I have a 1990 2.5 auto magna, the auto goes to what seems to be power mode, holding revs longer, changing down at higher speeds, this happens when traveling at higher speeds than the 50 to 60 km. I have swapped the computer for a known working unit, the same still happens. I have found that turning the motor off, then restarting it put's it back to normal till once again higher speeds are reached. Any one got any idea's

Do you have an overdrive button at all? Is it engaged?

info ...


if it is a TP model it should have
a power/economy switch
the O/D button should be off under 70 km

is the car carby or efi

2555cc but they call it 2.6

Do you have an overdrive button at all? Is it engaged?

Yes, I think the previous owner burnt out the O/D, the motor just rev's up and goes nowhere.
Hoppy

2555cc but they call it 2.6

I'll remember that.
Hoppy

info ...


if it is a TP model it should have
a power/economy switch
the O/D button should be off under 70 km

is the car carby or efi

It is a TP (1990, hope) and has a power / economy button, but the ecomony side if the transmission must have burnt out, it doesn't work, whatever the reason.
Hoppy

Do you have an overdrive button at all? Is it engaged?
Yes and No
Hoppy

info

the
overdrive is an easy fix and the gearbox stays in

just needs a kit

Define "easy fix", my limited knowledge said the bands / clutches were RS, major job?
Hoppy

overdrive overhaul

kit ordering part
atp kik-170075 km177/F4a-23 year 1987 on .overdrive/end clutch .car repair kit
the kit you can purchase through an auto transmission shop

you know when it is not working or broken when you engage overdrive and the engine just revs and you think the car is in neutral


do it your self
for the people who want to take a look themselves
remember in which order the clutch parts come out in and which way they face
take off the drivers side tyre
On the gearbox on the left side is a plate you get to
the plate has 10 mm head bolts
undo that plate and you will see the end clutch
if a lot of auto oil comes out when you remove the cover then you need a clutch plate kit which has seals included
the new friction plates have to be soaked in auto fluid for 2 hours before fitting !


the inner drive drum must line up with all the friction disks and be flush before putting back
this take patience and fiddleing

the end clutch assembly just pulls off easily towards you
then you can inspect it
if the friction plates are worn out these are easy to replace yourself

seals are harder to fit and also if the end clutch itself is damaged or have a broken thrust washer you need to take the clutch to an automatic repairer for fixing or replacement
you need the serial number on your automatic box

to replace the friction plates

soak them in new auto oil for 2 hours before refitting

all you have to do is look for the small snap ring at the beguining of the overdive drum
unclip that (it has no real pressure it is just a retainer a screwdriver will do to pluck it out )
remember the order of each plate as you remove them (very important )
ok dont stuff this order up this is the order as you pull it apart
snap ring, a thick clutch reaction plate,a clutch disk ,a clutch plate, for four times so the last plate out is a metal one not one with material on it ...

also the 2 types of plates are different and be patient lining up the inner drum before you install
look out for burrs on the inner drum if there is a burr that inner drum wont go togeather
you may give the groves a light file to remove any burrs