Hi all,

Some of the Vic members may know that I've purchased some pretty extreme car audio gear over the past few months.. well I've finally had a free weekend to start installing all of it!!

I don't have any pictures of the speakers... but they're not that important. I have a few pictures of the sub, and the amp is on its way, so will have pics of the final install soon.

I'm hoping to enter this into a few SQ comps. Shouldn't go too badly I hope. And I think I'll test out the SPL of the sub just for ****s and giggles :P

Front Stage
- DDA 6.5 splits

Rear fill
- DD CX6x9's (these have surprisingly good midbass for $180!)

Sub
- 15" RE Audio XXX (yes, I'm the one who purchased this off Mr_bob on the MEA forums)

Amps
- Alpine PDX4.150 (powering the splits and 6x9s)
- US Amps AX2000 (2000wrms @ 4ohm!!)

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b247/MGNTZD/IMG_3629.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b247/MGNTZD/14062009105.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b247/MGNTZD/14062009106.jpg

Oh, and I thought this photo was a tad funny.. just shows how powerful the magnet is!

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b247/MGNTZD/14062009108.jpg

DAMN thats one big ass magnet! Mounting that firing into the boot yes?

How big is the enclosure, litres wise?

looks like a tiny enclosure.. how come you didnt go ported? id think you might want to brace it as well, 18mm MDF wont be solid enough on its own

Holy **** thats a big sub!! Would love to see a vid of your system playing when its all finished!!

Did you end up going 30MM MDF?

looks like a tiny enclosure.. how come you didnt go ported? id think you might want to brace it as well, 18mm MDF wont be solid enough on its own
If he went ported it'd be harder to set it up for SQ. If you want to tune the box for SPL ported would be insane with one of these, but when your looking for a good range that'll play back with good SQ the sealed box will work better.

Not to mention a ported box would take pretty much the entire boot! lol

Edit: That'd be 30mm MDF btw, not 18mm.

I thought you were going to build a brace for the sub sam?

Mate thats going to be some kickass epic shizzle! But seriously if your running a 15 theres no point sealed..and missing out on 3db more! I my self was tempted to go the 2 15"s..would mean 3db more compared to the 2 12"s...but meh not gonna comp it any more so wont bother. FInished one box at a total of 55kg! yay! btw you better re enforce the mofo..your looking at atleast 180 sq.in of volume displacement so a **** load of pressure! Looking forward to hear the ground rumbling though once your done! i rekon set up rite you could pull a nice 145ish db...being a sedan and all.

But it's for SQ, not SP. He won't miss those 3db.

Looks great!

But it's for SQ, not SP. He won't miss those 3db.

Looks great!
Knowing Sam he probably will, but even sealed with 2000w rms pumping through this xxx its going to shake the car front to back regardless. Can't wait to hear it running, those speakers sound epic, especially the 6x9"s, for the price they're killers! The DDA splits are worth every cent they cost too.

looks like a tiny enclosure.. how come you didnt go ported? id think you might want to brace it as well, 18mm MDF wont be solid enough on its own

What you speak of is blasphemy!! lol

EBP will have a major say in what box the sub should be mounted in.

looks good samuel. Does look a very small box! but we all know sam loves small boxes

Fine I'll be the first to ask....

why? lol

Nice so you bought this off Ben?

For those that want to know what one of these weigh - 36Kg....

Personally I would still cross brace the inside, but thats a personal thing - wont count for too much unless you plan on going into comps?

Nice sub...really nice sub.

Ers, yes I bought this off Ben. Very nice guy!

Thanks for the comments guys!

Now the reason I went sealed is because this is essentially an SQ sub, and I want some high impact bass, not just a loud noise. And also, if I went ported, the minimum size I could go would be 3.2cuft! This box is pretty small (2.1cuft), but I could alter the height as it would hit the bolt that comes through the parcel shelf.. the one that holds down the middle seat belt assembly.

Oh, and I'm having it firing into the cabin. I've bought a black light which I'll have shining onto the cone so the XXX lights up nice and bright. So it should look awesome when you open the ski port at night!

I've used 25mm MDF and I have reinforced it inside.. it's just that the pic was taken while the sub box was 'in progess'. So it should be plenty strong enough now!

I am going to be mounting the amp to the back of the sub box (I know that sounds bad) but I have also attached another piece of 25mm MDF to the box to minimise vibrations. I wanted the amp and sub to be easily removable if I need to use all the boot space for something. And then to finish it off, I'll put a beauty board across the front of the amp to make it look a bit more pro.

Does anyone have any ideas on what I could do for lighting up the boot?? You'll pretty much open the boot and see a big **** amp... so I was thinking of maybe some strobes in each corner, and then red or just plain white LED's shining straight down on the amp.

Anyway, I'll take a few more pics this coming weekend. Hopefully I can get everything finished and have it up and running!! woo!!

that sub is not big at all...

lol cant wait to here this thing fire up man

that sub is not big at all...

lol cant wait to here this thing fire up man

pretty sure it's taller than you :P

pretty sure it's taller than you :P

dont be racist man!

dont be racist man!

lol next thing you know my sub will be physically abusing ashneel!

oh, does anyone have any good suggestions as to how I should hold this sub box down?? I'm thinking some thick metal brackets, but that means every time i want to take the sub box out, i need to take off the brackets...

Ahhh, yes another person with a RE XXX. Are they BEASTY or what? I have the 10" version, which was only produced based on the previous model of XXX. You have the updated version though. Ben is a great guy indeed. My 10" is 30 kgs :D

As for the enclosure, I have mine in a sealed enclosure also, about 1 cu.ft however I think it still needs more dampening...make it slightly smaller. I'm feeding my 10" with 3kwrms of power though...you need more than 2kwrms for that 15" one!!! :D

Awesome subs, I prefer them over the ID MAX v3 and JL W6.

Oh, btw, do you have a 3rd gen? If you do, there are two metal bracket things that used to secure the boot liner carpet/panel. There are already screw/mounting holes there, so you can secure your box using those holes from the inside of the sub box.

Definately bolt that sub down.....

Make some bolt holes - 1/2" bolts, split washers, nylon nuts.....

Yes its a pain in the backside - but you dont want this sub moving lol

RE Audio gear really is engineered beyond belief. My RE XXX 6.5 Splits - ran them on 180wrms, rated at 150wrms - I reckon another 20-30wrms they still would have been fine.

Damn nice sub......sigh....

oh, does anyone have any good suggestions as to how I should hold this sub box down?? I'm thinking some thick metal brackets, but that means every time i want to take the sub box out, i need to take off the brackets...
You could strap it down? Amin did that with his Kickers that are pretty bloody heavy and we all know how he drives, and they don't move an inch. Easy for him to remove too.

You could strap it down? Amin did that with his Kickers that are pretty bloody heavy and we all know how he drives, and they don't move an inch. Easy for him to remove too.
Don't forget that the excursion between this XXX thing and kickers are completely different

As ers said, brackets, bolts, split washers etc.

Oh, btw, do you have a 3rd gen? If you do, there are two metal bracket things that used to secure the boot liner carpet/panel. There are already screw/mounting holes there, so you can secure your box using those holes from the inside of the sub box.

I don't really want to have to secure my sub box from the inside as it will be a bit of a pain taking the thing out if i need more boot space!

Looks like I'll stick with the bolts and brackets idea. I'll just make sure they're big thick brackets, as I snapped my last ones straight through when I had the DD 3512.

If you made the floor of the sub box oversized by 2" each direction, you could bolt the floor of the sub box down instead of brackets - using larger washers on the MDF to spread the load, and split washers + nylon nuts under the car.

Alternatively there is another option - nutserts - bit more fiddly, but you only need washers/bolts - and then you have the thread put into the boot floor - easy to remove the sub :)

man i got my self subs strap from autobarn arround $15, they are awesome, my sub is 37 kgs and it doesnt move at all and very easy to remove just unclip n here u go, i'll see if i got some photos if not i'll take some just 4 u Sam :P
the boot instal is crazy man cant wait untill u finish hope u got some earmuff with the sub coz u gonna deaf ur self lol but u still need a ralliart grill :gfight:

Don't forget that the excursion between this XXX thing and kickers are completely different

As ers said, brackets, bolts, split washers etc.
You just get straps that are strong enough to handle the weight of the box. Easy. Never said they had to be the same straps, but the general idea is a good one that's easy to manage.

Im a bolt person :P

Plus you dont buy a sub like this if you like boot space :P

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk253/My_Album_13/DSCF0171.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk253/My_Album_13/DSCF0172.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk253/My_Album_13/DSCF0173.jpg

these are 10s but not sure if the 15 fits under the parcel shelf, the 12 fits for sure as i got a single 12 b4 those

i have a suggestion as to how to hold it down.. though not sure if some may like my idea

my sub (though in a small box) is velcro'ed down onto the carpet in my boot... hasn't moved an inch at all, even my mate has his sub, which is a pre-enclosed MTX sub (one of those ex-comp subs btw), velcro'ed down in his boot- weighs about 5kg or there abouts and it doesn't move either.. actually it's a ***** of a job to get it out of his boot! the whole carpet has to come out just to get the sub out

I thought of using velcro, but then ditched that idea as the weight of this sub box will just make the carpet fold back on itself!

I'm kinda liking the straps idea Amin... But what did they use to secure it to the chassis?? They would stop front/back movement.. then I'm thinking of having a few screws on the beauty board which will attach to the sub box/amp, and this would stop any sideways movement.

I have another query as well... With this sub and my 6x9s sharing the same enclosure (the boot), would my sub potentially damage the cones of the 6x9s from all the pressure?

I have another query as well... With this sub and my 6x9s sharing the same enclosure (the boot), would my sub potentially damage the cones of the 6x9s from all the pressure?
i was about to say "that's stupid man"

but I reckon it could if they are included in the same enclosure, i was watching some youtube vids of this sub, i reckon you could cause damage to 6x9 cones lol

If the 6x9s and sub are playing similar frequencies yes this could be an issue. Example if the sub and 6x9 are playing 80-100hz at the same time (around the crossover frequency), not only do the 6x9 have their own magnet moving the speaker but the pressure from the sub will move it even more causing distortion and damage. I reckon this would only be a problem at higher volumes which im sure you are going to be using this stereo system for. ;)

If you can isolate them not only will you protect your 6x9s but you will increase the sound quality slightly.

you should sell your 6x9's to me then there is no more issue :P

http://www.2made.com/custom-images/6x9box.jpg

God would those things look ugly in a 3rd gen, they wouldn't even sit flat lol

Umm, there's no need to bother with the 6x9s. Bckseat passengers don't get the luxury of high frequencies when they get to enjoy the ear-bleeding thump of the sub. I've never 'speakers' in the rear. Just take out the 6x9s, let the boot vent ot the cabin some more.l

You can screw things into that 'beauty panel' which should be screwed into the boot floor itself (preferrably not by drilling new holes).
Another Idea I just thought of was if you remove the parcel shelf trim, and if your sub box was high enough to be very close to the parcel shelf, you could secure your sub box from the top (through holes in parcel shelf) and on the bottom, via the beauty panel.

I think you need a pair of Z1a's............................pleeeeeeeeasssee?

Umm, there's no need to bother with the 6x9s. Bckseat passengers don't get the luxury of high frequencies when they get to enjoy the ear-bleeding thump of the sub. I've never 'speakers' in the rear. Just take out the 6x9s, let the boot vent ot the cabin some more.
I disagree, I think you can create a better sound stage with speakers in the rear also. Having listened to Sam's stereo plenty of times before, his is a great example of that. It sounds better with the rear speakers than with just the front.

I disagree, I think you can create a better sound stage with speakers in the rear also. Having listened to Sam's stereo plenty of times before, his is a great example of that. It sounds better with the rear speakers than with just the front.

Oh god, the soundstage debate. Pod vs panel filter debate much? lol, sorry, just stirring here.

It's really up to personal preference. I've never put much thought into having rear fill. It should really ONLY be rear FILL, not to drag your soundstage backwards, or distract you from the front stage. I've recently discovered trying to set a crossover correctly on your sub, and getting rid of all rattles/vibrations in the boot and parcel shelf is quite difficult. Sub-bass or not, I can tell where the sub is...maybe it's psychological? haha.

Umm, there's no need to bother with the 6x9s. Bckseat passengers don't get the luxury of high frequencies when they get to enjoy the ear-bleeding thump of the sub. I've never 'speakers' in the rear. Just take out the 6x9s, let the boot vent ot the cabin some more.l

You can screw things into that 'beauty panel' which should be screwed into the boot floor itself (preferrably not by drilling new holes).
Another Idea I just thought of was if you remove the parcel shelf trim, and if your sub box was high enough to be very close to the parcel shelf, you could secure your sub box from the top (through holes in parcel shelf) and on the bottom, via the beauty panel.

I think you need a pair of Z1a's............................pleeeeeeeeasssee?

lol I think I'll see how I go with the AX2000 before putting more power into it!

I reckon I possibly could secure it through the parcel shelf.. I'll have a check when I get home :)

For your 6*9's, your HPF should be set somewhere around 200Hz....

With that sub, yes I think you can cause damage - if it can make a roof flow like jello, it can destroy a 6*9.

For your 6*9's, your HPF should be set somewhere around 200Hz....

With that sub, yes I think you can cause damage - if it can make a roof flow like jello, it can destroy a 6*9.

200Hz?!? At the moment, without the sub, the front splits and 6x9s are high passed somewhere between 50-60hz.. if I high pass the 6x9s to 200hz, then won't I lose all midbass from them? or is that the point you're getting at... and then get the splits to do the work down to 60Hz, then have the sub come in around 60hz too?

200Hz?!? At the moment, without the sub, the front splits and 6x9s are high passed somewhere between 50-60hz.. if I high pass the 6x9s to 200hz, then won't I lose all midbass from them? or is that the point you're getting at... and then get the splits to do the work down to 60Hz, then have the sub come in around 60hz too?
mid bass is around the 200hz mark so you wont loose out on much

anyway, as i said to you on msn, whether you like it or not, the 6x9s will resonate frequencies lower than 80hz due to the pressure of the sub.

I'd be tuning the sub to anywhere between 80-100hz, but since you are firing it directly into the cabin just stick to 80hz ;)

200Hz?!? At the moment, without the sub, the front splits and 6x9s are high passed somewhere between 50-60hz.. if I high pass the 6x9s to 200hz, then won't I lose all midbass from them? or is that the point you're getting at... and then get the splits to do the work down to 60Hz, then have the sub come in around 60hz too?

Wll, there's no hard and fast rule here. You could find loose guidelines or rules of thumb, but it's up to you at the end of the day. Are you running your splits active or passive? I'm guessing they're passive, which doesn't give you much flexibility if you want to change crossover points and slopes. Having your splits play down to 60Hz will definately hinder how loud you'll be able to turn them up, due to excursion limitations. Door prep is also very important for getting good mid-bass. I've found getting good midbass to be a bit of a challenge at times.

Anyways, if your headunit can handle it, I would suggest running your splits fully active off your Alpine 4ch amp. Bypass all the filters on the Alpine amp and control everything from your headunit...but like I said, do it only if your headunit can support it. I'm a fan of Alpine headunits btw...haha.

Wll, there's no hard and fast rule here. You could find loose guidelines or rules of thumb, but it's up to you at the end of the day. Are you running your splits active or passive? I'm guessing they're passive, which doesn't give you much flexibility if you want to change crossover points and slopes. Having your splits play down to 60Hz will definately hinder how loud you'll be able to turn them up, due to excursion limitations. Door prep is also very important for getting good mid-bass. I've found getting good midbass to be a bit of a challenge at times.

Anyways, if your headunit can handle it, I would suggest running your splits fully active off your Alpine 4ch amp. Bypass all the filters on the Alpine amp and control everything from your headunit...but like I said, do it only if your headunit can support it. I'm a fan of Alpine headunits btw...haha.

haha, yeah well my headunit is pretty good, however you can only adjust the crossover points in increments of 40hz.. so I think I'll stick to a passive setup for now and just play around with the HPF on the amp. They still play incredibly loud even when tuned down to 50hz!!

And i agree with door prep as well! definitely makes a difference to midbass. I'm thinking of adding more dynamat to the inner door skin... but I think deadening the boot is priority for now :P

I added carpet underlay to my door cards on the inside, made a huge difference in terms of sound.

Any idea how much 1 of the Re-Audio XXX 12" sub costs and how many watts it is?? o and how much it would be to get shipped to Adelaide, South Australia

200Hz?!? At the moment, without the sub, the front splits and 6x9s are high passed somewhere between 50-60hz.. if I high pass the 6x9s to 200hz, then won't I lose all midbass from them? or is that the point you're getting at... and then get the splits to do the work down to 60Hz, then have the sub come in around 60hz too?

(just keep in mind I said 200Hz, even 160Hz for the 6*9's....not the fronts)

Sub bass is 1Hz - 50Hz
Midbass is 50Hz - 250Hz

Now, im not having a go but this will start to sound like I've got my head up my **** (eh I probably do lol)

Yes you will lose midbass from your 6*9's.....but whats the problem with that? Its your rear speakers, fck the rear passengers - your stereo is to please you, not them.

*yes to some people rear fill is important, not arguing that, in some stereo's even I like rear fill, for the record I dont have rear speakers anymore*

Now - the midbass, where abouts were we? Ah yes, losing midbass, yup - you'll lose it from your rear speakers, not your front. The issue with running your 6*9's at low frequencies (apart from 6*9's being the wrong shape :P) is phase cancellation - granted with an RE sub its unlikely to have MUCH of an affect - but it does have an affect (which will be either amplified or nullified depending on what your crossover point is for the 6*9's, and just how loud you play them).

Moving along - without meaning to be an SQ elitist prick, the chances of you missing 'midbass' from your 6*9's when you have a 2Kw 15" RE audio sub with 108mm of peak to peak excursion is highly unlikely, your mid bass will possibly be slightly muddy from that sub (IMO....I could be wrong).

How well your front speakers create midbass is up to you, and how well you prepare your front doors - many layers of sound deadening, covering service holes, more layers of sound deadening......

Eh think that covers it.

P.S Nothing wrong with playing your fronts at 63Hz.....I generally find having it at 63Hz with a 2nd order bandpass HPF on the fronts, and a 3rd order bandpass LPF on the sub works well. Brings the sub a bit more forward.

any idea how much 1 of the re-audio xxx 12" sub costs and how many watts it is?? O and how much it would be to get shipped to adelaide, south australia

if you gotta ask they are too much

Any idea how much 1 of the Re-Audio XXX 12" sub costs and how many watts it is?? o and how much it would be to get shipped to Adelaide, South Australia

the 12" retails at $2k, and shipping would be another $150-200...

(just keep in mind I said 200Hz, even 160Hz for the 6*9's....not the fronts)

Sub bass is 1Hz - 50Hz
Midbass is 50Hz - 250Hz

Now, im not having a go but this will start to sound like I've got my head up my **** (eh I probably do lol)

Yes you will lose midbass from your 6*9's.....but whats the problem with that? Its your rear speakers, fck the rear passengers - your stereo is to please you, not them.

*yes to some people rear fill is important, not arguing that, in some stereo's even I like rear fill, for the record I dont have rear speakers anymore*

Now - the midbass, where abouts were we? Ah yes, losing midbass, yup - you'll lose it from your rear speakers, not your front. The issue with running your 6*9's at low frequencies (apart from 6*9's being the wrong shape :P) is phase cancellation - granted with an RE sub its unlikely to have MUCH of an affect - but it does have an affect (which will be either amplified or nullified depending on what your crossover point is for the 6*9's, and just how loud you play them).

Moving along - without meaning to be an SQ elitist prick, the chances of you missing 'midbass' from your 6*9's when you have a 2Kw 15" RE audio sub with 108mm of peak to peak excursion is highly unlikely, your mid bass will possibly be slightly muddy from that sub (IMO....I could be wrong).

How well your front speakers create midbass is up to you, and how well you prepare your front doors - many layers of sound deadening, covering service holes, more layers of sound deadening......

Eh think that covers it.

P.S Nothing wrong with playing your fronts at 63Hz.....I generally find having it at 63Hz with a 2nd order bandpass HPF on the fronts, and a 3rd order bandpass LPF on the sub works well. Brings the sub a bit more forward.

lol i have to agree with you on the 6x9s front... i doubt i'm gonna miss midbass when i have a sub like this! so by the sounds of things, I should probably set it up like this:

- HPF on the fronts at ~60Hz
- HPF on the rears at ~160Hz
- LPF on the sub at ~70hz (allowing for a 10hz overlap)

Does that sound about right?

Sounds about right, wouldnt stress too much about trying to set the LPF at 70Hz if you cant, amps use (mostly) a 2nd order bandpass for the LPF/HPF - which is 12dB an octave, so there will still be a decent overlap.

Sounds about right, wouldnt stress too much about trying to set the LPF at 70Hz if you cant, amps use (mostly) a 2nd order bandpass for the LPF/HPF - which is 12dB an octave, so there will still be a decent overlap.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't a 18 or 24dB octave better for a sub?

This car will be very close to 2000kg with all the stereo stuff in it. Holy moly that is a nice sub though.... :cool:

Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't a 18 or 24dB octave better for a sub?

Thats what I run, however you he said he wants to tune it via the amp - which most use a 12dB/octave Xover. Not sure on his alpine deck if you can adjust the slope?

Thats what I run, however you he said he wants to tune it via the amp - which most use a 12dB/octave Xover. Not sure on his alpine deck if you can adjust the slope?
Its a Clarion deck, I don't think they had slope adjustment from memory though.

Alpine IMPRINT FTW! :P

My previous enclosure was 32mm mdf, with fiberglass reinforcement inside and bracing. Was around 25kgs alone....but yeah, definately don't skinp on box construction.

Alpine IMPRINT FTW! :P

My previous enclosure was 32mm mdf, with fiberglass reinforcement inside and bracing. Was around 25kgs alone....but yeah, definately don't skip on box construction.

Well now that the box is finished and the sub is installed, it seems to be pretty unbreakable. Even with 25mm MDF.

Yeah I'm probably thinking I should've gone Alpine with the IMPRINT software... but I still think my Clarion deck will suffice. From the specs it says:

"The cut-off frequency, filter, slope and phase can be adjusted for each band, enabling precise sound tuning."

It also has a parametric EQ so I can adjust the frequency curve. So I'm guessing this is the stuff you're referring to Ers??

Do people recommend using filters/crossovers, etc from the headunit rather than the amp?? Is there much difference in sound quality using one compared to the other?

Well now that the box is finished and the sub is installed, it seems to be pretty unbreakable. Even with 25mm MDF.

Yeah I'm probably thinking I should've gone Alpine with the IMPRINT software... but I still think my Clarion deck will suffice. From the specs it says:

"The cut-off frequency, filter, slope and phase can be adjusted for each band, enabling precise sound tuning."

It also has a parametric EQ so I can adjust the frequency curve. So I'm guessing this is the stuff you're referring to Ers??

Do people recommend using filters/crossovers, etc from the headunit rather than the amp?? Is there much difference in sound quality using one compared to the other?

Parametric vs Graphic EQ....hmm. Graphic EQs are much more straight forward to set, but I've found parametric to be far more flexible, but could be devastating in the wrong hands. It's been nearly 3 weeks since I finished my install, and still fumbling with the EQ settings occasionally. What can I say? Perfectionism is a biatch. I guess with most golden-silk SQ purists, they'd say never to boost any freq but only cut when using EQs. I don't think you'll notice a difference between using the crossovers on the amp or headunit. It will come down to what suits your application more.

Parametric EQ is a nice tool, but it should be used alongside an RTA, and damn good ears lol

MGNTZD - I was talking about the filters/slope on the deck. The reason I prefer to use the deck rather than the amp is:

- unless the amp is marked really well, its hard to tell exactly what frequency the LPF/HPF is set at
- i like the comfort of sitting in my seat and adjusting things, rather than stepping outside the car, fiddling with the amp, then sitting down, listening and repeating.

SQ difference? Doubt there's much, but if you can adjust the slope on your deck (12db/18db/24db per octave) its a lot better for tuning.

I generally set the amp at around 100Hz LPF for the sub as a safeguard, and 40hz HPF for the fronts. The rest is handled by my deck.

pretty sure it's taller than you :P

cries in the corner

not my fault im short lol

but I think deadening the boot is priority for now :P[/QUOTE]


and probably ur roof to mate
that beast is gonna rattle every thing

Something in the order of two layers in the boot (which is about 2 bulk packs) plus 2 bulk packs through the rest of the car....

Thats around $900-$1000 for enough sound deadening (two mega packs at $500ea)

that is ridiculous. I will see how 1 layer goes for now.. I can always add more later.

Can't wait to chuck in the amp on the weekend!! then I will actually have this massive sub moving!!

Ok, so the sub is now wired up!! I still need to sound deaden the boot lid, and make a beauty wall to cover up the sub box... I also ended up buying some thick brackets and mounted them on either side of the sub box to hold it in place.

I have the gains on low atm and it's still quite impressive, even though I have to 'wear it in'... Does anyone know how long it will take before I can start to turn the gains up?? 50-100 hours??

anyway, here are some pics of the progress.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b247/MGNTZD/21062009109.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b247/MGNTZD/21062009117.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b247/MGNTZD/21062009114.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b247/MGNTZD/21062009115.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b247/MGNTZD/21062009116.jpg

Worst boot install evar. Way to neat.

Edit: Can't wait to hear this thing.

thats a nice and sterdy looking box, must weigh a ton lol

thats a nice and sterdy looking box, must weigh a ton lol

lol that would be an understatement... definitely a two person job lifting it in and out of the boot!

Still not sure what to do with the rest of the lighting...

Not half bad - love the matching blue wiring dude :P

Running the Sub in, till the rubber softens lol

Ummm, as a rule of thumb, generally around 10hrs should be enough to start turning your gains up. Rubber softens progressively over around 50hours of play. Some home audio sub manufacturers say 100hours before its fully run in.

For my subs, I run them in for 10hours or so up to about half volume. Then turn the gains up a tad, week after (or around 5hours) give it a good tune and turn the gains up a fair whack more.

After this you may even turn the gains down in the coming weeks, as the sub loosens more you may gain a decible or two on the lower notes.

P.S If ANYONE says running a mechanical machine in is a wank, then go jump.

WOW! That's a big sub =O

Are you happy with the Sound of a forward firing sub ??? I have always preferred rear loaded as the Sub fires into a Big empty boot as a 2nd enclosure...
Rather then firing into a relatively leaky cabin..

Not half bad - love the matching blue wiring dude :P

Running the Sub in, till the rubber softens lol

Ummm, as a rule of thumb, generally around 10hrs should be enough to start turning your gains up. Rubber softens progressively over around 50hours of play. Some home audio sub manufacturers say 100hours before its fully run in.

For my subs, I run them in for 10hours or so up to about half volume. Then turn the gains up a tad, week after (or around 5hours) give it a good tune and turn the gains up a fair whack more.

After this you may even turn the gains down in the coming weeks, as the sub loosens more you may gain a decible or two on the lower notes.

P.S If ANYONE says running a mechanical machine in is a wank, then go jump.

Oh nice! So it looks like I won't have to wait too long before I can turn the gains up!

Another question... You can adjust the subwoofer output on the headunit from -6 to +6. Should this just remain at 0?? Or is it ok to turn it up a bit more? Because I'm guessing this sorta takes on the roll of the gains on the amp.. so setting it to +6 would kinda be pointless if i adjust the gains right on the amp, yeah?

Are you happy with the Sound of a forward firing sub ??? I have always preferred rear loaded as the Sub fires into a Big empty boot as a 2nd enclosure...
Rather then firing into a relatively leaky cabin..

Well so far so good! it sounds very punchy. But once i run the sub in a bit more, I might try rear loading it to see how much of a difference it makes.

Oh nice! So it looks like I won't have to wait too long before I can turn the gains up!

Another question... You can adjust the subwoofer output on the headunit from -6 to +6. Should this just remain at 0?? Or is it ok to turn it up a bit more? Because I'm guessing this sorta takes on the roll of the gains on the amp.. so setting it to +6 would kinda be pointless if i adjust the gains right on the amp, yeah?

Its a seperate volume control for the sub.

You leave it on 0 for tuning, tune with a bass heavy track. Then when playing music you use the Sub volume control to adjust, as you might get a track thats really bassy and want to turn it down or vice versa

Sounds very good so far, had a listen last night and I'm honeslty surprised at how much bass there is considering how low the gains are. Gonna be sweet when its all tuned up!

Nice work mate. Well done.