Hey guys,

Just wondering if anyone has got custom springs made in the Melbourne area for a TF?
Im chasing rear springs because obviously kings only made a low,

Anyone done this before? How long does it take the shop to make the springs? Price... etc..

Any help would be a huge help!

i got some superlows which i think were made by lovells? they arent in yet

kmac make custom springs, mine in the cressida were $270 for the rears i think... something like that

Better off getting the rears reset, $60ea roughly from memory, that's what I'll be doing.

Reset springs will throw out the spring rates so car will handle like poo. And they keep sagging over time. Mate did the same to his VN a few years ago and regretted doing it.

Reset springs will throw out the spring rates so car will handle like poo. And they keep sagging over time. Mate did the same to his VN a few years ago and regretted doing it.
wollongongVerada did so to his Lovells (same setup as whats in my car now) and he hasn't had a single issue.

Reset as in compressed?

wollongongVerada did so to his Lovells (same setup as whats in my car now) and he hasn't had a single issue.
Yet ;)

Yet ;)
Well its been like a year hasn't it? lol

If you get custom made springs, at least you can make them a bit stiffer. I'd be worried that if you compressed a set of Lows they'd be too prone to hitting the bump stops.

Like liverpool_rule_88 said, Kmac will do custom springs. I've heard that King Springs will make you up a custom made set too, although I've never looked into it.


i got some superlows which i think were made by lovells? they arent in yet
The Lovell Superlows are only about 10mm lower than the King Lows IIRC. If you're looking for a well and truly 'dumped' look you may as well go straight for something custom IMO.

Im sure Lovells made a super low, Anyone know parts numbers for front and rears for a 98 TF?

Gunna order them in at my local bursons to hopefully get the ass down

Better off getting the rears reset, $60ea roughly from memory, that's what I'll be doing.

Rhys... You will have an LPG tank in the back of your car. You will need all the spring rate you can get. Its like an extra 80kg at least over the rear axle. That's why i went SP's... I'm not partial to a car with bottoming suspension!

As an example i had the springs reset on my 380. I asked for the fronts to be reset 1.5 inches lower and the rear 1 inch. It ended up the fronts sat 2.5 and the rear 2. Remember they keep the same spring rate as std so it will feel really soft and punch the bumpstops if you hit anything over the thickness of a matchstick.

I have been told if you drop you ride height 20% you need a 20% increase in spring rate to compensate. And a shocker that will be able to cope with a tighter spring.

The custom springs I run in my setup were ordered from King springs. I can definantely report no problems here. Specific rates and heights for both front and rear were specified, the end product was right on the money.

For reference, I was told off-the-shelf King Lows for 3rd-gen magnas are 185lbs at the front, and roughly the same at the rear (don't have the exact figure). From memory the OEM Mitsu springs are around the 120-140lbs mark, depending on the model (e.g sports/vrx/ralliart slightly stiffer)

IMO if you live somewhere like Sydney, King-Lows are the way to go for 99% of street applications..good compromise between compliance, control and ride height...and works reasonably well with the common budget aftermarket dampers.

My setup runs over double the rates of the King-Lows, and while brilliant on the track, some would probably find the ride utterly intolerable on Sydney streets.

Choose your rates and ride height wisely when ordering custom springs, as you do not have the benefit of manufacturer RnD that has been done with off-the-shelf items.

Also, if you want your suspension to work properly your dampers need to be suited to the spring you are using. E.g I found KYBs seemed to work fairly well with King-Lows, but for any spring significantly stiffer you need to look at getting a decent damper valved specifically for the application (e.g koni yellows come off the shelf for magnas and can be revalved readily).


I have been told if you drop you ride height 20% you need a 20% increase in spring rate to compensate. And a shocker that will be able to cope with a tighter spring.

It aint that simple but you are on the right track. The shorter the spring, the less travel you have, therefore the easier you will bottom-out. With the sort of spring rates most people are going to run in a street car, IMO it's generally unwise to drop the ride height more than say 30mm.

Unless your setup is specifically designed for it, a dramatic drop in ride height introduces a whole bunch of problems for a magna... e.g bottoming out, scraping/hitting objects, bad static and dynamic suspension geometry, poor handling due to roll-centre problems etc.