ok so you might have read my other thread but i have an issue and not sure how to get around it... oh and new speakers isnt realy an option. so i got 6x9's and 6" splits. i dont no about the 6"s yet but ill let you know but my 6x9's dont fit they have little bars from the mounting bracket around the top of the cone down to the base, wich makes it not fit through the hole in the parcel shelf. i got a sugestion from a guy to go through the boot and screw them in so the speaker doesnt actualy pass through the parcel self ( ohh and im going for a stealth install so still want the standard covers) but the problem with that is the boot spring is in the way and would hit the speakers. i thought about taking the boot spring out but i still want to have everything standard for when i sell the car later on so i dont want to break it or anything by taking it out. i also thought about nocking up a spacer that is on an angle so the speaker faces away from the kink in the boot spring and mounting it through the boot like suggested, weather this would afect sound quality i have no idea. i spoke to a guy near my work from performance car audio that said he might be able to do it but couldnt garintee anything, he had some people in before with the same style speaker and same problem and couldnt get them in, he said it would cost around 130-140. im in a bit of a pickle.... im coming up to driving for 3 weeks with no sterio what so ever no radio no nothing. the only sort of sound i have had is my ipod and headphones and its driving me crazy, if any 1 could give me any suggestions i would be so thankfull.

cheers guys

that my friend is a big 4$$ speaker hahahaha.
Only suggestion would be to make up some mdf spacers and to keep it flush on top, just make your parcel shelf thicker with either some more thick carpet or some thin mdf, possibly 6 or 9 mm and then carpet over the top of that. Would probably help with any rattles or anything as those 6x9's look like they'd go fairly loud. Just my 2c champ, best of luck

~twiggy~

The rods in the boot are torsion bars which assist in opening the boot - make it seem less heavy to open, so disconnecting them is problematic - and modding them while they are under tension could be "interesting" (possibly a tad dangerous?).

If you had a spacer above the rear shelf metal - would that work, or would that style of spacer need to be so much that the standard grilles would no longer fit? Some members have cut away some of the plastic "bracing"on underside of speaker grilles to allow aftermarket speakers to fit.

Otherwise you could try to mod some MDF spacers yourself that would mount firmly to metal shelf, then step-up over parcel-shelf fabric and blend up to speaker grilles - I can visualise this far better than I could ever produce what I mean (I am "woodwork challenged", more of an ideas man).

Also have a look at a thread by Whiffen about modding a rear shelf in a 2nd Gen, where he has bulkier spacers than I mean - but overall look is a bit similar to what I have in mind.

How much above the tim is the "flange"of the 6x9 sitting when it fouls on the speaker hole?

i spoke to a guy near my work from performance car audio that said he might be able to do it but couldnt garintee anything,

Another professional at work. Sad very sad.

You could make an mdf spacer that slots in under neath the shelf held with some nuts and bolts - angled of course. You could also have a look how big that magnet really is without the protection boot on it...

I am going to have to agree the only way to get those in is to go the spacer path...

Sit the Speakers into the hole.. grab your Stock covers and see if they fit.. over without hitting anything..

Can you get us a pic of them from above.. It may help in solving your issue

it doesnt fit by much more than 10mm ish on the right hand side and 15 is mm on the left

Looking to me like an MDF spacer will get you out of trouble and that the stock grilles will just-maybe fit over the top fine. Remember some folks have take a bit of plastic out of back of speaker grilles when clearances were tight.

Have you browsed the shops or car audio joints for off-the-shelf spacers? There may be something pre-made to get you out of trouble.

Otherwise, you may have to buy a piece of MDF, facemask (*MDF has toxic crap in it, don't work without a mask*), plus jigsaw and drill. make a template of the gap in steel shelf, including the stock mounting holes. Then a template of the speaker frame and its mounting holes.

Only other tip, try to avoid the speaker cage touching the edges of parcel shelf, or insulate with something (good firm rubber strips?) to avoid rattles.

Read some of the excellent audio-install threads in here, some members have really good skills and know tips and techniques to learn from.

Magnat Crosses Chunky Clarion 6x9's off his list of potential 6x9 choices

As I said before Stick the stock grills over them as you see them now.. and check clearances... IF its 15mm out on one side then you are going to need a 15mm spacer to get them to fit..

i had a set of Infinity Kappa 6x9 with the same problem (the Kappas were bigger again) and in the end they had to be returned for a smaller speaker. some times its just a whole lot less of a hassle to bite the bullet and start over

Here's a non-audiophile question, related to BMAN's situation......

Is it necessary/desirable for sound quality to have a spacer "sealing" the speaker cage around the full edge, and "sealing" fully against the stock speaker hole in parcel shelf?
Putting it another way, could you just use a nut or something to elevate the 6x9's at the mounting points, and leave a 10-15mm gap for most of the edge? Would that ruin audio quality?

I'm thinking that everyone uses MDF spacers etc which fuly support/seal the speaker, so there must be a good reason for that, just can't work out why its done that way? Sorry to spam this thread.

Speakers work on compression of air, so if you have the air gap there instead of compressing the air in front of the speaker it just goes to fill in the space behind the speaker where lower pressure is created by the speaker diaphragm moving forward. The same goes when the speaker goes to the return position but in reverse. You can still heard sound, but it will be diminished and likely that you won't have good bass. There would still be partial sealing in the case you described, but it doesn't take much of an air gap to ruin sound quality.

Ported speakers work due to acoustic principles - well, basically it just involves using the correct maths to tune the sound of the speaker. The port can also make the diaphragm of the speaker move more easily. Most ports on speakers aren't done correctly, its one of the many reasons why expensive quality speakers can sound so much better! Well, just think of why the ports involve a tubing and not just a hole with a grill :)

Anyways, its much better to be sealed than unsealed. Sure you can use a nut, but it would be much better to seal around the speaker with silicon or 'no more gaps'! but both can be messy and you don't want to get it on the speaker at all! This is particularly true for the latter, since its an expanding foam you don't want to fill in the speaker!

Thanks for that - I can kinda understand a bit more now. So clearly it is best for OP to have a solid MDF (etc) spacer firmly against the sheet metal, giving the 15mm or so "rise" required to clear the opening, and seating firmly against the speaker cage/flange.

it also gives a lot more support. While the speaker is sitting on the metal frame of the parcel shelf and being supported by the metal frame of the speaker itself, it does still vibrate a hell of a lot, especially with a speaker of that size with quite a bit of weight from the it's bulk. The vibrations can not only damage the parcel shelf and dislodge it from the position it's put in but can also damage the speaker, they're made to make noise not bounce around.
I would suggest just some thin mdf as a spacer for your parcel shelf just to bring the whole speaker up a little. I wouldn't worry too much about angling or anything, mot people, myself included find the sound quality still quite reasonable and the angled glass of the rear window tends to direct the sound towards the front anyway. The only other advice i can give you is to use a couple of washers when you put screws through the mdf. It is quite strong stuff but a small screw can quite easily be pulled through it and even a small washer will help to rectify the problem.

Just to add, remember when mounting speakers the mounting surface needs to be perfectly square.

Shouldn't be an issue if your using MDF spacers and mount them flush to the parcel shelf, but something to keep in mind.

Speakers work on compression of air, so if you have the air gap there instead of compressing the air in front of the speaker it just goes to fill in the space behind the speaker where lower pressure is created by the speaker diaphragm moving forward. The same goes when the speaker goes to the return position but in reverse. You can still heard sound, but it will be diminished and likely that you won't have good bass. There would still be partial sealing in the case you described, but it doesn't take much of an air gap to ruin sound quality.
The difference between having the speaker flat on the metal shelf and raised a few mm by nuts won't be great, as the shelf doesn't allow the speaker to sit air tight on the metal anyway. Bet way to fit them in regardless of whether they drops straight in or not is to use an mdf baffle, in your case 15-16mm if that's how far off the the speaker surround is from the shelf when you drop it in. When you cut the baffle make sure it extends past the edge of the surround of the speaker by at least a few mm too, don't cut it so it finishes with the edge of the surround.

good news guys there in and working had them done sunday afternoon but had no chance to jump on here and let you know. went with spacers dont have the standard covers back on yet but ill get there. im just having amp issues atm so ill have to sort that out kinda soon but other than that its all good

Cool lets see some pics of how you did it Before the covers go on !!

dont have any yet will hopefully get some up tomoro,

I would also love to see some pics!! I reasiled last week that mine are exactly the same! (They dont sit flush, one side is like 1cm in the air). So the stock speaker covers still alomost fit with the mdf baffle thing? My cover hardly fits when the speaker is mounted directly on the metal (Even though its not flat..)... I had to chop some of the plastic off on the inside of the cover....

yer im going to do that too my speakers have alot of bounce lol, im getting my windows tinted hopefully so might not even get around to doing the covers for a while, i only want the cover so no prick pinches my stez lol but with tint how are they going to see it lol lol

i had a set of Infinity Kappa 6x9 with the same problem (the Kappas were bigger again) and in the end they had to be returned for a smaller speaker. some times its just a whole lot less of a hassle to bite the bullet and start over

Thats funny because my Infinity Kappa 6x9 droped in with out a prob.
There must be some change from model to model:wtf:

Yeah some times manufacturers change minor basket sizes between models.. I remember when Pioneers were drop ins... now you have to be model specific

Still no Pics bman ???