After my old alternator died, I thought I was fortunate enough to find one on eBay. It arrived today, but I'm not sure if it is actually going to be usable or not?

On my old alternator, there was a little black dooby attached to the D+ terminal, which had a short lead that attached back to the alternator via a spade connector close by.

However on the 'new' alternator the black dooby was missing, and the female connection on the alternator appears to have broken off - not to mention that the threaded post the black dooby bolts to seems to be either pushed in or broken itself.

So, my question is what is the purpose of the black dooby and is this an issue? Is the alternator likely to be non-functional as a result, or cause any problems if I attempted to install it and use it? I'm trying to get my computer to recognise my phone so I can upload a pic of the black dooby, but then I figure anyone who knows enough to help will know what I'm talking about anyway! :happy:

I'm a bit pissed in one sense because I was hoping to just be able to put the 'new' alternator straight in and have a working car after 2 weeks off the road. But if it is FUBAR then it isn't too bad since I bought it through PayPal and it wont be any trouble filing for a refund if need be. I'd rather just know what's wrong and be able to 'just fix it' though!

The missing black dooby is a suppressor (capacitor) which assists in suppressing any alternator interference with your radio. No black dooby = electrical interference (whining sound) with your radio that goes up & down with the engine revs. If both the alternators are the same brand/type/model you could try swapping the regulator & brush assemblies (this is the unit that the wiring harness plugs into) over. Be worth trying as I've seen a few alternators at the pick a part places that have the regulator & brush assembly missing. My sons TP wagon had an alternator problem about 2 yrs back and all came good after I fitted another regulator and brush assembly.

Cheers

*edit - I am wrong and need to research more on alternators lol

I would have considered swapping regs and seeing how it went, except for the fact that the old one seems to have 'internal issues'.

Between the two 'spring' contacts for the regulator was evidence of something amiss. Not sure exactly what might have happened, but there appears to be a 'track' burned between them. Comparing this to the other alternator reveals no similar damage (or any indication of it), so even to me it is clear something is amiss! Enough so to rule out any swap, I would think.

Sound like a return and refund job.

I agree, but it would help to know specific details about *why* it is broken so that I can explain it to the seller in such a way as to actually be believed in the first place. People who might otherwise dig in and cause problems can often become a lot more amenable when they know that bull****ting you isn't going to work, and that they are not being bull****ted themselves.

Mmm damaged packaging = transit damage. Non damaged packaging = unit damaged prior to dispatch or wrong unit dispatched. I suppose if you did the install and it didn't work you could explain that upon installation and test the unit was found to be faulty and you could request a refund upon return of the item.

No damage to the packaging, plus examination of the stub reveals no indication of the break being recent (ie. no 'clean' metal as per a fresh break). The stud that the suppressor itself screws on to looks much the same (in terms of colouration - it almost looks like it could just be pushed in tho).

I'm guessing it was dropped after removal and landed hard on the suppressor itself, with the stud and spade connector being sheared off, since there are no signs of damage at all to the alternator casing itself.

Maybe an email to the supplier with photo's attached to explain the condition it was in when received but with no finger pointing.

Yep, that's pretty much what I just said. Described the damage and that it is not usable, and requested a post-paid satchel and refund and that I would return it and leave positive feedback based on the resolution. Pointed out that oxidation at the break points indicated the damage was not recent, and also that it may have worked when removed and he just wasn't aware of the damage. Hopefully he'll just say "no problems" and do as requested, but from previous experience with PayPal it wont be too hard to get the refund anyway. Bugger.

It does mean we're without a car for a while longer tho, but I did manage to locate a new one (also on eBay) for $253:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=280349153036

This one seems to have an integrated regulator tho, which I guess makes servicing the brushes quite an interesting procedure!

Yeah you need a soldering iron to replace the brushes.

If you have transport then pick a part wreckers are the go. TP magna alternators etc go for about $50.00 with 3 months warranty so maybe one to suit your model would be say $100-150

Cheers

$$250!!!! for a new alternator why not get ure old one reconditoned for like 100 150 max as good as a new one half the cost!!!

Dont know where they get the models that they fit from as the above alt will nto fit a third gen to begin with

I assuem you have a second Gen???

Replacing a reg is a temp fix only as you can not repair and test the armiture when you are just doing a reg

I would suggest as above you take your current altinator to an auto elec, you may be surprised how good it is to ahve one with new bearings, machined armiture and new reg. They will regrove the armiture, machine it and give you a warranty that no fleabay store will give you.

What was wrong with the old one? Most alternator problems just occur through use or age, and can be reconditioned for considerably less that the price listed on that website. Thats from my experience anyway.

You could get one from the wreckers (such as a pull it off yourself place) but you have no guarantees that it isn't worn, at least with reconditioning its your alternator thats fixed. It may have been a faulty regulator or worn brushes to start with, pretty easy and comparitively cheaply fixed!

Hey mate,what alternator have you got,is it a bosch? ( i assume it is having a D+ terminal),can you get a photo of the back of the alternator for me?

If it has a balck regulator on the back that has a push on plug with two little terminals on it (RE60) style,all you need to do with your old suppressor is to cut of the female push on terminal,put a ring terminal in its place,and bolt this end onto the main B+ terminal,then bolt the black box to one off the bolts on the back of the alt so that is earthed,yep,its only a radio supressor!

Steve

Dont know where they get the models that they fit from as the above alt will nto fit a third gen to begin with

I assuem you have a second Gen???

Replacing a reg is a temp fix only as you can not repair and test the armiture when you are just doing a reg

I would suggest as above you take your current altinator to an auto elec, you may be surprised how good it is to ahve one with new bearings, machined armiture and new reg. They will regrove the armiture, machine it and give you a warranty that no fleabay store will give you.

From his other post,he had diodes go to earth and cause a draw IIRC,so they would also need to replace the rectifier pack aswell,sometimes,when you replace the rectifier,fit a new slip ring to the rotor,check the stator,fit new bearings and a new reg plus labour,they can be on par with a new unit,gone are the days that people rebuild unfortunately!,unless they have to

Quick Question to the OP What model Magna do you have? If is 1st or second gen they can have two types either Bosch or Jap. Jap alternator = throw away as they are a pain to service/rebuild. Bosch are easily serviced if all you need is to replace regulator/brush pack. Jap regulator /brushes are internal but Bosch are held in place by two screws at rear of alternator.Diode pack in bosch rarely need replacement but armature slip rings do wear out eventualy.Can check this by looking at them with brush/reg unit removed.If they have a major wear groove you will see it . By the way no rhyme or reason to either bosch or jap at manufacture seems that it was whatever was to hand at time of assembly. My TS Verada had a jap but my TS exec had a Bosch.Bosch can be rebuilt with higher output reg where jap cannot.Difference between most Bosch is the front and rear cases.The internals are the same ie:to make a high output unit you only have to change the end plates. Have taken a 85 amp out of a crummydoor and swapped the end cases of other vehicles and refitted many times.

You could check this one out http://cgi.ebay.com.au/MITSUBISHI-MAGNA-TE-TF-TH-TJ-VERADA-ALTERNATOR_W0QQitemZ160337356488QQcmdZViewItemQQpt ZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item2554d9e6c8&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262&_trkparms=%7C301%3A0%7C293%3A2%7C294%3A30 to see if it's suitable.

If the brushes had been a problem then the symptoms would have been very different - worn brushes don't cause the alternator to pull 3A with the engine and all accessories off! Aside from diode issues, there was evidence of internal wear/damage, and I didn't see the point in paying an unknown amount of good money that could well approach the point where it made more sense to get a brand new unit anyway. So after the issues with the first attempt at a replacement it was easier just to do exactly that - the great thing about new is that while it may cost more, you do get the peace of mind of knowing it will actually do the job without the hassles! :)

Anyway, I should have the new one in a couple of days and then it should all be sorted. At last.

aaaaagggggghhhhhhh!!!!!!!

Stoopid alternators. Stoopid cars. Stoopid. Stoopid. Stoopid. :eek2::eek2::eek2::eek2::eek2:

Okay, so I get the first alternator which is missing the noise suppressor etc as per previous discussions in this thread. I then get a 'new' alternator which when it arrives is sporting a completely different pulley to what it should have and which has a pivot mount that is not the same specs and is too wide for the mounting bolt.

This is going on for 3 weeks now, due to the time pressures caused by too damn many things to do, and only 24 hours in a day to do them. You know the drill.

So in my frustration I take the first alternator (the busted one) to the local auto-electrician, who informs me that not all cars actually have them anyway. They bench-tested it for me and it was 100%, so it would appear that apart from the 'missing' noise suppressor, everything is fine and there's no reason I couldn't have just used it from the start. The tab that the lead from the noise suppressor *would* have slipped on to is definitely meant to have been there at some point, so I'm guessing that maybe it was broken off deliberately due to simply not being required?

Anyway, that leaves me with a used alternator that might have been broken but isn't, and a new alternator that should have worked fine but doesn't! Can you feel me going crazy yet???

So it gets worse. Or better. Depending on how messed up you already are, and whether you think the misery of others is entertaining.

The guy who sold the used alternator was only too happy to give a refund, but it still hasn't processed because he didn't have enough money in his bank account. I can't cancel the dispute myself because apparently only he can do that. So I've emailed him to explain the problem and apologise, and may yet have to send him back some money if it goes through before he can cancel it. Meanwhile, it turns out the seller of the new one isn't exactly one of the best communicators, so who knows how long it will take to get a return and refund processed on that one.

On the plus side, it's good to know that I do have a working alternator after all, and that the car will be back on the road just as soon as I have a chance to put it in. Assuming I can still remember where all those bolts go...

And to top it all off, sometime either Friday evening or Saturday morning, I will be catching the bus down to Canberra to pick up our new 1996 3.5L GLX Pajero with only 167000km on the clock - that's less than half what the Magna has! It's been a bloody good car for us, my mechanical incompetence notwithstanding, and I'll certainly miss the old girl. We needed a bigger car and I wanted a 4WD for my offroad activities, and the experiences with the Magna were good enough that the Pajero was my first choice - I would have gone with whatever was good and affordable within our budget, but I'm glad that it ended up being a Pajero! I'll have to have a look in the forum to check which Magna's had the 6G74...so I'll still be around anyway.

Least you also know the general mods that work for it too, since the engine is practically the same.

Quick Question to the OP What model Magna do you have? If is 1st or second gen they can have two types either Bosch or Jap. Jap alternator = throw away as they are a pain to service/rebuild. Bosch are easily serviced if all you need is to replace regulator/brush pack. Jap regulator /brushes are internal but Bosch are held in place by two screws at rear of alternator.Diode pack in bosch rarely need replacement but armature slip rings do wear out eventualy.Can check this by looking at them with brush/reg unit removed.If they have a major wear groove you will see it . By the way no rhyme or reason to either bosch or jap at manufacture seems that it was whatever was to hand at time of assembly. My TS Verada had a jap but my TS exec had a Bosch.Bosch can be rebuilt with higher output reg where jap cannot.Difference between most Bosch is the front and rear cases.The internals are the same ie:to make a high output unit you only have to change the end plates. Have taken a 85 amp out of a crummydoor and swapped the end cases of other vehicles and refitted many times.

Just on this comment, Pulled my spare DOHC alternator apart today, in one hour has it all apart, front, rear, and pulley sandblasted, pulley painted, bearings off and slip rings polished, so it's really NOT that hard :P

Blue - What a PITA!!!! 3 weeks for one simple problem...hope you get it sorted out properly