Hi Everyone

I know there are a lot of threads on at least Idle Control and Timing Belts, and i have searched around a lot for info but i have a couple of specific questions. I have a 99 TH 3.5ltr and want to change do the belt and tidy up a few things.

Firstly:

When doing the timing belt, it states you need a special tool to hold 5nm of ft/lbs or something onto it when doing the belt - is this really necessary? I was under the impression the tensioners on these were just springs, so surely i could just compress it, change the belt and then release it. Someone on a forum here suggested that for an earlier model - you can take the tensioner off, put it in a vice, put some wire in it to stop it opening back up - install everything then release the tensioner - would this work on the 3.5 models. Also - if i buy the full kit with a NEW tensioner, would it be held compressed in the box, with a release mechanism for after its installed?

Secondly:

Its a TH WAGON (hence the username) and the rear handbrakes are noisy and worn down. I was going to just change the pads inside the disk, as i've previously changed all 4 discs and pads recently without issue - but with the wagon handbrakes it doesn't look like i can get the handbrake pads off as they are basically a circle of metal with only a small relief for the actuator. Has anyone done these on a wagon before and has some advice? The Haynes manual i have has instructions for the sedan, and you basically remove the read gaurd and take them out that way - as they won't come forward over the hub, but that doesn't help me as I can't figure out how to do that on the wagon :(

Thirdly:

The 3.5 Idles around 450-500 when in gear at the lights, and consequently shudders a bit. I've removed and cleaned out the TB, I have cleaned and check the ISCV an it seems OK, I have replaced the leads and plugs and distributor cap - i'm starting to run out of ideas. Is it possible to adjust the idles speed without the MUP II computer interface (or whatever its callled) - or will i have to take it to someone - if so, can anyone recomend someone that won't shaft me on the price for what i assume will be a 5 min job once connected up to the computer.

Thanks a lot for any advice you guys can give me.

Hello THe wagon
the special tool for the adjustable tensioner pulley works in an anti clockwise direction whilst the pulley locking bolt tightens in a clockwise direction. In short you need the special tool to hold the tensioner pulley in the "tensioned" position whilst doing up the retaining bolt.
The 3.5 engines use a hydraulic tensioner. Replacement tensioners come with a pin which is already inserted through the housing and the piston. The pin is removed once the tensioner is fitted.

I found the rear disc rotors off a TW sedan fitted on a TJ wagon with no problems. The handbrake linings were slightly different ie: more braking surface material on one than the other but everything adjusted up OK. Didn't need to take the hand brake shoes off so not sure what the go is there. Once you start pulling it apart the manual will probably make more sense.

For the idling try disconnecting the battery for a minute (make sure you have your radio code available beforehand). Reconnect battery then start angine and allow to idle for 10 minutes in park whilst the ECU re learns.

If you try the search function in tech talk you will find more info.

Cheers

idle: try cleaning your throttle housing and idle control motor with carbie cleaner... this works for me every time without the annoying disconnect

The special tool is not only for "holding tension" on the pulley when you tighten the bolt but is most importantly there in order to get the CORRECT tension on the belt when you re assembe it all. Getting this all wrong can mean that you end up with bits of valve stuck in your pistons

For the record BOTH 3.0 and 3.5 come with the hydrolic tensioner as well, both are the identical unit, in fact the only difference in the entire kit is the actual belt itself.

Generally the kits do nto come with the hydrolic ttensioner and rarely will you need to replace one

Once you have done up the belt, if you have used the correct tension on the tension wrench, you should be able to freely remove the pin with no resistance.


Rear handbrake, these are a horseshoe design, you need to drop them off the adjuster and then comes the fun part, you need to spread them over the centre hub and drop them out of the bottom. Is a lot of fun doing these


Throttle body, go to Mits and get the ISC "O" ring and the air valve gasket, take the TB off and take it all apart, (do not adjust the locked idle stop screw though) and give it a real good clean. When you put it all back to gether also make sure all your breathers are nice and clean incuding the ones in the rocker cover and the inlet manifold as this will reduce the amount of gunk getting pushed into the intake pipe

The special tool is not only for "holding tension" on the pulley when you tighten the bolt but is most importantly there in order to get the CORRECT tension on the belt when you re assembe it all. Getting this all wrong can mean that you end up with bits of valve stuck in your pistons

Throttle body, go to Mits and get the ISC "O" ring and the air valve gasket, take the TB off and take it all apart, (do not adjust the locked idle stop screw though) and give it a real good clean. When you put it all back to gether also make sure all your breathers are nice and clean incuding the ones in the rocker cover and the inlet manifold as this will reduce the amount of gunk getting pushed into the intake pipe

OK, so if i don't have the mitsubishi special tool for the timing belt is there something else i can use? What exactly is that tool?

Also, TB cleaning etc has all been done, including the ISC O-rings and gaskets - is there any way to change the idle level on the computer without taking it to ultratune etc? The air correcting screws ahve been buggered around with at some point too - but changing them seems to do stuff all so i put them back to where they were.

I get a pm every month or so re idle in TH and earlier cars. The PCV valve on the front tappet cover is the culprit a lot of the time. Renew or clean it up for improved idle stability. You can increase the idle using the idle control screw - screw it outwards to increase rpm. Additionally your ISC may be shot.

I get a pm every month or so re idle in TH and earlier cars. The PCV valve on the front tappet cover is the culprit a lot of the time. Renew or clean it up for improved idle stability. You can increase the idle using the idle control screw - screw it outwards to increase rpm. Additionally your ISC may be shot.

Thanks - i'll try cleaning out the PCV valve - whats the best way to clean it? Also - I thought TH onwards had no idle screw, and had idle control on the computer?

Anyone else, ie MadMagna, have any idea what the Mistu special tool for the Timing Belt is? Or if i can just use a standard tourque wrench of something to apply the 5nm required?

You can just buy a new PCV from your local auto parts store, from memory it cost me $2.95....

The tool can be made if you require it, you need this tool to use the torque wrench on the idler pulley

Never used the tool or a torque wrench in doing timing belts. I have had no issues. Then again, I am awesome.

If you have seen the the replacement Timing Belt Kit, you will notice that one of the idler rollers has the mounting-bolt hole off-centre - so when the bolt is mounted but not tight, then whole roller is an eccentric cam.

There are two tiny holes in the centre of this roller, and pegs on the tensioning device fit into those holes and a torque meter registers how much force is applied to twist the roller on its off-centre bolt - thus tensioning the Timing Belt.

When you have applied correct tension, you tighten the mounting bolt (using your third and fourth arms, probably).

If you have got it correct, the retaining pin which has held the hydraulic tensioner back against its spring pressure can be removed easily - the tension on the belt is meant to be enough to JUST take the tension off that pin. You can use a piece of wire or small allen-key to hold the hydraulic tensioner back.

All this happens in the dark and narrow confines of the front of the engine - just under the Drivers side engine mount. The mount, and drive-belt brackets etc have been all removed - your engine is supported by trolley-jack. You are being very careful not to stuff-up your crank-angle sensor. ....... I kid you not - it suited me to drive a car to Melb to have Mal (MadMagna) do one for me, and I fully intend to take two more cars down to him. Granted, I used to live in Melb so an excuse to visit friends and crash with them is welcome, BUT its also great to have someone decent who knows what they are doing working on my car.

Oh, and members in here have previously told me that the genuine belt-tension tool is about $180- from Mitsubishi. Its a kind of dial-guage tension wrench with the two little pins req'd to engage the holes on the roller..... as far as I know, it can't be adapted for use as normal tension wrench etc (happy to be corrected, cos I know some members do own this tool).

Cheers guys - a big thanks to everyone that commented. I'm goign to have a crack at the timing belt and timing cover seals this weekend and see how I go - fingers crossed it all comes together without a hitch!

If also clear out the PCV valve and associated hoses, and if i get time i might even tackle the rear handbrake pads - again thanks everyone for the information. If anyone has any other tips just let me know.

Cam