident. do u use regular fuel or higher octane? might be worth throwing a tank of it in, perhaps an octane booster?
does it run/idle smooth or rough?

if u havent touched anything and the problem just "happened" then id check for vacuum leaks, electrical connections (namely the MAF) or possibly the diodes on the ecu motherboard, in 2nd gens they like to split and leak, fooping up the ecu face

strange.. i cant see the ignition timing changing unless you tampered wth it or bumped it by accident. do u use regular fuel or higher octane? might be worth throwing a tank of it in, perhaps an octane booster?
does it run/idle smooth or rough?

if u havent touched anything and the problem just "happened" then id check for vacuum leaks, electrical connections (namely the MAF) or possibly the diodes on the ecu motherboard, in 2nd gens they like to split and leak, fooping up the ecu face

If the MAF is unplugged, car won't start. vacuum leak will cause the car's idle to hunt, high low high low etc..
Timing belt could of jumped but *highly* unlikely as its a solid tensioner.

I would check your dizzy timing, might be out a tooth?!?!

Yes I've had a leaky capacitor in the ECU on a TR 2.6 I used to have, but it simply died ... full stop ... no go at all.

;1057151']If the MAF is unplugged, car won't start. vacuum leak will cause the car's idle to hunt, high low high low etc..

I drove my car for ages without a MAF, they start fine.

Sounds like I have a vacuum leak though.

I use regular fuel, it idles quite well. Was advised to slip a tank of super in as it contains cleaning agents similar to injector cleaner (not sure on that one, but I'm trying it anyway).

I use regular fuel, it idles quite well. Was advised to slip a tank of super in as it contains cleaning agents similar to injector cleaner (not sure on that one, but I'm trying it anyway).

Stop!!!!!!!!!

I had an unleaded motor rebuilt to race spec once and to save cash had the fuel filler moded so i could use super leaded as high octane in my area was not around.This was a few years ago of course, Any way 1 tank of super later and it turned the cat into lumps of charcoal, had to remove the whole exhaust to get the crap out.

cheers.

Also my car will start with the maf unplugged. The check engine light comes on and it runs with little power and stalls alot. I forgot to put it back on when i fist fitted my pod filter.

After accelerating and up to speed does it run smoothly again or is a dog.

Had what seems like a similar problem on a KS several years ago.

Have ALL the ignition leads been changed??

The other suspect is the injectors.
Well worth getting them cleaned.

Gerry

Gerry, after reaching speed it cruises well.

Have changed the leads, yes.

;1057151']If the MAF is unplugged, car won't start. vacuum leak will cause the car's idle to hunt, high low high low etc..
Timing belt could of jumped but *highly* unlikely as its a solid tensioner.

I would check your dizzy timing, might be out a tooth?!?!


Cant think its the dizzy teeth as its never been off :tired:

Super has not been available for years, super had lead, no cleaning agents

You need to check the obvious like the timing belt being correctly alligned, I know you have changed it but I have seen them jump after many months for various reasons.

Check you coil also, your ignition timing (do it properly by jumping the connector)

Check your injectors, get them properly cleaned as there is no bottle product available that will correctly clean injectors.

Check you TPS and other various plugs as the second gen are well known for corroded pins within the electrical connections

Also, do not discount items because "it has never been off, on, adjusted, played with, looked at" etc as stranger things have happened many a time before

;1057151']If the MAF is unplugged, car won't start. vacuum leak will cause the car's idle to hunt, high low high low etc..
Timing belt could of jumped but *highly* unlikely as its a solid tensioner.

I would check your dizzy timing, might be out a tooth?!?!

not unplugged as such, more so the contacts arent contacting. mine had this problem a while back and caused more than a few dramas :tired:

Forgive my ignorance but whats the MAF? The airflow sensor?

Anyone: Whats the cost of getting injectors cleaned, and who would do such a job?

Super has not been available for years, super had lead, no cleaning agents

You need to check the obvious like the timing belt being correctly alligned, I know you have changed it but I have seen them jump after many months for various reasons.

Check you coil also, your ignition timing (do it properly by jumping the connector)

Check your injectors, get them properly cleaned as there is no bottle product available that will correctly clean injectors.

Check you TPS and other various plugs as the second gen are well known for corroded pins within the electrical connections

Also, do not discount items because "it has never been off, on, adjusted, played with, looked at" etc as stranger things have happened many a time before

Thanks mate, I will check all plugs/connectors tomorrow

mum had a 3.0 and everything appeared fine, wondered why it was so sluggish... had the injectors cleaned and it made a big difference!

Anyone: Whats the cost of getting injectors cleaned, and who would do such a job?

Mobile Injector Services (MIS) are the guys to see. they did mine for $110 (4cyl) however i took the fuel rail off myself. they charge extra if they have to pull the rail off. give them a ring, they come to you and are very professional

0419 716180

Re-co ones go for about $160 for 6

;1058418']Re-co ones go for about $160 for 6

spot on jared

Was advised to slip a tank of super in as it contains cleaning agents similar to injector cleaner (not sure on that one, but I'm trying it anyway).
They may have meant to use an ethanol blend, it can help remove some impurities from the system. Which is why some people try it once and say they hate it, that it went badly; primarily because lots of the **** that's been sitting in your tank etc gets run through the engine, if you've never used it before you need to run a couple of tanks before the crap is reduced and you run cleanly.
But by no means does ethanol (or I think the "performance" petrols also have additives) thoroughly clean the injectors, it can help, but it's like cleaning your teeth, sometimes you have to go to the dentist to get a really good clean as a starting point.
(I haven't had my injectors cleaned properly, so can't say how much difference it makes)

Mobile Injector Services (MIS) are the guys to see. they did mine for $110 (4cyl) however i took the fuel rail off myself. they charge extra if they have to pull the rail off. give them a ring, they come to you and are very professional

0419 716180

Are they only located in Brisbane?

spot on jared

Would REPCO stock them do you think? If not, would you have a name for me?

They may have meant to use an ethanol blend, it can help remove some impurities from the system. Which is why some people try it once and say they hate it, that it went badly; primarily because lots of the **** that's been sitting in your tank etc gets run through the engine, if you've never used it before you need to run a couple of tanks before the crap is reduced and you run cleanly.
But by no means does ethanol (or I think the "performance" petrols also have additives) thoroughly clean the injectors, it can help, but it's like cleaning your teeth, sometimes you have to go to the dentist to get a really good clean as a starting point.
(I haven't had my injectors cleaned properly, so can't say how much difference it makes)

I'll give the ethanol a go if you can explain why it works ..... I'm getting all sorts of fuel suggestions. One thing I do know from experience is that shop bought additives do no good whatsoever .... all in head of the manufacturer methinks ....

It might be a pain but cars need maintenance. some cheap, some dear. we all cant afford new cars but second hand is good but then the maintenance adds up.

loose loose situation,

I bit the bullet and had my injectors done and it helped heaps. not cheap as there a pain to get out.

I'd rather have an older car sweet than a newer car NQR. Helps heaps if you can do a bit your self or know a good meck who lets you do some work at his garage like fiddle stuff that is so he can just get to the bits needing fixing.

All the best

Are they only located in Brisbane?

im not too sure on there whereabouts or where they will or wont go to. best way to find out is to ring and ask

repco should have the injectors chilling out on the shelf, if not they can order them for ya

Have you replaced the rotor?
If your cap was cracked then chances are the rotor is also cactus.